On our 15th Independence Day anniversary, Sally treated us to a few days in the Drakensberg at Cathedral Peak Hotel. Neither of us had been there before so it was a special treat for both of us.
Cathedral Peak Hotel LocationCathredral Peak Hotel
Some of the scenery as we approached the hotel, showing the Drakensberg mountains.
DrakensbergDidima Hotel next to Cathedral Peaks.Interesting accommodation at Didima
And views from Cathedral Peaks hotel.
View of the valley below our room. Golf Course seen below.Pathway next to our room. Peaks behind.
As you can see from the photos, the weather was gloriously sunny. However, when we set out on our morning walk the wind was blowing strongly and being well cocooned was imperative. As on all walks in the Berg, it is stupid if you don’t take a backpack of provisions like water, chocolate for energy and more warm clothes. It was also useful later in the day when it warmed up – somewhere to put all those warm clothes you started out with.
We set out at 09h00 heading to Blue Pools – top right of map above. And eventually got back at about 14h00. Here are some photos of the scenery on our walk.
Our destination – Blue Pools.Quite a climb to get here.
Birds and animals were few and far between. Not surprising at this altitude and the habitat dry and in many parts burnt.
The following photos show pictures of the birds and animals lower down – around the hotel and on the way to and from the hotel.
Cathedral Peaks Hotel is an all-inclusive resort. The hotel rooms were well sized and decorated. The dining area large with help-yourself food everywhere – smorgasbord style. An island for breakfast staples like cereals etc, deserts at lunch and dinner, breads etc. Another location for coffees and teas. Yet another for cooked dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Another cooking location for trout and yet another for Stir Fry of your choice.
Then between main meals there was a between meals tea, coffee and cakes station outside the dining area.
The bar area was cosy with a fire and comfortable seating.
The range of activities was extensive. Catering not only for walkers with trail guides but also activities for children of all ages.
We enjoyed the location and social interaction.
Would we go back? Yes, but as pensioners, only on a special occasion.
Birding was best on our journey to the hotel and around the grounds. In all we recorded 45 different bird species in 2 locations: Cathedral Peaks and a Wetland near Winterton.. You can see our list by downloading the following link.
A week’s break in Zululand was called for – missing nature. We timed it so that we could go to Zamanga on Saturday 13th July which was opened for members of the bird club to see their huge array of Aloes.
We booked 4 nights at Mkuze from the 12th to 16th and a further 3 nights in St. Lucia on the way home.
Our Mkuze Campsite
We always enjoy the Mkuze campsite as it is never full. There is always a shady spot to find, and the ground is flat. The ablutions are passable – just need to chase up about hot water at times. Power is erratic too. Sometimes it is available 5am to 8am and again at 5pm to 10pm – depends on reminding them to run the generator.
The lower ablutionsSpaceAnimals are welcomeAfrispoor WildcatAfrispoor Wildcat
The Park has 2 entrances. One on the east (Opansi Gate) and another on the west side (Mshopi Gate).
The campsite is at the entrance on the west of the park at the Mshopi Gate entrance. Other accommodation is at Mantumo – almost halfway between the two gates. Other accommodation includes Chalets, Huts and a Fixed Tents with your own ablutions and cooking facilities.
The campsite always has loads of birds. Calls to wake you up in the morning. There are also some special species and on occasion you get a bird party close-by in the scrub next to your camp.
Now this was mid-winter yet the car did not agree.
34C mid-winter – unbelievably hot. I wonder what summer temperature has in store for us.
So, we spent time driving around (with aircon on to keep cool) and stopping at the various hides. Nsumo Pan was full and windy so there was not much to see there. But a lone Lesser Flamingo was seen on the far side. An African Fish-Eagle flew over with its catch. A White-breasted Cormorant checked out the lesser Flamingo and a Goliath Heron and a Great Egret glided past.
African Fish-Eagle with lunchLookout Tower Just south of Mantumo CampGoliath HeronWhite-breasted Cormorant and Lesser FlamingoLesser FlamingoGreat Egret
Elsewhere on our drives around the Game Reserve we saw a number of inteeresting birds.
African HoopoeAfrican HoopoeAfrican StonechatBateleurBlack-winged KiteCape StarlingCape Starling looking angryCape StarlingFiscal FlycatcherGiraffe encapsulating an ImpalaThis is an Ootheca – egg capsule of a praying mantis. Thanks Dave Rimmer.Little Bee-eaterLilac-breasted RollerMalachite KingfisherStriped kingfisherStriped KingfisherBurchell’s Zebra being groomed by Red-billed Oxpeckers
There are two hides where we spend a lot of time. They are very active with both aminals and birds at various times of the day. The two hides are kuMasinga and Malibala. The latter is closest to the campsite. Ku Masinga is quite central and is south of the Mantumo main camp.
We have found that the birds are most active at kuMasinga hide around midday. Aminals appear at any time when they are thirsty.
As you enter the hide, looking left, there is a small tree/bush- leaning right – close to the water’s edge. This is the secure waiting spot for the birds (especially the small ones) before they chance a drink at the water’s edge. They congregate at the water’s edge together for safety.
Acacia Pied BarbetGreen-winged PytiliaSouthern Masked WeaverSouthern Red BishopsCrested BarbetGrey HeronCommon WaxbillRed-billed Oxpeckers – bath-timeDark-capped Bulbuls and View from Hide showing the broken bush on the left where the birds congregatedPurple-crested TuracoRed-faced MousebirdRed-billed Oxpeckers drying offGrey WaxbillBlue, Grey and Common Waxbills and an unidentified SunbirdAccacia Pied Barbet – often hard to get close to for a photo.Common and Grey Waxbills, Green-winged Pytilia Grey Waxbills, a pair of Green-winged Pytilia, Collared Sunbird and Dark-capped BulbulRed-faced Mousebird, Dark-capped BulbulRed-faced and Speckled MousebirdsPurple-crested TuracoAfrican HoopoeRed-faced Mousebird leading a Blue Waxbill and Yellow-bellied GreenbulBlue and Grey Waxbill, a pair of Green-winged Pytilia, Collared Sunbird Grey WaxbillGrey Waxbills, a pair of Green-winged Pytilia, Collared Sunbird Purple-crested TuracosCape Starling and a Common WaxbillEastern Golden WeaverGrey and Common WaxbillBlue WaxbillDark-capped Bulbul, Jameson’s Firefinches and Common WaxbillsRed-faced Mousebirds
And then there is the Malibala Hide. We enjoyed this hide often as it is the closest to the campsite. Midday and late afternoons were the best for both birds and aminals.
Yellow-bellied GreenbulView from Malibala hideAfrican Black Duck appeared at dusk as we were preparing to leave the hide.White Rhino arrived late one eveningNyala – young male and femaleWhite RhinoWater Thick-kneeSpotted Thick-kneeKuduYellow-billed HornbillKuduNyala – young maleWater Thick-kneeAfrican Black Duck – very unexpectedA stack of TerrapinsNyala – young male and femalesGrey DuikerGoodbye sunWhat are they?Water Thick-kneesNyala – young maleRed-billed Oxpecker beak KuduSpotted Thick-kneeView from Malibala hide
Then one morning we had the unfortunate sighting of a Nightjar which had been run over during the night.
That summarises our experiences in Mkuze Game Reserve during our stay. However, one morning we visited Zamanga Gardens – some 6kms north beyond the turnoff to Mkuze Town on the M2.
Zamanga Gardens
Saturday 13th July 2024
Such an impressive display of Aloes. The garden is huge approximately 6 hectares I would guess. There was also a large variety of Sunbirds in their different stages of plumage amongst the aloes. And because of this, positive identification of the Sunbirds was a big challenge.
Here is a video trying to show you the extent of the gardens. Clusters of aloes are everywhere.
And here is a slideshow of the aloes.
Birds making an appearance among the aloes were in constant motion, moving quickly between one flower and the next. Various Sunbirds and a Thick-billed Weaver shown here. Photos of the Neergaard’s Sunbird male were too poor to show.
Scarlet-chested SunbirdThick-billed WeaverPurple-banded Sunbird – short beakPurple-banded SunbirdThick-billed Weaver?? Juvenile male Variable Sunbird???Marico Sunbird – long beakMarico Sunbird – long beakWhite-bellied SunbirdWhite-bellied SunbirdScarlet-chested SunbirdFemale Marico Sunbird??
In total we identified 106 different bird species in Mkuze and Zamanga Gardens. Click on the link following to see our list.
On our way back to Howick and home, we stopped off in St. Lucia for 3 nights. Camping at Sugarloaf in St. Lucia.
Sugarloaf camp.
Birdlife in the camp is always good. It is a pleasure to wake up and hear such a variety of bird calls. The challenge is to ID the calls. Animals are spotted too, Banded Mongooses and Small Buck in particular.
Banded MongooseRed-capped Robin-Chat – otherwise called the RC RC bird.Banded Mongoose
Since the Rhino Card is no longer accepted to enter Isimangaliso Wetlands, it is more expensive to enter on a daily basis. Cheaper to stay at Cape Vidal campsite if you intend to stay 3 nights or more as you only pay entry fees once. The advantage of camping at Sugarloaf in St. Lucia is that you are very central with much quicker access to the estuary, Western Shores of Isimangoliso and the Gwala Gwala trail.
At the estuary there were a large number of Swift Terns (Greater Crested Terns now) but they were the only Terns present. Among them there were a few Kelp Gulls and six African Oystercatchers.
The Tern roost across the estuaryCloser to the roost with the Terns in the air5 of the 6 African Oystercatchers5 of the 6 African OystercatchersGreat Crested TernsGreat Crested TernsKelp Gull – juvenileKelp Gull – adult with a Great Crested Tern in front.
On the way to the roost, we had some interesting sightings. The first of which was a lone Cape Cormorant.
Cape Cormorant.
Looking out to sea we observed a pair of Cape Gannets flying past. An adult below the juvenile.
Cape Gannets
Along the shoreline we spotted a Little Egret, White-fronted Plovers, and among an area along the estuary showing a reedy edge, there were Curlew Sandpipers and a Malachite Kingfisher with an erratically unique hairstyle.
Looking northReedy edge along the estuaryLittle EgretLittle EgretWhite-fronted PloverWhite-fronted PloverCurlew SandpipersCurlew SandpiperMalachite KingfisherMalachite Kingfisher with a mad hairdo
Then we had another aerial display from a Western Osprey.
Western Osprey
On the way back to the campsite we came across some unusually large bird tracks. Maybe you can ID the bird?
This gives you an idea of size.
The Isimangoliso Wetland was truly waterlogged. Free standing water was everywhere you went. For this time of the year – July – we had never seen Park like this. Indeed, even in the rainy season we have not seen it so. This made for some good close-by sightings in both the Western and Eastern Shores sections of the Isimangoliso Wetland Park.
We happened to visit the Western Shores on a rainy overcast day. Birding as you might expect was quiet. However, we had some nice sightings: White-backed Ducks, a Martial Eagle on a nest and a curious Eastern Nicator that not only was a few metres away but was not inclined to fly off.
African StonechatA lump of HipposHamerkopHamerkopHamerkopMartial Eagle on nestMartial Eagle on nestMartial Eagle on nestMalachite KingfisherEastern NicatorEastern NicatorEastern NicatorEastern NicatorPipit ?White-backed DuckWhite-backed DuckWattled Lapwing
A very short clip of Buffaloes enjoying a swim. Click on the photo.
Buffaloes enjoying a swim
Lake Bengazi was full to the brim. We stopped at one of the pull over stops on the causeway and Sally took this video to show how full it was. Normally when we have visited, the water was a good 100 metres away from where Sally was standing.
Lake Bengazi
Then there was the Eastern Shores and the road close to the Amazibu hide. Again, water beside the road everywhere we went. Amazibu hide was our first destination. We went to see the Rufous-bellied Herons which have been showing well for a long time now.
However, on the way there we stopped overlooking a wetland area beside the road – loads of Spoonbills together feeding with the typical sweeping action of their bill. There was also a Squacco Heron and a Great Egret present. A Reed Cormorant was watching carefully from its perch.
Wetland full of SpoonbillsSpoonbillsSpoonbillSpoonbill showing what its open clackers look likeGreat Egret and Squacco HeronSquacco HeronSquacco heron
And then we got to the Amazibu Hide and a Rufous-bellied Heron appeared just as we were about to leave.
A short distance further along from the hide was another stretch of water beside the road. In fact on both sides of the road. However, it was the wetland on our right that blew us away with the number and variety of waterbirds present. There were Blue-billed and Red-billed Teals, African Jacanas, White-backed Ducks, many Pygmy Geese – never seen them in such numbers in Isimangoliso before.
And then another Rufous-bellied Heron popped up right next to us beside the road, followed by another a little further along.
Of course, there were other birds about, but these are the special ones we recorded on film.
Although we did not record a lot of different species of birds, this was not unexpected as the weather was poor and the time of year was not in our favour. What we did see were a number of special species.
In all we identified 85 different bird species. You can download our list below to see what we saw.
And so we left Satara on an overcast and slightly dribbly day. We headed for Tshokwane and then directly to Lower Sabie.
We love seeing herds of elephants but are nervous when they appear in the middle of the road while we are towing our Wildcat. As is usually the case they then appear behind as well – coming towards you. Reversing is not an option.
Really, we were not that close!!
Camp was set up in a convenient spot.
We had a pair of White-browed Robin-Chats (Heuglin’s) chorus us each morning always from the same spot in the bush.
One day we took a drive on the back roads around the Mlondozi Picnic site, all the way to Tshokwane and down to Skukuza. The weather continued to be wet and overcast. Days like that sometimes bring out the unusual – like a family of Shelley’s Francolins.
Shelley’s FrancolinShelley’s FrancolinA rather wet African StonechatShelley’s Francolin
On another day we headed for Skukuza and the hide at Lake Panic. We took the two detours along the H1-4 Lower Sabie to Skukuza .
You can see where there used to be a river crossing in the background.
A Baboon sat on the road using his guile and jaw strength to rip into a sausage pod from a Sausage tree. Persistence pays off obviously. Watch.
The birdlife was very quiet at the Lake Panic hide.
View from the hideA skulking Giant Kingfisher An amazing African Fish-Eagle
However, Sunset Dam did not disappoint. Apart from the antics of the hippos and the length of the crocodiles, birdlife was abundant.
Brown-hooded KingfisherBlack-crowned TchagraBlack-winged StiltBlack-winged StiltA rather long crocodileElephantsRed-billed Buffalo-Weaver nestsPied KingfisherStriated HeronWood SandpiperStriated HeronStriated Heron branching outStriated Heron branching outStriated Heron branching out
A Yellow-billed Stork showed how it uses its wings to move around quickly chasing dinner in the water.
Surprisingly, we saw several pairs of White-crowned Lapwings in Sunset Dam as well as near the main bridge crossing lower Sabie. In the past we had only ever seen them in the north of the Park around Pafuri.
White-crowned Lapwing.
On one of the back roads, we noticed a Secretarybird way ahead of us. As I was about to take a photo, a car came over the hill and it took off towards us fortunately.
Secretarybird attempting to get into the air.
We did come across several Lion sightings – a mating pair in one instance and a pride lying across the road with the usual traffic jam. We also saw briefly our only Cheetah and took a video of a Hyena walking by.
CheetahWaiting for her man.Male Lion recuperatingMale Lion recuperatingLioness keeping him at bay for the momentLioness resting between sessionsLioness tarting upScrawny male with mates on the roadA gemorse of traffic.
Hyena
Hyena with wounded back.
Raptors
Several Brown Snake-Eagles, Martial Eagle
Brown Snake-Eagle with snakeBrown Snake-Eagle coming at usBrown Snake-Eagle coming at us – getting closerBrown Snake-Eagle almost upon us.Brown Snake-EagleStaring us down yMartial EagleMartial Eagle
And here are some of the other species we managed to capture.
Sally and Paul enjoying a sundowner at the Berg-e-dal bar.
After driving around the camp for ages looking for a spot, we eventually settled on a site we had first seen. And we enjoyed the privacy and outlook.
Our outlookLaid back into the bushAblutions far enough away.
We ventured around the area but also took a long day out to Pretoriuskop – taking the H2-2 from Afsaal to Pretoriuskop. Then back along the S1-1 and H3, visiting dams and other features along the way.
Typical scenery.
The Dome near Pretoriuskop on the S10Impala LilyTransport DamShitlhave Dam – H1-1Shitlhave Dam – H1-1More rain down south of the Park so the grasses were tallerMathekeyane GranokopMathekeyane Granokop tea break.
A natural rubbing post for Warthogs and Rhinos usually.
Very Finger-looking good.
Along the way we had some lovely birds too. A pair of African Hawk-Eagles, a Gabar Goshawk, a Black-winged Kite high above and a Martial Eagle were the raptors which stood out. Of course there was an unidentified raptor photographed as well. An ear-torn Hyena walked up to us and a pair of Vervet Monkeys were nervous of life above in Pretoriuskop. Even a Hooded Vulture made an appearance.
Then there was a sighting of Yellow-billed Oxpeckers on a Giraffe. There range has extended well.
We even found some Rhinos – our first for the trip!
Around the camp we were also treated to some fine species.
African Green PigeonAfrican Green PigeonView to the dam below the barBuffaloBrown AccreaCrested FrancolinGrey HornbillGroundscraper ThrushPale FlycatcherPearl-spotted OwletThree-banded SandpiperViolet-backed Starling – femaleA camp visitor – now you see him —.
And eventually it was time to return home.
And this was the scene as we passed Barberton. The Tebushina were flowering.
Click on the following link to see a list of the birds we identified on our trip. In all different bird species.
A single Mascarene Martin was spotted near Mount Moreland earlier this week (June 10th 2024). Only the second time it has been reported in South Africa. It is a bird which comes from Madagascar to the coastal area of Mozambique in the winter.
Anyway, Sally and I decided on Thursday lunchtime to see if it was still around. We got there around 15h15 and joined the crowd patiently awaiting and hopeful for an appearance.
We planned to stay over in Durban and get a better chance to see it in the morning.
Much to our surprise it suddenly appeared on the line close to us at 16h30 among all the Brown-throated Martins. Great sighting as it hung around for about 40 minutes – on the line just above us.
Took loads of photos into the sun. Should have the sun behind us in the morning so we planned to go back.
Despite no news of it being present this morning, we returned ever hopeful of some better photos of the bird with the sun behind us.
There was a large crowd present. most had been there since first light. We waited. And waited eventually leaving at 10h00. Most of the crowd had already left to get to work.
Sadly it was a no show for everyone. Hey, that’s birding.
Here are some of the pics I managed to get of the bird – but one is not what it seems. Which is it and what is it? It is among the Mascarene Martins which have not been labelled. Click on the birds for a better view.
African StonechatBlack Saw-wingBrown-throated MartinBrown-throated MartinBrown-throated MartinGrey Crowned CraneKlass’s CuckooLesser Striped Swallow with large red rumpBlack SparrowhawkBlack SparrowhawkWire-tailed SwallowWire-tailed SwallowWire-tailed Swallow