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Our Independence Day Anniversary
July 4th 2024
On our 15th Independence Day anniversary, Sally treated us to a few days in the Drakensberg at Cathedral Peak Hotel. Neither of us had been there before so it was a special treat for both of us.
Some of the scenery as we approached the hotel, showing the Drakensberg mountains.
And views from Cathedral Peaks hotel.
As you can see from the photos, the weather was gloriously sunny. However, when we set out on our morning walk the wind was blowing strongly and being well cocooned was imperative. As on all walks in the Berg, it is stupid if you don’t take a backpack of provisions like water, chocolate for energy and more warm clothes. It was also useful later in the day when it warmed up – somewhere to put all those warm clothes you started out with.
We set out at 09h00 heading to Blue Pools – top right of map above. And eventually got back at about 14h00. Here are some photos of the scenery on our walk.
Birds and animals were few and far between. Not surprising at this altitude and the habitat dry and in many parts burnt.
The following photos show pictures of the birds and animals lower down – around the hotel and on the way to and from the hotel.
Cathedral Peaks Hotel is an all-inclusive resort. The hotel rooms were well sized and decorated. The dining area large with help-yourself food everywhere – smorgasbord style. An island for breakfast staples like cereals etc, deserts at lunch and dinner, breads etc. Another location for coffees and teas. Yet another for cooked dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Another cooking location for trout and yet another for Stir Fry of your choice.
Then between main meals there was a between meals tea, coffee and cakes station outside the dining area.
The bar area was cosy with a fire and comfortable seating.
The range of activities was extensive. Catering not only for walkers with trail guides but also activities for children of all ages.
We enjoyed the location and social interaction.
Would we go back? Yes, but as pensioners, only on a special occasion.
Birding was best on our journey to the hotel and around the grounds. In all we recorded 45 different bird species in 2 locations: Cathedral Peaks and a Wetland near Winterton.. You can see our list by downloading the following link.
Cheers
Paul and Sally Bartho
Zululand
12th to 18th July 2024
A week’s break in Zululand was called for – missing nature. We timed it so that we could go to Zamanga on Saturday 13th July which was opened for members of the bird club to see their huge array of Aloes.
We booked 4 nights at Mkuze from the 12th to 16th and a further 3 nights in St. Lucia on the way home.
We always enjoy the Mkuze campsite as it is never full. There is always a shady spot to find, and the ground is flat. The ablutions are passable – just need to chase up about hot water at times. Power is erratic too. Sometimes it is available 5am to 8am and again at 5pm to 10pm – depends on reminding them to run the generator.
The Park has 2 entrances. One on the east (Opansi Gate) and another on the west side (Mshopi Gate).
The campsite is at the entrance on the west of the park at the Mshopi Gate entrance. Other accommodation is at Mantumo – almost halfway between the two gates. Other accommodation includes Chalets, Huts and a Fixed Tents with your own ablutions and cooking facilities.
The campsite always has loads of birds. Calls to wake you up in the morning. There are also some special species and on occasion you get a bird party close-by in the scrub next to your camp.
Now this was mid-winter yet the car did not agree.
34C mid-winter – unbelievably hot. I wonder what summer temperature has in store for us.
So, we spent time driving around (with aircon on to keep cool) and stopping at the various hides. Nsumo Pan was full and windy so there was not much to see there. But a lone Lesser Flamingo was seen on the far side. An African Fish-Eagle flew over with its catch. A White-breasted Cormorant checked out the lesser Flamingo and a Goliath Heron and a Great Egret glided past.
Elsewhere on our drives around the Game Reserve we saw a number of inteeresting birds.
There are two hides where we spend a lot of time. They are very active with both aminals and birds at various times of the day. The two hides are kuMasinga and Malibala. The latter is closest to the campsite. Ku Masinga is quite central and is south of the Mantumo main camp.
We have found that the birds are most active at kuMasinga hide around midday. Aminals appear at any time when they are thirsty.
As you enter the hide, looking left, there is a small tree/bush- leaning right – close to the water’s edge. This is the secure waiting spot for the birds (especially the small ones) before they chance a drink at the water’s edge. They congregate at the water’s edge together for safety.
And then there is the Malibala Hide. We enjoyed this hide often as it is the closest to the campsite. Midday and late afternoons were the best for both birds and aminals.
Then one morning we had the unfortunate sighting of a Nightjar which had been run over during the night.
That summarises our experiences in Mkuze Game Reserve during our stay. However, one morning we visited Zamanga Gardens – some 6kms north beyond the turnoff to Mkuze Town on the M2.
Zamanga Gardens
Saturday 13th July 2024
Such an impressive display of Aloes. The garden is huge approximately 6 hectares I would guess. There was also a large variety of Sunbirds in their different stages of plumage amongst the aloes. And because of this, positive identification of the Sunbirds was a big challenge.
Here is a video trying to show you the extent of the gardens. Clusters of aloes are everywhere.
And here is a slideshow of the aloes.
Birds making an appearance among the aloes were in constant motion, moving quickly between one flower and the next. Various Sunbirds and a Thick-billed Weaver shown here. Photos of the Neergaard’s Sunbird male were too poor to show.
In total we identified 106 different bird species in Mkuze and Zamanga Gardens. Click on the link following to see our list.
Then we were off to St. Lucia.
St. Lucia
16th to 19th July 2024
On our way back to Howick and home, we stopped off in St. Lucia for 3 nights. Camping at Sugarloaf in St. Lucia.
Birdlife in the camp is always good. It is a pleasure to wake up and hear such a variety of bird calls. The challenge is to ID the calls. Animals are spotted too, Banded Mongooses and Small Buck in particular.
Since the Rhino Card is no longer accepted to enter Isimangaliso Wetlands, it is more expensive to enter on a daily basis. Cheaper to stay at Cape Vidal campsite if you intend to stay 3 nights or more as you only pay entry fees once. The advantage of camping at Sugarloaf in St. Lucia is that you are very central with much quicker access to the estuary, Western Shores of Isimangoliso and the Gwala Gwala trail.
At the estuary there were a large number of Swift Terns (Greater Crested Terns now) but they were the only Terns present. Among them there were a few Kelp Gulls and six African Oystercatchers.
On the way to the roost, we had some interesting sightings. The first of which was a lone Cape Cormorant.
Looking out to sea we observed a pair of Cape Gannets flying past. An adult below the juvenile.
Along the shoreline we spotted a Little Egret, White-fronted Plovers, and among an area along the estuary showing a reedy edge, there were Curlew Sandpipers and a Malachite Kingfisher with an erratically unique hairstyle.
Then we had another aerial display from a Western Osprey.
On the way back to the campsite we came across some unusually large bird tracks. Maybe you can ID the bird?
The Isimangoliso Wetland was truly waterlogged. Free standing water was everywhere you went. For this time of the year – July – we had never seen Park like this. Indeed, even in the rainy season we have not seen it so. This made for some good close-by sightings in both the Western and Eastern Shores sections of the Isimangoliso Wetland Park.
We happened to visit the Western Shores on a rainy overcast day. Birding as you might expect was quiet. However, we had some nice sightings: White-backed Ducks, a Martial Eagle on a nest and a curious Eastern Nicator that not only was a few metres away but was not inclined to fly off.
A very short clip of Buffaloes enjoying a swim. Click on the photo.
Lake Bengazi was full to the brim. We stopped at one of the pull over stops on the causeway and Sally took this video to show how full it was. Normally when we have visited, the water was a good 100 metres away from where Sally was standing.
Then there was the Eastern Shores and the road close to the Amazibu hide. Again, water beside the road everywhere we went. Amazibu hide was our first destination. We went to see the Rufous-bellied Herons which have been showing well for a long time now.
However, on the way there we stopped overlooking a wetland area beside the road – loads of Spoonbills together feeding with the typical sweeping action of their bill. There was also a Squacco Heron and a Great Egret present. A Reed Cormorant was watching carefully from its perch.
And then we got to the Amazibu Hide and a Rufous-bellied Heron appeared just as we were about to leave.
A short distance further along from the hide was another stretch of water beside the road. In fact on both sides of the road. However, it was the wetland on our right that blew us away with the number and variety of waterbirds present. There were Blue-billed and Red-billed Teals, African Jacanas, White-backed Ducks, many Pygmy Geese – never seen them in such numbers in Isimangoliso before.
And then another Rufous-bellied Heron popped up right next to us beside the road, followed by another a little further along.
Of course, there were other birds about, but these are the special ones we recorded on film.
Although we did not record a lot of different species of birds, this was not unexpected as the weather was poor and the time of year was not in our favour. What we did see were a number of special species.
In all we identified 85 different bird species. You can download our list below to see what we saw.
Paul and Sally Bartho
Kruger top to bottom – Part 3
Lower Sabie
14th to 18th April 2024
And so we left Satara on an overcast and slightly dribbly day. We headed for Tshokwane and then directly to Lower Sabie.
We love seeing herds of elephants but are nervous when they appear in the middle of the road while we are towing our Wildcat. As is usually the case they then appear behind as well – coming towards you. Reversing is not an option.
Camp was set up in a convenient spot.
We had a pair of White-browed Robin-Chats (Heuglin’s) chorus us each morning always from the same spot in the bush.
Other camp visitors.
One day we took a drive on the back roads around the Mlondozi Picnic site, all the way to Tshokwane and down to Skukuza. The weather continued to be wet and overcast. Days like that sometimes bring out the unusual – like a family of Shelley’s Francolins.
On another day we headed for Skukuza and the hide at Lake Panic. We took the two detours along the H1-4 Lower Sabie to Skukuza .
A Baboon sat on the road using his guile and jaw strength to rip into a sausage pod from a Sausage tree. Persistence pays off obviously. Watch.
The birdlife was very quiet at the Lake Panic hide.
However, Sunset Dam did not disappoint. Apart from the antics of the hippos and the length of the crocodiles, birdlife was abundant.
A Yellow-billed Stork showed how it uses its wings to move around quickly chasing dinner in the water.
Surprisingly, we saw several pairs of White-crowned Lapwings in Sunset Dam as well as near the main bridge crossing lower Sabie. In the past we had only ever seen them in the north of the Park around Pafuri.
On one of the back roads, we noticed a Secretarybird way ahead of us. As I was about to take a photo, a car came over the hill and it took off towards us fortunately.
We did come across several Lion sightings – a mating pair in one instance and a pride lying across the road with the usual traffic jam. We also saw briefly our only Cheetah and took a video of a Hyena walking by.
Raptors
Several Brown Snake-Eagles, Martial Eagle
And here are some of the other species we managed to capture.
And finally, a Lappet-faced Vulture.
Our last camp was Berg-en-dal for 3 nights.
Berg-en-dal
18th to 21st April 2024
After driving around the camp for ages looking for a spot, we eventually settled on a site we had first seen. And we enjoyed the privacy and outlook.
We ventured around the area but also took a long day out to Pretoriuskop – taking the H2-2 from Afsaal to Pretoriuskop. Then back along the S1-1 and H3, visiting dams and other features along the way.
Typical scenery.
A natural rubbing post for Warthogs and Rhinos usually.
Along the way we had some lovely birds too. A pair of African Hawk-Eagles, a Gabar Goshawk, a Black-winged Kite high above and a Martial Eagle were the raptors which stood out. Of course there was an unidentified raptor photographed as well. An ear-torn Hyena walked up to us and a pair of Vervet Monkeys were nervous of life above in Pretoriuskop. Even a Hooded Vulture made an appearance.
Then there was a sighting of Yellow-billed Oxpeckers on a Giraffe. There range has extended well.
We even found some Rhinos – our first for the trip!
Around the camp we were also treated to some fine species.
And eventually it was time to return home.
And this was the scene as we passed Barberton. The Tebushina were flowering.
Click on the following link to see a list of the birds we identified on our trip. In all different bird species.
Hope you enjoyed the read and photos.
Paul and Sally Bartho
Kruger top to bottom – Part 2
Tsendze
10th to 11th April 2024
We only had one night here – all booked out. So, we got here early from Shingwedzi to give us time in the afternoon to have a look around. We set up quickly without putting up our awning.
On the way down to Tsendze, we notice many Openbills together in the river.
On our first sortie into the area, we headed to the Mooiplaas Waterhole and saw a few interesting bird species on the open ground nearby.
However, as we continued towards the wetland area, the road was taped off. Why? No rain so it must be passable. Perhaps they were grading the road, we thought. Annoyed, we returned to camp.
Back at camp we heard talk of an elephant seen just after the Mooiplaas Waterhole on the S49. The story intrigued us and as a result and our time in Tsendze focused there. Time well spent.
We went back and the taped off road was now open. We continued. Our first indication that we were getting close:
Then there were the animals and Marabu Storks blocking the road.:
Eventually we arrived and realised what all the fuss was about and the stories were sadly confirmed.
The next morning we returned and all the vultures and storks were in the bushes and none around the carcass. We understood why as we got close. His majesty was waiting to fill his fill further.
And that amounted to our time spent in Tsendze.
Next Satara and our explosive time there for 3 nights.
Satara
11th to 14th April 2024
Having set up camp, we took a run along the S100 to Gudzani Dam. This was the third time we were disappointed with little to see – both game and birds.
We did visit the Sweni Hide briefly. It was not very active until the elephants showed up and entertained us with their water antics – especially the young ones trying to show who was boss among each other.
The next day we headed north along the H1-4 to the turnoff towards Balule camp on the S147. One of our newly favourite roads.
And then turned west and backtracked along the Timbavati loop – S39. We stopped at Ratel Dam Hide. The area in front of the hide had very little water. We had a few sightings with the standout being a juvenile Black Stork.
There was also a large black crocodile present on the sandbank.
On another day we chose to take the H7 to Orpen Gate and then back along the Talamati Bush Camp road (S140) turning onto the S36 to the Muzandzeni Picnic site. From there taking the S126 to the H1-3 tar road back to camp.
Breakfast at Orpen Gate.
We stopped at the Muzandzeni Picnic ground for a T&P but in order to enter we had to skirt round an inquisitive elephant – which we were told had also entered to do its business. The picnic ground had some active birds – a sleepy African Scops Owl, a radiant Burchell’s Starling, a pair of Bennett’s Woodpeckers – tantalising us with their knocking in the branches above us.
The S126 from Muzandzeni to the main road proved to be rewarding for us. We not only saw a Leopard – admittedly quite fleetingly – but also many Sandgrouse and Red and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers – primarily on Zebras and some on Giraffe. Red-crested Korhaans called close to the road, and we had sightings of a Marico Flycatcher, a Lappet-faced Vulture, Tawny Eagle to name a few.
Every morning the Southern Ground Hornbills were calling close by. It was only on our last day at Satara that we saw them – close to the camp entrance. They were right beside the road.
And to hear them call:
Almost forgot. Our Explosive experience.
In camp Sally was making tea. I was elsewhere. Walking back to our Wildcat, I could see many people chatting to Sally. Unusual I thought.
Sally told me that she had heard what sounded like a gun shot and suddenly everyone nearby came to her rescue. She was perplexed. And then realised that she had actually caused the commotion when she turned on the hot water tap. The explosion had occurred because there was gas build up in the closed compartment where the gas water heater was stored. And by opening the hot water tap a spark was created – boom. The closed compartment door was blown open with a loud bang. Fortunately the damage was not excessive. But it taught us a lesson to always turn off the gas supply when the compartment door is closed and preferably remove the batteries from the igniter switch as well !
Almost forgot. Jackals in camp. People reported that the Jackals were eating guy ropes. Well we had a slightly different experience. My clogs had gone for a walkabout. Later to be found, the clogs intact but both straps had been removed and chewed into almost precisely one inch pieces and left around the each clog.
Then we moved on to Lower Sabie for 4 nights. See Part 3.
Paul and Sally Bartho
Kruger top to bottom – Part 1
3rd to 21st April 2024
Sally and I decided to get away before winter started. Our destination – the Kruger National Park. However, unlike our usual Kruger visits, we went in at the top of the Park and exited at the bottom.
We headed for the Pafuri entrance gate via a stopover along the way. 1080 Kms in one day was not an option for us so we overnighted at Waterberg Resort near Bela Bela. Our thinking was that it was close to the N1 and we could get onto the N1 first thing in the morning and be on our way early. Not so. We followed our map but the road we took went over the freeway and we wasted almost an hour backtracking to where we got off the freeway the previous day. Oh well.
Waterberg Resort
4th April 2024
The Resort was empty – sadly for the owners as it was a public holiday.
Once the Wildcat was set up, we took a walk around the Resort into the game area. The rains had been poor so there were not many creatures to see. There was an unusual Black Impala in the grounds next door.
Nthakeni Bush and River Camp
5th to 7th April 2024
Whenever we are visiting the north of the Kruger, we always choose to camp at Nthakeni Bush and River Camp. The hospitality of Kobus and Annalise is special and the campsite, in our opinion, is one of the best we have stayed at AND it is close to the Pafuri area in the Kruger.
We used this campsite as our base to head into the north of the Kruger Park – in particular to explore the Pafuri area. As you can see from the following photos, the area was very dry. Being April, most migrants had already gone and birding was quiet. Having said that we did find one or two special species (for us anyway).
Dryness:
Birds photographed:
Then there was this bird seen close to the turn-off to the Pafuri Picnic sight:
Yes, a Coucal. Senegal. Special special. Confirmed by Trevor Hardaker.
Shingwedzi
7th to 10th April 2024
We had three nights in Shingwedzi. Mostly overcast. We explored north to Babalala, east along the S50, south down the H1-6 and taking the S142 Shongololo loop to Mopani and also the Redrocks loops.
Like everywhere else the ground was dry, yet the grass seemed greener as we headed south.
We had booked our trip at the last minute so we had little choice of where to stay and for how long. Fortunately we managed to get 3 nights in Shingwedzi but they only had fenceline sites available – not unhappy about that as we found a pleasant site.
Being on the fenceline was entertaining at times. On one occasion a huge herd of Impala came roaring passed very close by. And of course, the camp birds and animals visited our site – forever hopeful.
The S56 Mphongolo loop was very quiet but Ribye waterhole was full of active Hippos and kept us amused watching their behaviour.
A herd of Buffalo were also seen marching along the dry river bed.
Some raptors and owls photographed while in the area.
Some other animals;
Then of course, the birds
And then we were on to Tsendze for one night – it was all we could get.
Kruger Top to Bottom Part 2 follows.
Paul and Sally Bartho
Mascarene Martin
Mount Moreland 14th June 2024
A single Mascarene Martin was spotted near Mount Moreland earlier this week (June 10th 2024). Only the second time it has been reported in South Africa. It is a bird which comes from Madagascar to the coastal area of Mozambique in the winter.
Anyway, Sally and I decided on Thursday lunchtime to see if it was still around. We got there around 15h15 and joined the crowd patiently awaiting and hopeful for an appearance.
We planned to stay over in Durban and get a better chance to see it in the morning.
Much to our surprise it suddenly appeared on the line close to us at 16h30 among all the Brown-throated Martins. Great sighting as it hung around for about 40 minutes – on the line just above us.
Took loads of photos into the sun. Should have the sun behind us in the morning so we planned to go back.
Despite no news of it being present this morning, we returned ever hopeful of some better photos of the bird with the sun behind us.
There was a large crowd present. most had been there since first light. We waited. And waited eventually leaving at 10h00. Most of the crowd had already left to get to work.
Sadly it was a no show for everyone. Hey, that’s birding.
Here are some of the pics I managed to get of the bird – but one is not what it seems. Which is it and what is it? It is among the Mascarene Martins which have not been labelled. Click on the birds for a better view.
Paul and Sally Bartho – King
Sani Pass
January 9th to 11th 2024
Sally was given a Christmas present to go up Sani Pass with a bird guide.
Sally arranged with Stuart McLean to go up the pass on January 10th. The price included up to two other persons – myself and a good friend Judy Zingel.
For those of you who are not aware of Sani Pass – it is a treacherous drive on an extremely rocky road to Lesotho. It has numerous hair-pin bends which get narrower and tighter as you ascend. A 4×4 is imperative to make the 8 Kms trip safely.
And a view up the Pass:
We planned to meet Stuart at 05h30. So, rather drive there from Howick, we decided to camp at the bottom at Sani Lodge Backpaackers and meet him there. We took our Afrispoor Wildcat (Off-road Caravan) and Judy a tent.
The night before they had a drenching and more rain seemed likely. So, Judy put her tent up beneath our awning and we were able to enclose it by putting up sides to the awning.
Later on that afternoon we took a drive to Himeville Nature Reserve. Very disappointing. Totally run down. We did see a few birds there.
We had hoped to see the hoards of Lesser Kestrels coming in to roost. Nothing appeared. We later learned that they had not been seen in Himeville for a number of years. No-one really knows why.
The next morning, we were up bright and early, prepared our food and drink for the day and ready for Stuart at 05h30.
Comfortably sat in Stuart’s Fortuner 4×4, we headed for the Border Post and then drove to the top. We took an hour and a half birding up those 8 kms – stopping here and there to admire the birds, scenery and flora and one other fauna – several Mountain Reedbuck. Weather started overcast and drizzly and as the day went on, it got cold. However, it brightened up and we had glorious sunshine halfway through the day.
At the border.
Here are some photos of the scenery up and down Sani Pass.
Here are some of the flora and fauna photoed on the ride up and down.
At the top, we went through the Border Post into Lesotho. Immediately, the driving became easier and comfortable. The Chinese build road was wide and well asphalted. Here are some photos of the scenery in Lesotho.
Before we set off into the hinterland of Lesotho, we visited the highest Pub in Southern Africa – Sani Mountain Lodge at 2874 metres above sea level. Stuart told us that this is apparently no longer the highest in Africa. However, it is spectacularly set overlooking the Sani Pass.
At the Pub we had drizzly views of some special species – Sentinel Rock Thrush, Drakensberg Ciskin and a Sloggett’s Ice Rat.
On the way back we found an obliging male Drakensberg Siskin to photograph.
As we drove onto the tar, a pair of Large-billed Larks were seen in the bushes beside the road.
And in the open area ab bit further along, a juvenile Sentinel Rock Thrush and Sickle-winged Chats.
Further along we came across Grey Tits – a lifer for me.
Then we stopped for very friendly Ground Woodpeckers. A Cape Bunting and a Drakensberg Prinia also presented themselves for a photo.
All the time we were on the lookout for the Drakensberg Rockjumper. More Sentinel Rock Thrushes appeared, a colourful lizard and a pair of Karoo Scrub-Robins.
Then we reached an open flat land next to the river where the Chinese had their base. At this location there were a number of Mountain Wheatears – males and females, Sentinel Rock Thrushes and Black-headed Canaries – the adults are striking looking birds.
How cold it got – as shown in this picture below.
During our time there we came across the Drakensberg Rockjumper on a number of occasions – particularly on our way back to the Lesotho border.
It was a long day but extremely enjoyable. The birds were exciting to see in their natural habitat. But there was more to come.
Stuart lives in Himeville. His home is a bird sanctuary. Stuart invited us to come round at 18h00 to see a special bird that habituates his garden and appears every evening to enjoy a bath and devour some mealie worms.
On arrival, the drizzle began again. However, we sat quietly on Stuart’s verandah with eyes peeled on a particular spot in his garden less than 10 metres away. Sure enough, the bird appeared on schedule. Setting my camera on 40000 ISO, I managed a few shots before the darkness engulfed us.
What a treat.
The next morning we got up early and explored a road which Stuart mentioned to us. A wetland area and a location for cranes. Not to be disappointed we saw scores of Grey-crowned Cranes as well as a few Blue Cranes. The cranes were set far away from us so sadly no photos.
At the wetland area we spotted several Yellow Bishops and Long-tailed Widowbirds. There was also a raptor seen at a distance. It was a Harrier which appeared to have a pale head though it was hard to be sure.
Altogether we identified 89 differnent bird species. Click on the link to see our list.
Hope you enjoyed the read and photos.
Paul and Sally Bartho
Zimbabwe to see the African Pitta.
10th to 17th December 2023
In November 2022, we planned to treat ourselves to find an African Pitta. It was Sally’s milestone birthday present as well as our Christmas and Birthday presents to each other in 2023.
So, in 2022 we booked 5th to 9th December 2023 with Derek Adams of Victoria Falls Birding Safaris. During the course of the year this got changed to 12th (Tuesday) to 16th (Saturday) December 2023 at the request of Derek Adams.
An Aside – take note if you are interested in going on this trip.
Make sure you secure your accommodation before you go. There are only 3 acceptable rooms ( I believe they are numbered 1,2and 3) available at Murara. Each of a good standard and I believe they can each accommodate 3 persons. They have their own ablutions. If you are told there is another place available which they call the Doll’s House or Honeymoon Suite – DO NOT accept it as you will be bitterly disappointed.
Back to our story.
We found direct flights from Durban to Harare and booked. Since these flights were only on a Sunday we needed to organise somewhere to stay in Harare for 2 nights until we got picked up and a further night on our return to Harare. Adam suggested Guinea Fowl Rest. We booked.
And as we had a full day on the Monday before pickup, we organised a day’s birding with Sean Hind and he took us to Haka Park and Christon Bank.
And so it began.
We were picked up at the airport and taken to Guinea Fowl Rest. A very comfortable and friendly B&B. The food was plentiful and delicious.
And we were entertained by a Purple-crested Turaco behaving oddly.
And here are a few of the resident birds.
The next morning at 05h30 we were picked up by Sean and headed for Haka Park. The wetland area had suffered from the drought. As a result, the wetlands had shrunk considerably.
Here are some of the birds we photoed.
Then we found the Yellow-mantled Widowbird – a bird we had seen previously but not in breeding plumage.
Then we were off to Christon Bank. Not much time was spent at Christon Bank as it was very hot and there was much scrambling amongst the rocks.
At the rocks we heard a number of bird calls. It seemed that two different species were trying to outdo each other – Brown-crowned Tchagra and a White-browed Scrub-Robin.
Walking round the rocks, we looked to see if we could find a Boulder Chat. We eventually saw several.
The next morning we were collected early. There were 2 vehicles to take Sally and I plus 6 others to Murara Camp near Masoka Village – expecting to arrive at 13h00.
After 3 hours we arrived at the changeover point. Two game vehicles arrived and emptied their previous guests and luggage and we took their place to go to the camp. Our drivers took the previous guests back to Harare.
Seen at the exchange point.
After an hour’s drive we stopped in a riverbed where 6 Ground Hornbills were seen disappearing round a corner of the dry riverbed. Our guides suggested a pit stop and then got us to all sit together on one side of the riverbed.
Be Quiet and Sit Still, we were told. Siraaj, one of our guides proceeded to put a Bluetooth speaker at the top on the other side and proceeded to call the African Pitta. Lo and behold, it responded and then a couple of them started to show themselves. Not at the camp yet, and we had already achieved our goal. This was our best sighting of an African Pitta. We had at least half an hour with the birds.
Another 3 hours and we arrived at Murara Camp.
On arrival everyone got allotted rooms. Ours was the “Doll’s House” also known as the “Honeymoon Suite”. Immediately we should have had questions about this, but we thought because we booked so early we were being treated to the best accommodation. In fact, it was terrible. However, we thought it must be the same for everyone. Not SO. The accommodation for everyone else was far superior and clean which we only found out later when Sally went to check.
If you ever venture here paying its extortionate price, make sure you know which accommodation you will be allocated. We complained and were offered a discount on further trips with Adam as he accepted it was sub-standard – but he would not give us a cash refund of any sort. Many excuses but basically he ripped us off. We had booked well early and paid full price when we booked.
We had no choice to stay in the crappy room with broken furniture and filthy bathroom as well as animal droppings inside. There was nowhere else to go.
On our first night we drove to a pan where the Pennant-winged Nightjars like to visit. On arrival the Red-billed Queleas in their hundreds were in force in the bushes hanging over the water.
All lined up we waited. At dusk they arrived. Swirling all over the water and our heads. A magnificent sight.
For the next 3 days, our routine was to be up and out by 05h30 each morning returning for lunch about 12h30. Rest until 15h00 and then out again till 18h00. Back to freshen up and do a bird list with everyone before dinner at 19h00.
We visited many different areas depending on what we hoped to find – usually specials which people wanted to see. Most of these places involved an hour’s drive to get there – birding along the way.
During our stay, the weather threatened to rain. Clouds accumulated and we got a bit of drizzle on the first day but it never lasted long, After that – no rain – just overcast weather making photography for me very difficult.
Here are some photos of the typical habitats we enjoyed.
We saw quite a few different raptors, including: Bateleur, Lizard Buzzard, African Fish-Eagle, African Hawk-Eagle, Brown Snake-Eagle, Martial Eagle, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Western-banded Snake-Eagle, African Goshawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, African Harrier-Hawk, Black-shouldered Kite, Shikra and Little Sparrowhawk.
Here are photos of some of the other specials we saw.
Arnot’s Chat.
African Golden Oriole seen on several occasions.
Abdim’s Stork.
Dusky Lark
Flappet Lark
Brown-necked Parrot seen flying and in nearby trees.
Jacobin Cuckoos
Livingstone’s Flycatcher constantly on the move. Seen in several places.
Lillian’s Lovebirds
Meyer’s Parrot seen alongside Brown-necked Parrots.
Mottled Spinetails
Orange-winged Pytilia seen in camp.
Racket-tailed Roller
Senegal Coucal seen on several occasions.
Hadeda Ibis – why is this special you ask. Well check the eye colour. Typical of Hadedas seen in the area.
Here are some of the other birds we photographed.
We left on a sour note with Derek Adams as he refused to compensate us for the disgusting accommodation he put us in.
To see our bird list for Harare and Murara please click on the following link.
Paul and Sally Bartho
Zululand
November 4th to 11th
Sally and I had not been away for nearly 2 months. Zululand beckoned. Our plan was to go to away for a week spending 4 nights in Mkuze and 3 nights in Bonamanzi. From Bonamanzi we planned to visit Hluhluwe Reserve.
At the time the area had had loads of rain so everywhere was lush and there was plenty standing (sitting?) water.
Mkuze
4th to 8th November 2023
To our surprise as we approached the gate, we noticed that there was flowing water either side of the road – something we had not seen in the 20 years of visiting the Reserve.
Camp was quickly set up and we relaxed for a while before going out for an afternoon drive.
No sooner had we left camp than we realised how much rain the Reserve must have had.
The animals and birds were scarce – compared to other times we had been there. most likely because there was water everywhere and they did not need to come to the main watering holes.
At the kuMasinga Hide there were hundreds of Barn Swallows – if not thousands. And not much else except for a couple of frogs lounging in the hide.
As usual there were many Impala and Nyala about, several small herds of Zebra and Gnus – and basically little else. The naughty elephant (we call him Mr. Grumpy) was not to be seen. However, there was a large group of Giraffe on the road to the main camp.
Coming around one corner we observed a stampede of White Rhinos. All orphans apparently. We were later told they had just been released into the reserve. Interesting to see them all together. we did see one other large male.
The Wahlberg’s Eagle nest was occupied with a youngster with parents visiting with food.
Close to the Wahlberg’s Eagle nest we noticed a Southern Masked Weaver starting to build a nest. Re-visiting the area a little later (couple of hours) it had virtually completed the nest.
Then there was the Red-billed Oxpecker family. The youngsters appeared to be coming out of their nest for the first time and the parents were fussing over them.
We took a detour outside the Ophansi Gate to look at the fig forest and the Mkuze River. The ground was not as wet as we expected but the river was well full – muddy full.
In the distance down the fence line of the Reserve, we spotted the best sighting of our stay. A special raptor.
Here are other birds that we managed to photograph.
In all we identified 125 different bird species in Mkuze.
After 4 nights in Mkuze we headed for Bonamanzi.
Bonamanzi
8th to 11th November 2023
Bonamanzi was like everywhere else, soaked. The roads were fine in the main areas but we were unable to get down into the wetland area.
There were very few campers. I think we were one of two! We chose campsite 10 with its own bathroom.
Having set up camp, we enjoyed a drive around the game areas – where we could get access that is.
We spent a day driving around Bonamanzi and another in Hluhluwe Reserve. Both days were overcast and wet. In camp we had several Crowned Hornbills, Brown Scrub-Robins, a Cardinal Woodpecker, Diderick Cuckoos and a Dung Beetle rolling its ball.
We visited the Hide at the main reception area but it was very quiet except for a White-throated Swallow and an African Pied Wagtail.
Here are some of the other waterbirds we took pictures of at various ponds, wetland areas etc:
We did see an animal:
Getting around – greeny style:
Hluhluwe
Having exited the security entrance gate, there was water on the grass either side of us and there on one side were a dozen Glossy Ibis.
Our day in Hluhluwe continued to be gloomy and wet. After a few hours there we decided to return to Bonamanzi. The rivers were full and some roads impassable.
We were excited to see Elephants at the Hilltop entrance and a lone Buffalo wallowing.
Birding was very quiet.
It was lovely to get away and experience nature.
In all we atlassed 96 different bird species in Bonamanzi and 73 in Hluhluwe.
So, as we exited the gate on our way home, we had not even got to the end of the drive when we were in for another treat. On the road in front of us were Canaries. A mixture of Yellow-fronted and Lemon-breasted. Special as they did not fly off.
Cheers
Paul and Sally Bartho (King)
Northern South Africa – Part 3
Kruger National Park
29th August to 9th September 2023
This part of our trip took us to wherever we could find camping accommodation. It started in Punda Maria for 2 nights, 3 nights in Shingwedzi, 2 nights in Letaba, a night in Satara and finally 3 nights in Malelane.
So, from Dumela in Mozambique we took the S63 to the H1-8 and headed to Punda Maria. On the way we passed the “Big Hill” near Pafuri.
We turned off the main road south onto the tar (H13-1) to Punda. Within a few kilometres there was a large mud puddle on the left. And stuck in it was an unfortunate rather dead buffalo. Several White-backed Vultures were trying to have a feast without much success.
At Pafuri we chose a campsite at the top – our favourite spot close to a clean and non-smelly ablutions. Our choice was very limited because of the position of the electric points. Nowadays it is wise to take an extra long cable as the electric points are few and far between and each point only has 4 plugs.
In our time there we visited Klopperfontein – the busiest place in the short time at Punda. On the way there we noticed that the countryside had many colourful trees.
On our way to Punda on the (H1-8), we decided it was prudent not to take the Klopperfontein shortcut (S61) to Punda since we were towing and the road is known as a good place to see elephants. The Dam was empty of elephants but it had good birdlife. There were both Black-headed and Grey Heron, an Egyptian Duck, Pied Kingfishers, Pied Wagtails, a Three-banded Plover, an African Fish-eagle and a Knob-billed Duck.
Here are some of the other animals, birds we saw on our ride around the loop.
In the camp the Monkeys are always present. Sometimes naughty and sometimes fun to watch. Here is a head-twisting video to watch.
And then we were off to Shingwedzi, having recorded 79 different bird species in and around Punda Maria.
Shingwedzi
31 August to 3rd September 2023
The east side of the road to Shingwedzi (H1-7) had recently been set on fire and areas were still smoldering. In the distance we saw what looked like tornados and small cloud formations on the horizon in an otherwise cloudless sky. It was only as we drew closer that the “clouds” were actually smoke formations.
At Shingwedzi our campsite (18) was an “on the fence” site. The only ones available. Normally we would not have chosen a fenced site but as it happened this site was fairly shady and not too close to neighbours – also relatively close to an electric point.
The river on the left driving into the camp had only a few patches of water – one of the few areas close by with water. Water was scarce as we drove the Shongalolo Loop (R52), up the R56 to Babalala Picnic site and down river (S50) to the Nyawutsi Hide.
River on way to Nyawutsi Hide – very dry.
Similarly very dry on the R56 to Babalala Picnic site.
The river along the Shongololo loop was similarly dry.
We had White-backed Vultures in the bush beside us trying their best to guzzle on a corpse – perhaps a dead Hippo.
Then there were 2 Buffalos having a tussle in the riverbed to the camp and one with yellow-billed Oxpeckers on its back.
Crocodiles amassed together in whatever water they could find.
At the Nyawutsi Hide, a leguaan made an appearance showing its grappling claws as well as numerous Buntings – Golden-breasted and Cape, a Black-winged Stilt and a Hamerkop.
In the camp there were many colourful birds and an occasional creature.
Some beautiful birds we saw round and about.
Then there were some of the aminals;
Raptors: Not many seen and only one photoed.
And on the Shongololo Loop we had 2 treats. A large male Kudu with an extra twist in its horns and a Lioness. Our first big cat.
And to cap off our time in Shingwedzi I love this Hippo photo taken along the R56 to Babalala.
The days flew quickly and it was time to go but not before the Moon had its piece to say.
In total we recorded 97 different bird species in the 2 full days there. Eventually it was time to head south to Letaba.
Letaba
3rd to 5th September 2023
So, no sooner than we headed south on the H1-6 than we had large animals with several young racing across the road in front of us.
Surprise – Roan Antelope;
As we approached Letaba we noticed that the river had more water in it than those further north.
In the evening we watched a Wahlberg’s Eagle catching bats from the vantage of the bridge.
And in the morning we looked up river and what did we see?
On arrival we looked around for a suitable campsite close to an electric point. In the end we got lucky as someone was moving out of a shady site close to the entrance with a close by power point.
We had a stroll around the camp and enjoyed the view of the river, the camp elephant and sadly the cut down stumps of a tree which my niece and nephew used to climb.
On our walk round the camp we had several bird encounters.
A video of our friendly Crested Barbet.
Raptors seemed more plentiful than further north.
And then there were other species on our drives around the area – birds and animals.
Then we had some time with a small pack of Wild Dogs. A chance sighting of these athletic light- footed creatures.
Surprisingly we recorded 79 different bird species in the short time we were there.
From Letaba we wanted to get to Malelane. A very long drive. We popped in to Satara on the off chance of a night or two on the way down. One night was all we could get.
Satara
5th to 6th of September 2023
On arrival we quickly set up camp and spent the afternoon and part of the early morning of the next day driving the S100 and H7 south of the camp. Not a lot to see game wise, however we did identify 51 bird species in the short time there.
On a walk around the camp, we headed to the reception area hoping to pick up some interesting birds. However, seeing an African Scops Owl immediately in front of the restaurant was a bit of a surprise. A pleasant surprise.
We did come across Wahlberg’s Eagles. A brown morph and another not so brown with a grey /whitish head.
Here are some of the other bird species we managed to photograph.
Some special species amongst those above – the Lemon-breasted canary being the main one. In all we identified 51 bird species in and around Satara.
The next day we were on our way to Malelane – a long drive.
Malelane
6th to 9th September 2023.
On the way to Malelane we did stop at several places – Tshokwane for breakfast, Leeupan to check what birds were there, On the bridge over the Sabi River on the way passed Skukuza, Afsaal as a loo stop. All in all, it took us almost 8 hours to get to Malelane Private Camp.
Tshokwane was cold and void of birds. Leeupan had water but the weather limited what birds were about.
The Sabi River was low. Here are pics taken on the bridge looking up and down river.
Afsaal was crowded with many game viewing vehicles – expected as the park was full full.
Then we arrived at Malelane Private Camp close to the Malelane gate. And were able to get probably our favourite spot at the bottom of the camp. We have yet to try the sites on the right on entry which we understand are also level.
Berg-en-dal camp is always worth a visit. Its birdlife is excellent and we were not disappointed this time despite the dam being almost empty.
The dam was where the action was for us. A Hamerkop flew over. Brown-headed Parrots landed above us. A Green-backed Heron was seen in the mud then up on the dam wall being chased off by a Grey-headed Heron before taking a hiding place opposite waiting for dinner to arrive. Then beside us in a tree we noticed a pair of Little Sparrowhawks – one a juvenile calling for food. And as we were about to leave, we heard an African Barred Owlet calling to the right of the dam. After searching for a while we finally spotted it and watched it continue calling.
The S114 to S25 then onto the S119 and S118 before returning along the tarred road – H3 – is a loop we often take. Here are some of the birds we encountered along the way:
And some of the aminals seen on the circuit:
The Gardenia Hide is on the S119. This hide can be birding dull or full of life. This time we visited there were raptors in the trees and flying overhead – severely testing our skills at identifying them.
Ahh….. yes, the hilarious incident of the Pearl-spotted Owlet and the Grey-headed Bushshrike.
As we drove along the S114 we stopped at a tree with many birds calling like crazy – Starlings and Fork-tailed Drongos. We looked for a possible snake but saw none. Eventually they flew off. As we moved off too, I noticed that one small dark bird was left behind. Just in case, we had a better look and realised that it was this bird causing all the tumult – a Pearl-spotted Owlet.
Next thing we knew another bird came flying in calling like mad and went straight for the Pearl-spotted Owlet. The Owlet as calm as you like, turned its head away from the Grey-headed Bushshrike and totally ignored it. The Bushshrike continued its ministrations getting ever closer to no avail. Hilarious to watch.
In all, 72 different bird species were identified in the Malelane area and a total of 232 species for our whole 4 week trip. You can download our trip list here.
And so ended our trip. It was great to get away in the winter months.
Hope you have enjoyed the read.
Paul and Sally Bartho (King).
Birds are our Story 