Have your say. Identify each of the sunbirds in the following photos. All seen in Hillcrest, Durban. When you enlarge each photo there is a box below it where you should write that bird’s ID.
Our original plan was to stay 3 nights camping at each camp – Crocodile Bridge, then Satara, Tsendze Bush Camp, Balule, Skukuza and Berg-en-dal. Unfortunately this was cut short due to the flooding and we left after 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge and Satara and 2 nights at Tsendze.
The journey to the Swazi border and through Swazi passed off uneventfully and we made good time although there were a few potholes to be essentially missed between Big Bend and the turnoff to Siteki.
Between the exit from Swaziland and Komatiport there were 3 sets of roadworks – each quite long but we were lucky at each and did not have to wait long – perhaps because we were looking for an excuse to have a cup of tea from our picnic basket.
Altogether from home in Hillcrest, Durban to Crocodile Bridge took us less than 8.5 hours – about 640 kms with 4 essential stops including 2 for diesel.
White-backed Vulture
Our main goal in the Crocodile Bridge area was to try and find the reported White-throated Bee-eaters along the S25. So off we set the first afternoon (after setting up camp). European Bee-eaters were aplenty and we saw the odd Carmine but no White-throated. Birds were plentiful however and in the three days there we notched up 135 different species – probably the most interesting being a Western Osprey, Lesser Grey Shrikes, Brown-hooded Parrots, Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks, White-crowned Lapwings and several Garden Warblers. The Garden Warblers were heard in the Lower Sabie entrance, along the road to the S28 from Lower Sabie and then at the hide along the S28. None was seen clearly unfortunately.
Woodland Kingfishers were calling -it seemed from every tree, Red-backed Shrikes were numerous and European Rollers everywhere and of course the Rattling Cisticolas were giving their all in their various styles. This was true everywhere we visited.
Rattling Cisticola
European Roller
European Roller
Woodland Kingfisher
Red-backed Shrike
An aside: We were unable to get onto the Lower Sabie decking overlooking the river because Mugg & Bean are revamping the restaurant. There was no indication as to when it was due to open.
Some bird photos:
Hippo heading for a raging river
Hippos fighting
Lappet-faced Vulture
Lesser Grey Shrike
Lilac-breasted Roller
Lion – male
Lioness
Lions – sleeping it off!
Magpie Shrike
Malachite Kingfisher
Martial Eagle
Martial Eagle
Mystery Raptor
Natal Spurfowl
Purple Roller
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver
Sabota Lark
Spectacled Weaver
Steenbok
Swainson’s Spurfowl
Terrapin looking for water
Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl
Wahlberg’s Eagle
Waterbuck – challenging
White Storks
White-browed Scrub-Robin
White-crowned Lapwing
White-fronted Bee-eater
Wire-tailed Swallow
Wood Sandpiper
African Fish-Eagle
African Green Pigeons
African Pied Wagtail
African Spoonbill
Amur Falcon – female
Bateleur – juvenile
Black-backed Jackal
Black-shouldered Kite
Brown Snake-Eagle
Brown Snake-Eagle
Brown-headed Parrot
Brown-headed Parrot
Buffalo – rather concerned about us.
Butterfly – which one
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark
Common Sandpiper
Crowned Lapwing
European Bee-eater & European Roller
European Bee-eaters
Giant Kingfisher – male
Giraffe – hobbling youngster
Golden Orb Web Spider
Green-backed Heron
Grey Hornbill
European Bee-eaters
Carmine Bee-eater
Then there was the weather. First night pouring rain followed by an overcast and dribbly day and night. The second full day was cool, overcast but dry – until evening. We had dinner comfortably outside. Sitting there hearing the weather approach discussing this and that when a bushbaby suddenly appeared on the pole in front of us – not 3 feet away. So Tiny. Looking straight at us for a long time. We remained motionless transfixed – or whatever. Desperate to try and take a photo but fearful any movement would scare it away. It went to the ground beside us then appeared to fly a good 10 feet back in front of us and out of view – a truly amazing sight. “Flew” is the only word we could use to describe the action we saw.
Then the heavens let loose all night it seemed. A constant battering of water on our roof – for hours. Fortunately we had a second insulating layer over our rooftop tent and we remained dry. Packing up the next day was a challenge with the ground soaking wet – somehow we managed.
Off we headed for Satara via Lower Sabie and Tshokwane – overcast and cool and dry – luckily for us.
Just north of Crocodile Bridge is a small dam. From the bridge the dam wall can be seen with a pond or two – normally – beneath either side of the bridge. But when we got there it was a raging torrent!! The water level on the lower side was almost to the top of the dam!
Dam at Crocodile Bridge – overflowing wildly.Crocodile Bridge Dam – powerfully going downstream.
About 10 kms short of Lower Sabie, just after the turnoff to the S28 (north), there is another bridge overlooking a tranquil pond or two if you are fortunate normally. Another raging torrent!! Never seen anything like it. An amazing transition from the day before.
Normally a serene pond with a little water sometimesNormally a little pond – with water raging down river
As we continued north so the weather seemed to improve and we were hopeful that this would be the last of the torrential rain. Between Lower Sabie and Tshokwane we settle into a pleasant tootle alongside the open plains. We stop for a picture shoot of a pair of Red-breasted Swallows – not to be. They flew off as I was about to press the shutter – why does that always happen!
However in the distant view was what appeared to be a Black-shouldered Kite. Then we realised it was quartering the grassland – definitely a Harrier – an exciting Harrier- Montagu’s or Pallid? As it came closer we were able to see that it was a Pallid – unfortunately the photo we got was poor but clearly shows which it was. We would have loved to have chased it down the road but it was too much of a challenge to turn round with the trailer in tow.
Pallid Harrier
Along the road we also saw Hooded and White-headed Vultures to compliment our viewings of the Lappet-faced and more common White-backed which we had seen earlier in several locations.
White-headed VultureHooded Vulture
Before we get to Tshokwane we decided to deviate to Leeupan and Silolweni Dam on the way to Skukuza. Silolweni is closed due to blue-green algae. Leeupan – an old favourite – despite the rains was overgrown and not much water was visible – however six Southern Ground Hornbills made an appearance on the way in to the Pan.
Southern Ground Hornbill
Tea at Tshokwane and on to Satara. Little did we realise that the next day there would be a raging river of water across the main road at Tshokwane cutting the park in two.
We settle in to the Satara campsite – eventually finding a shady site. Soggy camping gear – yuk but despite the weather things soon dried out – smells and all!
All appears well with the world and we settle into peaceful sleep. Midnight and the heavens open once again. Our campsite is a soggy mess underfoot yet again! Thoughts of going home abound!
The morning starts with a glorious red sunrise – great light. I know….. Red sky in the morning etc.
Sunrise Satara
Despite our doom and gloom we decide to try some birding and head along the S100 – having first dug a channel to drain our site!
Birding again, relaxation sets in and we enjoy the moment. Not too much activity then we pull into a short loop and stop. Activity in the large fig tree – but what is it. Yes, a Cuckoo – great. Which. Not sure. There it is – can we get a photo. Looking in to the sun – try anyway. Fortunately it moves and gives us a better sighting – African or Common Cuckoo? Much ado. We check the bill and get the distinct impression that it is quite yellow at the base – African we think. Then again is the plumage tatty or in good nick? I will leave you to decide. Tatty it means African. But the telling detail we believe is the barred undertail coverts. So finally we conclude Common. See what you think.
Common or African Cuckoo?
Common or African Cuckoo?
Common or African Cuckoo?
Common or African Cuckoo?
Ah but there is more. What is that – another Cuckoo and another. The tree must be teeming with caterpillars. The first a Jacobin. The next a male Diedrik’s but what is this – a female Diedrik’s or Klaas’s? Your choice – see photos into the sun unfortunately!
Jacobin Cuckoo
Cuckoo – which juvenile/female is this?
Cuckoo – which juvenile/female is this?
On we go – a pleasant loop to the north and along the way we find Amur Falcons, Lesser Kestrel – females, a Peregrine Falcon and an unidentified juvenile Goshawk – suspiciously like a Gabar to me – see photos.
Lesser Kestrel – female
Goshawk – which
Goshawk – which
Amur Falcon – male
Bliss – a night without a downpour.
The last full day at Satara we headed north for Timbavati picnic site. Great as virtually no traffic all the way to the turnoff from the main road heading towards Timbavati. Not a car had passed us.
After a while there are Sandgrouse on the road – several pairs – Double-banded. Out with the cameras as 2 cars draw up behind us – unbelievable. A quick few shots then we reluctantly let the cars past. Why does this always happen when you see something interesting we complain to each other.
Double-banded Sandgrouse
Double-banded Sandgrouse
Anyway we drive on and after no more than 1 km we observe some birds on the road bathing in a puddle at the road’s edge. We stop about 20 metres from them and notice that they are Magpie Shrikes and Wattled Starlings. At that point I get very excited and point out another bird – far more interesting than anything else we had seen so far. I carefully park the car across the road so we can observe unhindered through the open windows.
The bird calmly steps out a bit further into the road – still in the puddle and starts preening. Cameras shuttering, video taping and we watch the whole scenario for 20 minutes until it steps back into the rank grass. And to spite the axiom, not another car had arrived to spoil our day. It was a lifer for both Sally and me – see photos.
Corn Crake
Corn Crake
Corn Crake
Corn Crake
Corn Crake giving us a clue to his ID!!
Corn Crake
Corn Crake
Corn Crake
Corn Crake
Corn Crake
On we go to Ratelpan hide – very much on a high trying to ingest and appreciate what we had just witnessed.
The hide overlooked a subdued but still swift flowing Timbavati River. We enjoy a cup of tea and watch the few birds on the sand banks and round the hide. One bird, a Tawny-flanked Prinia was making his/her nest directly in front of us and we managed to get several photos of him/her in the nest.
Ratelpan hide view of Timbavati River
Ratelpan hide view of Timbavati River
Tawny-flanked Prinia- peek-a-boo
Tawny-flanked Prinia nest building
Then on the way back to the picnic site we find some monkeys playing at the roadside. Splat joined in their fun. One little monkey happened to be pure white – quite human like.
Splat
Vervet Monkey – pale phase
Vervet Monkey – looking rather human
Vervet Monkey – power to de nu people
At the picnic site we found an African Scops-Owl.
African Scops-Owl
Then we headed for the other hide near N’wanetsi – Sweni Hide – followed by lunch at the picnic site. Lo and behold 3 friends from the bird club (BLPN) – David & Tessa White and Sarah Burns turned up at the same time – small world. Here we see a Grey-headed Sparrow with a bit of a white throat and hardly any flashing in its wings – but which one, surely not a Northern – you decide, see photo:
Grey-headed Sparrow but which one?
On the way back to the camp we stopped at our “Cuckoo” tree from the day before and find it harbouring an Eurasian Golden Oriole – unfortunately a photo escaped us.
And that was the end of our birding around Satara. Altogether we had seen and or heard 128 different bird species. Some photos including one of a Pink-fronted Red-backed Shrike – presumably getting ready for the breeding season back home.
Woodland Kingfisher
Woodland Kingfisher
Yellow-throated Longclaw with Elephant building material
Yellow-throated Longclaw
African Mourning Dove
African Pipit
Bearded Woodpecker
Black Stork
Brown-headed Parrot
Brown-headed Parrots
Burchell’s Coucal
European Roller
Crocodile – large 4 metres+
Crocodile – small 2 to 3 metres
Crocodiles together – to show comparative sizes
Glorious morning sun
Golden Orb Web Spider
Grassland north of Satara
Greater Blue-eared Starling?
Green Woodhoopoes
Helmeted Guineafowl
Kori Bustard
Malachite Kingfisher
Malachite Kingfisher
Martial Eagle
Ostrich
Pink-fronted Red-backed Shrike
Plain-backed Pipit
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver
Red-billed Hornbill
Rivulet just north of Satara
Sabota Lark
Secretarybirds
Senegal Lapwing
Slender Mongoose
Slender Mongoose
Southern Red Bishop
Spotted Flycatcher
Thick-billed Weaver
Village Indigobird
White Stork
White-backed Vulture
White-crowned Shrike
Saturday morning and we discover that one of our intended camps – Balule was closed. So on our way to Tsendze Bush Camp we stop in at Letaba and alter our booking to stay there instead for those 3 nights. However this was not to be.
Excitement on the way north as we find an obliging Montagu’s Harrier perched quite close and a Eurasian Hobby at a little more distance – unfortunately both on the sunny side of the car making it difficult for decent photos.
Montagu’s Harrier
Eurasian Hobby
We arrive in Tsendze in sweltering sunshine and hear about all the flooding chaos further south – the main road to Tshokwane under a raging river of water cutting the access to the park in two. The Olifants River in full flow.
Olifants River in full flow
That afternoon we take a drive to the Shipandani Hide. The causeway immediately before the hide is far more interesting with a number of different birds on it – the bullying Lapsmiths, a pair of Hamerkops, Black Crakes, Goliath Heron (having a swim) and a Croc right at the side waiting for his chance. The next afternoon there were also a pair of Black Storks, a Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, the Black Crakes had 2 chicks in open display on the causeway, a Green-backed Heron appeared, as did a Common Sandpiper, 2 crocodiles and the star, a Little Bittern.
View from Shipandani Hide, nr. Mopani
View from Shipandani Hide, nr. Mopani
Lapsmith
Hamerkop
Green-backed Heron
Goliath Heron
Goliath Heron in for a swim
Black Stork
Black Stork
Black Crake – chick
Black Crake and chicks
Black Crake
Common Sandpiper
Crocodile Rock
On the way back we take the first River loop road and come across a short loop next to the Tsendze River. At first we thought it inactive birdwise but as we waited so the birds began to appear – and no-one else there to badger us along.
During the night we hear our first Fiery-necked Nightjar as well as a Pearl-spotted and a Barred Owlet.
We set off early the next day and head for the plains to the East of Mopani.
Sunrise Tsendze
We come across Wattled Starlings in their hundreds and Sally gets a great picture of the head of a Swainson’s Spurfowl.
Wattled Starlings
Wattled Starlings
Swainson’s Spurfowl
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks are everywhere. And we are treated to good views of several Dusky Larks hopping along the road in front of us.
Dusky Lark
Dusky Lark
Shibavantsegele Lookout was another special place teeming with numerous different species, but the best bird we saw there was a Grey-headed Kingfisher.
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Grey-headed Kingfisher up in arms!
Grootvlei Dam had a fair amount of water in it and we saw a number of new species including White-fronted and Kittlitz’s Plovers.
Grootvlei Dam
Kittlitz’s Plover – juvenile
On return we stop at the Tihongonyeni waterhole situated in a vast open plain. An elephant is consuming from the water storage tank, loads of different game are about as well as many different bird species. It was as if it were winter with little water to be found elsewhere. Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks were everywhere as were Red-capped Larks, Lapsmiths, Egyptian Geese, the odd Kittlitz’s Plover and African Pipit.
Thirsty Elephant at Tihongonyeni waterhole
Zebra
Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks
Kittlitz’s Plover – juvenile
Red-capped Lark
Red-capped Lark
Lapsmith
We return via the Tropic of Capricorn and of course Splat has to have his photo taken there.
Splat on Tour
Back at camp, we found that our solar panel was working well after all. We realised that the 40 degree temperature of the previous day had had its toll on the freezer performance -taking it up to zero degrees C – and it was not as a result of failing batteries or poor charging. Big relief.
In all we saw 94 different species in the area. Some other photos from around Tsendze:
European Bee-eater
European Bee-eaters
Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah
Red-crested Korhaan
Red-crested Korhaan
Red-crested Korhaan feathers
Sabota Lark
Wahlberg’s Eagle
White-winged Widowbird
That night the heavens open again and we get up to be treated to a mud bath beneath us and the rain still coming down. After an attempt to drive out of the rain towards Shingwedzi we realise it is fruitless and we return to Mopani to postpone the rest of our booking for another day.
This is a tiresome process as each camp has to be called and each reservation attendant has different ideas about what has to be done. Eventually Berg-en-dal helps by postponing our 3 days there until October.
So after getting our gate pass from Mopani we return to Tsendze camp to pack up. The rain abates but the ground is even more waterlogged beneath the trailer. Despite this we manage somehow. Our biggest headache was the groundsheet as it was sodden. Where to put it? Not in the car. So on the roof of the trailer it goes – in its cloth bag and with two dustbin liners over it. We pray it does not leak too much and soak our matress. Throughout this process the birds gave us a tuneful farewell – Firefinches sang around us, a male and female Black Cuckooshrike made an appearance and a Black-headed Oriole sang to us.
On our way out we stop in at Letaba to see if we can deal with that booking and perhaps Skukuza. We found the duty manager and he was very helpful though a little confused about what should exactly be done. After three quarters of an hour we get something sorted and end up having to redo the whole thing over on return home.
We plan to return home via Phalaborwa and to the N11. The scenery and high altitude passes were great but the Potholes were man size in places. It reminded us of our early days travelling in Mozambique.
A funny story. At our stopover one of the other guests shows us a picture in the Die Beeld newspaper – shown a month previously and again that day. In the photo you see a lady in a bikini washing her hair, drinking champagne sitting waist deep in a pothole. The nearby warning sign read “Potholes” and beneath it someone had put a second notice saying the usual rules you find in public swimming pools – No Diving; No Jumping etc.
Anyway despite the weather we had a very enjoyable birding experience seeing some amazing birds. Altogether 191 different species were seen and or heard throughout the Park.
Lake St Bernard is situated in East Gruiqualand – between Underberg and Kokstad and found after 24 kms on the D609 (heading west). Cottage No. 3 is situated right at the Lake’s edge with great panoramic views of the lake surrounded by mountains. There are 2 other cottages well spread out on the site.
Lake St Bernard – a panoramic view from the cottage.
Most people come here for the trout fishing – the reason why our friends, Sally and Chippy decided to stop here on their way to St Francis. Chippy is passionate about his fishing. We were fortunate that they asked us to join them for the three days at LakeSt. Bernard.
Driving in to the Lake, on the D609 rough road, we came across a large wetland area with numerous Sakabulas – Long-tailed Widowbirds – struggling with their enormously long bulbous tales.
Long-tailed Widowbird
Long-tailed Widowbird
Long-tailed Widowbird
Long-tailed Widowbird
After unpacking and some lunch the two Sallys and I set off to explore the waterfront while Chippy prepared for his afternoon of fishing. There were a number of water birds about as well as the odd raptor.
Mystery Raptor
Mystery Raptor
On return we found Chippy stuck in the reeds casting his rod – and it was not long before he started landing the Rainbow Trout. Unfortunately it is “catch and release” otherwise we would have had 5 large trout for dinner.
Chippy’s got a big one.
Chippy’s first – not bad after 5 minutes!
Chippy’s first – not bad after 5 minutes!
Not bad old boy!
Well done Chippy!
Chippy’s now got a small one.
Chippy’s got a whopper
Now that’s a biggie. Well done Chippy.
Fishing is obviously quite an art with colourful flies “woolly buggers – green, white and red”, “Olive Red Eyed Damsels”, “Black Zonkers”, “White Death” to name a few all to catch the cockfish and hens. (You need to learn patience, a whole new language and have nimble big fat fingers to boot!).
The birds around the Lake were plentiful including dozens of Hadeda Ibis; Spur-winged and Egyptian Geese; Black-headed Herons; Blacksmith Lapwings (Lapsmiths for short); Pied Startlings; Ant-eating Chats as well as Banded Martins; Barn, Greater Striped and White-throated Swallows; Cape Longclaw; Cape Weavers; Jackal and Steppe Buzzards.
White-throated Swallow
African Black Ducks
Ant-eating Chat
Ant-eating Chat
Banded Martin
Black-headed Heron
Cape Sparrow – juvenile – we think?
Cape Wagtail
Cape Weaver – what a manic look
Common Fiscal
Pied Starling
Pied Starling
For us it was up early each day and in the vehicle to explore the area in search of birds. On the first morning out we visited the St Bernard’s Peak Mountain Lodge to check out the birds in their grounds – instead we ended up climbing part of the mountain behind the lodge – looking for the mountain specials. We were not disappointed as we saw Cape Vulture, Cape Rock-Thrush, Bokmakerie, Buff-streaked and what we think is a pair of Familiar Chats – or could they be Sickle-winged Chats – see photos.
St Bernard’s Peak Mountain Lodge
Looking down on the Lodge
Hard going in a small car.
Malachite Sunbird
Levaillant’s Cisticola
Lapsmith
Jackal Buzzard
Little Grebe – very little
Hamerkop
Greater Striped Swallow
Greater Striped Swallow with mud
Giant Kingfisher – male
Familiar Chat ??
Familiar Chat ??
Cape Rock-Thrush
Buff-streaked Chat
Buff-streaked Chat
Buff-streaked Chat
Bokmakierie
Yellow-billed Kite
Yellow Bishops
Steppe Buzzard
Speckled Mousebird
Red-winged Starling
Pin-tailed Whydah
In the afternoon we drove some of the by-roads and came across a secluded amphitheatre of mountains – green, imposing and enthralling. The rivers were flowing and there were wetlands everywhere.
On the way we came across this most unusual bird sitting by the road.
Emu on the side of the road
Emu on the side of the road
Emu on the side of the road
Grey-crowned Cranes entertained us, Amur Falcons were on all the power lines and we managed to see other lovely species including Yellow Bishop.
Amur Falcon – female
Amur Falcon – female
Grey-crowned Cranes
Grey-crowned Cranes
Grey-crowned Cranes
Yellow Bishops
The final full day, Sally and I drove a bit further afield in search of alternate habitats but in this area the landscape was pretty constant for miles. However we did come across another large lake with Whiskered Tern, White-backed Ducks, Cape Shoveller and tens of Red-knobbed Coots. Further on we came upon a Black-shouldered Kite with his catch and on the way back a Drakensberg Prinia calling like mad.
White-breasted Cormorant
Cape Longclaw
Cape Longclaw
Cloud Cisticola
Drakensberg Prinia
Drakensberg Prinia
Fork-tailed Drongo – not!
Helmeted Guineafowl
Jackal Buzzard
Pied Starling
Southern Grey-headed Sparrow
Southern Red Bishop
Southern Red Bishop
White-backed Duck
African Shelducks
Black Shouldered Kite and catch
We did come across a couple of unusual birds – an Amur Falcon with a blonde head and a Common Fiscal (we believe) with a dark front.
Common Fiscal with dark front and grey back
Common Fiscal with dark front and grey back
Amur Falcon with pale rufous head
Amur Falcon with pale rufous head
In all we saw and or heard 75 different bird species.
Finally it was time to leave – up early as usual. Sally and Chippy headed south for St Francis and their house on the northern bank of the Krom river (Hudsonian Godwit land at present).
For us it was back to Durban and to prepare for our departure for the Kruger two days later – Crocodile Bridge and maybe a chance to find the White-throated Bee-eaters if they are still there.
On the way out we were treated to the sight of a Diedrick’s Cuckoo in the misty wetlands – also a sunny Cape Longclaw.
Khangela Lodge is located in the Kuleni Game Park. The turnoff to Kuleni is on the left about 15 kms from Hluhluwe railway crossing on the way towards Sodwana – just past Badenhorst Broedery on the left.
Kuleni Game Park
The lodge consists of a communal lounge, dining area and kitchen with a deck and pool overlooking a private waterhole. Then there are 3 free-standing double bed rooms each with their own bathroom including an extra outdoor shower.
Khangela Lodge Deck, pool and communal area.
Khangela Lodge Pool
Khangela Lodge – 2 of the 3 bedrooms.
Waterhole viewed from the Deck
The Kuleni Game Park habitat is predominantly coastal sand forest interspersed with the odd waterhole and grassland areas. There are a number of walking trails through the bush.
Heron Trail
Owl Trail
Eagle Trail
Central Park Meander
Bird hide and waterhole found on the Central Park Trail.
Waterhole from the deck of another Lodge.
Sally and I visited friends there and prepared a bird list for them – based solely on what we saw and or heard during the three days that we were there. In all we accounted for 72 different bird species. (We were told that the total bird list for Kuleni was over 300 species). Most of our birding was done on foot. Each morning we were up with the sparrows leaving the lodge at 05h30. The first day we circled the outer edges of the game park – taking just over 3 hours. On the other days we explored several of the trails also taking over 3 hours.
Animals are free to roam throughout the Park. There are none of the big five but Giraffe, Warthog, Nyala, Wildebeest, Kudu, Zebra & Impala are regularly seen. of course there are many butterflies to be seen too.
Giraffe – free to wander anywhere in the Park.
Red Duiker
Warthog
Citrus Swallowtail
Mocker Swallowtail
Mocker Swallowtail
Some of the special birds we recorded included:
All three Apalises, African Emerald & Red-chested Cuckoo, Southern-banded Snake-Eagle, Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatcher, African Pygmy & Striped Kingfisher, Green Malkoha, Eastern Nicator, Fiery-necked Nightjar, Bearded & Brown Scrub-Robin, Black Sparrowhawk, Grey Sunbird & Purple-banded Sunbird in partial eclipse plumage, Green & Pink-throated Twinspots, Grey Waxbill.
Birds we were lucky enough to be able to photograph include:
I think it is quite usual for the White Storks to be around at this time of the year, but they are usually found a few hundred metres to the south on the Marianhill Landfill Site. I have seen them there a few times, and I was there this morning. I didn’t bother to count them, (difficult to count against the matching black and white bits of plastic) but I would say a good hundred or so. Not exactly the same awesome sight as the Edgewood College grounds! There were at least as many YBK’s too, and a number of Woolly Necks – but that is all year round.
These are pictures I took almost exactly 3 years ago at Marianhill Landfill Site.
Try counting these birds!
Weather – Generally overcast with temps around 32C . If the sun did come out in full, temps jumped up into the 40ties.
Kruger camps – clean and tidy and staff pleasant and accommodating.
Late Afternoon near Satara
Birds IDed 161 with 3 lifers.
We decided to take Nick Norman’s advice from his book (GEOLOGY – OFF THE BEATEN TRACK exploring South Africa’s hidden treasures). We drove Gingindluvu to eMkhondo on R66/R34/R33. This is a far more direct route, easier driving without giant transport trucks & one can see a wealth of geology too.
We had an overnight stop in Hazyview & then through Bushbuckridge to enter Kruger at Orpen Gate. We were immediately amazed at the lush green bush & golden grasses of a wet mid-summer.
Our first VERY exciting observation was of a Burchell’s Starling feeding a sub-adult Great Spotted Cuckoo in the middle of the road.
Juvenile Great Spotted Cuckoo
Juvenile Great Spotted Cuckoo being fed by a Burchell’s Starling
The Letaba river and all the main streams and rivers were pretty full with loads of hippo. Yellow-billed, White and Saddle-billed Storks were plentiful as well as Openbills.
Yellow – billed Stork
Black Stork +Water Thicknee
Double-banded Sandgrouse
The Engelhart Dam was overflowing & Woodland Kingfishers seemed to be calling from every tree.
Woodland Kingfisher
We saw many Carmine Bee-eaters as well as a Great White Egret in breeding plumage with his emerald green eye & plumes off his rump.
Great Egret
Our first outing was a visit to Olifants Rest Camp & we had to change route twice due to low level crossings being flooded. The Olifants viewing sight provided us with our first experience of a full flowing Olifants river.
Rain overnight & overcast weather dropped the temperatures to the 30s for the rest of our trip.
En route to Satara we stopped at Timbavati where the guard pointed out a Scops Owl sleeping in a huge Boer-bean tree.
Scops Owl
European Rollers were far more common than the Lilac-breasted Rollers.
European Roller
It seems that some birds flock this time of the year especially with the heavy rains -Blacksmiths Lapwings & Three-banded Plovers were frequently seen in large flocks, especially next to the wet roads.
A drive to Nwanetsi for a cooked breakfast is compulsory & we saw Southern Ground Hornbill as well as Kori Bustard on the way.
Southern Ground-Hornbill
Sweni Hide was not as rewarding as usual, due to it being filled to capacity but this did set up a photo opportunity with a family of Thick-billed Weavers as well as Green backed herons.
Juvenile Thick-billed Weaver
We drove south for the last 3 nights at Byamiti where we had our first sightings of Red-backed Shrikes & Lesser Grey Shrikes.
We experienced a sight of White Storks & Carmine Bee-eaters feeding opportunistically while hovering above a herd of Impala.
Beautiful Kruger scene
In general we saw or heard most of the cuckoos but seeing the Common Cuckoo was exciting as this was a lifer.
Could not resist the targeted backsides of 3 Waterbuck!
Waterbuck
In general we saw lots of raptors, Bateleur being most common and also many large flocks of vultures. Also seen frequently were Brown & Black-chested Snake-Eagles , Wahlberg’s , African Harrier Hawk, African Fish Eagle, Lesser Spotted and Tawny Eagle.
On a drive to Crocodile Bridge on our last day we came across a pack of Wild Dogs on the road. As we hadn’t seen any cats this was very rewarding. (Most other visitors had seen cats on numerous occasions).
Our last special sighting were Senegal Lapwings near CrocodileBridge which was a lifer for us & a great end to our holiday.
PS Anyone driving through Swaziland be warned as pot holes are very bad & beware of road works between Malelane & Nelspruit with 40min hold ups.
One of the residents at le Domaine – Di Wayne, took the following photo of a mystery duck seen on the property. The photo was taken 7 years ago and I thought it might still be of interest to our followers.
Sally and I have puzzled over its ID and believe it to be a female Wood Duck – native to North America.
We started off with 19 members and ended up with 27 (some late risers!!). Early in the morning the mist was lying over Shongweni but soon started to lift and turned into a lovely hot day’s birding. Our total bird count was 84. Thanks to Herman for leading the other group.
Shongweni Dam Wall with powerful overflow.
Shongweni Dam Wall with powerful overflow.
We had some great sightings and the bird of the day has to be the Osprey flying over the dam wall and down the river.
Western Osprey
Western Osprey
Western Osprey
No eagles! but we had Common Buzzards
Steppe Buzzard
African Harrier Hawks, YBK’s, White-necked Ravens and later on the Lanner Falcons appeared on the cliff face. We heard but did not see the Gorgeous and Orange-breasted Bush Shrikes. Rufous-napped Larks, Neddickys, Rattling Cisticolas, Twany-flanked Prinias called and displayed all morning. Some bird photos:
Black-headed Heron
African Black Ducks
African Pied Wagtail
Black-backed Puffback
Black-headed Heron
Black-headed Heron
Common Sandpiper
Lurking Lanner Falcon
Mocking Cliff-Chats
Rufous-naped Lark
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Trumpeter Hornbill
Willow Warbler
Yellow-fronted Canary
White-breasted Cormorant,
As well as a number of Butterflies and another creature.
Butterfly
Butterfly
Brown Veined White
False Dotted Border
Spider
African Common White – perhaps?
African Common White – perhaps?
We had a Dideric Cuckoo begging to be fed by ‘Mama’ Village Weaver, the cuckoo fluttering and squawking and chasing after Ma demanding food whilst poor Ma was desperately hunting for ‘tidbits’ for her monster chick!
Didrick’s Cuckoo – juvenile
Later on we walked to the ‘giant’ steps but the birding was not too successful.
We then walked to the bottom of the dam wall & weir and picked up some nice stuff there. There was a mystery fledgling on a concrete block, maybe it was an Egyptian Goose but as Liz remarked where were the parents, normally Egypo’s are very protective of their chicks.
Egyptian Goose
Egyptian Goose
As the day was getting too hot we parked off under the shade of some trees and did a little ‘armchair’ birding – checking out the cliff face.
Thanks to Penny de Vries, Dave Rimmer, Herman Bos, John Bremner & Paul Bartho for the pics.
The following photos are of a Little Rush-Warbler doing his “helicopter” impression! Flying up 2 or 3 feet and down again. He must have done this at least 30 times, rising almost vertically and hovering for a second or so before landing and then repeating this every 10 seconds or so. He seemed totally relaxed about me standing quite close to him.
My Roberts’ states “ song sometimes followed by brief prrrr.prrrr wing-rattling flight display above sedges lasting 2-3 seconds.”
I will be interested in your comments about this behaviour.
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
Aerial Display sequence of a Little Rush-Warbler
I could not resist putting out the following 2 photos (also taken by Frank) of a Reed Cormorant and its chicks. Especially seeing the colour of the chicks’ heads.
Cumberland Private Nature Reserve is run by John and Stella Behn. They have chalets dotted around in the reserve, a large campsite and rooms at the top of the hill. All very reasonably priced. Note: if you book the campsite then only your party may share the whole campsite – irrespective of whether there are 2 of you or 20 and you are charged R60 per person. There is a female and male shower/toilet on site with good hot water. There is no power but you can rent the use of a campsite fridge.
There were 14 people on the Weekend Outing – joined by another 10 or so for the Sunday Outing.
Cumberland Nature Reserve
The weather played its part in making the outing successful – from a birding point of view. Friday was hot, hot hot. So those who arrived early did not get a lot of birding done. In fact it was best sitting in the shade of the campsite and watching the birds in the surrounding bush and stream. A late afternoon swim up on the hill by the rooms was a great way to cool off.
Overnight we had rain and Saturday morning started overcast, misty and cool – which brought out the warblers – Broad-tailed Warbler in particular.
Broad-tailed Warbler
The Saturday walk started at 05h30 in the campsite, progressed through the extensive picnic area and up the hill to the alternative accommodation area. There we were treated by Stella and John to tea or coffee and home-made cheese scones.
On the circular route back to the campsite it started to drizzle. Mike and Jane (the weekend outing leaders) decided that a break was in order and that we would meet at 10h30 at the “hide” next to the dam immediately outside the entrance gate. At first the birding seemed quiet with little on the dam. Then it all started to change. African Black Duck appeared, Common Moorhen, White-throated Swallows, an African Purple Swamphen, Malachite Kingfisher to name a few.
African Black Duck
African Paradise-Flycatcher
Malachite Kingfisher
White-throated Swallows
Black-headed Heron
Blacksmith Lapwing
Wandering upstream from the hide one bird in particular attracted us by its call. A Warbler. It was thought to be a Reed Warbler but we were unsure which one so we played the call to see if we could recognise it. It continued calling. Perhaps co-coincidently it stopped and remained quiet after we played the call of the Eurasian Reed Warbler. How we all would have liked to have had a positive ID on the bird. In the opinion of some the call was not as harsh or grating as the Great Reed Warbler nor as tuneful as the African Reed Warbler. Anyway we shall never know.
In the same area a Half-collared Kingfisher was spotted which seemed to be happy in the area with us about.
Half-collared Kingfisher
Further upstream, a Great Reed Warbler was spotted. Consequently many people felt that this must have been the bird which we had heard earlier, though as you might expect, there was disagreement amongst us.
Some photos of birds seen during the walk.
Brimstone Canary
Bronze Mannikin
Cape Batis
Cape Batis
Cape Grassbird
Cape Wagtail
Cardinal Woodpecker – juvenile male
Steppe Buzzard
Common Waxbill
Diedrick’s Cuckoo
Diedrick’s Cuckoo
Diedrick’s Cuckoos
Golden-breasted Bunting
Flycatcher?
Flycatcher?
Violet-backed Starling, female
Lazy Cisticola
Levaillant’s Cisticola, Norman Freeman
Long-crested Eagle
Long-crested Eagles
Mystery Bird – juvenile Cape Rock-Thrush??
Fan-tailed Widowbird??
Red-backed Shrike – male
Red-collared Widowbird
Red-collared Widowbird
Red-collared Widowbird
Red-collared Widowbird
Rufous-naped Lark
Southern Boubou
Southern Grey-headed Sparrow
Spotted Flycatcher
Spotted Flycatcher
Steppe Buzzard
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Wahlberg’s Eagle
Walhberg’s Eagle – juvenile
Which Weaver
White-bellied Sunbird
White-browed Scrub-Robin
Yellow-billed Kite
Black Flycatcher
And some Butterflies and other creatures.
Impala
Another Butterfly
Yet another Butterfly??
Which Butter-fly
Flutter-by?
Water Monitor
The rest of the afternoon we were left to our own devices, to recover from the previous evening braai in the campsite and to prepare for the one to come up the hill where a number of people were staying.
The rooms are in an excellent location right at the edge of the cliffs with fantastic views all round. We made good use of the facilities available to those staying in the rooms – a large kitchen and lounge plus outdoor covered patios with seating available for all. John and Stella joined us for the braai – again for some a late night!
Sunday started overcast but dry. Another 10 people or so joined us at 07h00 as part of the Sunday Outing. We split into 2 groups and both parties headed down to the Horseshoe Bend of the Umgeni River. One group checked the campsite gorge while the other went on ahead.. Two Mountain Wagtails were seen flying through the gorge.
The birding was good in both groups with Pygmy-Kingfishers seen by both groups and Little Sparrowhawk by one group. Further excitement was to follow as we approached the Umgeni River.
African Pygmy-Kingfisher
One group, aware that there was a Python mound checked to see if there was any activity. And there we saw a 4 metre 15 cm diametre (at least) python basking in the sun. Stella told us there were two that size there and someone had sent them photos of 7 little ones. Three of us got as close as we could to take the following photos.
4 Metre Python
A rather large 4 metre Python
Python close up
Yet further down a Bearded Woodpecker was spotted and photographed. An incidental report will be sent to the Atlas Project.
Bearded Woodpecker
Bearded Woodpecker
On Horseshoe Bend is Horseshoe cottage where we relaxed. Some of us went to the river’s edge and saw a small crocodile.
Young Crocodile
That put paid to anyone’s intention to cool off in the river! Standing there on the edge, about 10 metres from us at the edge of the reeds, there was a sudden loud fluttering of a large bird scampering further downstream and darting back into the reeds. Those who saw the spectacle concluded that it was probably an African Finfoot – though none of us could be certain.
Some pictures of birds seen on the Sunday walk.
Amethyst Sunbirds – male and female
Amethyst Sunbird
African Pipit
African Firefinch
African Firefinch
White-browed Scrub-Robin
White-bellied Sunbird
Southern Black-Tit
Mystery Raptor
Mocking Cliff-Chats
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Mocking Cliff-Chat – male
Croaking Cisticola
Then is was the long trudge back up the hill to the campsite. Lunch and preparation of the bird list for the weekend. Then for some of us packing up our camp as we all headed home.