Sani Pass

January 9th to 11th 2024

Sally was given a Christmas present to go up Sani Pass with a bird guide.

Sally arranged with Stuart McLean to go up the pass on January 10th. The price included up to two other persons – myself and a good friend Judy Zingel.

For those of you who are not aware of Sani Pass – it is a treacherous drive on an extremely rocky road to Lesotho. It has numerous hair-pin bends which get narrower and tighter as you ascend. A 4×4 is imperative to make the 8 Kms trip safely.

And a view up the Pass:

We planned to meet Stuart at 05h30. So, rather drive there from Howick, we decided to camp at the bottom at Sani Lodge Backpaackers and meet him there. We took our Afrispoor Wildcat (Off-road Caravan) and Judy a tent.

The night before they had a drenching and more rain seemed likely. So, Judy put her tent up beneath our awning and we were able to enclose it by putting up sides to the awning.

Judy’s Tent under our awning and me sagging under the weight of water!!

Later on that afternoon we took a drive to Himeville Nature Reserve. Very disappointing. Totally run down. We did see a few birds there.

We had hoped to see the hoards of Lesser Kestrels coming in to roost. Nothing appeared. We later learned that they had not been seen in Himeville for a number of years. No-one really knows why.

The next morning, we were up bright and early, prepared our food and drink for the day and ready for Stuart at 05h30.

Comfortably sat in Stuart’s Fortuner 4×4, we headed for the Border Post and then drove to the top. We took an hour and a half birding up those 8 kms – stopping here and there to admire the birds, scenery and flora and one other fauna – several Mountain Reedbuck. Weather started overcast and drizzly and as the day went on, it got cold. However, it brightened up and we had glorious sunshine halfway through the day.

At the border.

Sally and Judy
Paul , Sally and Stuart enjoying something to eat and drink.

Here are some photos of the scenery up and down Sani Pass.

A video of a ride up the Sani Pass, showing how rough it can be.

Here are some of the flora and fauna photoed on the ride up and down.

At the top, we went through the Border Post into Lesotho. Immediately, the driving became easier and comfortable. The Chinese build road was wide and well asphalted. Here are some photos of the scenery in Lesotho.

Before we set off into the hinterland of Lesotho, we visited the highest Pub in Southern Africa – Sani Mountain Lodge at 2874 metres above sea level. Stuart told us that this is apparently no longer the highest in Africa. However, it is spectacularly set overlooking the Sani Pass.

The verandah with its fabulous view down the Pass.

At the Pub we had drizzly views of some special species – Sentinel Rock Thrush, Drakensberg Ciskin and a Sloggett’s Ice Rat.

On the way back we found an obliging male Drakensberg Siskin to photograph.

As we drove onto the tar, a pair of Large-billed Larks were seen in the bushes beside the road.

And in the open area ab bit further along, a juvenile Sentinel Rock Thrush and Sickle-winged Chats.

Further along we came across Grey Tits – a lifer for me.

Then we stopped for very friendly Ground Woodpeckers. A Cape Bunting and a Drakensberg Prinia also presented themselves for a photo.

All the time we were on the lookout for the Drakensberg Rockjumper. More Sentinel Rock Thrushes appeared, a colourful lizard and a pair of Karoo Scrub-Robins.

Then we reached an open flat land next to the river where the Chinese had their base. At this location there were a number of Mountain Wheatears – males and females, Sentinel Rock Thrushes and Black-headed Canaries – the adults are striking looking birds.

How cold it got – as shown in this picture below.

During our time there we came across the Drakensberg Rockjumper on a number of occasions – particularly on our way back to the Lesotho border.

It was a long day but extremely enjoyable. The birds were exciting to see in their natural habitat. But there was more to come.

Stuart lives in Himeville. His home is a bird sanctuary. Stuart invited us to come round at 18h00 to see a special bird that habituates his garden and appears every evening to enjoy a bath and devour some mealie worms.

On arrival, the drizzle began again. However, we sat quietly on Stuart’s verandah with eyes peeled on a particular spot in his garden less than 10 metres away. Sure enough, the bird appeared on schedule. Setting my camera on 40000 ISO, I managed a few shots before the darkness engulfed us.

What a treat.

The next morning we got up early and explored a road which Stuart mentioned to us. A wetland area and a location for cranes. Not to be disappointed we saw scores of Grey-crowned Cranes as well as a few Blue Cranes. The cranes were set far away from us so sadly no photos.

At the wetland area we spotted several Yellow Bishops and Long-tailed Widowbirds. There was also a raptor seen at a distance. It was a Harrier which appeared to have a pale head though it was hard to be sure.

Altogether we identified 89 differnent bird species. Click on the link to see our list.

Hope you enjoyed the read and photos.

Paul and Sally Bartho