Dumela – Birds are our Story

Northern South Africa – Part 2

Published on December 3, 2023December 4, 2023 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

In Part 2 I will cover the time we had in Mapungubwe, Nthakeni and Pafuri as well as Dumela Camp in Mozambique.

Mapungubwe National Park

19th to 23rd August 2023

Mapungubwe NP is one of our favourite Parks. This year it was very very dry – dusty and the waterholes almost empty.

The NP is split into two areas. The campsites are in the Western section and the Chalets, Reception nestled in a picturesque rocky area in the Eastern Section.

**Western Section of Mapungubwe. Mazhou camp is at the top to the west of the Tented Camp**

Mazhou Campsite

Little Bushbabies made their presence known.

The campsite has an interesting entrance “Gate”. It is self-service and designed to keep out the elephants. It is a coiled electricified wire with an insulated handle. Pulling the handle towards the fence releases it. Once the vehicle is through then reconnect.

The park is littered with dead trees lying on dusty ground. Typical dry and dusty scenery everywhere in the park shown below.

Some water in the Limpopo River. Northernmost boundary

The Maloutswa Hide was a basically a mud hole. It had signs of water above the mud in one corner of the waterhole. Sadly a Gnu went into the mud to reach surface water but never made it back out again.

Maloutswa Hide Mud Bath

Meve’s Starlings and Laughing Doves were in their masses around the mud hole enjoying what little water there was. An occasional Meyer’s Parrot would fly over. Water Monitors lingered in the mud. Animals came and went. It seemed the only foolhardy were the Gnus, Zebras and Warthogs.

One day we ventured out the Western Gate and went directly opposite into the veldt. We were treated to numerous sightings of both Chestnut-backed and Grey-backed Sparrow-Larks even juveniles which confused us for a while. Here are some of their photos.

In that section we also found Sandgrouses (Burchell’s and Double-banded), White-browed Sparrow-Weavers, White-crowned Shrikes, Crowned Lapwings and Scaly-feathered Finches to name a few.

Elsewhere in the Western Section we spotted some secretive and not-so secretive species.

We also visited the Eastern Section of the Park. About 20 kms drive from East to West entrances along the Den Staat road.

We spent a day in the Eastern Section. It too was very dry and dusty. On entry we encountered Impala Lilies – always very colourful.

Then we went west on entry and had great views over the valley despite the dry and dusty conditions.

The drive to Leokwe boulder camp is always scenic, however the birds were scarce. As usual the Klipspringers and Dassies were not.

From Leokwe it was a short drive to the boardwalk at the Treetop Lookout. On the way there are many Baobabs. And we spotted a Kori Bustard.

The boardwalk was a little rickety and had been damaged at the end closest to the Limpopo River. On the walk we sighted a White-backed Vulture’s nest close by with a chick on board.

By the time we got to the Confluence it was tea-time and the picnic site was most welcome. The view towards the river is magnificent. Overhead it seemed that there was a pathway for the birds flying over the ridge. Some even chanced there luck with our crumbs.

View of one side of the picnic site overlooking the river in the distance. It is worth walking across the ridge to see the view on the other side.

As you look down across the plain below you have a sense that you are viewing numerous Meerkats in an upward stance peering into the distance.

From here we headed along the river to the SANDF Bunker. A pretty and testing drive at times. Every time in the past that we visited this area we have found Pels Fishing Owls in the tall trees by the bunker – not this time unfortunately.

Zebra Pan was quiet – probably the time of day when we got there. On to the lookout Point over Zhizo, more for the view over the river. We did spot several Saddle-billed Storks but not much else.

Throughout the day we had seen many pairs of African Hawk-Eagles and an ocassional Gabar Goshawk.. Here are a few photos.

We continued the circle back to reception. By now it was after midday and the birds were quiet. It was only when we reached the small dam just before reception that things got interesting. Well very interesting and unexpected.

Dam before reception. Always a must visit. And it proved so again.

Not only a bird haven but Dassie heaven too.

Here are some of the birds seen there.

The Greater Painted Snipe was most unexpected and to see how friendly it was with the other species was awesome.

In total we identified 81 different bird species.

After four nights in Mapungubwe it was time to move on.

Nthakeni Bush and River Camp birding near Pafuri, KNP.

23rd to 25th August 2023

Our next destination was Nthakeni Bush and River Camp about 240 kms from Mapungubwe. The camp is located just 5 kms from the Pafuri Gate into the Kruger National Park (KNP). And it was from Nthakeni that we explored the Pafuri area of the Kruger National Park.

A short drive from the main road to the camp through pleasant scenery. And then into a well maintained camp.

What a wonderful new campsite – Croc’s Corner – we were allocated. Great private setting in the bush overlooking the river with own ablution facilities. No power but free WiFi in the lounge area and an honesty bar. The shop in the lounge was well stocked with virtually all that a camper could want. Fairly priced too.

Birding in the camp is like birding at the Pafuri Picnic site in the Kruger. How’s this for an interesting creature.

**It is called a Tailless Whip Scorpion believe it or not. However, it is not a scorpion at all!!** **Not** **venomous**.

The camp birds sang for us and although we did not do a lot of birding around the camp, we still managed to record 21 different bird species. Here are some that we managed to photograph.

Most of our time was spent in the Pafuri area of the Kruger where we identified 64 different bird species.

On our way to the bridge we kept an eye and ear out for the Racket-tailed Rollers without success.

At the bridge we spent some time looking out for Spinetails – no luck. There were a number of raptors about – African Fish-Eagle, Bateleur, African Harrier-Hawk and a Tawny Eagle. The Tawny Eagle was being bombed by a White-crowned Lapwing. Very few waders present – just a Wood Sandpiper. There was a Giant Kingfisher and numerous Crested Guineafowl came for a drink.

As we stood on the bridge and looked upstream, we saw and heard a huge commotion – huge crocodiles fighting and looking below us was another upside down – rather dead sadly.

Sally heard a call – Tropical Boubou and there it was crossing the road at the gate end of the bridge. I was just able to get a few shots of it as it disappeared into the bush.

At Crooks’ Corner there were quite a few Hippos all cuddled up together in what little water there was below. Amongst them was a youngster casually walking through and over as it pleased.

On the way back to the Pafuri Picnic site we gazed across the river and noticed quite a lot of Crocodiles lazing on the opposite shore and on sandbanks. Most were large but there seemed to be one monster which took up the whole of a sandbank.

Red-billed and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers were seen together on Buffalos.

In Pafuri we identified 64 different bird species.

Our two nights at Nthakeni went quickly. We would have liked another day to explore the walking trails at Nthakeni but we had a firm booking made at our next spot.

The moon on our last night was spectacular.

Dumela Wilderness Safaris, Mozambique

25th to 29th August 2023

Dumela is 8 kms dirt road driving from the Pafuri/Mozambique Border crossing.

Getting through the RSA border was straight forward – even though the staff were a bit sour. However, on the Moz side all was OK until the Customs inspectors tried their hardest to find fault. Three of them were all round me – being pleasant but desperate to find if I had too much alcohol. Eventually they gave up having borrowed some small change.

Then further down the road we got stopped again by a bloke who tried to look official (they probably called him). He had a jacket on, belt with official looking buckle and a gun holster (but no gun). He settled for some refreshment – a small Coke!!

We had never been to Dumela and we had heard a lot of positive things being said about it. We decided we needed to see for ourselves. And so, our whole trip was built around getting there. Not knowing whether we might like it or not, we decided to stay for four nights. Our thinking was that if we only stayed two nights then we might regret it. Having had the experience, we reckon that three nights would be optimum for us. It would give us two full days to explore the area.

One of the things we did not realise was that this camp is a perfect stopover point for campers on their way to or from Gonarezhou NP in Zimbabwe. Enjoy a trip to the Kruger and then into Moz and Zim at convenient unbusy border posts. Just need to check the level of the rivers before doing so.

It was only an eight km drive but the road was well challenging in places – especially when towing.

At last a sign indicating reception. Up the long steep and testing hill we went. Checked in and were told the camp was back down hill and follow the road directly opposite.

The Camp we chose was next to the Mugano Lagoon as opposed to the Fever Forest Camp. What a wonderful location – like being at the Pafuri Picnic site. Loads of shade (might be an issue to rely on solar panels if you stay amore than 5 days). Lots of ablutions with donkey boilers for when the place is busy.

**Our Campsite overlooking the Mugano Lagoon. Well shaded.**

The camp has at least 20 sites – each very generous in size – and about four ablution blocks. On arrival there was another couple who left the next day. We were alone our second night. On the third night a large group of about 12 people rocked up and shared the place comfortably with us. On our final night the place was almost full – most either on their way to or from Gonarezhou NP in Zimbabwe.

The camp offers guided bird walks to try and find the Pels Fishing-Owl and boat rides on the Lagoon. Another option was to self drive into the largest Fever Tree Forest in Southern Africa – we did twice. And there was another drive past reception on a very rugged road into the bundu – we tried it but had to turn round for lack of grip on a fall off ledge.

Our walk around the camp to find the Pels turned out to be fruitless unfortunately. However, as we were close to the Limpopo – we made a detour to see it.

The next day we were able to re-trace some of our steps by car along the narrow paths (hoping not to encounter the rogue elephant seen near the camp). Part of this drive was close to one end of the lagoon.

Our boat ride was unfortunately cancelled due to very windy weather. Perhaps not a bad thing as the end of the lagoon did not appear to be too far away.

We enjoyed birding in the camp and driving through the Fever Forest. Hearing the Pels calling was very special – even if we did not see it. Some camp birds:

The Fever Tree Forest was the highlight of our time at Dumela.

On the first day we went into the Forest on foot with the Guide and saw a number of Raptors: African Harrier-Hawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Black Sparrowhawk, African Fish-Eagle and an Ovambo Sparrowhawk.

The next time we went to the Fever Tree Forest we saw lovely birds, however, the highlight was a Racket-tailed Roller for a few fleeting seconds.

We were camped under a very shady large tree. At night owls and animals were heard above us – an African Wood Owl in particular. A Fiery-necked nightjar. And in the day, birds scurried and screamed above us. Especially the Trumpeter Hornbills.

Altogether we managed to identify 91 different bird species in the four days we were there. From here it was back into the Kruger to Punda Maria, Shingwedzi, Letaba, Satara and Malelane before heading home. Our account of each of these places continues in Part 3.

Paul and Sally Bartho

That moon again. It has followed us from Nthakeni.

Northern South Africa – Part 1

Published on November 19, 2023 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Sally and I decided to head north to put our Afrispoor Wildcat through its paces – besides we were getting bored sitting at home with the winter weather. We also wanted to check out a campsite in Mozambique close to the Pafuri border post between the Kruger National Park and Mozambique.

Our Route:

Route North August September 2023oute-north-aug-sep-2023 Download

Mabalingwe

13 to 14 August 2023

Mabalingwe was chosen as an overnight stop on our way to Marakele. There is quite a lot of smart accommodation but It only has a 4×4 camp with 4 campsites.

On arrival we chose campsite “Olifant”. You can see from the video that it was rough going to get there.

Road to campsite

Here is the entrance to the campsites with the ablutions on the left. It looks rough and ready but it was clean and had a donkey boiler.

And our campsite:

The game viewing area is relatively small but it does have a variety of habitats to explore.

Since we had a late afternoon and early morning there, we were unable to explore fully. However we did manage to travel north to see all the dams. Here are some of our photos from the time there – mainly of birds seen.

White-breasted Cormorant and African Darter

And then there were these splendid Violet-eared Waxbills.

It seemed like no sooner had we got there that we were leaving. In future we would consider a 3 nigh stay to have a couple of days to explore more fully. In the short time we were there we recorded 55 different bird species.

Marakele

14 to 16 August 2023

Marakele National Park falls into two parts separated by a tunnel under a road heading north south. The campsite is on the western side of the park.

Bontle Campsite is shown in the left image. In the right image the road heading north near the entrance separates the two parts of the park. Ndlopfu Drive passes through the tunnel from the camping area heading to the Lenong Viewpoint up a steep and very narrow road. At the top you have an incredible view of the surrounding area.

The campsite is well kept with clean ablutions and hot water. The campsites all have power. There is also a pool.

Once we set up camp we had that afternoon and one full day to look around. We spent the first afternoon on the western side. The habitat was very dry and dusty. Not surprisingly there were few animals about.

The following day we headed to the tunnel to take Ndlopfu Drive to go to the Lenong Viewpoint. As we got close to the tunnel, we let another vehicle pass. It too was headed our way. When we arrived at the tunnel, we saw that they had stopped immediately after the tunnel, and we wondered why. As we exited the tunnel we realised they had waited for us to come through.

And the reason why became apparent. Lionesses were trotting up the road ahead which quickly disappeared into the bush. Not far, further along, we bumped into five Buffalos scampering through the bush beside us. A little further White Rhinos were grazing on a hillside.

Then came the drive up the narrow and steep road to the summit. Wide enough for one car with the odd area where the road had been widened to allow two cars, coming in opposite directions, to pass.

And then we got to the top. Windy and cool. Great views all round.

The only birds we saw at the top was a small gathering of Cape Vultures

Coming down:

On the way down!

On the way down, near the bottom, elephants off to our lower side. Not bad seeing some special species considering we saw few other animals! Followed by a Kudu and yet more White Rhinos. And on one of them a Nosepecker!!

And here are some photos we took of other animals and birds in the time we were in Marakele.

Male (top) and Female Bennett’s Woodpecker below

And so ended our time in Marakele. In total we identified 49 bird species. And then we were on our way to Blouberg.

Blouberg

16 to 19 August 2023

Leaving Marakele, the GPS indicated it was a mere 200 kms to Blougberg. It was right of course, but we assumed that was the travel distance. Not so. As the crow flies it is 200 kms.

Arriving later than we intended, we quickly set up camp.

The campsite has six sites. Three close to the ablutions and three privately set away in the bush. The campsites in the bush are huge and could easily cater for at least a party of three caravans. We chose campsite 3 in the bush. The ablutions were fairly basic and could do with a facelift. Sometimes they were quite dark inside and you need to knock to find out if anyone was inside as the doors were always kept closed to keep out the aminals.

Here is a map of the roads you can travel on in Blouberg.

**The campsite is shown as Molope Camp on the map.** **Near the Main Gate – top right.**

We had two full days in Blouberg. We planned to visit the Vulture Colony (number 34/35 on the map – bottom left) driving along the southern fence line from the office. However, we were told that road was closed due to earlier rain. We had no intention of using the alternative over Rapanyana’s Neck because the last time we went, the road was so rocky that it took us over 2 hours to get there in our 4×4!

The Vulture Colony is on the other side of the mountain. To reach it from this side you need to take a trek up the unpathed hillside when there is an organised outing. It is long and arduous we understand.

There are three other places which, for us, were well worth several visits – The Vulture Restaurant, Buffelpan Hide and the Fig Forest.

Driving around we also found what looked like another “Restaurant” where we found Cape Vultures devouring a Giraffe.

The Vulture Restaurant had numerous old carcasses but no vultures. Methinks, they were waiting for fresher meat. As you can see from the above photos, the reserve was very dry and dusty.

The Baobabs were aplenty – huge and majestic. At one you are allowed out to take photos.

The Fig Forest and the Buffelpan Hide were the standout places to visit.

Buffelpan Hide is a low level hide – almost at water level. The pan level was low at the time we visited.

**Buffelpan Hide. This is a wide angle photo so the water appears further away than it actually is.**

Because the water level was low there were very large catfish easily seen wiggling about.

It is a place where there is a lot of activity. Animals come and go all the time.

And the Kudu were unusually in numbers. Some with majestic horns. All coming for a drink. The most skittish were the Wildebees and Zebras.

Like the last time we visited, Mountain Reedbucks – with their shaggy coats – also came to drink. Sadly one was blind in one eye, and another had a snare around its body. (We made management aware of the snare). Here are some photos of the Mountain Reedbucks.

And then there were the birds:

And the best for last – The Fig Tree Forest. It is not a big area but the bird life was great.

You are permitted to walk around the trail – easily done in 5 minutes but we took over an hour.

Such a variety of birds were seen in the bush, trees and on the ground. There were Robins, Robin-Chats (even an RCRC bird – Red-capped Robin-Chat which we thought unusual), Waxbills, Honeyguides, Bulbuls, Greenbuls, Green Woodhoopoes, Scimitarbills, Doves, Orioles, Pytilia, Kingfisher, Guineafowl, Mousebirds, Thrushes, Puffbacks, Weavers and more. It reminded us of a KZN coastal forest.

We would willingly go back here just for the Hide and the Fig Forest.

And then it was time to leave. As I was driving out of the campsite, Sally stopped me. And there on our left were a family of Retz’s Helmetshrikes. What a way to go!