After the Umlalazi weekend outing (some photos shown at the end of this report), Sally and I headed north to Bahati Game Farm. Here we camped for five nights. Bahati is very close to Bonamanzi – about half a kilometre on the opposite side to Bonamanzi heading to Hluhluwe town.
A chance remark to my sister resulted in Sally and I being invited to join her in the TEBA Cottage at the very mouth of Kosi Bay Estuary for four nights. We had a couple of days to prepare for our trip.
A long way to go for four nights so Sally organised for us to have three nights in Mkuze on the way back – staying in the hutted camp accommodation.
We prolonged the forecast six hour journey by taking a longcut through Phinda on the district road. Instead of turning off the N3 at Hluhluwe we went on a further 20 kms and took the Phinda off ramp to the Phinda reserve entrance and because we were passing through there was no charge.
The 30 km dirt rode through the reserve enabled us to see aminals and birds. Towards the end of the road we encountered a pair of Cheetahs lying in the shade with their legs protruding onto the road. We stopped (although strictly speaking they suggest as we were passing through not to do so in case of trouble). The Cheetahs took little notice of us and stayed put. An pleasant and unexpected start to our trip.
My sister had organised our entry permits for us so we were able to pass quickly through the gate and proceed down to the TEBA Cottage at the river mouth.
The cottage is rustic. Three bedrooms, two bathrooms (one with shower the other with a bath), large kitchen, dining room and a deck with panoramic views across the bay. Yes hot water in the kitchen and for the bath as well as the basins in the bedrooms. No electricity, just a generator powering batteries for lights and the fridges and freezers. That said, it was a privilege to stay there. No neighbours and the bay in front of us.
TEBA Cottage
View from the Deck
View out to sea
Fish Traps
View of the fish traps
View upstream from the cottage
Looking seaward from the cottage beach
Tide is in
Tide is out
Seaward View
Each morning, up early and into the coastal forest – following the sandy road to the cottage- listening and trying to spot the many birds present. Getting good sightings was very tricky and many of the birds we identified were by ear – Sally’s mostly.
Thick Coastal Forest
There were Green Malkoha, Black-throated Wattle-eyes, White-starred Robins, Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatchers, Grey and Olive Sunbirds, Dark-backed Weavers, Black-backed Puffbacks, Southern Boubou, Natal Robins, Crowned and Trumpeter Hornbills, Rudd’s Apalis, Sombre and Yellow-bellied Greenbuls, Terrestial Brownbuls, Brown Scrub-Robins all adding their sounds to the bush.
Black-throated Wattle-eye
Olive Sunbird
Yellow White-eye
Olive Sunbird
Green Malkoha (Banana Bill)
Green Malkoha
Green Malkoha – the tail is probably longer than its body.
Of course there were many butterflies too – which we have been unable to identify.
Common Evening Brown
Variable Diadem
Common Mother-of-pearl
The weather was kind to us – not too hot and cool at night. Mossies were few and far between. A lot of time was spent on the beach and wading up the estuary looking for birds.
A group of waders on one of the sand strips – the tide was out – caught our attention.
About 20 Waders
Through the scope we decided that we needed to get closer to confirm our ID. A long distance photo confirmed our ID. Then I decided to wade out to get closer. As it happened a group of people got too close to the group and they flew landing on the same sand strip that I was on. I took my photos and then they flew up the coast towards Mozambique.
Chestnut-banded Plovers
Here are some photos of other water birds we sighted in and around the estuary.
Giant Kingfisher
Grey Heron
Lesser Crested Tern
Little Egret
Striated Heron
Striated Heron
White-breasted Cormorant
White-fronted Plover
Fish seemed to be plentiful for the locals – perhaps their methodology was unusual.
Spear Fisherman with a plentiful catch of rather small fish.
A walk the other side of the estuary southwards along the coast with my sister, Natasha and Sally also gave us an unexpected surprise. My sister spotted shoals of fish riding in the waves and then she spotted a Loggerhead Turtle doing the same. In the end we had three more sightings of others doing the same.
Right at the bottom of the stairs leading down to the beach from the cottage there were several large trees which had collapsed into the sea due to corrosion. A the base of one of these lived an eel. Very colourful – bright yellow with dark markings – seen several times.
And in the water at the base of a tree there was a Lion Fish. On one morning it swam around in the sunlight enabling me to get a few nice photos of it.
Lion Fish
Lion Fish
Lion Fish
Our bird list was not prolific and many of the bush birds were identified by sound. In the end we identified a total of 48 different species. Click here to see the list.
Mkhuze
After four relaxing days at Kosi, Sally and I headed for three nights at Mkhuze staying in the hutted accommodation. We had two full days to explore the Reserve and visit the hides.
As an aside, if you plan to visit, be careful at night as the hutted camp is not secure. We were told that the previous week a lion was seen around the nearby cottages
We did see an elephant as it walked past the Masinga Hide without popping in to disturb the other aminals there. Other than that we encountered only the usual zebra, giraffe, nyala, impala, warthogs, gnus, baboons and monkeys.
Lone elephant at KuMasinga Hide
Of course Masinga Hide is always worthwhile to see aminals and birds.
Baboons enjoying the early morning sun
I’m thirsty
Nyala Male posturing
Two Nyala males locking horns
Two Nyala males locking horns
Three little piggies went to…….water
Burchell’s Zebra in repose
Could you do this?
And some of the birds seen there.
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Colourful Cape Glossy Starling
Hadada Ibis
Hmmm….Quelea?
Reb-billed Oxpecker enjoying a bath
Red-billed Oxpecker
Thick-billed Weaver
Yellow-throated Petronia
Yellow-throated Petronia
The campsite is a good place to see birds and we were not let down when we went there. Here a few of the specials we saw there.
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Southern Boubou
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
Malibali Hide – near the campsite – was full and we enjoyed the new hide. This time however it was relatively quiet but again we had a few specials to see.
Blue Waxbills
Green-winged Pytilia female with Red-billed Firefinch
Green-winged Pytilia
Green-winged Pytiliae
Driving around the bird life was patchy in places yet we did manage to see a wide variety of different species which we had not see at any of the hides.
African Cuckoo-Hawk
African Stonechat
Black-winged Kite
Crested Francolin
Crested Guineafowl
Crowned Hornbill
Crowned Hornbill munching a wasp nest
Dark-backed Weaver
Little Bee-eater
Red-billed Oxpecker
AHV of a Southern Black Tit
White-backed Vultures
White-crested Helmet-Shrike
Wire-tailed Swallow
Yellow-billed Hornbill
Yellow-throated Longclaw
The second hide to the right of the picnic site at Nsumo Pan is another of our favourite hides except when the wind is blowing. Fortunately the weather was kind to us when we visited. Here are some views from the hide.
A distance shot of an African Fish-Eagle
On arrival we were treated to a sight we had not expected. Looking out to the left there were pairs of Little Grebes, African Pygmy Geese and White-backed Ducks. And as we scanned the pan there were at least another 20 African Pygmy Geese and about 8 White-backed Ducks. In the past we would have been lucky to see just one pair of African Pygmy Geese.
African Jacana were on the lily pads, a Malachite Kingfisher put on a show, Whiskered Terns were seen all across the pan. And on the far side many other water birds could be seen.
African Jacana
African Jacana
African Pygmy Geese
African Pygmy Goose
African Pygmy Goose
Little Grebe
Little Grebe
Malachite Kingfisher
African Pygmy Geese
Whiskered Tern
Whiskered Tern
White-backed Ducks, African Pygmy Geese and a Reed Cormorant
White-backed Ducks
On the shore line heading towards the Picnic site we spotted several Water Thick-knees and what appeared to be a three legged Black-winged Stilt – 2 red legs and one straw coloured!! All close to the African Fish-Eagle which was occupied on a meal.
African Fish-Eagle focussed on its meal
African Fish-Eagle with a full crop and checking us out.
Three legged Black-winged Stilt
Water Thick-knees
The picnic site at Nsumo Pan is also one of our favourite places to visit especially for a tea and pee break. Birding is also good normally. And the day we visited was our lucky day – very special.
On the way in an African Paradise Flycatcher welcomed us.
African Paradise Flycatcher
Hippos greeted us bobbing up and down among the lily pads close to shore.
Hippo
Hippo
Pink-backed Pelicans and Yellow-billed Storks flew overhead.
Pink-backed Pelican
Yellow-billed Storks
Western Cattle Egrets were fishing from Hippo perches. And even a Grey Heron took its chances.
Grey Heron and Cattle Egrets atop of Hippos
Cattle Egret
Even the bush around the picnic site had some interesting birds.
Bearded Scrub-Robin
Bearded Scrub-Robin
Natal Robin (aka Red-capped Robin-Chat)
It was only as we were leaving that Sally heard a Sunbird calling. When we found it we both were thrilled by what we saw.
Neergaard’s Sunbird
Neergaard’s Sunbird
On one afternoon drive we returned quite late and driving up from the kuMahlahla hide, we encountered several Spotted Thick-knees as well as Fiery-necked Nightjars.
The Thick-knees I managed to get a few reasonable photos. But I lost out big time with the Fiery-necked Nightjar. There was one sitting on a bare branch right beside the driver’s side of the car. Quickly I put my camera onto Auto and took a shot. Flash goes off bouncing off the inside of the car. Rats. The bird is still there so I try again. This time the flash works perfectly but the bird flew off as the camera took focus. Later I checked the photo and it was a perfect shot of the branch – if only the bird had stayed.
Spotted Thick-knee
Sad photo of the Fiery-necked Nightjar
Spotted Thick-knee
Zululand birding is always full of pleasant surprises. The variety is plentiful. We love going to visit the many different habitats.
In all we recorded 122 birds – identified for Bird Lasser. Click here to see the list.
Friends of ours (Arthur and Rose Douglas) suggested we join them and their two friends (Rodney and Myra) for eight nights in the Kgalagadi. They had space in Polentswa for six nights and two nights in Rooiputs (both unfenced campsites on the Botswana side of the Park).
We decided to go and then return through the Northern Cape and Karoo to find both the Red and Sclater’s Larks which neither of us had seen.
Our program: a stopover at the River of Joy campsite and then spend two nights at Mokala on the way to Twee Rivieren before joining our friends at Polentswa. Afterwards to drive to Brandvlei for three nights and finally three nights at Gariep Dam before returning home.
On the first part of our journey we avoided the Van Reenen’s Pass and took the more scenic route via Oliviershoek Pass. We arrived early at River of Joy near Bloemfontein and set up our off-road caravan in time for a short stroll around the camp before the rains set in. And they set in for the whole night. The ground was fortunately grassy but very soggy in the morning but the rain had stopped. The sole bird of note was the back view of a Gabar Goshawk near the river.
Gabar Goshawk
The next day we arrived at Mokala very early so that we could have time to explore the Park. Weather was variable – some sun, cool and mainly cloudy with threats of possible rain.
Cumulus
Monkey face in the clouds
The sunlight through the clouds had amazing lighting effects on the scenery.
Bright sunlight on the hillside amid the stormy background.
We did see two of the big five animals – a large herd of Buffaloes and a few White Rhinos. Again with strange sunlight casting this Buffalo with a red hue.
Old boy right next to us and checking us out.
Mokala has a very wide range of antelope – abundant and visible. Here are some of the variety that we saw.
Red Hartebeest
Red Hartebeest
Roan
Springbok
Black Springbok
Tsessebe
Tsessebe
Young Springbok
Black Wildebeest
Grey Duiker
Gemsbok
Oryx
There were also a multitude of birds despite the windy, cool and wet weather.
Horn-headed Helmeted Guineafowl
Kalahari Scrub-Robin
Black-chested Prinia
Lesser Grey Shrike
Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah
Mystery Cisticola
Mystery Lark
Northern Black Korhaan – calling all over
Red-billed Firefinch
Red-billed Firefinch
Sabota Lark
Scaly-feathered Weaver
Southern Grey-headed Sparrow
Spike-heeled Lark
A pair of Spike-heeled Larks
Ant-eating Chat
Black-chested Snake-Eagle
Black-throated Canary
Booted Eagle
Capped Wheatear
Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler
Jacobin Cuckoo
Magnificent Black-chested Snake-Eagle
Kgalagadi Polentswa and Rooiputs
Dry weather prevailed during our long journey to Twee Rivieren where we spent the night before heading up to Polentswa the following day
The distance from Twee Rivieren to Polentswa is close to 200 kms – so another long day of driving through the Park.
The main observation was the extreme dryness compared to the same time last year and as a result a paucity of animals and birds. No sign of cats the whole way. Very unusual.
Same time last year the Park was much greener and sometimes waterlogged.
Landscape
Desert Road
Sociable Weavers’ nest
Stopping at Nossob for fuel, provisions and to fill up the trailer with water, Sally went to the Bird Hide to check if there was anything of interest to see. All was desert and deserted.
Rocky at Nossob Hide
Nossob campsite
We did photo a few interesting birds along the way;
what bird is this?
Lanner Falcon – sub-adult
Marico Flycatcher
Eventually we arrive at Polentswa and set up camp alongside our friends.
Arrival sign
Grassland around the camp – excellent lion camouflage
Our campsite – three off-road campervans
There is a waterhole nearby and it was one of the few with water – piped in. This is where we were treated to our daily show of Wildebeest and Springbok;
Rocky at the Polentswa waterhole.
Some of the animals using the waterhole.
Red Hartebeest
Springbok
Springbok
Gnus
Young Wildebeest
Menage a trois at the salt lick – we assume
At the salt lick – tete a tete.
Cape Turtle Doves in their hundreds first thing in the morning and late afternoon;
Cape Turtle- Doves
Black-backed Jackal hopeful of snatching a bird or two;
Black-backed Jackal – so cute
And at 09h30 the Sandgrouse arrive (Namaqua mainly and Burchell’s) – circling for ages before settling with their beady eyes open for a Lanner attack.
Sandgrouse arriving
Sandgrouse landing
Namaqua Sandgrouse – female
Namaqua Sandgrouse – male
Burchell’s Sandgrouse – male
Every day the Lanner Falcons were there – seemingly just hanging about but on occasion an abortive attempt was made to catch a Sandgrouse or Turtle-Dove.
The Lanners did not have everything their own way.
Lanner Falcon in trouble from a Black-winged Kite
Lanners were plentiful as were the Bateleurs with Greater Kestrels in the air above and the occasional Gabar Goshawk lurking about. Even Tawny Eagles made an appearance.
Lanner Falcon – sub-adult
Lanner Falcon – sub-adult
Bateleur female
Bateleur female
Tawny Eagle
Tawny Eagle
Lark-like Bunting
Larklike Bunting
Greater Kestrel
Gabar Goshawk note the white trailing edge to the wings
This Gabar flew and sat in a tree beside a Tawny Eagle. The comparison in size difference was astounding. In the above picture the Gabar looks huge but beside the Lanner it appeared less than half its size.
And sometimes a Lanner was spot-lit in the sun.
Lanner Falcon sunbathing
The campsite was also a good source of birds as you might expect – especially as we put out water for them. It was also full of incidents. Late night animals, birds close up, snakes, fire and lions.
Every night we had a large fire which we sat around and had dinner together. It was a time when out of nowhere there would suddenly appear – less that 10 metres from us – a Black-backed Jackal, a Spotted Hyena or a Cape Fox. Many nights we heard the Lions calling – we assumed from a distance although they were getting closer.
At midday, we usually gathered together to enjoy the shade of the A Fame and shoot the breeze. Water was put out on the far side of the A Frame giving us a close-up view as the birds flocked in for desperately needed water. And from our vantage point we were able to get photos of them.
Cape Sparrow
Green-winged Pytilia
Mixture of Weavers, Finches, Sparrows
Red-headed Finch
Red-headed Finch
Violet-eared Waxbill
Yellow Canary
Bath time for the Cape Turtle Dove with friends.
Even some non-feathered friends came for a drink.
Striped Mouse
Agama ?
Two quite similar birds were our constant companions at the A Frame, under our chairs and pecking at the ants. In the end we believe we have identified them correctly.
Fawn-coloured Lark
Fawn-coloured Lark
Fawn-coloured Lark
Fawn-coloured Lark
Kalahari Scrub-Robin
Kalahari Scrub-Robin
Others seen around the campsite:
Greater Kestrels
Greater Kestrels
Striped Mouse
Crowned Lapwing
Snakes. An almost 2 metre Cape Cobra slithered across the A Frame in front of us – not stopping for a drink – and headed for my car. Fortunately it took a turn up a tree beside the car. We have no idea when it left but I moved my car away smartly.
The other incident could have had serious consequences. Sally was preparing some food at our campervan kitchen. I then washed up in the same area. As I was putting the pots back in the cupboard I happened to look down at the stool I was standing on. Through the holes I saw something odd.
So I lifted up the stool to find a rather large – fortunately dopey- Puff Adder all curled up against the tyre. Sally and my feet were literally inches from it from time to time.
Puff Adder
With help from some other campers we were able to get a spade under it and flick it outside the campsite. This took some effort because the snake kept trying to scamper its way back to what was obviously the coolest place to cool down.
Lion youngsters
Lion
Lion inspecting Wilhelm’s vehicle.
Lion close-up
Then there were the Lions. Three playful youngsters. They were heard calling early one morning and everyone in the three different campsites set out (by car) to find them. We were tail-end Charlie. Following the paw prints on the road past our camp, the others soon came across the three youngsters.
When we caught up the entourage of cars were coming back towards us following the youngsters along the road back towards the camps. A couple of them were quite boisterous, stretching themselves on trees and chasing each other.
Eventually they entered one of the camps and found a rubber mat to play with. This was our only sighting of Lions except for an old collared male on our way out of the Park. One even left a landmine on the road.
Sally and I had never been up to Union’s End in the number of times we had visited the Park so we decided to have a drive – some 70 kms north of Polentswa. It was marginally greener but really not by much.
Waterhole heading north
Sociable Weavers’nests
Union’s End waterhole
Scenery
How far and in which direction to the neighbouring capitals
On the way we were fortunate to see a female Pygmy Falcon atop a tree over the road. And unexpectedly a Lilac-breasted Roller. A large family of Ostriches were seen along with Capped Wheatears and a Lesser Grey Shrike.
Capped Wheatear
Lesser Grey Shrike
Lilac-breasted Roller
Lilac-breasted Roller
A family of Ostriches
A family of Ostriches
Otherwise the drive was uneventful until we were arriving at the Lijersdraai picnic site. I ran over a stick missing either end. Except it was a Puff Adder unhurt.
Puff Adder
Escaping
The Kousant waterhole just south of Polentswa had a leaking water tank – perhaps intentionally so. The birds loved it as the tank had encroaching scrubby trees around it.
Black-chested Prinia, Cape Glossy Starling, a Chat-Flycatcher and a Marico Flycatcher all made an appearance. But there was one bird – a Warbler that had us mulling over for ages until we finally identified it.
Black-chested Prinia
Black-chested Prinia
Black-chested Prinia
Cape Glossy Starling
Chat-Flycatcher
Marico Flycatcher
Icterine Warbler
Icterine Warbler
Icterine Warbler
There was one other incident at the Polentswa campsite which was finally resolved at Rooiputs. It had our other two male friends Arthur and Rodney speculating as to what could be causing this phenomenon over each campfire dinner. And it revolved around the fire itself. Strange colourful flames. Not every night though.
Why
How
Mesmerising
Foxy
Imponderable
Our beer cans burnt to dust each night.
First it must have been the wood itself – or a chemical inside. Same wood next night – no colourful flames. Perhaps it was the paint on the cans burning. Other hypotheses were expressed but it remained a mystery until our last night at Rooiputs.
Finally our six nights at Polentswa were over and we were on our way south to Rooiputs. Along the way there was not much out of the ordinary except that the herd numbers were less than normal and were few and far between. We did however have a reasonable sighting of a Brown Hyena running across the Nossob River; White-backed Vultures and a Secretarybird.
White-backed Vulture
Brown Hyena
Secretarybird
Secretarybird
Rooiputs only has six campsites – each distantly apart. Unfenced so risky to use the outside Loo and Shower after dusk.
L to R: Arthur, Rose, Rodney and Myra
Rose happy snapping
Arthur the fire master
Every night we heard the roar of the King of the Jungle. His spoor was found around the camp shower each morning.
And of course during our final fire the flames took on their extraordinary colours again. Arthur and Rodney continued their speculation until I put them out of their misery. I handed them a packet each of Mystical Fire which I had sneaked into the fires on several occasions on the pretext of adding rubbish to be burnt.
Left the loo, right the shower area.
Eventually we saw the Lion on our way out – an old boy with a collar.
Collared Lion
Campsite birds were not as friendly as those in Polentswa but we still managed a pic or two.
Red-eyed Bulbul
Sociable Weaver
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver
Yellow-billed Hornbill
Groundscraper Thrush
During our short time at Rooiputs our birding was limited not only by time but also the dryness of the Park. Despite that we did have one interesting sighting.
Bateleur
Large rodent.
Common Ostrich
Pale Chanting Goshawk immature
A loving pair of Slender Mongooses
A loving pair of Slender Mongooses
A loving pair of Slender Mongooses
A loving pair of Slender Mongooses
Southern Fiscal female
Southern Fiscal female. The white eyebrow stripe is common in the western part of RSA.
Our unusual incident were strange sightings in a Scaly-feathered Weaver’s nest.
The skeleton of an animal head with horns and a backbone.Up close of the animal’s head and horns.
And round the side of the nest, this – whatever it is?
About 30 to 40 cms long. Any ideas?
And here are a few birds which had us pondering over their ID. We think our IDs are right but are not 100% positive. The first: a Chat Flycatcher (undersides not white enough for a Marico but the white wing bar is confusing).
The Second. Also Chat Flycatcher. Same concerns as above.
Click here to see our bird list for the Park. In all …………….birds were identified.
Brandvlei
Brandvlei is a very small town in the middle of Northern Cape Province about 250 kms south of Uppington.
According to Birdfinder is is highly rated and both Red and Sclater’s Larks can be seen there – our goal as neither of us had seen either before.
Early afternoon we arrived at our campsite – Casablanca on the outskirts of town. Rui welcomed us and knew we were birders. It seems many people from around the world stay with him to bird the area. He gave us directions to find the Red Lark close to town.
CasablancaEntering Brandvlei
Fortunately we misunderstood his directions and instead of going about a kilometre we travelled six kilometres down the road looking for the first gate which was open on our left. As it happens we hit paydirt as we entered. A Red Lark flew across our bows and perched closeby. We scrambled out and followed it deeper into the property getting glimpses of it. Eventually it called – very unique call – then flew and perched on a scrub that enabled me to take a photo.
Red Lark
Red Lark
Red Lark
Red Lark
Red Lark
The weather was overcast and windy for the next two days while searching for the Sclater’s Lark. This time we followed Birdfinder’s route along the R357.
We had hardly left town when Sally spotted one right next to us as we drove past. Unfortunately it did not hang around for me to get a good look at it.
We enjoyed the birding along the route – dry open land with an occasional clump of trees usually beside a water trough.
Countryside
Waterhole
About 16 kms along the R357 we came to a trough about 100 metres off the road. We pulled onto the side and watched from the fence – with binoculars and scope.
Distant waterhole
We waited and waited watching the the trough and the variety of Canaries and Sparrows which came to drink.
Rocky and Paul
Rocky and Sally
Rocky
Then two Sclater’s Larks came and drank together. Through the scope it was clear what they were. Photographically the shots were very poor but looking carefully one can make out the face markings.
Sclater’s Larks
Sclater’s Larks
Sclater’s Larks
Sclater’s Larks
The next day we went back to the same trough and saw another clearly through the scope. Sorry about the pictures.
Sclater’s Lark
Sclater’s Lark
Sclater’s Lark
Sclater’s Lark
Sclater’s Lark
Sclater’s Lark
Of course there were other species which we enjoyed – Spike-heeled and Karoo Long-billed Larks, Karoo Korhaan, Double-banded Courser, Pririt Batis, White-throated Canaries, Namaqua Sandgrouse, white-backed Mousebirds, Yellow Canaries and Cape Sparrows to name a few.
Bokmakierie
Yellow Canary and Southern Red Bishops
Double-banded Courser
Double-banded Courser
Karoo Korhaan
Karoo Korhaan
Karoo Korhaan
Karoo Korhaan
Karoo Korhaans
Karoo Long-billed Lark
Karoo Long-billed Lark
White-throated Canary
Namaqua Sandgrouse
Pririt Batis
South African Shelduck – not what we expected to see
Spike-heeled Lark
Spike-heeled Lark
Spike-heeled Lark
Sun Squirrel
White-backed Mousebird
White-backed Mousebird
Yellow and White-throated Canaries and Cape Sparrows
On the way back to camp five Bat-eared Foxes raced along beside us. Lovely to see.
Bat-eared Fox
Another special sighting were the Rufous-eared Warblers – scurrying like mice from one clump of bush to the next.
Rufous-eared Warbler
Rufous-eared Warbler
Rufous-eared Warbler
Severe thunderstorms were all round us on the last afternoon. Rui told us that the last rain that they had was last December – 4 mm only. He offered us a room for the night in the house as he believed that we could be in for a battering – rain, wind and hail. We considered this for 30 minutes until we saw thunder and lightning
Hiding from the storm
Then we raced to get the campervan packed up. As we entered the house 30 minutes later the rain started – and it rained heavily all night. Power went off but we had the comfort of a very unusual home. Very old worldly. Old tims in the kitchen above the Aga, old-fashioned clothing hanging on the walls including corsets and dresses, piles of magazines from the 50s and 60s. Real character. Wonderful place to stay.
The next day we left early for Gariep Dam. The GPS wanted us to use the main gravel roads. After all the rains I think we wisely decided to take the long way round heading south for Calvinia and then across to Gariep Dam – probably 150 to 200 kms further but all on tar.
Gariep Dam
View from Chalet
First it was south towards Calvinia in very overcast and threatening weather. Unusual double rainbows were seen.
Colours of one rainbow are inverse of the other
The first two hours we experience a little rain now and then. The next five hours it rained constantly and sometimes severely.
The fields were sodden and full of standing water.
On arrival at the Forever Resort in Gariep we decided not to camp but to enjoy the luxury of a Chalet (views above) for the next three nights.
The area was picturesque and birding varied in the different habitats.
We visited the camp’s game park. Small, but it had a busy wetland pond – with many water birds as well as others enjoying the standing water.
Wetland Pond
There we had views of a sub-adult African Fish-Eagle, Cape Shovelers, Cape and Red-billed Teals, Goliath Heron, Layard’s Tit-Babbler, Mountain Wheatear, Yellow-billed Egret, Yellow-crowned Bishops, Common Waxbills, Common Moorhen, Little Grebe, Red-knobbed Coots to name a few.
African Fish-Eagle sub-adult
Cape Shoveler
Cape Teal
A dishevelled Goliath Heron
Layard’s Tit-Babbler
Mountain Wheatear
Yellow-billed Egret
Yellow-crowned Bishops.
Layard’s Tit-Babbler
During our time there we visited the Dam itself and drove along the rocky shoreline back to the resort. And we visited the Gariep Dam Game Park as well as walking around the resort.
Several views of the Dam.
On the way back to the resort we stopped at a look-out point and had good views of a Black-chested Prinia and a Short-toed Rock-Thrush.
Black-chested Prinia
Short-toed Rock-Thrush
In the Game Park we managed to see three Game – a Wildebeest, three Reedbuck and a Yellow Mongoose.
Yellow Mongoose
However the birdlife on the dam’s edge was prolific in several areas. Hundreds of Egyptian Geese dominated. Waders were present – Three-banded, Kittlitz’s and White-fronted Plovers as well as Capped Wheatears, Blacksmith Lapwings and the water birds we had seen at the wetland pond.
Other birds were also seen in the Game Park including:
Fiscal Flycatcher
White-backed Mousebird
Lark-like Bunting
Lark-like Buntings
In total 151 different bird species were identified. Click here to see our combined bird lists and where each was identified
It was time to get away – you could say the lure of the bush was calling. This time a short trip – 4 nights in Mkuze and a couple in St. Lucia.
Rain and overcast conditions followed us and remained intermittently at both venues.
Mkuze was lush- the vegetation was green and grown up. There were no bare patches to be seen unlike the last time we visited in July 2018. The Fig Forest was flooded from rains upstream and consequently Nsumo Pan was as full as we had ever seen. Despite that only two inland hides had water (KuMasinga and Malibali) and all of the other scattered pans and wallows were dry.
Nsumo Pan was one of the first places we visited. We stopped at the first hide heading towards the Nsumo Pan Picnic site. As we approached we noticed what looked like two ducks in the shadows under the hide. However they were something entirely different and most unexpected.
African Pygmy-Goose – male and female
African Pygmy-Goose – male
African Pygmy-Goose – female
African Pygmy-Goose – male
With the water level so high there were no waders about at Nsumo Pan.
However there were a number of waterbirds about at Nsumo hides and at the Picnic site.
African Jacana
African Jacana
African Fish-Eagle
Pink-backed Pelican
Squacco Heron
Squacco Heron
Squacco Heron
Common Sandpiper
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Woodland Kingfisher
Western Osprey
Reed Cormorants and African Darter
As expected, Kumasinga hide was busy. Many animals as well as birds close-by – making for reasonable photographic opportunities considering the sunless skies. A number of birds appeared with confusing ID issues which made it all the more interesting trying to get to their correct ID. One bird in particular – a Sunbird – was an interesting example of this.
Perplexing Sunbird
What we saw immediately was a Sunbird with a distinct bib and yellow Mylar stripes either side of the bib. A quick look at the Roberts App suggested a Plain-backed Sunbird – and its plain back also seemed to confirm that.
Sunbird with a plain back
It was feeding what we considered to be a fledgling so we considered it to be an adult bird despite its yellow gape.
However a Plain-backed Sunbird would be a rare sighting in Mkuze so it did not feel quite right. We checked the Roberts App for pictures of Sunbirds and nothing had the bib except for the Plain-backed Sunbird. The new Roberts Field Guide eventually gave us the correct ID by showing a picture of a juvenile male Marico Sunbird. It shows that sometimes initial impressions can be so wrong.
The antics of birds and animals were a pleasure to watch. Burchell’s Coucals chasing each other, Little Bee-eaters and Swallows coming in for a drink or a bath, Red-billed Oxpeckers having a communal bath spraying drops of water over each other, Giraffes drinking, a Slender Mongoose casing the joint and many birds just coming to the water’s edge for a drink. One oddity were the Red-billed Oxpeckers. There were at least 20 present all the time. They never left with the animals but hung around for their next feed. We tried to work out if the animals not only came for a drink but also for a clean up. Or was it that the Oxpeckers hung around because they knew they were on to a good thing. Perhaps both options.
Burchell’s Coucal
Burchell’s Coucal
Burchell’s Coucal
Burchell’s Coucal
Common and Blue Waxbills
Dusky Indigobird
Giraffe
Giraffe
Red-billed Oxpecker – bathtime
Red-billed Oxpecker
Golden-breasted Bunting
Little Bee-eater
Southern Red Bishop female
Pin-tailed Whydah
Wood Sandpiper
Yellow-fronted Canry
Slender Mongoose
But there was one bird which appeared unexpectedly.
Dwarf Bittern
Yes, a Dwarf Bittern up high in a tree. Wonderful sighting.
Of course there were camp birds. We were greeted by a pair of singing Striped Kingfishers. As the sun set, the Little Swifts serenaded us. However because of the weather the camp was quiet.
Striped Kingfisher
Mocking Cliff-Chat
White Frog
White-browed Scrub-Robin
It was on the Loop road where we saw the most raptors and an unexpected one at that as well as bushveld species.
Amur falcon
Wahlberg’s Eagle
Martial Eagle
Martial Eagle
Martial Eagle
Brown Snake-Eagle
Sabota Lark
Red-backed Shrike
Green-winged Pytilia
Green-winged Pytilia
European Bee-eaters
European Bee-eaters
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
Our last morning was spent at Malibali hide. And surprisingly the activity was as interesting as that at the Kumasinga hide. Now that there is water all sorts of creatures appear out of the woodwork.
Over a three hour period we saw three different elephants coming in for a drink and a splashing.
Elephant – drink’s time
The last sadly with a vicious snare wound (which the camp conservation team were aware of). The elephant had to be darted to remove the snare and to be given treatment. You can see from the photos how bad it looked. Fortunately it appears that the medicine is doing its work. It can walk normally and put weight on that leg. What was interesting was the elephant, having arrived with the would very visible, left with it fully coated in mud by the elephant to act as protection for the wound.
Snared Elephant
Snared Elephant
Snared Elephant swollen foot
Here are some of the other species photographed at the waterhole.
Water Thick-knee
Three-banded Plover
Red-billed Firefinch
Red-billed Firefinch
Namaqua Dove
Southern Masked-Weaver
Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah
Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah
Crested Francolin
Hammerkop
Then there was a full breakfast to be seen.
Western Cattle Egret enjoying a big breakfast
Our bird list for Mkuze can be seen later as it has been combined with our viewings at St. Lucia.
Our next destination was St. Lucia. The main purpose at St. Lucia was to enjoy the waterbirds seen at the mouth of the estuary and to try and find one or two of the special birds seen there earlier this year – Gull-billed Tern, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Lesser Frigatebird or the vagrant Noddy on the off chance.
St. Lucia weather was even more overcast and rainy than Mkuze. We took our chances when the heavens were not crying to walk the beach and explore the estuary. We managed to get out twice. On both visits we came across a small Tern roost in the estuary. Despite the numbers it was good to see the variety there – Little and Swift in numbers with Common, Lesser-Crested and Sandwich Terns among them. Even a Caspian appeared. However amongst the Terns and Gulls there was no sign of the Gull-billed Tern.
Mixed Terns
Common, Sandwich and Swift Terns
Sandwich, Lesser Crested and Swift Terns
Caspian Tern
Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters were feeding over the sand dunes. Not a sight we expected to see.
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
No sign of the Noddy – not a surprise as we know how fleetingly it was seen in the first place. And the Lesser Frigatebird did not make an appearance either. Fortunately we had seen it there on a previous visit.
Black Oystercatchers were seen on the beach water’s edge in the distance. Whenever we got close they moved on. Grey Plovers and Whimbrels were also present. On one occasion we saw a distant Black Oystercatcher with another smaller wader – we assumed either a Grey Plover or Whimbrel. Because it was so distant we did not pursue it and visited the Tern roost instead. After some time we left the roost and headed back to the beach to see if by chance we would have any luck spotting the Eurasian Oystercatcher.
The beach came into view and there was the Black Oystercatcher we had seen earlier. And with it the other smaller bird. Once we had our binoculars on it we realised it was the Eurasian Oystercatcher. As close as we came so they moved away. I managed to get a photo or two but it was a nightmare photographing into the sun.
Black and European Oystercatchers showing their size difference
Eurasian Oystercatcher
Eurasian Oystercatcher
Hooray – a lifer for me.
Sanderling
On our last – yes, rainy afternoon – we ventured into Eastern Shores – more for something to do than sitting around the camp in the intermittent rain. As expected both animals and birds were scarce but we persevered. Eventually we got to the Lake Bhangazi turnoff having explored most of the other loops on the way.
European Bee-eater
This drive is a 17 km drive back to the main road. Initially it passes through dune forest and onto a raised road between Lake Bhangazi and a wetland. This part of the road is also well forested and narrow. Coming round a corner I said to Sally “Look ahead”. She was scouring for the bird she thought I had seen. Only it wasn’t a bird but a magnificent creature lying alongside the road.
Leopard
Leopard
Leopard
Well worth the drive and a good way to end our trip. Our bird list for both Mkuze and St. lucia can be seen by clicking here. 135 species identified in Mkuze and 77 in St. Lucia.
As an engagement anniversary present to ourselves we went on a birding weekend at The Cavern with David and Sally Johnson.
The Cavern nestles against a forest habitat. It is located off the road to the Royal National Park, taking the first road right after passing the “Pizza Tower” and following it right to the end.
Accommodation was good with views over the grounds. Meals were sumptuous and food aplenty. The inner layout is a morass of TV rooms, lounges, dining areas, play rooms and bars scattered on three levels. Very charming.
Reception area
View down from Verandah
The Little Berg cliffs behind and the mist at last rising
View down
View from below
View from below
View from below
View down from Verandah
Conference Room for our talks
Entrance
The weather was not always in our favour, however we did manage to get in a reasonable amount of walks in and around the property and identified 88 different bird species. Click here to see our list. Note some of these birds were seen in the area but outside The Cavern property.
We left Howick on a chilly misty rainy morning expecting it to be the same on arrival. As fortune had it, we arrived in sunshine and spent an hour or so birding close to the main building. Most notably seeing several different Sunbirds feeding on the agapanthus flowers.
Greater Double-collared Sunbird – male
Greater Double-collared Sunbird – female
Lunch was a huge spread and you can be as indulgent as you like. We did try to be restrained – not easy.
After lunch we took a walk around the property on our own. The weather had changed and the clouds were becoming ominous. However we managed to get back before the rain/drizzle set in.
Fiscal Flycatcher
Fiscal Flycatcher
Black-backed Puffback
Greater Striped Swallow
Greater Striped Swallow
Olive Woodpecker
Forest Canary
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Later that afternoon David gave us a talk on “The Birds of the Cavern”. A very informative talk not only showing us what we might expect to see but also about their prefered habitats and behaviour.
A walk was planned for 06h30 the following morning but the rain and drizzle put a stop to that. After breakfast David gave us another exceptional talk. This time on the “Galapagos Islands”. Absolutely fascinating and had us all wanting to visit. The way the islands were formed; the effects on the islands of the two currents meeting – depending on which was dominant; the flora and fauna and how it developed. Did you know that the common Daisy flower transformed itself into a very tall tree on one of the islands!
After the talk there was a sort of respite in the rain and Sally and I took a chance to wander around the grounds set in layers down the hillside passed the pool and paddocks to the stream and ponds at the bottom.
Southern Boubou.- male with delicious meal for his female
Southern Boubou.- female
Southern Boubou.- female
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Pin-tailed Whydah chasing the females with no success it seemed
Pin-tailed Whydah chasing the females with no success it seemed
Leguaan chasing 2 Yellow-billed Ducks
Groundscraper Thrush
We did come across a butterfly which was interesting because of its “glass-like” wings.
Interesting Butterfly with a pair of see through wings.
Interesting Butterfly with a pair of see through wings.
After lunch David and Sally led us on a walk beyond the entrance. Another opportunity to see what we could find of interest.
One of the highlights on this walk was the Southern Double-collared Sunbird.
Southern Double-collared Sunbird also in the Agapanthus
Cape White-eye
Cape Batis
In the late afternoon David gave us another interesting talk – this time on the”Sex life of Birds”. Fascinating to understand the different behaviours towards mating.
The last morning we had an early morning walk round the property with David and Sally. Before we even started a Chorister Robin-Chat came into the tree above us.
Chorister Robin-Chat
At one pond we came across a Half-collared Kingfisher and three Malachite Kingfishers including a juvenile. Also present were two pairs of Little Grebes (one pair with 5 chicks) sometimes fighting for territory. A Yellow-billed Duck with her brood kept appearing and disappearing behind a fallen tree on the opposite side. And a pair of Mountain Wagtails made a brief appearance.
Half-collared Kingfisher
Half-collared Kingfisher
Half-collared Kingfisher
Half-collared Kingfisher
Little Grebe having a good shake
Little Grebes
Malachite Kingfisher – juvenile
Malachite Kingfisher – juvenile
Willow Warbler
Yellow-billed Duck
Further on we saw a Brown-hooded Kingfisher and at another pond a pair of Giant Kingfishers flew past. A day for Kingfishers. Then on the way back we saw a Diderick Cuckoo being fed by a female Southern Masked Weaver.
Diderick Cuckoo – juvenile
Diderick Cuckoo – juvenile
Diderick Cuckoo – juvenile being fed by a female Southern Masked Weaver
Simply sitting in the shade of one of the trees in front of the hotel, many birds appeared.
African Olive Pigeon
Red-winged Starling – female
Olive Thrush
Reed Cormorant
Mocking Cliff-Chat – male
Cape Crow
After breakfast Sally and I went for a walk – intending to go into the forest but ending up in the grasslands close to Jackal Hill. In the end a very long walk following the track upwards from just after the school on the left as you head away from the Cavern.
At the start we had good views of Cape White-eyes, Groundscraper Thrushes and a male Cape Rock-Thrush posing on an overhead wire.
Cape White-eye
Cape White-eye
Groundscraper Thrush
Cape Rock-Thrush
On the long walk up we saw a number of species we had not seen over the weekend. There were African Firefinch, a Common Buzzard and a male and female Malachite Sunbird.
Malachite Sunbird
Malachite Sunbird – female
Malachite Sunbird – female
Malachite Sunbird
Red-collared Widowbird
Red-collared Widowbird
African Firefinch
Common Buzzard
On the way down we encountered a pair of Mountain Reedbucks on the opposite slope playfully running up and down. A nice sight to see.
Mountain Reedbuck
Mountain Reedbuck
We also encountered Drakensberg Prinia, Wailing and Lazy Cisticolas.
Wailing Cisticola
Wailing Cisticola
Lazy Cisticola
Drakensberg Prinia
At the bottom the Cape Rock-Thrush family put on a show for us. Unfortunately the juvenile only made a fleeting appearance and I was unable to take its photo. A couple of other birds were also present.
Cape Rock-Thrush – male
Cape Rock-Thrush – female
Black-collared Barbet
Southern Masked Weaver
Eventually it was time to leave and despite the very overcast weather we had a most enjoyable time.
On the way out we did come across a number of additional species – some of which I was able to photograph. Most prominent were the Amur Falcons and occasional Lesser Kestrels.
Amur Falcon – female
Amur Falcon – male
The highlight, however, were three Southern Ground-Hornbills.
Southern Ground Hornbill
Southern Ground Hornbills
Southern Ground Hornbills
Southern Ground Hornbills
We are so pleased we also took the opportunity to explore a little of the area outside The Cavern.
African Paradise-Flycatcher with a rather long tail
Yellow-billed Kite
African Jacana off balance
The intention of this summary is to:
show you in one chart our birdlist for the entire Kruger and which birds we identified when based in each camp area.
comment on the birds we thought we might see but didn’t.
make comments on our time in the Park.
show you photos of the birds we could not identify.
show you photos of what we considered “Special” birds.
show you photos of animals we took.
show you photos which we considered to be of reasonable quality.
Despite the dryness of the Park we still identified a wide variety of birds in all 230 different species. Click here to see the total list of birds we identified in our stay in the Kruger also showing a summary of the birds we saw in the area of each camp.
Having said that, we were surprised not to identify any of the following:
Bishops*
Buzzards
Coots*
Falcons
Grebes Little*
Kestrels
Longclaws
Mannikins
Martins
Moorhens*
Pigeons Speckled
Saw-wings Black
Teals*
Terns*
Tinkerbirds
Weavers Village
White-eyes
* We attributed these particular missing birds due to the dryness of the Park.
Some Comments and Observations:
Our favourite camps were Lower Sabie in the South, Balule in the middle, Tsendze and Punda Maria in the north. And Malelane in the south as a gateway for both entering and leaving the Park.
Yellow-billed Oxpeckers have thrived in the north and now it is unusual to see a Red-billed Oxpecker on Giraffe or Buffalo.
Yellow-billed Oxpeckers have extended their range and it is not unusual to find them lower down at Tsendze.
It is about time that Punda Maria management bought a washing machine for their laundry.
The Deck at Lower Sabie gave us many interesting sightings not only of birds but interacting animals too.
The swimming pool at Shingwedzi was a real life saver.
Crocodile Bridge area looked like a desert – trees all knocked down, barren and dusty sadly
Unidentified Birds:
Of the birds we photographed there were two which we could not identify. Perhaps you can?? And there is one snake for ID please.
Mystery Dove with gills on its neck. Probable Nourning Collared Dove juvenile.
White-rumped Raptor
White-rumped Raptor
Blue Snake head
Blue Snake body
Special Birds:
The following photos are of birds that we considered to be special – either because they are hard to find or they are not birds we regularly see where we live or they show something about the bird..
Kori Bustard in all his majesty
White-headed Vulture
Pallid Harrier
Pallid Harrier
Retz’s Helmet-Shrike
White-crested Helmet-Shrike
Saddle-billed Stork juvenile less than 6 months old
Southern Ground-Hornbills
Squacco Heron well tanned and in a hurry
White-crowned Lapwing
Stierling’s Wren-Warbler
Swainson’s and his mate the Natal Spurfowl – nice to see the comparison