Kruger November 2021 Part 3


24th, 25th, 26th, and 27th November 2021

From Balule we went to Skukuza for 4 nights, meeting up with my sister.

On the way there was a dam by the road with some water in it. On the mud bank we noticed Knob-billed Ducks displaying a variety of colours.

Skukuza was nowhere near as full as it was the last time we stayed. That was during Covid restrictions when 50% occupancy was ignored and we struggled to find a campsite. This time we had little problem finding a level site.

We spent our days going to Lower Sabie and Sunset Dam, going to Pretoriaskop, having a wet day picnic at the Mlondozi lookout, visiting Mpondo Dam where we were attacked by Terrapins!!!

. We had hoped to see the renovated Nlandanyethi Hide, however the road to it was closed – roadworks.

We went to Lower Sabie to sit in the Mugg and Bean restaurant and enjoy the view over the river. Not much happening as the river was full and it was overcast. We noticed the burnt out wreck of their Petrol Station – rather sad.

Sad Sight

Sunset Dam is always a great place to stop. There were the usual crocodiles and hippos aplenty. Waterbirds were easily visible too, even African Jacanas, Common Sandpipers and Black-winged Stilts coming right up to the car. And a crocodile oblivious of us lying on the grass beside us.

On another wetter day we drove northside of the Sabie river to the Mlondozi lookout. Birding was quiet but the view at the lookout is always special.

The Sabie river was flowing well and everywhere was green.

On the road north of the Sabie River we were fortunate to see some Lions resting on a bank.

Elsewhere we bumped into a pack of Wild Dogs. Resting restlessly under trees by the road.

We visited Pretoriuskop in the drizzling rain. We chose to go via the S1 towards Albasini Ruins and then turn off south along the S3 just before reaching the Ruins. One or two patches of the road were a bit slippery. Despite the rain birds were about. A pair of Woodland Kingfishers were heard and seen playing their mating game.

At Pretoriuskop the rain subsided and we took the chance to walk around the camp. Birding in the camp is often rewarding.

During our 4 days in the area we saw many bird species. Here are some of those photographed.

One day as we drove out of Skukuza heading south, we had not gone far when we came across Hyenas including youngsters by the road. Usually they sit around but this lot were different.

Then this happened. A game of catch me if you can.

So Innocent.

And then we went to Berg-en-dal for one night which turned into 3 nights – staying there until my sister planned to leave.


28th, 29th and 30th November 2021

Tasha and Dick arrived a day before us. The campsite was overflowing. It was an Honorary Rangers get together that weekend. When we arrived the next day the place was relatively empty and my sister had found us a site right on the fence – where an elephant liked to visit. With other game popping by including a tame Bushbuck which walked up to our front door.

We were camped right next to a couple of Honorary Rangers who kept telling about these wonderful bird sightings in the camp. In particular a Greater Spotted Cuckoo (among many other cuckoos) as well as an Eurasian Hobby. Neither of which we had seen on this trip and which over the coming days we searched far and wide for them.

We were so nicely settled that we decided to stay an extra day then another extra day as we were enjoying both the birding and animal sightings!!

The first afternoon a water pipe burst and the camp was without water for long periods over the following 2 days. We managed. As it had happened next to our ablution bloc it got closed!

One evening on the way to the wash-up area a snake was sighted – a thin 1 metre long culprit – which we all eventually agreed was pretty harmless (or so we hoped). Also a stick insect appeared on a wall at the entrance to the loos.

Of course we spent many hours wandering around the camp. At the main reception area overlooking the dam, there was a ruffle over our heads and a Little Sparrowhawk was seen flying away. But it did not go far. it have food in its claws but not eating. Looking around a juvenile was spotted. We were able to watch as the juvenile screeched away and the parent gave it food.

In the trees above Tasha and Dick’s campsite a lovely pair of birds were courting – not Lovebirds but very colourful. Female and male Red-headed Weavers.

A sort of leucitic Kurrichane Thrush was hopping round our campsite – an odd looking bird.

Kurrichane Thrush

Another very special bird seen in camp. Retz’s Helmetshrike.

Lions and Leopards were seen as well as White Rhinos, Elephants and Buffalos. A good but busy part of the park to see many of the “Big Five” in one day.

Probably one of our favourite sightings in the Kruger was this Chamelion crossing the road in its unique way – “one foot forward, shake it too and fro in a jerky motion then put it down” Repeat this with each leg until you are eventually across. One eye looking up the other looking all around etc. (Tap on photo to enlarge it).

We focused our drives around the Berg-en-dal and Gardenia Hide areas. At times quiet and as you might expect sometimes busy. Quite a number of large birds were seen including a few Eagles – some of which we are still unsure of their ID. Here are some of their pictures.

Other birds in and around these areas:

We get up early on our last day determined to find the Great Spotted Cuckoo and maybe the Hobby. We listened for calls where we were told they had been present – at the meeting of the S100 from Malelane and the main road north H4-2 to Skukuza. We give up after a while – no calls at all. So we head to look and see if there is anything interesting along the road to the S25. We cross the bridge and turn right towards Croc Bridge. The light is terrible for seeing silhouetted birds. I think I see a Falcon so we retreat to the main road to get a better look. It is the Great Spotted Cuckoo with the Eurasian Hobby close by. We were both happy and could not believe our luck.

And that was the end of our time in the Kruger. In all we had identified 243 different bird species. To see our list download the following:

On the way out we crossed the Malelane Bridge over the Crocodile River making our last Atlas additions.

Lastly to say that on the way out we were escorted. Watch this video.

Hope you have enjoyed the read and photos

Sally and Paul Bartho

Kruger November 2021 Part 2

Nthakeni Bush and River Camp

14th and 15th November 2021

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is campsite-3.jpg
Our campsite overlooks the river and is much like the Pafuri picnic site. Special place.

We arrived at Nthakeni around midday and settled in.

That afternoon we spent time in and around Pafuri and for most of the next morning.

Each night we heard three different Nightjars, the Fiery-necked, the Square-tailed and the Freckled as well as the Wood Owl. This is a special place for us.

Midday and early afternoon was usually spent in the pool to cool down and in late afternoon a bird walk around the camp.

Here are some of the species we managed to get photos of in the Pafuri area mainly.

As we drove towards the Pafuri picnic site on one occasion we spotted what we thought was a shiny flapping something wrapped round a tree trunk. A better look revealed that it was a very long shedded snake skin right round the trunk and back.

Snake Skin

Two birds stood out for us. In the Pafuri picnic site there was a nesting pair of Black-throated Wattle-eyes and three kilometers from the Pafuri Bridge heading north we saw a Racket-tailed Roller – definitely our bird for the trip.

From Nthakeni we went to Punda Maria for a few days with my sister and her husband.

Punda Maria

16th and 17th November 2021

Sally and I had booked to stay at Punda Maria for one day only so that we could go to Shingwedzi at the same time as my sister. However we ended up for 2 nights and persuaded my sister to stay an extra night – sacrificing a night at Shingwedzi. We had all booked Shingwedzi for 4 nights so it meant only 3 nights in Shingwedzi.

We were camped on the fence line for a change within close proximity to the Hide and good views of the waterhole from our camp spot as well.

At night the waterhole always had herds of Elephants – a ghostly bunch creeping silently in and out. Their massive size emphasized by the moonless night.

At night we heard the calls of Nightjars, Square-tailed and Freckled as well as the trumpeting of the elephants around the waterhole.

In the afternoons it was very hot so we ended up in the green waters of the swimming pool to cool off.

On one evening in the hide we watched as Buffalo arrived to drink (later they retreated when the Ellies arrived). Anyway as we sat there in the hide we watched an unusual sight of a Buffalo lying with its back in the water. It was straining to give birth. Eventually the calf popped out in its sack into the water and the Buffalo walked away. We assume the Buffalo knew it was a still birth.

We circled the Mahoney loop and went out to Klopperfontein. After the first couple of early hours in the mornings the birds became quiet and scarce because of the heat.

It was unusual to see two impalas at the top of a well bushy and tall ant hill.

And then we headed to Shingwedzi.


18th, 19th and 20th November 2021

Shingwedzi campsite was far from full so we had a lot of choice as to where we camped and because we had booked a fence line campsite that is where we headed. The heat had followed us! But where was the shade? Eventually we made a decision which we regretted later.

Our Campsites on the fence.

Empty campsite and empty river.

During our time in the area we explored the Red Rocks Loops, drove up to Babalala picnic site on the S56 and went down river along the S50 as far as Nyawutsi Hide. Each of these routes have had their attractions in the past – weather dependent. November 2021 the heat was almost exhausting so whenever possible we resuscitated in the swimming pool.

On our way down to the Nyawutsi hide following the river there were patches of water in the river. The hide is situated in a tropical setting.

Here are some of the birds we photoed along these routes.

A very colourful female Bennett’s Woodpecker gave us a show of her beauty

A Dwarf Mongoose popped out of an ant hill and gave us the stare.

Then there were the Lions resting in the long grass as they do most of the day.

A few animals too.

The Spotted Hyena had chased away a Jackal in the river. Fortunately I was able to get a few photos as it ran away from us down the river. The photos confirmed our suspicions that this was no ordinary Jackal.

Eventually the heat broke and we had a storm. Not any storm but a drenching. Not just a drenching but a nightmare driving into it on slippery road surfaces. Sally and I took a mid afternoon drive along the S50 and on the way we noticed dark clouds off to the side of us and we thought moving away. We were wrong. It came straight for us as we decided to return to camp. Heavy rain. Full on straight towards us.

Pelting Rain

By the time we got back to camp the rain had stopped. Alas our campsite was under water – well a couple of inches – and it was not draining away. Trench digging was the order of the moment up hill to the fence. The further I went the deeper it got. It needed a lot of help to drain away. So out came the broom, pushing the water into the trench. As quickly as the water reached the trench so half of it returned. Good exercise and a few necessary kilos lost.

Bye bye Shingwedzi

That was our time in Shingwedzi. Now to Balule as T&D went to Letaba, 4 nights in each.


21st, 22nd, 23rd November 2021

All four of us left together. Tasha and Dick in the car ahead heading for Letaba and we to Balule. We had not gone too far when we saw Lions charge Tasha’s car – her side. Later Tasha told us she had a huge fright as it felt that they would come in the window. We all screeched to a halt. Four lionesses ran across the road followed closely in their footsteps by four cubs. Quite a sight for us and relief for my sister.

Then 10 minutes later we came across an elephant way ahead of us drinking water from the side of the road. He was thirsty. We wanted to keep going. However when you are towing it is nigh impossible to reverse at any speed if the ellie wants to be obstreperous- we waited for about 15 minutes before he went off into the bush.

After a quick cup of tea we left Tasha and Dick in Letaba. On we went. One annoying thing with checking in to the Balule camp is that you do so at Olifants camp. In this instance we became pleased that we had to. We had turned off the main road heading on the tar to Olifants. We had not gone far when a Leopard popped out of the undergrowth ahead of us, walked down the road before re-entering the bush. Excitement number one.

We checked in. And took the opportunity to have a look at the view of the surrounding panorama from the deck – with the river some way down and directly below us.

Now we trundled our way to Balule. After about a couple of kms our second excitement – a pair of white-tailed Wild Dogs climbed up onto the road and strolled towards us.

With rain threatening we hurriedly set up camp.

Most days it rained. Sometimes quite hard for short periods with wind that made it uncomfortable for cooking – up came the awning sides.

Despite the weather we rose early and out we went. On one occasion a very long trip to Satara via the Timbavati loop road as far as Ratel Pan and Timbavati Picnic site then across to the H1-4 on the S147. Down to Satara and along the S100 before returning. A long day out but not without its incidents.

Taking the S99 and S97 to the Timbavati Loop and despite the drizzle and promising looking rain clouds we passed several good looking birds of which the African Green Pigeon was outstandingly colourful.

At one point along the S99 there is an unusual fever tree growing sideways across a stream with branches shooting up vertically.

Most of the drive to Ratel Pan was in constant drizzle. But that did not put off the birds – we had lovely sightings of many wet species and some totally drenched – the Brown-throated Martin in particular and a Barn Swallow not quite so. Others seen include: a Black Heron fishing, Greater Painted Snipes, Black-crowned Night-Heron and even a Steppe Eagle.

Steppe Eagle

The Brown-throated Martin deserves a collage of its own.

As the day progressed the weather improved. By the time we got to Ratel Pan it had stopped drizzling but it remained cloudy. The Pan had water for a change. There were a number of waterbirds present, the odd crocodile and leguaan.

There were a some slippery waterlogged spots on the S125 gravel road to the H1-4. However when we reached the main road it was chained off. We were in a pickled if the other exits to main roads had been chained off too. What to do? In the end, with time constraints, we followed the car in front and drove round the barrier.

Here are some of the other photos taken in the area.

We saw a number of Lilac-breasted Rollers courting. Here is one offering its sweetheart a delicious morsel.

As you will see the water level at the low level bridge beside Balule was quite full. Baboons use it while the ellies prefer walking through the river.

Then we moved on to Skukuza to meet up with my sister.

The adventure continues in Part 3 to follow.

Paul Bartho and Sally King

Kruger November 2021 Part 1

Number 1 Bird of the trip. A South African rarity.

Sally and I were planning a trip to the Caprivi in November when my sister, Natasha and her husband Dick took advantage of the half price offer for the full November month in the Kruger. As a result we changed our minds and decided to join them from November 7th onwards.

Malelane 7th November 2021

We began with an overnight stop at Malelane – a good resting spot after a nine hour drive from Howick.

We enjoyed a short drive around the area later in the day. Even managed to see a fully maned Lion.

A young Hyena entertained us and a Rhino had lost its horn. There were birds too posing for a shoot out.

As you may have noticed from the picture above, we had not put up our awning. We were only there for one night. So of course it rained that night. Half expecting this we put everything outside that we did not want to get wet into the boot of the car.

As I lay in bed the dribbles of rain started and my mind wandered to what else I had forgotten to do. Ah yes, I need to put the rain cover over the canvas roof over our bed. Up I got and managed to do that without getting too wet. Back to bed.

Almost asleep when it occurred to me that I should push the fridge and stove inside. Up I got again and went outside with the rain a lot stronger and did what I had to do. Back to bed fell asleep the rain now pouring down.

What was that poking me on the shoulder? Now alert and Sally asked me if I had put the rain cover on the power cable where the 2 cables met. Of course I had forgotten that too. Now it was pouring down. Not bothering to get properly clad (no neighbours) I hurriedly went outside once again and simply pulled the plug out from the Cheetah. Now fully drenched and a bit shivery, had a good rub-down and dried off and went to bed. Listening to the rain, thunder and lightening beating down and wondering what else I needed to do, I eventually fell asleep.

But not before I realised I had been bitten on the back of my neck by a bug which caused an intense burning pain. (Took over a week for it to abate). I nudged Sally to say I had been bitten. “Oh”, she said and went back to sleep. The next morning she realised how bad it was.

Satara 8th to 10th November 2021

The following morning we went to Satara to meet up with Natasha and Dick.

Natasha and Dick

We spent 2 nights in Satara as that was all we were able to book at the time.

Natasha and Dick had a camp site along the fence line so we dined with them each night, watching the Hyena patrolling just outside the fence and an African Wildcat patrolling passed us inside the fence as we enjoyed dinner and a bottle of wine.

During the day we went our separate ways to explore what was out there.

The Sweni bird hide is one of our favourite places to visit around Satara. Again it did not disappoint us. There were a number of interesting birds to see. The hide outlook:

At the far end of the first photo above, a herd of elephants came down for a drink. Some young ones among them. As usual they were boisterous and enjoying quenching their thirst. Trouble was afoot. We noticed that a number of the pools hippos were unhappy with their presence and surprisingly advanced to within less than 2 metres with intent. To start with the ellies ignored them then feeling a bit nervous they moved off.

And the birds seen at the hide:

A Yellow-billed Stork was idly wandering about in front of the hide while an African Openbill had found a cosy spot to rest:

African Openbill posing as if it was nesting and then along came trouble and usurped him of the resting place:

Usurper and Usurped.

In another location we came across a male African Jacana attending its chicks.

Photos taken around the Satara area:

And a Little Egret with its catch:

From Satara, Sally and I left a day earlier than Dick and Tasha and headed to Tsendze for 4 nights. Dick and Tasha joined us a day later for 3 nights.

Tsendze 10th to 14th November 2021

Tsendze is one of our favourite camps in the Kruger. It is well treed so owls are present and can be heard calling every night – Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl with its pretty pink eyelids, African Wood-Owl, African Scops Owl, African Barred Owlet and Pearl-spotted Owlet. In the morning you often wake to the sound of Southern Ground Hornbills. Magic place.

There was an interesting campervan in one of the closest sites to the gate – even had its own vehicle attached to it.

Way to Go

Mooiplaas Picnic site is right next to Tsendze and overlooks the Tsendze river. It has a big boma for shelter from both the sun and rain as well as a picnic spot overlooking the river. Like Tsendze it is also known for its owls. Unlike Tsendze camp it is not fenced.

On your way from the camp to Mopani there are a number of short loops to explore. In the past I have experienced a herd of elephant running across one of the tracks right in front of us. Sally and I have also seen a rather large and lame Civet.

Anyway at the end of the last loop you can turn towards a couple of hides. One overlooking Pioneer Dam and the other an overnight hide overlooking the Tsendze river. To get there, you cross a low level bridge. There always seems to be bird activity either side of the bridge. Black Crakes have always been seen there by us. Striated Herons, Hamerkop, Blacksmith Lapwings, Water Thick-knees and other waterbirds are often there too. This time I took several photos of Blacksmith Lapwing juveniles scurrying close by.

Blacksmith Lapwing chick

One of the loops we enjoy doing is to access the S49 from the H1-6 just before reaching Mopani, drive to Mooiplaas waterhole and cut across to the S50, head north following the wetlands then turn onto the S143 – Tropic of Capricorn – past the Tihongonyeni waterhole and back to the H1-6 to return back to camp.

At the Mooiplaas we always see Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks. This time was no execption.

Along the S50 it is worth popping into the viewing points overlooking the wetlands. There, Lions tend to hang around the waterholes.

There was a surprise for us at the Tihongonyeni waterhole along the Tropic of Capricorn S143. There were several Tsessebees including a new born at the waterhole. An animal we don’t often seen in the park and usually as a loner among Red Hartebeest.

Along the way we came across Red-crested Korhaans calling beside the road and we were lucky to spot a Lesser Grey Shrike.

The weather was hot hot so we spent several afternoons in the pool at Mopani.

And then there was this large scaly-backed lizard wandering between the bungalows.

Scaly-backed Lizard about 50cm long.

The H1-4 to Phalaborwa gate is a scenic drive and one where we have seen hyena with cubs regularly especially along the first 20 kms from the H1-6. This time was no exception.

Further down there is a low level bridge crossing the Letaba River. It crosses a wide stretch of the river and has a “stop and view” parking area half way across. The last two times we visited we have seen two male Greater Painted Snipes and this time was no different.

A bit further along there are a couple of short loop roads going down to the river. On one of these loops we sighted a Groundscraper Thrush singing away.

Groundscraper Thrush

We headed on towards the H9. About 6kms before the H9 we came across a large Kopje on our left. It was here that we observed a Southern Ground Hornbill nesting site. There were several on the ground and a couple few out of the nest.

And then we were on our way to visit Sable Dam just the other side of the H9. Relatively quiet except for a herd of what looks like sock-wearing elephants.

A couple of these elephants had a bit of a tussle.

Also seen there was a blue-tongued leguaan, a blue-headed lizard, a crocodile and a Three-banded Plover chick.

And around and about on our way down towards Phalaborwa we took a few snaps of other birds we saw.

And a Village Indigobird.

Tasha and Dick left for Punda Maria and Sally and I headed to Nthakeni – just outside the Pafuri gate.

Our time in the northern region of the Kruger follows in Part 2.

Sally and Paul