Birds are our Story

Saturday 23 May 2021

A Success Story

Sally and I took my sister, Natasha and her husband, Dick to the Oribi Cape Vulture Colony. The colony is situated on farm property. We booked the 2 hour session (09h00 to 11h00) through Andy Ruffle 072 893 3794.

As you drive through the cane fields you have no expectation of the gorge ahead. Even when you have parked you only have a short walk to the site and it is only when you get to the top of the cliff face that you realise that you are there. The colony is situated on a steep cliff face with panoramic views over and beyond.

We arrived with clouds blanketing the hills and valleys – a spectacular sight. The day was perfect – blue skies (a bit cool) and little wind. Gradually as Andy was telling us about the history of the site and the habits of the Cape Vultures, the clouds dispersed. It was only then that the Cape vultures started to test out the flying conditions.

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Jumping off the cliff face they hope to go straight into gliding mode. If the conditions are not suitable they return flapping strongly in the process. Once the conditions are right they are off to their feeding grounds – gliding all the way. They have no need to flap their wings accept on takeoff after feeding. Once in the air they need no energy to get home.

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Probably the most interesting feature of the birds is their wingspan – up to 2.6 metres. That is approximately a metre more than the length of your outstretched hands. Try it and see how impressive that is.

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Here are a few photos of a vulture returning to the cliff and one of the photos gives the impression that it is a vulture wall painting.

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About three decades ago the farmer encouraged the colony of about 30 Cape Vultures to flourish. Today there are 94 known pairs of Cape Vultures using the cliff face to breed. A highly successful program. This is attributed to the an increase in supply of food which mainly comes from the carcasses of animals living in the rural communities as well as new vulture restaurants.

The rural communities move dead animals away from their farming areas. They do not eat the meat fearing they too may become affected by whatever caused the animal’s death. And without people about the vultures thrive on the carcasses.

A new feeding station – vulture restaurant – was relatively recently started in Kamberg at a large pig farm. Pig carcasses mainly – which the Oribi Vultures sometimes visit.

The Oribi colony site also has a vulture restaurant and hide. Local farmers bring their carrion to the site for consumption by the vultures. Arrival of the carrion is not only erratic but whatever is brought is not there for long – a pig will be stripped bare in less than 7 minutes.

It is not only the Cape Vultures that have been seen at the site. Ruppell’s, White-backed, Palm-nut and Lappet-faced Vultures have also been recorded there infrequently. As yet the Bearded Vulture has not been reported despite the proximity to the Berg.

There is another larger colony of about 200 pairs of Cape Vultures further south – about 150 kms away in the Umtamvuma Valley region. On occasion the birds visit the Oribi vulture restaurant. On the whole both colonies appear to have their own feeding grounds.

Breeding season is currently underway. Each pair takes turn to sit on the eggs for about a day and a half at a time with nests often close together.

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Once in the air, they circle over the valley below.

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Occasionally they give you the eye ball by flying at eye height within metres of you.

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The Oribi Cape Vulture colony is thriving and is a must visit for everyone. We were all blown away seeing the spectacle of the vultures flying so close to us at eye height. Pictures only give an impression of the place. Visiting and experiencing it for yourself is mind-blowing – as my sister said.

A success story.

Go.

13th to 16th March 2021

It was time to get away from home and into the bush. Mkuze was our choice. Because our Afrispoor Caracal was not yet ready for collection, rest huts were our only cheap option. The campsite has been closed for a while – no water and it is currently totally overgrown. We wonder if it will ever be open again. There has been talk that the campsite may move to the unused soccer field right next to the main camp. Good option as water and power will be available. the downside will be the lack of shade.

Temperatures were high and the fans in the huts (we took one of our own) were necessary day and night – not much fun especially during the power cuts twice every day – 18h00 to 20h00 and 02h00 to 04h00.

Too much water everywhere due to the recent rains making abundant pools throughout the Game Reserve.

Despite the frustrating conditions we still enjoyed our stay and had some unexpected sightings.

Typical Habitats

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In the pan at Mahlahla Hide water was present but it was almost fully overgrown and difficult to see anything unless it was really close. We spent half an hour there and saw nothing. But the journey from the camp to the hide is always interesting. In the open area as you reach the bottom of the hill we saw the usual Little bee-eaters and many Black Saw-wings.

Then there was a Swallow with a lovely red rump hanging out with the Saw-wings..

Carrying on along that road towards the airstrip we came across an obliging Striped Kingfisher.

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Then along the airstrip we noticed a number of European Rollers. The most abundant of all the Rollers in the Reserve. And as we expected Crowned Lapwings.

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From the airstrip we headed for the Kumasinga Hide. The hide was very quiet and the normally abundant birds were absent – even the animals were spartan

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Then the Red-billed Queleas arrived – some more brightly coloured than others. One even looked like a red Red-billed Quelea.

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We stayed at the hide until nightfall only leaving there close to 18h30. (Had to be back in camp by 19h00). When we hit the tar road back to camp we went left instead of right and trolled that road as far as the Tower. On the way we saw a number of Fiery-necked Nightjars and a Spotted Thick-knee. On the way back I managed to get a shot of a Fiery-necked Nightjar and also the Bronze-winged Courser – both in the middle of the road.

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The next day we took a trip towards the Hunting camp, took in the Loop Road and also to the hides on Nsumo Pan, the Campsite and Malibala Hide. As we left the tar road heading towards the Hunting camp , we saw a large bird in one of the fever trees. On closer inspection we were surprised to see a Black Stork.

On the way back from the picnic site (near the entry road to the Hunting camp) we saw a large raptor silhouetted in a bare tree. A juvenile Bateleur with a lovely curly hairstyle.

As we turned onto the Loop road we saw our only Lilac-breasted Roller during the time we were in the Reserve.

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Following around the Loop road we were in for another surprise – a Lesser Grey Shrike.

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Wildlife seen on the loop.

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We visited the hides and picnic site on Nsumo Pan. The water level was very high and few birds were seen on the water or on it’s edge. All the birds photographed were in the trees beside the Pan.

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The pan at Malibala Hide was full and the bird life quiet. Even the campsite was unusually the same.

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Of course being in the area we had to visit Mpempe Pan. Ever hopeful of finding the Buff-breasted Sandpiper. We made our call to advise we were coming and gained permission to do so. That was not the hard part. The hard part was finding the best way to the Pan despite our GPS and the co-ordinates of its location. After following the GPS map into various fields where the tracks ran out, we gave up on the GPS directions and followed our nose instead.

Along the way we saw hundreds of Western Cattle Egrets either side of the road as we approached the Pan. And many other large and small birds were in the air too. Quite a sight considering the paucity of large flocks elsewhere. Eventually we crossed the low level bridge with a huge open flat field to our right full of bird movement. Quite a pleasant surprise.

We parked on the right as we crossed the low level bridge. Out we got, togged up and were ready to check among the Kittlitz’s Plovers for the bird when I decided I wanted to park a little further along the track. Untogged, back in the car and off we set.

After just 20 metres there was the bird right in front of us. What a fantastic chance was that. We watched as it moved about among the Kittlitz’s Plovers before I decided I wanted to take a few photos. The sunlight was coming from the wrong direction not helping with the shots. Taking a circuitous route around I eventually managed to get some more pleasing shots.

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Such a great looking bird and just as I had imagined from the photos in Roberts.

Beyond the field was the wetland area. As we walked around to the wetland we walked among flocks of Senegal Lapwings and Ruff. Crowned and Blacksmith Lapwings were also seen.

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On the right of the wetland we noticed Collared Pratincoles on the ground and Glossy Ibis as well, even a beautiful Malachite Kingfisher. And it was there that a Large black waterbird was seen. We approached to get a better look but it flew then a little later it came back to the same spot. At first we had considered it to be a Rufous-bellied Heron, but now that we were closer we realised that it was a Black Heron. Again it flew and returned. As it flew we could see the yellow feet and black bill. On return it was disturbed by a Purple Heron and flew away with yet another Black Heron – a pair.

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To sum up. We only identified 123 different bird species in Mkuze. Very disappointing as we expected closer to 180 or more – shows the impact of the rain. At Mpempe Pan in the short time we were there we identified 32 bird species. Our list can be seen by clicking on the following link.

Despite the lack of species we had some great and unexpected sightings and as we left early for personal reasons we have 2 days banked for the future.

Cheers

Sally and Paul Bartho

5th to 7th November 2020

On our way through the park we always stop at roadside water and especially at some of the larger pans just off the main roads. It was no different this time as we drove down from Balule to Lower Sabie. Most of the pans had a decent amount of water in them. It was at one of these pans that not only were there a number of animal species as well as birds. By chance I looked down to the edge closest to our car. And what did we see. Some beaurtiful little birds which we had not seen for quite a few years – African Quail-finch.

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In the sweltering heat and humidity that was a great sighting.

At Lower Sabie we found the campsite we had used previously to be empty so we set up camp there. The campsite was busy so we were happy to have found this spot.

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A few habitat photos of the area.

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The weather followed us down from Balule – hot (39 to 41 C) and humid. No fun at night despite the use of a fan. Much of our time was spent lolling in the pool. Eventually it got to us and we left the Kruger 2 days early

We tried to visit the Ntandanyathi Hide but it was closed so we continued to Crocodile Bridge and then on to Mpondo Dam. Too hot for many of the animals except elephants having fun at Mpondo Dam.

We also went north to Mlondozi Dam but again the bush was quiet.

The best viewing was both along the main road to Skukuza and Sunset Dam right outside Lower Sabie gate.

Here are some of the sightings which we photographed as we drove around.

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A male Steenbuck was very interested in performing with a female but she would have none of it.

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We had an odd encounter with a Red-billed Hornbill. It was in the middle of the road and would not move out of the way as we got closer. Eventually we drove right up alongside it and it still would not fly or move. I opened the car door and it stayed put. I got out to make it fly but it would not. Eventually I picked it up and placed it on the verge with no resistance. I could not leave it in the middle of the road where it was likely to be hit by a car. Looking back we surmised that it may have been stunned or else bitten by a snake.

Sunset Dam is probably the most frequented Dam in the Kruger. Not only because of its proximity to Lower Sabie Camp enabling quick access to early morning and evening viewing but also because there are resident Crocodiles and Hippos always to be seen. It is also one of the favourite Dams where other animals and birds frequent.

There appears to be a resident Black-crowned Night-Heron there as well. We saw one in the same place previously.

Buffalo sometimes visit – like this one having had a complete mud bath.

Then for something different there was this Grey Heron hitching a ride.

Yellow-billed Storks seen opposite Sunset Dam in the Sabie River late one evening.

In all we identified 103 different bird species in the short time we were there. To see the list click on the link below. The spreadsheet will also show you what we identified in each area we camped. In total for the whole trip we identified 254 different bird species.

We hope you have enjoyed our tales from our Kruger trip.

Sally and Paul Bartho

1st to 5th November 2020

Balule is one of our favourite camps in the Kruger NP. It is a relatively small camp without power consisting of about 20 campsites and several huts.

At night the hyenas patrol the fence line often lying down quietly within metres of you and staring with their pleading eyes while resting their head on their front paws. A cute deceptive look of innocence.

On arrival we were greeted by the raucous sounds of hyenas battling just outside the entrance gate. The kerfuffle went on for quite some time.

We chose not to camp along the open fence line but rather in a large shady spot close by and using our solar panels to keep our batteries charged.

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Balule camp is located close to the Olifants River and to get to the Olifants Camp you cross the river over a low lying bridge.

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And on this visit the muddy water was flowing swiftly quite close to the level of the bridge.

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On one occasion later in the day we observed more than 50 Openbills flying downriver.

Some scenery shots around the area.

Venturing out one day to visit Olifants Camp and just as we approached the low level bridge we noticed a cat lying under a shady tree. We had heard them during the night so it was a thrill to see them too.

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Olifants Camp is set atop of a hill overlooking the Olifants river. It has a great lookout over the river. And from there you can often see herds of Elephant and Buffalo below and in the distance.

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Taking the S44 from Olifants Camp, there is another Lookout Point overlooking the river below.

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An unusual sight looking over the river on a cool overcast and mistyish morning – looking at some rocks in the river. The photos are as we saw them.

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From Balule we went as far afield as the Sweni Hide next to the N’wanetsi picnic site. We went in hope that it was open after being disappointed when we were staying in Satara. We were not disappointed and although there were not many birds we watched young elephants having fun in the water.

Here are some photos of the lovely birds and beasts that we saw while at Balule – some in the camp like the Blue Waxbill.

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At night we were treated to some glorious sunsets.

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Packing up to leave was hell. Despite the early hour there was not a breath of wind and the humidity was high. By the time we had finished I had a heat rash all round the back of my neck which took weeks to heal.

Then we were on our way heading South to Lower Sabie for the remainder of our stay in the Kruger NP. That will be Part 9 and the final part of our trip to the Kruger NP.

To see our bird list for Balule then click on the link below.

Paul and Sally Bartho

28th to 31st October 2020

Pafuri is a long drive from Punda Maria making it difficult to reach the area early in the morning. As we had previously stayed at Pafuri River Lodge just outside of the Pafuri Gate so we attempted to stay there again but had no response. Eventually someone called us and told us that it had closed down but we could camp at – Nthakeni.

Leaving Punda Maria we headed north. Passing large herds of Buffalos and finding it difficult to spot Red-billed Oxpeckers. Yellow-billed Oxpeckers were everywhere that there were herds of Buffalos or Impala.

There is a large Baobab on top of a hill overlooking the Pafuri plain beyond. Very majestic and noticeable from all around.

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Nthakeni is near the village of Nkotswi and about 6 kms from the Pafuri entrance gate. About 4 kms on tar then turn off to the left for 2 kms past the village, across a river through dry pastoral land to the camp. Nthakeni is a concession from the local people who have created the camp.

Upon arrival we were met by a very friendly host and hostess – Annelise and Kobus – and directed to our campsite – Mashato. Annelise and Kobus manage the site with help from the local population. The goal is to make it ecofriendly and comfortably rustic. Cottages run on solar power.

The campsite was right on the river bank and surrounded by trees – much like the setting at Pafuri picnic site. The entry was down a steep slope with a sharp turn to the right. Facilities in our camp included our own Ablutions with hot water and a kitchen fully equipped but without a fridge. No electric power but a donkey boiler. And a great river view.

Some photos of the communal facilities:

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And our view of the Mutale river:

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Unfortunately in the future the two campsites by the river will be converted to Tented camps and camping will be found in and around the great baobabs nearby – no river views sadly.

Cows and a donkey roamed up and down the river ringing their bells.

Birding was excellent in the campsite – many different species to listen to and observe flitting about.

There are a couple of trails to enjoy: –

When we went to explore the trails, two of the camp dogs joined us and led the way.

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What a wonderful life for these dogs. They know how to stay fit as this video shows.

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We spent a couple of days traversing the Luvuvu River at Pafuri, from Crooks Corner, past the Picnic site, the bridge and on to the Thulamela Archeological site. The area was quite dry although there were some lush treed areas around the river bed as these photos will show.

The drive between the bridge to Crooks Corner is always variable and interesting. The riverside trees are massive and full of life. No sooner had we turned off the S63 heading for Crooks Corner we ran into a road block – a tree had fallen across the road and we had to find a way around it. We looked for Lemon-breasted Canaries in the palms but probably it was too dry for them.

While there we noticed people on the opposite side walking along the river side. And as we were there a police patrol arrived and shouted at the men opposite. Crooks Corner still lives up to its name.

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The picnic site is always a great place to see and listen to birds. We were not disappointed. There were a couple of Black-throated Wattle-eyes attending to their nestlings in one of the very large trees in the picnic site – very hard to spot and impossible for photos unfortunately. Here are some of the birds we did manage to photograph.

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The bridge is a great place to look for birds and there is often animal life below. This time was no different. It is one of the bridges where you are allowed out of your vehicle but you must stay between the yellow lines on the bridge surface. Unfortunately there are people who wander over the lines sometimes going off the bridge. If that habit persists then this privilege will cease.

It was here that Sally spotted a Bohm’s Spinetail amongst the Swifts and Swallows overhead.

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Mud Fun:

As we drove around the area we had sightings of birds and animals. A lone Eland youngster, a pair of mating Lions, a Leopard below a treetop full of Baboons, Crocodiles as well as Meve’s Starling, Marsh Sandpiper, Red-headed Weaver, Squacco and Striated Herons, a pale phase Wahlberg’s Eagle, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver to name a few.

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Bath Time for a White-crowned Lapwing.

And then there was the Leopard lying next to the road among some dead tree trunks. At first we passed by without noticing it but something caught our eye. We reversed and there was the Leopard – keeping an occasional eye on the nearby Buffalo.

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The next part of our trip was to be spent at Balule. On the way we overnighted at Shingwedzi. Most of our experience at Shingwedzi has been included in Part 5 of this series. Balule is Part 8 of this series which will follow shortly.

Our bird list for Nthakeni and Pafuri can be seen by clicking on the following link:

Hope you have enjoyed the read.

Sally and Paul Bartho

24th to 28th October

From Shingwedzi we headed north to Punda Maria to continue birding. Our friends left us and returned south through the Park. On the way up we had a delightful experience with a pair of Kori Bustards. They were prancing on a hillock by the road.

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The camp in Punda Maria was very busy at the bottom near the fence and the hide overlooking the waterhole just over the fence. The ablutions there were over worked and had an unseemly odour.

We headed for our preferred location nearish to the ablutions at the top and overlooking the campsite – away from people.

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The waterhole can get very busy at times with small herds of Elephants and hundreds of Buffalo – especially late afternoon going into the night. Often trumpeting quite loudly and for long periods – presumably to let others know that this is their waterhole.

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Marabou Storks sometimes visit as this one did. It sat down in a posture resembling a person playing the piano.

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On occasion a Leguaan passes by. But it is not often that you get to see it doing press-ups.

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Several times we drove the 25 kms Mahonie Loop around the camp. Birds were disappointingly quiet. However we did come across a leopard once – making up for it – a bit.

While we were there we got a message from Trevor Hardaker that a Golden Pipit had been seen and he gave us the co-ordinates. The Pipit was seen approximately 10 kms south of the turnoff of the H13-1 heading on the H1-8 to Shingwedzi. We got up very early to find it. And we did. The co-ords were perfect. Sally spotted it on the verge as we drove slowly towards it. It went up into the trees by the road and moved about from tree to tree and branch to branch. Lovely bird – seems to float like a butterfly as it flies. A calling Monotonous lark also appeared at the scene.

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The next day we needed diesel – however the petrol pumps at the garage at Punda Maria had unfortunately been smashed into by a car which had lost control on the drive up to reception. That meant a trip back to Shingwedzi (70 kms away) to fill up. This was not an inconvenience for us. We had the opportunity to look for the Golden Pipit again, a bit of breakfast at the Babalala picnic site and another drive on the S56 side road which we had so enjoyed when staying at Shingwedzi.

As we reached the end of the H13-1 to turn south on to the H1-8 a family of Cheetahs ran across the road. The mother heading left and the two sub-adults to the right across the road. We stopped to look at the youngsters as the mother disappeared into the bush. Eventually she re-appeared, crossed the road and united with the youngsters. Nice sighting.

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On the way we stopped again when we found the Golden Pipit. Lovely bird. As we left so the bird flew away but we heard it later returned. At Babalala picnic site we stopped for tea then took the S56 loop road to Shingwedzi. We had not gone far when a pair of Coqui Francolins – Sally’s recent bogey bird – crossed the road ahead of us.

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Further along we came across the Elephants digging for water while the Leopard watched. Another Leopard further along was hanging out lying in a tree by the road. Then as we approached the Shingwedzi Gate we noticed about a hundred Buffalo taking advantage of a large pool of water in the river bed below. Closer inspection of something odd in the water revealed a pair of crocodiles holding on to something. With the scope out we realised it was the head of a buffalo.

The Klopperfontein waterholes were virtually dry, however an Elephant and a few Buffalo were taking advantage of what was left in one of them. While camping in Punda Maria we refrained from visiting Pafuri as we intended to spend three nights at Nthakeni at a community camp just outside the Pafuri Gate.

Here is a selection of the birds photographed in the area.

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The day before we left we returned from a drive to find we had new neighbours. They had put their Campervan up so close to us that it was impossible for me to hook up our car to the front of our trailer when we left – without having to drive over their ground sheet and under their awning. Turning our Serval was not an option as we were on a ledge.

Anyway we managed – with a use of their space unfortunately.

Our bird list amounted to 104 different species identified. To see our list please click on the link following.

Then we were on to the top of the Park and to a community run Camp – Nthakeni near the village of Nkotswi – about 6 kms from the Pafuri entrance gate. From our base in Nthakeni we explored not only the area around Nthakeni but also Pafuri. Our time there will be reported in the next part of our Kruger saga. Part 7 to follow.

21st to 24th October 2020

It is a two kms drive to the Shingwedzi gate once you exit the H1-6. You drive alongside the river bed with many tall trees either side. When we were there the river bed had a number of pools in it. The water was not flowing. It is difficult to imagine that the river sometimes overflows its banks. The volume of water would be immense.

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Our friends had arrived before us and were in the process of putting up their camp by a spot along the fence. When we had checked-in they told us not to do so as one has to book those sites in advance and all were booked. We mentioned that to our friends and they told us that they had not been told. After much hoohah with check-in they decided to move. Shame.

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The campsite was far from full.

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After all our travels it was time to do some washing – except the camp’s laundry machines had broken down so the staff were using the one laundry machine to wash hutted guest towels – piling them in to fill the machine completely.

We had a friendly Dwarf Mongoose visit us one day looking for food no doubt. Bird wise the camp was very quiet. Not surprising after 6 months of lockdown they went elsewhere to find food.

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Some typical habitat in the area.

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A Lion kill had been reported. A Waterbuck lying in the riverbed along the S50 heading south. We took a drive out to see what was left. We passed the breached Kanniedood Dam passing a number of good water bird pools- even coming across a Saddle-billed Stork in the bush and a pair of Verreaux’s Eagle Owls.

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Just before reaching the Lion kill we spotted 5 male Lions clambering away from us on the opposite side of the dry river bed. Eventually we reached the spot. The poor waterbuck was lying close to our edge of the river bed – just visible through the foliage. Vultures were everywhere but on the carcass – a lioness was lying on the sand close by – perhaps that was the reason. Suddenly the vultures all piled in one on top of another. The stomach was pulled out and carried away much agro as to who will keep it. However once open it looked a soggy mess and most vultures gave up on it. There was a goodly variety of Vultures – Lappet-faced, White-backed, White-headed and Hooded. And then the hyenas arrived,

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And when Hyenas arrive then chaos.

Further along the S50 you pass Dipene Outpost monument on the way to the Nyawutsi Hide. Elephant were there and so was an African Fish-Eagle. The Eagle was fluttering between branches and posing for photos.

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The R52 – SW of the camp is a double loop road either side of a (usually) dryish river. The Red Rocks lookout is found on the first loop. The second loop goes further to the Tshanga Lookout. The second loop is well vegetated with large trees following the both sides of the river. It was along this loop that we saw some interesting birds. One such was a raptor which challenged us to recognise. Eventually we decided it was a Booted Eagle with an unusual lump on its chest..

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Other birds seen along this loop:

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We visited Red Rocks on the first loop as well and saw a small herd of Elephants walking on the rocks.

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Just north of Shingwedzi is a dirt road – the S56 – going up to the Babalala Picnic site. For many people this road is considered one of the most scenic in the park. It was certainly that for us, as well as just as exciting.

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As we drove along we found Buffalo and Elephant ambling in the river bed. In one area there were over 150 Buffalo enjoying a largish pool of water. Elephants were digging for water.

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Further along there were elephant scattered in the dry river bed digging for water. Sally took a video of one Elephant at work and was surprised what she saw. Have a look. And be surprised.

Birds too were lovely to see

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We ventured along the S56 several times and came across leopards each time. We found the one in the video several times in the same place and another in the same general but resting on a branch. Our favourite cat.

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In the three days we were in Shingwedzi we recorded 112 different bird species. Click on the link to see our list.

From Shingwedzi we headed to Punda Maria which forms Part 6 of our report.

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Tsendze

17th to 21st October

Our next camp was Tsendze. A well treed campsite only. No electric power but solar power for hot water and a shared freezer.

The camp is right next door to the Mooiplaas picnic site and about 8 kms from Mopani where check-in takes place. It is possible to pre-book a campsite we are told and we would argue that some of the best sites are Numbers, 1,14,17,18 22, and 25. However much depends on whether you need sun for your solar panels. Some sites are large and suitable for 2 or 3 off-road trailers or caravans.

The following photos show our site among many others and gives you an impression of the vegetation in the camp.

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The camp is managed by Elena Mona and Rodgers Hobyane. They are the best managers in the Park by far – in our opinion. Every evening they come round to check everything is ok. They are social and helpful.

Tsendze camp is famous for its owls. We have seen and heard African Barred Owlet, Pearl-spotted Owlet and African Scops Owl there in the past.

This time was no different. In fact we were greeted by an African Barred Owlet as we set up camp – number 25. The Owlet came with 3 metres and watched us set up. Magic welcome. It checked in on us every day we were there.

In fact there were a pair breeding in a tree quite close by. At night we heard their call as well as that of the African Scops Owl and occasionally the Pearl Spotted Owlet.

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The Mooiplaas picnic site, literally next to the camp, is one of our favourite tea stops. It is run by Phineous – another very helpful person and well knowledged on the birds there. Again well treed and shady with a shaded lookout over the Tsendze river.

One morning we visited and Phineous showed us where to see the African Scops Owl. He had heard it early morning and had searched for it till he found it. Such a small Owl and well camouflaged to hide next to the bark of any tree.

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It was not till we got to Tsendze that we saw our first Kori Bustard – being bombed by a Crowned Lapwing as it so happened.

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Here is a quick slideshow of some of the habitat in and around Tsendze.

Driving along the H14 towards Phalaborwa gate, Sally heard a bird call which she recognised but could not quite put her finger on it immediately. We stopped and it kept calling from a distance. Eventually moving back and forward the bird was spotted and we immediately knew what it was – the familiar Coocuk sound which did not immediately identify – An African Cuckoo.

The H14 at that time provided us with some interesting memories. At separate places – quite close to each other – there were Hyenas – mainly curious pups. Very cute looking and very inquisitive – even inspecting the underside of our car. Further along seven Wild Dogs appeared on the road and the leader took them alongside our car on their way to somewhere. Then there was a Grand-daddy of a Lion imperiously lying on the road daring anyone to pass. After that we took a loop down next to some water and there in the water were Hyenas having a relaxing bath. On the way back another pair of Lions were seen in the foliage by the road sleeping off a wild night by the looks of them – well zonked out.

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Just after we turned around to come back we ventured off on a side road. Not far along Double-banded Sandgrouses popped across the road in front of us. The road eventually dwindling out at a river crossing which we were not prepared/supposed to take. Returning we had sightings of some raptors too.

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There were many Buffalo and Elephant sightings alongside all the roads we explores. The Buffalo in large herds. One Elephant also took advantage of a stepping stone to access water from a storage tank. Another a nearby tree to have a good scratch and yet another with a forward facing floppy ear.

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One morning we went to Mopani to walk below the camp alongside Pioneer Dam. As we turned off the main road we spotted three Cheetah – a mother and two youngsters. Lovely unexpected sighting. They had obviously been drinking at a waterhole right by the road up to Mopani. They were trotting off at a distance so we enjoyed watching them disappear and no photos were taken.

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We also visited the other side of Pioneer dam and the hide there. Unfortunately there was little to see from the hide. On the way you cross the Tsendze river on a low level bridge. At the bridge we have often seen Black Crake scurrying around on the bridge and in the vegetation beside it. Again they were there and also a Lapsmith (try the mouthful Blacksmith Lapwing) chick. A Marabou Stork was also hanging around with the Hippos on the other side.

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One late afternoon we followed this same road down to its dead end at Stapelkop Dam hoping to see lots of water birds. The vegetation along the way is pretty flat except for an outcrop of boulders about half way along. We always stop there to have a good look for birds and the occasional Klipspringer. A Red-headed Weaver was seen but little else. We had the same scenario at the Dam – just a Water Thick-knee. It was on the way back that we had an unexpected sighting at the boulders. I don’t know how Sally saw it as it was well camouflaged – a Spotted Eagle-Owl. And then we found the Klipspringer that we were looking for earlier.

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On another morning we took the S50 along the wetlands up to the Shibavantsengele Lookout and then to the Grootvlei Dam. We always enjoy this section of the road. Buffalo and Elephant along the wetland section. Further along we always seem to come across Red-crested Korhaans often making their call (the click song as I call it) and sometimes their flight display. Now that is special. At the end of their call they suddenly take flight – vertically and then at about 10 metres they drop out of the sky like those acrobatic airplanes falling erratically to ground. At the last second they pull out of their dive and land. We were not fortunate to see that display this time but we did video their click song.

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Grootvlei Dam is off the beaten track – one of those places we like to visit. Here we saw a Grey Heron flying over, African Spoonbills, Curlew Sandpipers, African Pied Wagtails, an African Spoonbill between an African Openbill and a Yellow-billed Stork.

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A pair of Black-winged Stilts were interesting to watch as they swapped over nest duties.

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Photos of birds seen in the area include:

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On the way back to camp, an amorous Steenbok made numerous attempts to seduce its female companion but she was having none of it. Amusing to watch her antics and his persistence.

Tsendze is probably our favourite place to camp in the park. The campsite is well run, the staff are friendly, the ablutions maintained. It is well treed and has awesome birds. Its location provides a variety of habitats to explore.

In all we identified 108 different bird species in this area. To see our list, click on the following link.

Next stop was Shingwedzi for 3 nights and this will be Part 5 of our report on our visit to the Kruger National Park.

Hope you enjoyed the read.

Sally and Paul Bartho

7th to 11th October 2020

Skukuza

With Malelane behind us on a cool Wednesy morning with rain threatening, we headed for Skukuza. On arrival we were told the campsite was only 50% full. That was definitely not the case as we struggled to find a spot for our off-road trailers. Our friends found a tight spot where they could set up together and eventually we parked in a spot where others were leaving. Fortunately on level ground.

The camp birds were very vocal and some quite friendly too. Lovely to hear their call especially first thing in the morning.

During the four days we were there we made good use of our time and birded as far afield as Tshokwane, Orpen Dam, Pretoriaskop, Lower Sabie and Crocodile Bridge. The weather remained overcast but the rain had abated for now.

Some photos of the terrain:

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Lake Panic was virtually dry so we wasted no time there. Sabie river was flowing strongly – presumably from all the rainfall up river. The river side was very quiet bird-wise but hordes of Buffalo enjoyed a good soaking.

On several of the bridges Giant Kingfishers hung about. On one bridge a Kingfisher let us get right alongside.

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Elsewhere a Lappet-faced Vulture took off and headed straight at us.

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And a Dark Chanting Goshawk was seen polishing off what looks a bit like the tail end of a snake.

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Then there were the waterbirds we saw:

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Of course there were animals too:

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There were many bush birds about. In Pretoriuskop there were Red-headed Weavers and Brown-headed Parrots. It was there that we heard unusual calls from a flock of very small birds in an open tree. Sally was convinced they were Green-capped Eremomelas. We had fleeting views of them as they bobbed around in one of the trees. Pity I was unable to get a photo.

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Here is a gallery of bush birds we photographed as we travelled around:

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Another surprise for us was to see a YELLOW-billed Oxpecker so low down in the KNP. On a buffalo at S 24.87; E 31.748.

Altogether in our time at Skukuza we identified 144 different bird species.

On Sunday 11th October we left Skukuza to join our friends at Satara for 3 days. The story continues in Part 3.

Paul and Sally