Mapungubwe – Birds are our Story

Kruger top to bottom – Part 2

Published on July 10, 2024 by Paul Bartho1 Comment

Tsendze

10th to 11th April 2024

We only had one night here – all booked out. So, we got here early from Shingwedzi to give us time in the afternoon to have a look around. We set up quickly without putting up our awning.

On the way down to Tsendze, we notice many Openbills together in the river.

On our first sortie into the area, we headed to the Mooiplaas Waterhole and saw a few interesting bird species on the open ground nearby.

However, as we continued towards the wetland area, the road was taped off. Why? No rain so it must be passable. Perhaps they were grading the road, we thought. Annoyed, we returned to camp.

Back at camp we heard talk of an elephant seen just after the Mooiplaas Waterhole on the S49. The story intrigued us and as a result and our time in Tsendze focused there. Time well spent.

We went back and the taped off road was now open. We continued. Our first indication that we were getting close:

Then there were the animals and Marabu Storks blocking the road.:

Eventually we arrived and realised what all the fuss was about and the stories were sadly confirmed.

The reason why the road was closed was obvious.

The next morning we returned and all the vultures and storks were in the bushes and none around the carcass. We understood why as we got close. His majesty was waiting to fill his fill further.

And that amounted to our time spent in Tsendze.

Next Satara and our explosive time there for 3 nights.

Satara

11th to 14th April 2024

Having set up camp, we took a run along the S100 to Gudzani Dam. This was the third time we were disappointed with little to see – both game and birds.

We did visit the Sweni Hide briefly. It was not very active until the elephants showed up and entertained us with their water antics – especially the young ones trying to show who was boss among each other.

The next day we headed north along the H1-4 to the turnoff towards Balule camp on the S147. One of our newly favourite roads.

And then turned west and backtracked along the Timbavati loop – S39. We stopped at Ratel Dam Hide. The area in front of the hide had very little water. We had a few sightings with the standout being a juvenile Black Stork.

There was also a large black crocodile present on the sandbank.

On another day we chose to take the H7 to Orpen Gate and then back along the Talamati Bush Camp road (S140) turning onto the S36 to the Muzandzeni Picnic site. From there taking the S126 to the H1-3 tar road back to camp.

Breakfast at Orpen Gate.

We stopped at the Muzandzeni Picnic ground for a T&P but in order to enter we had to skirt round an inquisitive elephant – which we were told had also entered to do its business. The picnic ground had some active birds – a sleepy African Scops Owl, a radiant Burchell’s Starling, a pair of Bennett’s Woodpeckers – tantalising us with their knocking in the branches above us.

The S126 from Muzandzeni to the main road proved to be rewarding for us. We not only saw a Leopard – admittedly quite fleetingly – but also many Sandgrouse and Red and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers – primarily on Zebras and some on Giraffe. Red-crested Korhaans called close to the road, and we had sightings of a Marico Flycatcher, a Lappet-faced Vulture, Tawny Eagle to name a few.

Every morning the Southern Ground Hornbills were calling close by. It was only on our last day at Satara that we saw them – close to the camp entrance. They were right beside the road.

And to hear them call:

Southern Ground Hornbills calling to each other. Very memorable call.

Almost forgot. Our Explosive experience.

In camp Sally was making tea. I was elsewhere. Walking back to our Wildcat, I could see many people chatting to Sally. Unusual I thought.

Sally told me that she had heard what sounded like a gun shot and suddenly everyone nearby came to her rescue. She was perplexed. And then realised that she had actually caused the commotion when she turned on the hot water tap. The explosion had occurred because there was gas build up in the closed compartment where the gas water heater was stored. And by opening the hot water tap a spark was created – boom. The closed compartment door was blown open with a loud bang. Fortunately the damage was not excessive. But it taught us a lesson to always turn off the gas supply when the compartment door is closed and preferably remove the batteries from the igniter switch as well !

Almost forgot. Jackals in camp. People reported that the Jackals were eating guy ropes. Well we had a slightly different experience. My clogs had gone for a walkabout. Later to be found, the clogs intact but both straps had been removed and chewed into almost precisely one inch pieces and left around the each clog.

Then we moved on to Lower Sabie for 4 nights. See Part 3.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Northern South Africa – Part 2

Published on December 3, 2023December 4, 2023 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

In Part 2 I will cover the time we had in Mapungubwe, Nthakeni and Pafuri as well as Dumela Camp in Mozambique.

Mapungubwe National Park

19th to 23rd August 2023

Mapungubwe NP is one of our favourite Parks. This year it was very very dry – dusty and the waterholes almost empty.

The NP is split into two areas. The campsites are in the Western section and the Chalets, Reception nestled in a picturesque rocky area in the Eastern Section.

**Western Section of Mapungubwe. Mazhou camp is at the top to the west of the Tented Camp**

Mazhou Campsite

Little Bushbabies made their presence known.

The campsite has an interesting entrance “Gate”. It is self-service and designed to keep out the elephants. It is a coiled electricified wire with an insulated handle. Pulling the handle towards the fence releases it. Once the vehicle is through then reconnect.

The park is littered with dead trees lying on dusty ground. Typical dry and dusty scenery everywhere in the park shown below.

Some water in the Limpopo River. Northernmost boundary

The Maloutswa Hide was a basically a mud hole. It had signs of water above the mud in one corner of the waterhole. Sadly a Gnu went into the mud to reach surface water but never made it back out again.

Maloutswa Hide Mud Bath

Meve’s Starlings and Laughing Doves were in their masses around the mud hole enjoying what little water there was. An occasional Meyer’s Parrot would fly over. Water Monitors lingered in the mud. Animals came and went. It seemed the only foolhardy were the Gnus, Zebras and Warthogs.

One day we ventured out the Western Gate and went directly opposite into the veldt. We were treated to numerous sightings of both Chestnut-backed and Grey-backed Sparrow-Larks even juveniles which confused us for a while. Here are some of their photos.

In that section we also found Sandgrouses (Burchell’s and Double-banded), White-browed Sparrow-Weavers, White-crowned Shrikes, Crowned Lapwings and Scaly-feathered Finches to name a few.

Elsewhere in the Western Section we spotted some secretive and not-so secretive species.

We also visited the Eastern Section of the Park. About 20 kms drive from East to West entrances along the Den Staat road.

We spent a day in the Eastern Section. It too was very dry and dusty. On entry we encountered Impala Lilies – always very colourful.

Then we went west on entry and had great views over the valley despite the dry and dusty conditions.

The drive to Leokwe boulder camp is always scenic, however the birds were scarce. As usual the Klipspringers and Dassies were not.

From Leokwe it was a short drive to the boardwalk at the Treetop Lookout. On the way there are many Baobabs. And we spotted a Kori Bustard.

The boardwalk was a little rickety and had been damaged at the end closest to the Limpopo River. On the walk we sighted a White-backed Vulture’s nest close by with a chick on board.

By the time we got to the Confluence it was tea-time and the picnic site was most welcome. The view towards the river is magnificent. Overhead it seemed that there was a pathway for the birds flying over the ridge. Some even chanced there luck with our crumbs.

View of one side of the picnic site overlooking the river in the distance. It is worth walking across the ridge to see the view on the other side.

As you look down across the plain below you have a sense that you are viewing numerous Meerkats in an upward stance peering into the distance.

From here we headed along the river to the SANDF Bunker. A pretty and testing drive at times. Every time in the past that we visited this area we have found Pels Fishing Owls in the tall trees by the bunker – not this time unfortunately.

Zebra Pan was quiet – probably the time of day when we got there. On to the lookout Point over Zhizo, more for the view over the river. We did spot several Saddle-billed Storks but not much else.

Throughout the day we had seen many pairs of African Hawk-Eagles and an ocassional Gabar Goshawk.. Here are a few photos.

We continued the circle back to reception. By now it was after midday and the birds were quiet. It was only when we reached the small dam just before reception that things got interesting. Well very interesting and unexpected.

Dam before reception. Always a must visit. And it proved so again.

Not only a bird haven but Dassie heaven too.

Here are some of the birds seen there.

The Greater Painted Snipe was most unexpected and to see how friendly it was with the other species was awesome.

In total we identified 81 different bird species.

After four nights in Mapungubwe it was time to move on.

Nthakeni Bush and River Camp birding near Pafuri, KNP.

23rd to 25th August 2023

Our next destination was Nthakeni Bush and River Camp about 240 kms from Mapungubwe. The camp is located just 5 kms from the Pafuri Gate into the Kruger National Park (KNP). And it was from Nthakeni that we explored the Pafuri area of the Kruger National Park.

A short drive from the main road to the camp through pleasant scenery. And then into a well maintained camp.

What a wonderful new campsite – Croc’s Corner – we were allocated. Great private setting in the bush overlooking the river with own ablution facilities. No power but free WiFi in the lounge area and an honesty bar. The shop in the lounge was well stocked with virtually all that a camper could want. Fairly priced too.

Birding in the camp is like birding at the Pafuri Picnic site in the Kruger. How’s this for an interesting creature.

**It is called a Tailless Whip Scorpion believe it or not. However, it is not a scorpion at all!!** **Not** **venomous**.

The camp birds sang for us and although we did not do a lot of birding around the camp, we still managed to record 21 different bird species. Here are some that we managed to photograph.

Most of our time was spent in the Pafuri area of the Kruger where we identified 64 different bird species.

On our way to the bridge we kept an eye and ear out for the Racket-tailed Rollers without success.

At the bridge we spent some time looking out for Spinetails – no luck. There were a number of raptors about – African Fish-Eagle, Bateleur, African Harrier-Hawk and a Tawny Eagle. The Tawny Eagle was being bombed by a White-crowned Lapwing. Very few waders present – just a Wood Sandpiper. There was a Giant Kingfisher and numerous Crested Guineafowl came for a drink.

As we stood on the bridge and looked upstream, we saw and heard a huge commotion – huge crocodiles fighting and looking below us was another upside down – rather dead sadly.

Sally heard a call – Tropical Boubou and there it was crossing the road at the gate end of the bridge. I was just able to get a few shots of it as it disappeared into the bush.

At Crooks’ Corner there were quite a few Hippos all cuddled up together in what little water there was below. Amongst them was a youngster casually walking through and over as it pleased.

On the way back to the Pafuri Picnic site we gazed across the river and noticed quite a lot of Crocodiles lazing on the opposite shore and on sandbanks. Most were large but there seemed to be one monster which took up the whole of a sandbank.

Red-billed and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers were seen together on Buffalos.

In Pafuri we identified 64 different bird species.

Our two nights at Nthakeni went quickly. We would have liked another day to explore the walking trails at Nthakeni but we had a firm booking made at our next spot.

The moon on our last night was spectacular.

Dumela Wilderness Safaris, Mozambique

25th to 29th August 2023

Dumela is 8 kms dirt road driving from the Pafuri/Mozambique Border crossing.

Getting through the RSA border was straight forward – even though the staff were a bit sour. However, on the Moz side all was OK until the Customs inspectors tried their hardest to find fault. Three of them were all round me – being pleasant but desperate to find if I had too much alcohol. Eventually they gave up having borrowed some small change.

Then further down the road we got stopped again by a bloke who tried to look official (they probably called him). He had a jacket on, belt with official looking buckle and a gun holster (but no gun). He settled for some refreshment – a small Coke!!

We had never been to Dumela and we had heard a lot of positive things being said about it. We decided we needed to see for ourselves. And so, our whole trip was built around getting there. Not knowing whether we might like it or not, we decided to stay for four nights. Our thinking was that if we only stayed two nights then we might regret it. Having had the experience, we reckon that three nights would be optimum for us. It would give us two full days to explore the area.

One of the things we did not realise was that this camp is a perfect stopover point for campers on their way to or from Gonarezhou NP in Zimbabwe. Enjoy a trip to the Kruger and then into Moz and Zim at convenient unbusy border posts. Just need to check the level of the rivers before doing so.

It was only an eight km drive but the road was well challenging in places – especially when towing.

At last a sign indicating reception. Up the long steep and testing hill we went. Checked in and were told the camp was back down hill and follow the road directly opposite.

The Camp we chose was next to the Mugano Lagoon as opposed to the Fever Forest Camp. What a wonderful location – like being at the Pafuri Picnic site. Loads of shade (might be an issue to rely on solar panels if you stay amore than 5 days). Lots of ablutions with donkey boilers for when the place is busy.

**Our Campsite overlooking the Mugano Lagoon. Well shaded.**

The camp has at least 20 sites – each very generous in size – and about four ablution blocks. On arrival there was another couple who left the next day. We were alone our second night. On the third night a large group of about 12 people rocked up and shared the place comfortably with us. On our final night the place was almost full – most either on their way to or from Gonarezhou NP in Zimbabwe.

The camp offers guided bird walks to try and find the Pels Fishing-Owl and boat rides on the Lagoon. Another option was to self drive into the largest Fever Tree Forest in Southern Africa – we did twice. And there was another drive past reception on a very rugged road into the bundu – we tried it but had to turn round for lack of grip on a fall off ledge.

Our walk around the camp to find the Pels turned out to be fruitless unfortunately. However, as we were close to the Limpopo – we made a detour to see it.

The next day we were able to re-trace some of our steps by car along the narrow paths (hoping not to encounter the rogue elephant seen near the camp). Part of this drive was close to one end of the lagoon.

Our boat ride was unfortunately cancelled due to very windy weather. Perhaps not a bad thing as the end of the lagoon did not appear to be too far away.

We enjoyed birding in the camp and driving through the Fever Forest. Hearing the Pels calling was very special – even if we did not see it. Some camp birds:

The Fever Tree Forest was the highlight of our time at Dumela.

On the first day we went into the Forest on foot with the Guide and saw a number of Raptors: African Harrier-Hawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Black Sparrowhawk, African Fish-Eagle and an Ovambo Sparrowhawk.

The next time we went to the Fever Tree Forest we saw lovely birds, however, the highlight was a Racket-tailed Roller for a few fleeting seconds.

We were camped under a very shady large tree. At night owls and animals were heard above us – an African Wood Owl in particular. A Fiery-necked nightjar. And in the day, birds scurried and screamed above us. Especially the Trumpeter Hornbills.

Altogether we managed to identify 91 different bird species in the four days we were there. From here it was back into the Kruger to Punda Maria, Shingwedzi, Letaba, Satara and Malelane before heading home. Our account of each of these places continues in Part 3.

Paul and Sally Bartho

That moon again. It has followed us from Nthakeni.

Mapungubwe NP, Ratho and Golden Gate NP

Published on September 24, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

9 to 13 September 2018

Sally and I have just spent four nights camping in Mapungubwe NP at the top-most part of RSA bordering Botswana and Zimbabwe.

We went there between the Bird Fair (at Walter Sisulu Gardens) and the Getaway Show (at the TicketPro Dome) – both in Jo’berg on consecutive weekends. It was the first time we had been to either show.

Our first issue was to find a campground within easy distance from each location. At first our search on Google Maps showed that there were no campsites reasonably close to either venue. However after much searching we did find one campsite – The Guest House @ Country Lodge in Muldersdrift situated between each venue and within 20 kms of each.

We went to the Opening Day of the Bird Fair – Saturday 8 September – in Walter Sisulu Gardens. This is a very appropriate venue in a wonderful setting. The Fair was equally as interesting. It had stands with everything appropriate to birding as well as talks from a variety of people – even a puppet show for the kids which the adults enjoyed equally. Faansie Peacock’s new book – “A fully fledged field guide… for kids” – was for sale. What a well written book and appropriate not only for kids but new and old adult birders as well.

Walter Sisulu NP is renowned for its Verreaux’s Eagles and their nest in the cliffs. We were not disappointed and had views of them on their nest with their offspring as well as in the air.

Then on to Mapungubwe NP to fill in time between the shows. Another 550 kms drive!!

Mapungubwe NP is divided into two sections – the Eastern and Western sides – with Den Staat Farm in between. See map above. The campsite is in the Western section and the reception is in the Eastern section – some 34 kms apart.

The Den Staat Farm has always had interesting ponds to search for amazing water birds. Permission to enter required. However, when we inquired about going there we understood that the farm had changed hands and the ponds are now all dry. No longer a special birding spot.

Right now both sides of the Park are extremely dry and dusty. The fences are broken in long stretches and cattle wander across the river from Botswana to forage in the Park. Sad that management appears to not have the funds needed to maintain the fences.

Impala enjoying the trees near the Mazhou campsite

Some camp birds.

Our first afternoon and next day we spent driving round the Western section, spending time at the Maloutswa Hide overlooking a patch of wetland (water supplied to maintain the wetland).

Perhaps the best sighting at the water hole was a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl nesting in a Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver’s nest.

In one spot we confronted a few elephants by the river.

Then we came across a Holy Tree.

After that, this juvenile Bataleur nicely framed.

At another spot we found a very rough access point to the river and picked up a few water birds amongst others on the way there.

In all we identified 92 different bird species. Our bird list for everywhere we visited can be seen later in this report.

One of the highlights of our time there was to see a Bushpig in the daylight. It had a lovely white mane which went from neck to rump. Most unexpected sighting.

Another day was spent in the Eastern section. The first bird we saw as we entered was a Red-headed Weaver which flitted about making it impossible to get a photo. A bit further along we came to a lookout point set high above the valley below where Baobabs appear in a barren landscape.

We headed for the chalet accommodation at Leokwe nestled in a boulder strewn enviroment.

On the way to Leokwe, Splat (our life-like Platapus furry toy) waved at a passing Park’s vehicle. It screeched to a halt. Out jumped the driver who came running up to our car. Oh-oh I thought. Well the driver, Leonard, immediately said, “I know you. You were in the Kruger Park at Pafuri 7 years ago driving a Kia”. We were astonished that he had remembered us – it must have been Splat whom he recognised.

Anyway he told us to follow him as he had something to show us. So we followed him virtually to the far end of the park to the old SADF bunker.

We had been there some 7 or 8 years ago and had intended to go there again during our visit. The benefit this time was having Leonard with us as we were able to get out of the car and walk around the area.

Specifically beneath the two large Nyala trees where we had seen a pair of Pel’s Fishing Owls all those years ago. And sure enough he pointed out another (or the same?) pair. What a wonderful happenstance meeting Leonard.

Sadly, we later learned that this wonderful spot at the SADF Bunker is being considered as a future picnic site. If this goes ahead then Goodbye to the Pel’s Fishing-Owls (and their likely breeding spot). Can we afford to let this happen? We have let Mark Anderson know about this and hope he has some influence with SAN Parks to avoid this going ahead.

Close to the Bunker the river did have a large area of standing water in it where we saw a small variety of waterbirds.

We went for a walk up to the viewing point overlooking the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers. As you can see the rivers at this point were absolutely dry and cattle could be seen wandering into the Park from the opposite side.

Limpopo and Shashe Rivers. Shashe with the large expanse of sand.

Red-billed Oxpecker on back of – yes – a cow.

From there we went to the tree top boardwalk and hide. The photo below shows the damage the elephants have caused to part of the entrance.

Some birds and other colourful critters photographed.

In all we identified 71 different bird species during the course of the day there.

On our final day we visited Ratho camp – due west of Pontdrift which is the border crossing into Botswana near the western-most edge of the Park. This crossing enters into the Tuli Block in Botswana. Should you want to visit the Tuli Block for a day visit we were told that it would cost you R700 to enter. Not sure if that cost applies per person nor if it applies if you simply want to drive through into other parts of Botswana.

Ratho sign to turn off the main road going to Pontdrift.

We had stayed at Ratho many years ago so it was interesting to see if it had changed much. At that time they had a 4×4 bush camp atop of a hill with a scenic loo overlooking the valley below. This has now gone, the area having been sold. However a new 4×4 camp has been established in the area next to the river.

There are now several drives alongside the river where elephants were seen to roam. The main camp has a deck overlooking a waterhole where the elephants often are seen.

However the most interesting thing we learnt from the owner – Sandra- was how the whole camp was submerged after the floods one year. In the pictures below you can see me pointing to the height of the water level marked on the tree. Surprisingly the essence of the camp remained and was refurbished. It was quite unimaginable to visualise the extent of the area under water.

We had a short drive along the riverside and identified 40 different bird species.

Grey Heron in breeding plumage – red beak

Eventually it was time for us to leave and head back to Jo’berg and the Getaway Show. We stayed at the same campsite as we had the previous weekend. This time without power nor water. Broken transformer and water shutdown. Fortunately we had own supply of both.

The Getaway Show covered everything associated with 4×4 camping. There were displays of all the main offroad campervans for people to examine. Probably the best way to assess which one you prefer.

At lunch time we visited Isdell House in Pinegowrie where we were treated to a full hour and a half tour guided by Mark Anderson. It was very impressive what they have done there. The whole concept is “Green” at its best. One day soon they may even be off the grid.

The support they got from various donors – the Isdell’s in particular – has been very generous. Virtually all the furnishings, building supplies have been donated by various companies keeping the cost of rebuild to an absolute minimum.

And the paintings, sketches, photos and prints – most signed by the artists – are extremely valuable. The library has a large selection of books donated by members. The policy of donated books is to offer the Orthonological Library first choice, then books come to Isdell’s library where some are kept, field guides donated to guides and schools, and the rest sold on – the proceeds of which go into the capital fund.

Such a well run operation with a very dedicated and happy team. It was a pleasant surprise to be guided around by Mark and to glean first hand of the story of Isdell House.

To break the journey home we decided to go to Golden Gate and camp for 2 nights with the hope of seeing vultures at the vulture restaurant, and Cape Eagle-Owl(s) along the cliffs bordering the campsite.

Our campsite sheltered from the icy wind by the ablution block.

The first thing we realised when we got to the campsite was the noisy people. Friday and Saturday nights are party nights and all passing traffic had their music at full blast. It is also a place for bikers.

There are two loops to bird along. One loop goes up tp 2150 metres while the vulture hide is on the other lower loop. Most of the habitat is high grassland with bordering cliffs. Bird variety is therefore limited.

Drakensberg peaks showing the Devil’s Tooth on the left

Our bird list for here and Mapungubwe can be seen by clicking here. Our afternoon and early morning bird list amountes to 23 different bird species here at Golden Gate.

We dipped on the Cape Eagle-Owl – not even hearing it. Not surprising really as the camp noise drowned out all other wildlife calls.

Black Wildebeest, Blesbok and Zebra were plentiful on the mountain slopes. Eland and Mountain Reedbuck were also seen.

The vulture hide was relatively quiet. No vultures, just White-backed Ravens, Cape Crows and a lonely Southern Bald Ibis.

The weather was very windy – perhaps that was why there were so few sightings. However we did see one Bearded vulture fly over the hide just as we had returned to the car.

All the other birds we had seen there took to the skies. So we raced back in the hope that the Bearded Vulture had landed – unfortunately it turned out to be another breathless walk 400 metres back to the hide to no avail.

African Stonechats were everywhere but this one had us fooled for a while.

After our morning’s drive round both loops the wind picked up. That was enough for us and we packed up and returned home a day early.

Hope you enjoyed the account and photos.

Paul and Sally Bartho