Mascarene Martin

Mount Moreland 14th June 2024

A single Mascarene Martin was spotted near Mount Moreland earlier this week (June 10th 2024). Only the second time it has been reported in South Africa. It is a bird which comes from Madagascar to the coastal area of Mozambique in the winter.

Anyway, Sally and I decided on Thursday lunchtime to see if it was still around. We got there around 15h15 and joined the crowd patiently awaiting and hopeful for an appearance.

We planned to stay over in Durban and get a better chance to see it in the morning.

Much to our surprise it suddenly appeared on the line close to us at 16h30 among all the Brown-throated Martins. Great sighting as it hung around for about 40 minutes – on the line just above us.

Took loads of photos into the sun. Should have the sun behind us in the morning so we planned to go back.

Despite no news of it being present this morning, we returned ever hopeful of some better photos of the bird with the sun behind us.

There was a large crowd present. most had been there since first light. We waited. And waited eventually leaving at 10h00. Most of the crowd had already left to get to work.

Sadly it was a no show for everyone. Hey, that’s birding.

Here are some of the pics I managed to get of the bird – but one is not what it seems. Which is it and what is it? It is among the Mascarene Martins which have not been labelled. Click on the birds for a better view.

Paul and Sally Bartho – King

Sani Pass

January 9th to 11th 2024

Sally was given a Christmas present to go up Sani Pass with a bird guide.

Sally arranged with Stuart McLean to go up the pass on January 10th. The price included up to two other persons – myself and a good friend Judy Zingel.

For those of you who are not aware of Sani Pass – it is a treacherous drive on an extremely rocky road to Lesotho. It has numerous hair-pin bends which get narrower and tighter as you ascend. A 4×4 is imperative to make the 8 Kms trip safely.

And a view up the Pass:

We planned to meet Stuart at 05h30. So, rather drive there from Howick, we decided to camp at the bottom at Sani Lodge Backpaackers and meet him there. We took our Afrispoor Wildcat (Off-road Caravan) and Judy a tent.

The night before they had a drenching and more rain seemed likely. So, Judy put her tent up beneath our awning and we were able to enclose it by putting up sides to the awning.

Judy’s Tent under our awning and me sagging under the weight of water!!

Later on that afternoon we took a drive to Himeville Nature Reserve. Very disappointing. Totally run down. We did see a few birds there.

We had hoped to see the hoards of Lesser Kestrels coming in to roost. Nothing appeared. We later learned that they had not been seen in Himeville for a number of years. No-one really knows why.

The next morning, we were up bright and early, prepared our food and drink for the day and ready for Stuart at 05h30.

Comfortably sat in Stuart’s Fortuner 4×4, we headed for the Border Post and then drove to the top. We took an hour and a half birding up those 8 kms – stopping here and there to admire the birds, scenery and flora and one other fauna – several Mountain Reedbuck. Weather started overcast and drizzly and as the day went on, it got cold. However, it brightened up and we had glorious sunshine halfway through the day.

At the border.

Sally and Judy
Paul , Sally and Stuart enjoying something to eat and drink.

Here are some photos of the scenery up and down Sani Pass.

A video of a ride up the Sani Pass, showing how rough it can be.

Here are some of the flora and fauna photoed on the ride up and down.

At the top, we went through the Border Post into Lesotho. Immediately, the driving became easier and comfortable. The Chinese build road was wide and well asphalted. Here are some photos of the scenery in Lesotho.

Before we set off into the hinterland of Lesotho, we visited the highest Pub in Southern Africa – Sani Mountain Lodge at 2874 metres above sea level. Stuart told us that this is apparently no longer the highest in Africa. However, it is spectacularly set overlooking the Sani Pass.

The verandah with its fabulous view down the Pass.

At the Pub we had drizzly views of some special species – Sentinel Rock Thrush, Drakensberg Ciskin and a Sloggett’s Ice Rat.

On the way back we found an obliging male Drakensberg Siskin to photograph.

As we drove onto the tar, a pair of Large-billed Larks were seen in the bushes beside the road.

And in the open area ab bit further along, a juvenile Sentinel Rock Thrush and Sickle-winged Chats.

Further along we came across Grey Tits – a lifer for me.

Then we stopped for very friendly Ground Woodpeckers. A Cape Bunting and a Drakensberg Prinia also presented themselves for a photo.

All the time we were on the lookout for the Drakensberg Rockjumper. More Sentinel Rock Thrushes appeared, a colourful lizard and a pair of Karoo Scrub-Robins.

Then we reached an open flat land next to the river where the Chinese had their base. At this location there were a number of Mountain Wheatears – males and females, Sentinel Rock Thrushes and Black-headed Canaries – the adults are striking looking birds.

How cold it got – as shown in this picture below.

During our time there we came across the Drakensberg Rockjumper on a number of occasions – particularly on our way back to the Lesotho border.

It was a long day but extremely enjoyable. The birds were exciting to see in their natural habitat. But there was more to come.

Stuart lives in Himeville. His home is a bird sanctuary. Stuart invited us to come round at 18h00 to see a special bird that habituates his garden and appears every evening to enjoy a bath and devour some mealie worms.

On arrival, the drizzle began again. However, we sat quietly on Stuart’s verandah with eyes peeled on a particular spot in his garden less than 10 metres away. Sure enough, the bird appeared on schedule. Setting my camera on 40000 ISO, I managed a few shots before the darkness engulfed us.

What a treat.

The next morning we got up early and explored a road which Stuart mentioned to us. A wetland area and a location for cranes. Not to be disappointed we saw scores of Grey-crowned Cranes as well as a few Blue Cranes. The cranes were set far away from us so sadly no photos.

At the wetland area we spotted several Yellow Bishops and Long-tailed Widowbirds. There was also a raptor seen at a distance. It was a Harrier which appeared to have a pale head though it was hard to be sure.

Altogether we identified 89 differnent bird species. Click on the link to see our list.

Hope you enjoyed the read and photos.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Zimbabwe to see the African Pitta.

10th to 17th December 2023

In November 2022, we planned to treat ourselves to find an African Pitta. It was Sally’s milestone birthday present as well as our Christmas and Birthday presents to each other in 2023.

So, in 2022 we booked 5th to 9th December 2023 with Derek Adams of Victoria Falls Birding Safaris. During the course of the year this got changed to 12th (Tuesday) to 16th (Saturday) December 2023 at the request of Derek Adams.

An Aside – take note if you are interested in going on this trip.

Make sure you secure your accommodation before you go. There are only 3 acceptable rooms ( I believe they are numbered 1,2and 3) available at Murara. Each of a good standard and I believe they can each accommodate 3 persons. They have their own ablutions. If you are told there is another place available which they call the Doll’s House or Honeymoon Suite – DO NOT accept it as you will be bitterly disappointed.

Back to our story.

We found direct flights from Durban to Harare and booked. Since these flights were only on a Sunday we needed to organise somewhere to stay in Harare for 2 nights until we got picked up and a further night on our return to Harare. Adam suggested Guinea Fowl Rest. We booked.

And as we had a full day on the Monday before pickup, we organised a day’s birding with Sean Hind and he took us to Haka Park and Christon Bank.

And so it began.

Arriving in Harare.

We were picked up at the airport and taken to Guinea Fowl Rest. A very comfortable and friendly B&B. The food was plentiful and delicious.

And we were entertained by a Purple-crested Turaco behaving oddly.

Interesting behaviour of a Purple-crested Turaco.

And here are a few of the resident birds.

The next morning at 05h30 we were picked up by Sean and headed for Haka Park. The wetland area had suffered from the drought. As a result, the wetlands had shrunk considerably.

Here are some of the birds we photoed.

Then we found the Yellow-mantled Widowbird – a bird we had seen previously but not in breeding plumage.

Then we were off to Christon Bank. Not much time was spent at Christon Bank as it was very hot and there was much scrambling amongst the rocks.

At the rocks we heard a number of bird calls. It seemed that two different species were trying to outdo each other – Brown-crowned Tchagra and a White-browed Scrub-Robin.

Walking round the rocks, we looked to see if we could find a Boulder Chat. We eventually saw several.

The next morning we were collected early. There were 2 vehicles to take Sally and I plus 6 others to Murara Camp near Masoka Village – expecting to arrive at 13h00.

After 3 hours we arrived at the changeover point. Two game vehicles arrived and emptied their previous guests and luggage and we took their place to go to the camp. Our drivers took the previous guests back to Harare.

Seen at the exchange point.

After an hour’s drive we stopped in a riverbed where 6 Ground Hornbills were seen disappearing round a corner of the dry riverbed. Our guides suggested a pit stop and then got us to all sit together on one side of the riverbed.

Be Quiet and Sit Still, we were told. Siraaj, one of our guides proceeded to put a Bluetooth speaker at the top on the other side and proceeded to call the African Pitta. Lo and behold, it responded and then a couple of them started to show themselves. Not at the camp yet, and we had already achieved our goal. This was our best sighting of an African Pitta. We had at least half an hour with the birds.

Another 3 hours and we arrived at Murara Camp.

On arrival everyone got allotted rooms. Ours was the “Doll’s House” also known as the “Honeymoon Suite”. Immediately we should have had questions about this, but we thought because we booked so early we were being treated to the best accommodation. In fact, it was terrible. However, we thought it must be the same for everyone. Not SO. The accommodation for everyone else was far superior and clean which we only found out later when Sally went to check.

If you ever venture here paying its extortionate price, make sure you know which accommodation you will be allocated. We complained and were offered a discount on further trips with Adam as he accepted it was sub-standard – but he would not give us a cash refund of any sort. Many excuses but basically he ripped us off. We had booked well early and paid full price when we booked.

We had no choice to stay in the crappy room with broken furniture and filthy bathroom as well as animal droppings inside. There was nowhere else to go.

On our first night we drove to a pan where the Pennant-winged Nightjars like to visit. On arrival the Red-billed Queleas in their hundreds were in force in the bushes hanging over the water.

All lined up we waited. At dusk they arrived. Swirling all over the water and our heads. A magnificent sight.

For the next 3 days, our routine was to be up and out by 05h30 each morning returning for lunch about 12h30. Rest until 15h00 and then out again till 18h00. Back to freshen up and do a bird list with everyone before dinner at 19h00.

We visited many different areas depending on what we hoped to find – usually specials which people wanted to see. Most of these places involved an hour’s drive to get there – birding along the way.

During our stay, the weather threatened to rain. Clouds accumulated and we got a bit of drizzle on the first day but it never lasted long, After that – no rain – just overcast weather making photography for me very difficult.

Here are some photos of the typical habitats we enjoyed.

We saw quite a few different raptors, including: Bateleur, Lizard Buzzard, African Fish-Eagle, African Hawk-Eagle, Brown Snake-Eagle, Martial Eagle, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Western-banded Snake-Eagle, African Goshawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, African Harrier-Hawk, Black-shouldered Kite, Shikra and Little Sparrowhawk.

Here are photos of some of the other specials we saw.

Arnot’s Chat.

African Golden Oriole seen on several occasions.

Abdim’s Stork.

Dusky Lark

Flappet Lark

Brown-necked Parrot seen flying and in nearby trees.

Jacobin Cuckoos

Livingstone’s Flycatcher constantly on the move. Seen in several places.

Lillian’s Lovebirds

Meyer’s Parrot seen alongside Brown-necked Parrots.

Mottled Spinetails

Orange-winged Pytilia seen in camp.

Racket-tailed Roller

Senegal Coucal seen on several occasions.

Hadeda Ibis – why is this special you ask. Well check the eye colour. Typical of Hadedas seen in the area.

Here are some of the other birds we photographed.

We left on a sour note with Derek Adams as he refused to compensate us for the disgusting accommodation he put us in.

To see our bird list for Harare and Murara please click on the following link.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Zululand

November 4th to 11th

Sally and I had not been away for nearly 2 months. Zululand beckoned. Our plan was to go to away for a week spending 4 nights in Mkuze and 3 nights in Bonamanzi. From Bonamanzi we planned to visit Hluhluwe Reserve.

At the time the area had had loads of rain so everywhere was lush and there was plenty standing (sitting?) water.

Mkuze

4th to 8th November 2023

To our surprise as we approached the gate, we noticed that there was flowing water either side of the road – something we had not seen in the 20 years of visiting the Reserve.

Camp was quickly set up and we relaxed for a while before going out for an afternoon drive.

No sooner had we left camp than we realised how much rain the Reserve must have had.

The animals and birds were scarce – compared to other times we had been there. most likely because there was water everywhere and they did not need to come to the main watering holes.

At the kuMasinga Hide there were hundreds of Barn Swallows – if not thousands. And not much else except for a couple of frogs lounging in the hide.

As usual there were many Impala and Nyala about, several small herds of Zebra and Gnus – and basically little else. The naughty elephant (we call him Mr. Grumpy) was not to be seen. However, there was a large group of Giraffe on the road to the main camp.

Juvenile Giraffe

Coming around one corner we observed a stampede of White Rhinos. All orphans apparently. We were later told they had just been released into the reserve. Interesting to see them all together. we did see one other large male.

The Wahlberg’s Eagle nest was occupied with a youngster with parents visiting with food.

Close to the Wahlberg’s Eagle nest we noticed a Southern Masked Weaver starting to build a nest. Re-visiting the area a little later (couple of hours) it had virtually completed the nest.

Then there was the Red-billed Oxpecker family. The youngsters appeared to be coming out of their nest for the first time and the parents were fussing over them.

We took a detour outside the Ophansi Gate to look at the fig forest and the Mkuze River. The ground was not as wet as we expected but the river was well full – muddy full.

In the distance down the fence line of the Reserve, we spotted the best sighting of our stay. A special raptor.

Here are other birds that we managed to photograph.

In all we identified 125 different bird species in Mkuze.

After 4 nights in Mkuze we headed for Bonamanzi.

Bonamanzi

8th to 11th November 2023

Bonamanzi was like everywhere else, soaked. The roads were fine in the main areas but we were unable to get down into the wetland area.

There were very few campers. I think we were one of two! We chose campsite 10 with its own bathroom.

Having set up camp, we enjoyed a drive around the game areas – where we could get access that is.

We spent a day driving around Bonamanzi and another in Hluhluwe Reserve. Both days were overcast and wet. In camp we had several Crowned Hornbills, Brown Scrub-Robins, a Cardinal Woodpecker, Diderick Cuckoos and a Dung Beetle rolling its ball.

We visited the Hide at the main reception area but it was very quiet except for a White-throated Swallow and an African Pied Wagtail.

Here are some of the other waterbirds we took pictures of at various ponds, wetland areas etc:

We did see an animal:

Getting around – greeny style:

Hluhluwe

Having exited the security entrance gate, there was water on the grass either side of us and there on one side were a dozen Glossy Ibis.

Our day in Hluhluwe continued to be gloomy and wet. After a few hours there we decided to return to Bonamanzi. The rivers were full and some roads impassable.

We were excited to see Elephants at the Hilltop entrance and a lone Buffalo wallowing.

Birding was very quiet.

It was lovely to get away and experience nature.

In all we atlassed 96 different bird species in Bonamanzi and 73 in Hluhluwe.

So, as we exited the gate on our way home, we had not even got to the end of the drive when we were in for another treat. On the road in front of us were Canaries. A mixture of Yellow-fronted and Lemon-breasted. Special as they did not fly off.

Cheers

Paul and Sally Bartho (King)

Northern South Africa – Part 3

Kruger National Park

29th August to 9th September 2023

This part of our trip took us to wherever we could find camping accommodation. It started in Punda Maria for 2 nights, 3 nights in Shingwedzi, 2 nights in Letaba, a night in Satara and finally 3 nights in Malelane.

So, from Dumela in Mozambique we took the S63 to the H1-8 and headed to Punda Maria. On the way we passed the “Big Hill” near Pafuri.

We turned off the main road south onto the tar (H13-1) to Punda. Within a few kilometres there was a large mud puddle on the left. And stuck in it was an unfortunate rather dead buffalo. Several White-backed Vultures were trying to have a feast without much success.

At Pafuri we chose a campsite at the top – our favourite spot close to a clean and non-smelly ablutions. Our choice was very limited because of the position of the electric points. Nowadays it is wise to take an extra long cable as the electric points are few and far between and each point only has 4 plugs.

In our time there we visited Klopperfontein – the busiest place in the short time at Punda. On the way there we noticed that the countryside had many colourful trees.

On our way to Punda on the (H1-8), we decided it was prudent not to take the Klopperfontein shortcut (S61) to Punda since we were towing and the road is known as a good place to see elephants. The Dam was empty of elephants but it had good birdlife. There were both Black-headed and Grey Heron, an Egyptian Duck, Pied Kingfishers, Pied Wagtails, a Three-banded Plover, an African Fish-eagle and a Knob-billed Duck.

Here are some of the other animals, birds we saw on our ride around the loop.

In the camp the Monkeys are always present. Sometimes naughty and sometimes fun to watch. Here is a head-twisting video to watch.

And then we were off to Shingwedzi, having recorded 79 different bird species in and around Punda Maria.

Shingwedzi

31 August to 3rd September 2023

The east side of the road to Shingwedzi (H1-7) had recently been set on fire and areas were still smoldering. In the distance we saw what looked like tornados and small cloud formations on the horizon in an otherwise cloudless sky. It was only as we drew closer that the “clouds” were actually smoke formations.

At Shingwedzi our campsite (18) was an “on the fence” site. The only ones available. Normally we would not have chosen a fenced site but as it happened this site was fairly shady and not too close to neighbours – also relatively close to an electric point.

The river on the left driving into the camp had only a few patches of water – one of the few areas close by with water. Water was scarce as we drove the Shongalolo Loop (R52), up the R56 to Babalala Picnic site and down river (S50) to the Nyawutsi Hide.

River on way to Nyawutsi Hide – very dry.

Similarly very dry on the R56 to Babalala Picnic site.

The river along the Shongololo loop was similarly dry.

We had White-backed Vultures in the bush beside us trying their best to guzzle on a corpse – perhaps a dead Hippo.

Then there were 2 Buffalos having a tussle in the riverbed to the camp and one with yellow-billed Oxpeckers on its back.

Crocodiles amassed together in whatever water they could find.

At the Nyawutsi Hide, a leguaan made an appearance showing its grappling claws as well as numerous Buntings – Golden-breasted and Cape, a Black-winged Stilt and a Hamerkop.

In the camp there were many colourful birds and an occasional creature.

Some beautiful birds we saw round and about.

Then there were some of the aminals;

Raptors: Not many seen and only one photoed.

And on the Shongololo Loop we had 2 treats. A large male Kudu with an extra twist in its horns and a Lioness. Our first big cat.

And to cap off our time in Shingwedzi I love this Hippo photo taken along the R56 to Babalala.

Hippopotamus smile of contentment

The days flew quickly and it was time to go but not before the Moon had its piece to say.

As full as you can get

In total we recorded 97 different bird species in the 2 full days there. Eventually it was time to head south to Letaba.

Letaba

3rd to 5th September 2023

So, no sooner than we headed south on the H1-6 than we had large animals with several young racing across the road in front of us.

Surprise – Roan Antelope;

As we approached Letaba we noticed that the river had more water in it than those further north.

In the evening we watched a Wahlberg’s Eagle catching bats from the vantage of the bridge.

And in the morning we looked up river and what did we see?

Easier to see now that I have zoomed in.
There he is – the King of the cats. Zoomed in even more.
Letaba River

On arrival we looked around for a suitable campsite close to an electric point. In the end we got lucky as someone was moving out of a shady site close to the entrance with a close by power point.

We had a stroll around the camp and enjoyed the view of the river, the camp elephant and sadly the cut down stumps of a tree which my niece and nephew used to climb.

On our walk round the camp we had several bird encounters.

A video of our friendly Crested Barbet.

Crested Barbet.

Raptors seemed more plentiful than further north.

And then there were other species on our drives around the area – birds and animals.

Then we had some time with a small pack of Wild Dogs. A chance sighting of these athletic light- footed creatures.

Surprisingly we recorded 79 different bird species in the short time we were there.

From Letaba we wanted to get to Malelane. A very long drive. We popped in to Satara on the off chance of a night or two on the way down. One night was all we could get.

Satara

5th to 6th of September 2023

Our site at Satara.

On arrival we quickly set up camp and spent the afternoon and part of the early morning of the next day driving the S100 and H7 south of the camp. Not a lot to see game wise, however we did identify 51 bird species in the short time there.

On a walk around the camp, we headed to the reception area hoping to pick up some interesting birds. However, seeing an African Scops Owl immediately in front of the restaurant was a bit of a surprise. A pleasant surprise.

An African Scops Owl

We did come across Wahlberg’s Eagles. A brown morph and another not so brown with a grey /whitish head.

Here are some of the other bird species we managed to photograph.

Some special species amongst those above – the Lemon-breasted canary being the main one. In all we identified 51 bird species in and around Satara.

The next day we were on our way to Malelane – a long drive.

Malelane

6th to 9th September 2023.

In Bloom – very colourful

On the way to Malelane we did stop at several places – Tshokwane for breakfast, Leeupan to check what birds were there, On the bridge over the Sabi River on the way passed Skukuza, Afsaal as a loo stop. All in all, it took us almost 8 hours to get to Malelane Private Camp.

Tshokwane was cold and void of birds. Leeupan had water but the weather limited what birds were about.

Leeupan

The Sabi River was low. Here are pics taken on the bridge looking up and down river.

Afsaal was crowded with many game viewing vehicles – expected as the park was full full.

Then we arrived at Malelane Private Camp close to the Malelane gate. And were able to get probably our favourite spot at the bottom of the camp. We have yet to try the sites on the right on entry which we understand are also level.

Berg-en-dal camp is always worth a visit. Its birdlife is excellent and we were not disappointed this time despite the dam being almost empty.

Berg-en-dal dam.

The dam was where the action was for us. A Hamerkop flew over. Brown-headed Parrots landed above us. A Green-backed Heron was seen in the mud then up on the dam wall being chased off by a Grey-headed Heron before taking a hiding place opposite waiting for dinner to arrive. Then beside us in a tree we noticed a pair of Little Sparrowhawks – one a juvenile calling for food. And as we were about to leave, we heard an African Barred Owlet calling to the right of the dam. After searching for a while we finally spotted it and watched it continue calling.

The S114 to S25 then onto the S119 and S118 before returning along the tarred road – H3 – is a loop we often take. Here are some of the birds we encountered along the way:

And some of the aminals seen on the circuit:

The Gardenia Hide is on the S119. This hide can be birding dull or full of life. This time we visited there were raptors in the trees and flying overhead – severely testing our skills at identifying them.

Ahh….. yes, the hilarious incident of the Pearl-spotted Owlet and the Grey-headed Bushshrike.

As we drove along the S114 we stopped at a tree with many birds calling like crazy – Starlings and Fork-tailed Drongos. We looked for a possible snake but saw none. Eventually they flew off. As we moved off too, I noticed that one small dark bird was left behind. Just in case, we had a better look and realised that it was this bird causing all the tumult – a Pearl-spotted Owlet.

Next thing we knew another bird came flying in calling like mad and went straight for the Pearl-spotted Owlet. The Owlet as calm as you like, turned its head away from the Grey-headed Bushshrike and totally ignored it. The Bushshrike continued its ministrations getting ever closer to no avail. Hilarious to watch.

In all, 72 different bird species were identified in the Malelane area and a total of 232 species for our whole 4 week trip. You can download our trip list here.

And so ended our trip. It was great to get away in the winter months.

Hope you have enjoyed the read.

Paul and Sally Bartho (King).

Northern South Africa – Part 2

In Part 2 I will cover the time we had in Mapungubwe, Nthakeni and Pafuri as well as Dumela Camp in Mozambique.

Mapungubwe National Park

19th to 23rd August 2023

Mapungubwe NP is one of our favourite Parks. This year it was very very dry – dusty and the waterholes almost empty.

The NP is split into two areas. The campsites are in the Western section and the Chalets, Reception nestled in a picturesque rocky area in the Eastern Section.

Western Section of Mapungubwe. Mazhou camp is at the top to the west of the Tented Camp
Mazhou Campsite

The campsite has an interesting entrance “Gate”. It is self-service and designed to keep out the elephants. It is a coiled electricified wire with an insulated handle. Pulling the handle towards the fence releases it. Once the vehicle is through then reconnect.

The park is littered with dead trees lying on dusty ground. Typical dry and dusty scenery everywhere in the park shown below.

The Maloutswa Hide was a basically a mud hole. It had signs of water above the mud in one corner of the waterhole. Sadly a Gnu went into the mud to reach surface water but never made it back out again.

Maloutswa Hide Mud Bath

Meve’s Starlings and Laughing Doves were in their masses around the mud hole enjoying what little water there was. An occasional Meyer’s Parrot would fly over. Water Monitors lingered in the mud. Animals came and went. It seemed the only foolhardy were the Gnus, Zebras and Warthogs.

One day we ventured out the Western Gate and went directly opposite into the veldt. We were treated to numerous sightings of both Chestnut-backed and Grey-backed Sparrow-Larks even juveniles which confused us for a while. Here are some of their photos.

In that section we also found Sandgrouses (Burchell’s and Double-banded), White-browed Sparrow-Weavers, White-crowned Shrikes, Crowned Lapwings and Scaly-feathered Finches to name a few.

Elsewhere in the Western Section we spotted some secretive and not-so secretive species.

We also visited the Eastern Section of the Park. About 20 kms drive from East to West entrances along the Den Staat road.

We spent a day in the Eastern Section. It too was very dry and dusty. On entry we encountered Impala Lilies – always very colourful.

Then we went west on entry and had great views over the valley despite the dry and dusty conditions.

The drive to Leokwe boulder camp is always scenic, however the birds were scarce. As usual the Klipspringers and Dassies were not.

From Leokwe it was a short drive to the boardwalk at the Treetop Lookout. On the way there are many Baobabs. And we spotted a Kori Bustard.

The boardwalk was a little rickety and had been damaged at the end closest to the Limpopo River. On the walk we sighted a White-backed Vulture’s nest close by with a chick on board.

By the time we got to the Confluence it was tea-time and the picnic site was most welcome. The view towards the river is magnificent. Overhead it seemed that there was a pathway for the birds flying over the ridge. Some even chanced there luck with our crumbs.

View of one side of the picnic site overlooking the river in the distance. It is worth walking across the ridge to see the view on the other side.

From here we headed along the river to the SANDF Bunker. A pretty and testing drive at times. Every time in the past that we visited this area we have found Pels Fishing Owls in the tall trees by the bunker – not this time unfortunately.

Zebra Pan was quiet – probably the time of day when we got there. On to the lookout Point over Zhizo, more for the view over the river. We did spot several Saddle-billed Storks but not much else.

Throughout the day we had seen many pairs of African Hawk-Eagles and an ocassional Gabar Goshawk.. Here are a few photos.

We continued the circle back to reception. By now it was after midday and the birds were quiet. It was only when we reached the small dam just before reception that things got interesting. Well very interesting and unexpected.

Here are some of the birds seen there.

The Greater Painted Snipe was most unexpected and to see how friendly it was with the other species was awesome.

In total we identified 81 different bird species.

After four nights in Mapungubwe it was time to move on.

Nthakeni Bush and River Camp birding near Pafuri, KNP.

23rd to 25th August 2023

Our next destination was Nthakeni Bush and River Camp about 240 kms from Mapungubwe. The camp is located just 5 kms from the Pafuri Gate into the Kruger National Park (KNP). And it was from Nthakeni that we explored the Pafuri area of the Kruger National Park.

A short drive from the main road to the camp through pleasant scenery. And then into a well maintained camp.

What a wonderful new campsite – Croc’s Corner – we were allocated. Great private setting in the bush overlooking the river with own ablution facilities. No power but free WiFi in the lounge area and an honesty bar. The shop in the lounge was well stocked with virtually all that a camper could want. Fairly priced too.

Birding in the camp is like birding at the Pafuri Picnic site in the Kruger. How’s this for an interesting creature.

It is called a Tailless Whip Scorpion believe it or not. However, it is not a scorpion at all!! Not venomous.

The camp birds sang for us and although we did not do a lot of birding around the camp, we still managed to record 21 different bird species. Here are some that we managed to photograph.

Most of our time was spent in the Pafuri area of the Kruger where we identified 64 different bird species.

On our way to the bridge we kept an eye and ear out for the Racket-tailed Rollers without success.

At the bridge we spent some time looking out for Spinetails – no luck. There were a number of raptors about – African Fish-Eagle, Bateleur, African Harrier-Hawk and a Tawny Eagle. The Tawny Eagle was being bombed by a White-crowned Lapwing. Very few waders present – just a Wood Sandpiper. There was a Giant Kingfisher and numerous Crested Guineafowl came for a drink.

As we stood on the bridge and looked upstream, we saw and heard a huge commotion – huge crocodiles fighting and looking below us was another upside down – rather dead sadly.

Sally heard a call – Tropical Boubou and there it was crossing the road at the gate end of the bridge. I was just able to get a few shots of it as it disappeared into the bush.

At Crooks’ Corner there were quite a few Hippos all cuddled up together in what little water there was below. Amongst them was a youngster casually walking through and over as it pleased.

On the way back to the Pafuri Picnic site we gazed across the river and noticed quite a lot of Crocodiles lazing on the opposite shore and on sandbanks. Most were large but there seemed to be one monster which took up the whole of a sandbank.

Red-billed and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers were seen together on Buffalos.

In Pafuri we identified 64 different bird species.

Our two nights at Nthakeni went quickly. We would have liked another day to explore the walking trails at Nthakeni but we had a firm booking made at our next spot.

The moon on our last night was spectacular.

Dumela Wilderness Safaris, Mozambique

25th to 29th August 2023

Dumela is 8 kms dirt road driving from the Pafuri/Mozambique Border crossing.

Getting through the RSA border was straight forward – even though the staff were a bit sour. However, on the Moz side all was OK until the Customs inspectors tried their hardest to find fault. Three of them were all round me – being pleasant but desperate to find if I had too much alcohol. Eventually they gave up having borrowed some small change.

Then further down the road we got stopped again by a bloke who tried to look official (they probably called him). He had a jacket on, belt with official looking buckle and a gun holster (but no gun). He settled for some refreshment – a small Coke!!

We had never been to Dumela and we had heard a lot of positive things being said about it. We decided we needed to see for ourselves. And so, our whole trip was built around getting there. Not knowing whether we might like it or not, we decided to stay for four nights. Our thinking was that if we only stayed two nights then we might regret it. Having had the experience, we reckon that three nights would be optimum for us. It would give us two full days to explore the area.

One of the things we did not realise was that this camp is a perfect stopover point for campers on their way to or from Gonarezhou NP in Zimbabwe. Enjoy a trip to the Kruger and then into Moz and Zim at convenient unbusy border posts. Just need to check the level of the rivers before doing so.

It was only an eight km drive but the road was well challenging in places – especially when towing.

At last a sign indicating reception. Up the long steep and testing hill we went. Checked in and were told the camp was back down hill and follow the road directly opposite.

The Camp we chose was next to the Mugano Lagoon as opposed to the Fever Forest Camp. What a wonderful location – like being at the Pafuri Picnic site. Loads of shade (might be an issue to rely on solar panels if you stay amore than 5 days). Lots of ablutions with donkey boilers for when the place is busy.

The camp has at least 20 sites – each very generous in size – and about four ablution blocks. On arrival there was another couple who left the next day. We were alone our second night. On the third night a large group of about 12 people rocked up and shared the place comfortably with us. On our final night the place was almost full – most either on their way to or from Gonarezhou NP in Zimbabwe.

The camp offers guided bird walks to try and find the Pels Fishing-Owl and boat rides on the Lagoon. Another option was to self drive into the largest Fever Tree Forest in Southern Africa – we did twice. And there was another drive past reception on a very rugged road into the bundu – we tried it but had to turn round for lack of grip on a fall off ledge.

Our walk around the camp to find the Pels turned out to be fruitless unfortunately. However, as we were close to the Limpopo – we made a detour to see it.

The next day we were able to re-trace some of our steps by car along the narrow paths (hoping not to encounter the rogue elephant seen near the camp). Part of this drive was close to one end of the lagoon.

Our boat ride was unfortunately cancelled due to very windy weather. Perhaps not a bad thing as the end of the lagoon did not appear to be too far away.

We enjoyed birding in the camp and driving through the Fever Forest. Hearing the Pels calling was very special – even if we did not see it. Some camp birds:

The Fever Tree Forest was the highlight of our time at Dumela.

On the first day we went into the Forest on foot with the Guide and saw a number of Raptors: African Harrier-Hawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Black Sparrowhawk, African Fish-Eagle and an Ovambo Sparrowhawk.

The next time we went to the Fever Tree Forest we saw lovely birds, however, the highlight was a Racket-tailed Roller for a few fleeting seconds.

We were camped under a very shady large tree. At night owls and animals were heard above us – an African Wood Owl in particular. A Fiery-necked nightjar. And in the day, birds scurried and screamed above us. Especially the Trumpeter Hornbills.

Altogether we managed to identify 91 different bird species in the four days we were there. From here it was back into the Kruger to Punda Maria, Shingwedzi, Letaba, Satara and Malelane before heading home. Our account of each of these places continues in Part 3.

Paul and Sally Bartho

That moon again. It has followed us from Nthakeni.

Northern South Africa – Part 1

Sally and I decided to head north to put our Afrispoor Wildcat through its paces – besides we were getting bored sitting at home with the winter weather. We also wanted to check out a campsite in Mozambique close to the Pafuri border post between the Kruger National Park and Mozambique.

Our Route:

Mabalingwe

13 to 14 August 2023

Mabalingwe was chosen as an overnight stop on our way to Marakele. There is quite a lot of smart accommodation but It only has a 4×4 camp with 4 campsites.

On arrival we chose campsite “Olifant”. You can see from the video that it was rough going to get there.

Road to campsite

Here is the entrance to the campsites with the ablutions on the left. It looks rough and ready but it was clean and had a donkey boiler.

And our campsite:

The game viewing area is relatively small but it does have a variety of habitats to explore.

Since we had a late afternoon and early morning there, we were unable to explore fully. However we did manage to travel north to see all the dams. Here are some of our photos from the time there – mainly of birds seen.

And then there were these splendid Violet-eared Waxbills.

It seemed like no sooner had we got there that we were leaving. In future we would consider a 3 nigh stay to have a couple of days to explore more fully. In the short time we were there we recorded 55 different bird species.

Marakele

14 to 16 August 2023

Marakele National Park falls into two parts separated by a tunnel under a road heading north south. The campsite is on the western side of the park.

Bontle Campsite is shown in the left image. In the right image the road heading north near the entrance separates the two parts of the park. Ndlopfu Drive passes through the tunnel from the camping area heading to the Lenong Viewpoint up a steep and very narrow road. At the top you have an incredible view of the surrounding area.

The campsite is well kept with clean ablutions and hot water. The campsites all have power. There is also a pool.

Once we set up camp we had that afternoon and one full day to look around. We spent the first afternoon on the western side. The habitat was very dry and dusty. Not surprisingly there were few animals about.

The following day we headed to the tunnel to take Ndlopfu Drive to go to the Lenong Viewpoint. As we got close to the tunnel, we let another vehicle pass. It too was headed our way. When we arrived at the tunnel, we saw that they had stopped immediately after the tunnel, and we wondered why. As we exited the tunnel we realised they had waited for us to come through.

The Tunnel

And the reason why became apparent. Lionesses were trotting up the road ahead which quickly disappeared into the bush. Not far, further along, we bumped into five Buffalos scampering through the bush beside us. A little further White Rhinos were grazing on a hillside.

Then came the drive up the narrow and steep road to the summit. Wide enough for one car with the odd area where the road had been widened to allow two cars, coming in opposite directions, to pass.

And then we got to the top. Windy and cool. Great views all round.

The only birds we saw at the top was a small gathering of Cape Vultures

Coming down:

On the way down!

On the way down, near the bottom, elephants off to our lower side. Not bad seeing some special species considering we saw few other animals! Followed by a Kudu and yet more White Rhinos. And on one of them a Nosepecker!!

And here are some photos we took of other animals and birds in the time we were in Marakele.

And so ended our time in Marakele. In total we identified 49 bird species. And then we were on our way to Blouberg.

Blouberg

16 to 19 August 2023

Leaving Marakele, the GPS indicated it was a mere 200 kms to Blougberg. It was right of course, but we assumed that was the travel distance. Not so. As the crow flies it is 200 kms.

Arriving later than we intended, we quickly set up camp.

The campsite has six sites. Three close to the ablutions and three privately set away in the bush. The campsites in the bush are huge and could easily cater for at least a party of three caravans. We chose campsite 3 in the bush. The ablutions were fairly basic and could do with a facelift. Sometimes they were quite dark inside and you need to knock to find out if anyone was inside as the doors were always kept closed to keep out the aminals.

Here is a map of the roads you can travel on in Blouberg.

The campsite is shown as Molope Camp on the map. Near the Main Gate – top right.

We had two full days in Blouberg. We planned to visit the Vulture Colony (number 34/35 on the map – bottom left) driving along the southern fence line from the office. However, we were told that road was closed due to earlier rain. We had no intention of using the alternative over Rapanyana’s Neck because the last time we went, the road was so rocky that it took us over 2 hours to get there in our 4×4!

The Vulture Colony is on the other side of the mountain. To reach it from this side you need to take a trek up the unpathed hillside when there is an organised outing. It is long and arduous we understand.

There are three other places which, for us, were well worth several visits – The Vulture Restaurant, Buffelpan Hide and the Fig Forest.

Driving around we also found what looked like another “Restaurant” where we found Cape Vultures devouring a Giraffe.

The Vulture Restaurant had numerous old carcasses but no vultures. Methinks, they were waiting for fresher meat. As you can see from the above photos, the reserve was very dry and dusty.

The Baobabs were aplenty – huge and majestic. At one you are allowed out to take photos.

The Fig Forest and the Buffelpan Hide were the standout places to visit.

Buffelpan Hide is a low level hide – almost at water level. The pan level was low at the time we visited.

Buffelpan Hide. This is a wide angle photo so the water appears further away than it actually is.

Because the water level was low there were very large catfish easily seen wiggling about.

It is a place where there is a lot of activity. Animals come and go all the time.

And the Kudu were unusually in numbers. Some with majestic horns. All coming for a drink. The most skittish were the Wildebees and Zebras.

Like the last time we visited, Mountain Reedbucks – with their shaggy coats – also came to drink. Sadly one was blind in one eye, and another had a snare around its body. (We made management aware of the snare). Here are some photos of the Mountain Reedbucks.

And then there were the birds:

And the best for last – The Fig Tree Forest. It is not a big area but the bird life was great.

You are permitted to walk around the trail – easily done in 5 minutes but we took over an hour.

Such a variety of birds were seen in the bush, trees and on the ground. There were Robins, Robin-Chats (even an RCRC bird – Red-capped Robin-Chat which we thought unusual), Waxbills, Honeyguides, Bulbuls, Greenbuls, Green Woodhoopoes, Scimitarbills, Doves, Orioles, Pytilia, Kingfisher, Guineafowl, Mousebirds, Thrushes, Puffbacks, Weavers and more. It reminded us of a KZN coastal forest.

We would willingly go back here just for the Hide and the Fig Forest.

And then it was time to leave. As I was driving out of the campsite, Sally stopped me. And there on our left were a family of Retz’s Helmetshrikes. What a way to go!

In all we identified 61 different bird species during our time at Blouberg.

And so ends Part 1.

Part 2 will start with our time in Mapungubwe.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Saunder’s Tern

St. Lucia 16th to 18th September 2023

On Saturday 16th September, at 10h30, Sally and I decided to go and look for the Saunder,s Tern in St. Lucia, KZN. The Saunder’s Tern is a new rarity which pitched up unexpectedly amongst the Tern roost on the St. Lucia beach. We planned to stay just 2 nights at Sugarloaf caravan park.

We quickly prepared our Afrispoor Wildcat off-road caravan and were on our way by 11h30 arriving at 15h30. Four hours from Howick. Along the way we passed 8 kms of trucks in a single line queue waiting to enter the road to Richards Bay. On the way home the queue was 11 kms!!.

Off-loaded and hurriedly to the beach. Note the roof drops easily to monkey proof entry into the caravan.

Once settled in at the campsite, we took a walk to the tern roost to see what was what. It was high tide and the incoming water breached the dunes and was entering the estuary making it impossible to get close to the river mouth.

The Breach

We headed to the beach and looked south towards the river mouth still a long way away. The river mouth was also very wide. And of course, the Terns were on the opposite side of the river. Even with a scope it was impossible to identify anything positively.

The next morning, we were up early for a gander around the Sugarloaf aviary before heading to the Tern roost. (I call it an aviary because at times when we have stayed there, we have recorded around 90 different bird species in the camp alone). With what we had seen the night before we thought it best to head for the river mouth when the tide was out so that we could get around the breach.

The campsite birding was great as usual. Birds had been calling since wake-up. Getting photos was not easy as it was overcast, and the bush is quite dense. We spend time looking for the Green Malkoha which was calling beside us – no luck. However, we did find the Narina Trogon and I got a shot much to my delight especially as it was in the darkest undergrowth. Special bird.

Narina Trogon.

The common bird in the camp is the Red-capped Robin-Chat. It has such a distinctive look. I love its steely back appearance.

Red-capped Robin-Chat

Next stop – the Tern Roost. And were we surprised how the beach and river mouth had changed since the previous afternoon. The breach to the estuary was dry and following its path made for hard sand on which to walk. When we got to the beach, the river had cut a channel along the beach with the other side of the river directly opposite us not 50 metres away. And there, the birds sat in the Tern roost.

A look down the beach to where the river mouth was the day before.

We quickly got our minds sorted, binoculars out and the scope set up. By this time, we were told that the Saunder’s Tern was there and was easily identifiable. It was pointed out to us. It was the furthest bird from us. And being tiny, it was difficult for me to get a special shot of the Saunder’s Tern. Maybe a tripod would have helped.

The Saunder’s Tern – quite different from all the other Terms due to its white head and very small size.

On the way back among the sand dunes we saw a number of other bird species. The most unusual being a Common Sandpiper bobbing away pecking at whatever it was interested in in the dunes.

After some time with the Saunder’s Tern, we went into Eastern Shores, Isimangaliso Wetland Park. There was water everywhere – not what we expected for the end of winter. There were ponds everywhere beside the road.

These ponds had some special birds if you looked carefully.

On the roads, Collared Pratincoles were seen as well as Red-breasted Swallows, Burchell’s Coucals to name a few.

At another pond, Malachite Kingfisher, African Pygmy Geese and White-backed Ducks.

At the hide overlooking kuMfazana Pan, we had tea. The water level came right up to the hide. We had not seen it so full. Looking out, there were birds on the far side. However, we were entertained by a variety of small birds which feasted on the berries in the foliage just below our viewing point. Mainly Tawny-flanked Prinia and a beautiful Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird.

The Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird:

A Grey Heron had a commanding view over the Pan:

At Cape Vidal we had a quick visit to the beach. There were quite a number of Grey-headed Gulls about. But one in particular caught our eye as two of its siblings were demanding to be fed. We assume that the siblings were hatched inland and flew down here with their parents.

Then there were the Red-billed Oxpeckers on the back of a Buffalo on the Vlei Loop.

Red-billed Oxpeckers with one young one begging for food. On the back of what initially looked like a Rhino but was a Cape Buffalo.

On entering the Park, our first diversion off the main road was on the Pan Loop. As we travelled down the dirt road we spotted or rather heard a Croaking Cisticola.

Croaking Cisticola

As we glanced right, we could see that the pan below the Amazibu Hide was extremely full and there was a Buffalo making its way across the middle.

Buffalo Crossing. Water right up to the dirt road.

After the next right-hand corner, the grassland to the left has now become a rather full pan. It was here that we spotted the first of our three sightings of Rufous-bellied Herons. The third came later at the exact place where the above picture was taken. These were special sightings as they were all very close – within 5 metres of us. In the second incidence we watched as the Heron caught a frog and devoured it.

An unlucky frog provides a meal for a hungry Rufous-bellied Heron.

In the short time we were there, we recorded 94 different bird species.

Walk Good.

Hope you enjoyed the read and photos.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Leisure View Campsite Nr. Port Edward

2nd to 6th July 3023

Our new Afrispoor Wildcat was crying out for a test run before we planned any long trips. Sally and I therefore decided to visit a caravan site on the coast not too far from my sister in Sea Park. We chose Leisure View Caravan Park inland north of Port Edward.

As it was school holidays, we expected it to be full. Not so. In fact, over the period that we were there only one other site was occupied.

We chose a flat grassy site with a spectacular view.

Our view of the coast probably a kilometre away at most.

Also, right next to us was a large Fig tree which both monkeys and birds enjoyed as it was fruiting. The monkeys kept their distance.

The tree was regularly talking to us – the sound of hundreds of Red-wing Starlings enjoying a feast of figs. Then we would hear the Turacos passing through, an occasional Black-headed Oriole or the chatter of greedy Vervets. And from time-to-time Trumpeter Hornbills and Green Pigeons.

One of the purposes of our trip was to ensure we practiced setting up and packing up, trying out the awning with all its sides and extra roof and to make sure all worked without issue. We did have one difficulty making the bed as the mattrass was too tightly fitted. When we got home in Howick we called David – Afrispoor – and he immediately made a new one for us and had it delivered and fitted within 2 days. That is what you can expect with Afrispoor – first class service.

Not long after setting up and relaxing we noticed a raptor flying about and landing on a branch of a palm tree at the bottom of the slope halfway to the coast. To our surprise it was a Palmnut Vulture.

Then it was time to put up the roof extensions and all the sides to the awning. Fortunately, all the different pieces were well labelled. Despite that, it still took a while moving step ladders and holding up heavy canvas so that the zips could be properly fitted. A bit of effort but a lot learned.

We had a few walks on different beaches – TO Strand below us and Marina Beach near San Lameer where we also had a very cool and windy anniversary lunch – Independance Day no less.

We also took a drive to Umtamvuna and went for a walk up-river. Very quiet birdlife. Probably only identified 4 bird species. Somewhat disappointing. The last time we visited we were treated to an aerobatic display by Mango monkeys. None this time. Then we went up to Beacon Hill above Umtamvuna. A number of raptors were seen – African Harrier-Hawk and a Lanner Falcon. Cape Rock Thrushes appeared, and a few other species were present. After a short walk we gave up.

Little did we realise it, but our Atlas card covered the Umtamvuma, Beacon Hill and Leisure View areas. We recorded 44 different bird species in total.

We enjoyed a cloudless full moon one evening enabling us to take some lekker photos.

Paul and Sally

Ben Vie

27th July 2023

Sally and I with our friend Vicky went early morning to Ben Vie Gardens – having first called to ensure it was ok for us to come. We were advised by John Geekie to come real early to see the specials – Orange Ground Thrush, Chorister Robin-Chat, Lemon Dove, Olive Woodpecker, Grey Cuckooshrike, Bush Blackcap, Forest Canaries, Red-backed Mannikins and the nesting Crowned Eagles and African Fish-Eagles.

We arrived at 08h00 hoping we were not too late.

As we turned the corner to the parking area, there in front of us was an Orange Ground Thrush making its way towards us. This was one of seven we saw that morning.

First dash was to the loo. From there we looked up the path towards the feeding station and saw numerous birds flitting in and out of the bushes – including a Lemon Dove, several Chorister Robin-Chats, Olive Thrushes. All enjoying the food station.

So, within minutes we had seen three specials which are sometimes difficult to find. And each gave us ample time to enjoy their presence despite the gloomy feeding area which made photography challenging as you can see from the photos.

Southern Boubous were calling as well as the Chorister Robin-Chats and the African Fish-Eagles. Forest Canaries and Red-backed Mannikins littered the lawns. Olive Thrushes were everywhere.

After a while we had tea and then continued our walk to the bottom of the grounds. We found the nesting Crowned Eagles. And watched as they both flew the nest. We observed where one flew and saw it returning to the nest carrying a rather long stick to add to the nest.

Then in one tree close by, there were a number of birds flitting around at the top of a tree. Eventually we identified a Bush Blackcap and a Grey Cuckooshrike.

On the way home a pair of Wattled Cranes were seen close to the Karkloof Conservancy.

What a morning. Altogether we atlassed 26 different bird species at BenVie.

Paul and Sally Bartho