Letaba – Birds are our Story

Northern South Africa – Part 3

Published on January 3, 2024January 3, 2024 by Paul Bartho2 Comments

Kruger National Park

29th August to 9th September 2023

This part of our trip took us to wherever we could find camping accommodation. It started in Punda Maria for 2 nights, 3 nights in Shingwedzi, 2 nights in Letaba, a night in Satara and finally 3 nights in Malelane.

So, from Dumela in Mozambique we took the S63 to the H1-8 and headed to Punda Maria. On the way we passed the “Big Hill” near Pafuri.

We turned off the main road south onto the tar (H13-1) to Punda. Within a few kilometres there was a large mud puddle on the left. And stuck in it was an unfortunate rather dead buffalo. Several White-backed Vultures were trying to have a feast without much success.

At Pafuri we chose a campsite at the top – our favourite spot close to a clean and non-smelly ablutions. Our choice was very limited because of the position of the electric points. Nowadays it is wise to take an extra long cable as the electric points are few and far between and each point only has 4 plugs.

In our time there we visited Klopperfontein – the busiest place in the short time at Punda. On the way there we noticed that the countryside had many colourful trees.

On our way to Punda on the (H1-8), we decided it was prudent not to take the Klopperfontein shortcut (S61) to Punda since we were towing and the road is known as a good place to see elephants. The Dam was empty of elephants but it had good birdlife. There were both Black-headed and Grey Heron, an Egyptian Duck, Pied Kingfishers, Pied Wagtails, a Three-banded Plover, an African Fish-eagle and a Knob-billed Duck.

Here are some of the other animals, birds we saw on our ride around the loop.

In the camp the Monkeys are always present. Sometimes naughty and sometimes fun to watch. Here is a head-twisting video to watch.

And then we were off to Shingwedzi, having recorded 79 different bird species in and around Punda Maria.

Shingwedzi

31 August to 3rd September 2023

The east side of the road to Shingwedzi (H1-7) had recently been set on fire and areas were still smoldering. In the distance we saw what looked like tornados and small cloud formations on the horizon in an otherwise cloudless sky. It was only as we drew closer that the “clouds” were actually smoke formations.

At Shingwedzi our campsite (18) was an “on the fence” site. The only ones available. Normally we would not have chosen a fenced site but as it happened this site was fairly shady and not too close to neighbours – also relatively close to an electric point.

The river on the left driving into the camp had only a few patches of water – one of the few areas close by with water. Water was scarce as we drove the Shongalolo Loop (R52), up the R56 to Babalala Picnic site and down river (S50) to the Nyawutsi Hide.

River on way to Nyawutsi Hide – very dry.

Similarly very dry on the R56 to Babalala Picnic site.

The river along the Shongololo loop was similarly dry.

We had White-backed Vultures in the bush beside us trying their best to guzzle on a corpse – perhaps a dead Hippo.

Then there were 2 Buffalos having a tussle in the riverbed to the camp and one with yellow-billed Oxpeckers on its back.

Crocodiles amassed together in whatever water they could find.

At the Nyawutsi Hide, a leguaan made an appearance showing its grappling claws as well as numerous Buntings – Golden-breasted and Cape, a Black-winged Stilt and a Hamerkop.

In the camp there were many colourful birds and an occasional creature.

Some beautiful birds we saw round and about.

Then there were some of the aminals;

Raptors: Not many seen and only one photoed.

And on the Shongololo Loop we had 2 treats. A large male Kudu with an extra twist in its horns and a Lioness. Our first big cat.

And to cap off our time in Shingwedzi I love this Hippo photo taken along the R56 to Babalala.

The days flew quickly and it was time to go but not before the Moon had its piece to say.

In total we recorded 97 different bird species in the 2 full days there. Eventually it was time to head south to Letaba.

Letaba

3rd to 5th September 2023

So, no sooner than we headed south on the H1-6 than we had large animals with several young racing across the road in front of us.

Surprise – Roan Antelope;

As we approached Letaba we noticed that the river had more water in it than those further north.

In the evening we watched a Wahlberg’s Eagle catching bats from the vantage of the bridge.

And in the morning we looked up river and what did we see?

**Easier to see now that I have zoomed in.**

**There he is – the King of the cats.** Zoomed in even more.

Letaba River

On arrival we looked around for a suitable campsite close to an electric point. In the end we got lucky as someone was moving out of a shady site close to the entrance with a close by power point.

Campsite – no need to put out the awning as it was shady and we only had one full day there.

We had a stroll around the camp and enjoyed the view of the river, the camp elephant and sadly the cut down stumps of a tree which my niece and nephew used to climb.

On our walk round the camp we had several bird encounters.

Crested Barbet very close taking no notice of us

A video of our friendly Crested Barbet.

Crested Barbet.

Raptors seemed more plentiful than further north.

And then there were other species on our drives around the area – birds and animals.

Then we had some time with a small pack of Wild Dogs. A chance sighting of these athletic light- footed creatures.

Surprisingly we recorded 79 different bird species in the short time we were there.

From Letaba we wanted to get to Malelane. A very long drive. We popped in to Satara on the off chance of a night or two on the way down. One night was all we could get.

Satara

5th to 6th of September 2023

On arrival we quickly set up camp and spent the afternoon and part of the early morning of the next day driving the S100 and H7 south of the camp. Not a lot to see game wise, however we did identify 51 bird species in the short time there.

On a walk around the camp, we headed to the reception area hoping to pick up some interesting birds. However, seeing an African Scops Owl immediately in front of the restaurant was a bit of a surprise. A pleasant surprise.

Gnarly tree roots in front of the restaurant

We did come across Wahlberg’s Eagles. A brown morph and another not so brown with a grey /whitish head.

Here are some of the other bird species we managed to photograph.

Some special species amongst those above – the Lemon-breasted canary being the main one. In all we identified 51 bird species in and around Satara.

The next day we were on our way to Malelane – a long drive.

Malelane

6th to 9th September 2023.

On the way to Malelane we did stop at several places – Tshokwane for breakfast, Leeupan to check what birds were there, On the bridge over the Sabi River on the way passed Skukuza, Afsaal as a loo stop. All in all, it took us almost 8 hours to get to Malelane Private Camp.

Tshokwane was cold and void of birds. Leeupan had water but the weather limited what birds were about.

The Sabi River was low. Here are pics taken on the bridge looking up and down river.

Afsaal was crowded with many game viewing vehicles – expected as the park was full full.

Then we arrived at Malelane Private Camp close to the Malelane gate. And were able to get probably our favourite spot at the bottom of the camp. We have yet to try the sites on the right on entry which we understand are also level.

Berg-en-dal camp is always worth a visit. Its birdlife is excellent and we were not disappointed this time despite the dam being almost empty.

The dam was where the action was for us. A Hamerkop flew over. Brown-headed Parrots landed above us. A Green-backed Heron was seen in the mud then up on the dam wall being chased off by a Grey-headed Heron before taking a hiding place opposite waiting for dinner to arrive. Then beside us in a tree we noticed a pair of Little Sparrowhawks – one a juvenile calling for food. And as we were about to leave, we heard an African Barred Owlet calling to the right of the dam. After searching for a while we finally spotted it and watched it continue calling.

The S114 to S25 then onto the S119 and S118 before returning along the tarred road – H3 – is a loop we often take. Here are some of the birds we encountered along the way:

A Bateleur and a Tawny Eagle sharing a meal – not

And some of the aminals seen on the circuit:

Girafffe looks like he is sitting to eat.

The Gardenia Hide is on the S119. This hide can be birding dull or full of life. This time we visited there were raptors in the trees and flying overhead – severely testing our skills at identifying them.

Ahh….. yes, the hilarious incident of the Pearl-spotted Owlet and the Grey-headed Bushshrike.

As we drove along the S114 we stopped at a tree with many birds calling like crazy – Starlings and Fork-tailed Drongos. We looked for a possible snake but saw none. Eventually they flew off. As we moved off too, I noticed that one small dark bird was left behind. Just in case, we had a better look and realised that it was this bird causing all the tumult – a Pearl-spotted Owlet.

Next thing we knew another bird came flying in calling like mad and went straight for the Pearl-spotted Owlet. The Owlet as calm as you like, turned its head away from the Grey-headed Bushshrike and totally ignored it. The Bushshrike continued its ministrations getting ever closer to no avail. Hilarious to watch.

In all, 72 different bird species were identified in the Malelane area and a total of 232 species for our whole 4 week trip. You can download our trip list here.

13th August to 9th September 2023 bird list Download

And so ended our trip. It was great to get away in the winter months.

Hope you have enjoyed the read.

Paul and Sally Bartho (King).

Northern South Africa – Part 1

Published on November 19, 2023 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Sally and I decided to head north to put our Afrispoor Wildcat through its paces – besides we were getting bored sitting at home with the winter weather. We also wanted to check out a campsite in Mozambique close to the Pafuri border post between the Kruger National Park and Mozambique.

Our Route:

Route North August September 2023oute-north-aug-sep-2023 Download

Mabalingwe

13 to 14 August 2023

Mabalingwe was chosen as an overnight stop on our way to Marakele. There is quite a lot of smart accommodation but It only has a 4×4 camp with 4 campsites.

On arrival we chose campsite “Olifant”. You can see from the video that it was rough going to get there.

Road to campsite

Here is the entrance to the campsites with the ablutions on the left. It looks rough and ready but it was clean and had a donkey boiler.

And our campsite:

The game viewing area is relatively small but it does have a variety of habitats to explore.

Since we had a late afternoon and early morning there, we were unable to explore fully. However we did manage to travel north to see all the dams. Here are some of our photos from the time there – mainly of birds seen.

White-breasted Cormorant and African Darter

And then there were these splendid Violet-eared Waxbills.

It seemed like no sooner had we got there that we were leaving. In future we would consider a 3 nigh stay to have a couple of days to explore more fully. In the short time we were there we recorded 55 different bird species.

Marakele

14 to 16 August 2023

Marakele National Park falls into two parts separated by a tunnel under a road heading north south. The campsite is on the western side of the park.

Bontle Campsite is shown in the left image. In the right image the road heading north near the entrance separates the two parts of the park. Ndlopfu Drive passes through the tunnel from the camping area heading to the Lenong Viewpoint up a steep and very narrow road. At the top you have an incredible view of the surrounding area.

The campsite is well kept with clean ablutions and hot water. The campsites all have power. There is also a pool.

Once we set up camp we had that afternoon and one full day to look around. We spent the first afternoon on the western side. The habitat was very dry and dusty. Not surprisingly there were few animals about.

The following day we headed to the tunnel to take Ndlopfu Drive to go to the Lenong Viewpoint. As we got close to the tunnel, we let another vehicle pass. It too was headed our way. When we arrived at the tunnel, we saw that they had stopped immediately after the tunnel, and we wondered why. As we exited the tunnel we realised they had waited for us to come through.

And the reason why became apparent. Lionesses were trotting up the road ahead which quickly disappeared into the bush. Not far, further along, we bumped into five Buffalos scampering through the bush beside us. A little further White Rhinos were grazing on a hillside.

Then came the drive up the narrow and steep road to the summit. Wide enough for one car with the odd area where the road had been widened to allow two cars, coming in opposite directions, to pass.

And then we got to the top. Windy and cool. Great views all round.

The only birds we saw at the top was a small gathering of Cape Vultures

Coming down:

On the way down!

On the way down, near the bottom, elephants off to our lower side. Not bad seeing some special species considering we saw few other animals! Followed by a Kudu and yet more White Rhinos. And on one of them a Nosepecker!!

And here are some photos we took of other animals and birds in the time we were in Marakele.

Male (top) and Female Bennett’s Woodpecker below

And so ended our time in Marakele. In total we identified 49 bird species. And then we were on our way to Blouberg.

Blouberg

16 to 19 August 2023

Leaving Marakele, the GPS indicated it was a mere 200 kms to Blougberg. It was right of course, but we assumed that was the travel distance. Not so. As the crow flies it is 200 kms.

Arriving later than we intended, we quickly set up camp.

The campsite has six sites. Three close to the ablutions and three privately set away in the bush. The campsites in the bush are huge and could easily cater for at least a party of three caravans. We chose campsite 3 in the bush. The ablutions were fairly basic and could do with a facelift. Sometimes they were quite dark inside and you need to knock to find out if anyone was inside as the doors were always kept closed to keep out the aminals.

Here is a map of the roads you can travel on in Blouberg.

**The campsite is shown as Molope Camp on the map.** **Near the Main Gate – top right.**

We had two full days in Blouberg. We planned to visit the Vulture Colony (number 34/35 on the map – bottom left) driving along the southern fence line from the office. However, we were told that road was closed due to earlier rain. We had no intention of using the alternative over Rapanyana’s Neck because the last time we went, the road was so rocky that it took us over 2 hours to get there in our 4×4!

The Vulture Colony is on the other side of the mountain. To reach it from this side you need to take a trek up the unpathed hillside when there is an organised outing. It is long and arduous we understand.

There are three other places which, for us, were well worth several visits – The Vulture Restaurant, Buffelpan Hide and the Fig Forest.

Driving around we also found what looked like another “Restaurant” where we found Cape Vultures devouring a Giraffe.

The Vulture Restaurant had numerous old carcasses but no vultures. Methinks, they were waiting for fresher meat. As you can see from the above photos, the reserve was very dry and dusty.

The Baobabs were aplenty – huge and majestic. At one you are allowed out to take photos.

The Fig Forest and the Buffelpan Hide were the standout places to visit.

Buffelpan Hide is a low level hide – almost at water level. The pan level was low at the time we visited.

**Buffelpan Hide. This is a wide angle photo so the water appears further away than it actually is.**

Because the water level was low there were very large catfish easily seen wiggling about.

It is a place where there is a lot of activity. Animals come and go all the time.

And the Kudu were unusually in numbers. Some with majestic horns. All coming for a drink. The most skittish were the Wildebees and Zebras.

Like the last time we visited, Mountain Reedbucks – with their shaggy coats – also came to drink. Sadly one was blind in one eye, and another had a snare around its body. (We made management aware of the snare). Here are some photos of the Mountain Reedbucks.

And then there were the birds:

And the best for last – The Fig Tree Forest. It is not a big area but the bird life was great.

You are permitted to walk around the trail – easily done in 5 minutes but we took over an hour.

Such a variety of birds were seen in the bush, trees and on the ground. There were Robins, Robin-Chats (even an RCRC bird – Red-capped Robin-Chat which we thought unusual), Waxbills, Honeyguides, Bulbuls, Greenbuls, Green Woodhoopoes, Scimitarbills, Doves, Orioles, Pytilia, Kingfisher, Guineafowl, Mousebirds, Thrushes, Puffbacks, Weavers and more. It reminded us of a KZN coastal forest.

We would willingly go back here just for the Hide and the Fig Forest.

And then it was time to leave. As I was driving out of the campsite, Sally stopped me. And there on our left were a family of Retz’s Helmetshrikes. What a way to go!