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Kruger Part 3 – Lower Sabie

Published on December 11, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part 3

Lower Sabie

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

14 to 18 November 2018

The next morning we left Malelane on our way very early to Lower Sabie for 4 nights.

We had not gone far on the tar when we were accosted by the same pack of 10 Wild Dogs that we had seen the previous evening. Again a lovely sighting with them surrounding our vehicle on their way to somewhere.

Our journey was mostly on the dirt roads – starting with the S25 towards Byamiti before heading north to Lower Sabie.

Animal sightings were few and far between. No Buffalos, no Rhinos and a paucity of Elephants. A remarkable contrast to the previous two days.

We beetled along the S25 reaching the Byamiti bridge in quick time. On approaching the bridge a large male Leopard strolled towards us in the river bed. Our bit of excitement for the day – very unexpected yet it was not for long before he had disappeared into the bush and gone before anyone else came along.

Once we were on the tar of the H4-2 (Croc Bridge to Lower Sabie) we headed north and on approaching the S82 shortcut on a dirt road, we noticed a pile of cars not too far up the road so we went for a look see. More Wild Dogs doing one of their favourite things – sleeping in the shade.

Eventually we arrived at Lower Sabie and by 10h30 we had set up camp.

We had planned to meet up with some friends who were staying at Ngwenya lodge, Cecil and Jenny Fenwick and Dave and Jenny Rix. I gave them a buzz and they were at Sunset Dam right outside the camp. We enjoyed a very tasty lunch in the Mugg and Bean with a few tipples and caught up on their news of the area.

Lower Sabie is centrally based to explore a wide range of habitats. There are many special places to visit.

Crocodile Bridge is south – often an excellent campsite to stay at. However, at the moment it is very very dry, parched with hardly a blade of grass. Taking the S28 backroad to Crocodile Bridge there is the Ntandanyathi bird hide. Well worth a visit as there always seems to be water there. It is comfortable and birds love it too.
North there is the Mlondozi picnic site overlooking the dam – unfortunately now bone dry.
Further north is Tshokwane Picnic site – a good stop off point for breakfast or heading north and checking out the birds in the campsite. African Mourning Doves very much darker than anywhere else.
Then there is the main tar road to Skukuza following the Sabie River with numerous lookout points along the way. Very popular, justly so, as a wide variety of big game is often seen along the river. On the opposite side there is also a dirt road which is less used to follow the river.
The bridges across the Sabie at Lower Sabie and near Skukuza are both worth a visit especially when there is lots of water.
Mpondo Dam – a longer drive – always seems to have water and is good for both birds and animals. Pity that it does not have a place where you can get out of your vehicle.
Then there is the Deck at Lower Sabie at the Mugg and Bean restaurant. A good place for sundowners and to watch the wildlife along the long open stretch of river. Often Lion, Leopards, Elephant and Buffalo are seen.
Sunset Dam just outside the gate is special. The hippos are constantly noisy throughout the day and soak happily with the dozens of crocodiles. Of course, the bird life is also good and many unexpected animals often make an appearance.

Unless you book well in advance it is always difficult to get a campsite booking. November seems to be one of those months where bookings are possible. We spent four nights there.

During our time at Lower Sabie we visited most of the places listed above and had some very active birding – identifying 142 different species. Click here to see our list.

And birding in the camp and from the deck at the Mugg and Bean restaurant is always good. The water fountain as you enter reception has it seems resident White-browed Robin-Chats.

White-browed Robin-Chat

Then there are the Barn Owls in the rafters of the Mugg and Bean restaurant.

And then there are the birds found in the grounds.

Colourful lizards running around on the trees.

And lucky sightings off the deck.

On our first day we went to the Bird Hide on the S28. It was here that my bird expert, Sally, spotted a bird nearby with a pink bill. She called me over to see the Greater Honeyguide. Fascinating as four more turned up. It was only then that we realised we had made a big booboo. See photo below.

Also making an appearance was a wiggly snake in the bushes immediately in front of the hide. It had a dual bluish tone to it and was at least a metre long. Some suggested it might be a water snake – see what you think and let us know.

While on the S28 we took the turnoff to what was the Nhlanganzwani Dam – having been told by Cecil that there were 3 Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls in a tree part way down next to a large muddy area. Missed them all on the way to the dam but Sally’s sharp eyes found one on the way back.

The following day we took the dirt tracks S128 and S30 on the north side of the Sabie River towards Skukuza. The highlight of this decision was to have an excellent sighting of an Eurasian Golden Oriole.

There was very little water under the main Skukuza bridge. So we headed for the Lake Panic hide. There was water but much of the area was dry. However, the birds made their appearances and we enjoyed an hour or more in the hide.

Our trip back to Lower Sabie on the tar road turned up the usual sightings of many elephants and some lions – doing what they always seem to be doing – lying down!

On one of our drives we were fortunate in seeing a Cheetah with cubs. At first we thought there was only one but as they moved on another came out of hiding.

Sunset Dam is so close to the camp that it gets lots of attention. Birding is always interesting and animals are often seen drinking.

White-faced Whistling Ducks all in a row

Some of the other animals seen around the area included many elephants and a good sighting of a leopard dozing in a tree.

Photos of other birds seen in the general area:

Swainson’s and his mate the Natal Spurfowl – odd to see them together

White-backed Vulture on nest …one of several nests on the S130

Eventually it was our time to leave. North. We headed for Tshokwane then on to the wild camp at Balule for 3 nights.

The sky had got a bit overcast and blustery but still there was no sign of rain.

Just after passing the Mlondozi Dam we noticed a bird flying just over the grassland. Fortunately it did not disappear behind us as there was no way to turn around while towing the campervan.

It was some way off but we recognized it immediately – a white Harrier with black at the end of its underside wings – a Pallid Harrier. How lucky were we!! Even managed a photo or two.

Tshokwane was quiet. Perhaps it was the weather as there were few birds about.

Breakfast time. I set up the table as Sally inspected the plumbing. Out came the coffee, tea, sugar, milk, water, hot water, mugs and spoon, a few biscuits and bananas. The next thing I saw was a ghost fly across the table and suddenly disappear. No more bananas – the monkeys enjoyed them as did the people watching !! They always catch you underwares.

Paul and Sally Bartho

And on to Balule for Kruger Part 4.

Kruger Part 2 – Malelane Campsite

Published on December 10, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part 2

Malelane Camp

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

12 to 14 November 2018

The drive from Wakkerstroom was quite scenic, especially going through Barbeton. After an early start we arrived at the Kruger Park Malelane gate at midday. It was a pleasant surprise that we were able to check in at the gate for the campsite and not have to go to Berg-en-dal.

The campsite was deserted except for us for the two days we were there. The huts were in use. The advantage of being at this campsite compared to Berg-en-dal is that we were able to get out onto the main road towards Skukuza well before anyone from Berg-en-dal and an hour ahead of the main gate opening.

The temperature was in the high 30s on arrival and it stayed as the norm during the days we were there. Nights were a lot cooler with a pleasant breeze. Being so dry there were hardly any insects or mossies to worry about.

That afternoon our drive was full of the Big Big 5 – Elephant everywhere, Buffalo en-masse, and White Rhino around every corner it seemed. It was only at the last minute before closing time that we were treated to the sight of a very large male leopard – flat out fast asleep under a distant tree.

The first morning we headed north on the H3 heading for Transport dam – the Egyptian Vulture on our mind. Birds were plentiful on the drive and so were the Rhinos and Elephants. We even came across several packs of Hyenas – busily off to somewhere or sleeping in the shade.

On the way we stopped for a bird call which excited Sally and hence me too. Sally recognized the call of the Coqui Francolin but had yet to have any decent views of one. We did not have long to wait before it was spotted on the side of an ant hill 20 metres distant. A Female. No longer a BVD for Sally.

Then as we turned off the tar to Transport Dam Sally heard a Coqui calling again. After some time we located it – well hidden at the base of a tree in long grass. Eventually we were able to ID it as a male.

Transport dam was full but no sign of any Vultures of any kind. Despite that we had a number of sightings of interest. There were the usual bunch of water birds as well as a dozy crocodile. An African Fish-Eagle being mobbed by Lapsmiths. Water Thick-knee were present.

In the photos below you will see a great comparison in size of a Water Thick-knee and a Malachite Kingfisher.

Malachite Kingfisher cf Water Thick-knee

After a lunchtime dinner back at the camp we took another drive on the dirt roads – numerous Game Drive vehicles – very unpleasant with all the dust they create. Windows constantly opened and closed. Yet we still had sightings to keep our minds attentive.

A brief visit to Berg-en-dal gave us the opportunity to scout for Parrots. To start with – on arrival there was a bus load of guests milling about in the parking area waiting to embark their Game Vehicle. They had been waiting for 40 minutes.

The vehicle was there. The problem was that a Spitting Cobra had beat them to it and was seen in the driver’s cab. They had been trying to remove it. In the end that vehicle was not used as it was still there when we left. Either they had found alternative transport or given the guests a refund. It was fortunate that the snake was not in the back where the guests sit.

The Dam at the camp was bone dry, however the birds were calling and one of those calls was that of a Parrot. After much searching the various fruiting trees they were spotted and I managed to get a shot or two.

On the way back we were treated to a pack of wild Dogs on the road – 10 in all. They were starting to get on the move and we followed them down the road for a while. They were quite close to our camp.

Altogether we identified 103 different bird species in the area. Click here to see the list.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Part 3 Lower Sabie to follow

Kruger Part I – Wakkerstroom

Published on December 9, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part I

Wakkerstroom

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

11 to 12 November 2018

Yes I know – Wakkerstroom is nowhere near the Kruger National Park. But we wanted a stay over to break the journey from Howick to Malelane. We drove over 300 kms in just under 4 hours and we had a further 380 to Malelane so this was a good place to stop over in particular for a bit of birding.

The cottage accommodation at Birdlife South Africa, Wakkerstroom was very reasonably priced and comfortable to boot– a bonus. Well worth spending time there in future and taking a guide to see the local specials – Botha’s and Rudd’s Larks, Blue and White-bellied Korhaan, Yellow-breasted Pipit to name a few.

We arrived early – at midday – so we were able to explore the wetland area next to the town during the afternoon.

The wetlands are fairly extensive and full of wildlife – predominantly birds. Which contrasts markedly with all the dams we passed on the way to Wakkerstroom.

During the afternoon we identified 59 different bird species – click here to see the list.

Noticeable were the many African Snipes on the mudbanks beside the road leading up to the bridge close to the hides.

Pictures of other waterbirds photographed.

On a drive out of town towards Piet Retief (R543), we came across some unusual mammal species – Sable to start with then some we had not seen before and took a long while to identify.

Can you identify them?

The following morning we left early and arrived at Malelane Camp at midday. Previously we had to check in at Berg-en-dal but now check in is at the gate when you enter the Kruger Park – a sensible and welcome change.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Kruger Part 2 Malelane Birding to follow.

Nambiti – Elephant Rock

Published on November 4, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Sally and Paul Bartho

30 October 2018.

After the wedding in Kamberg, Sally treated her two sons from Australia to a two night stay at Elephant Rock in Nambiti.

We had a family cottage – two en-suite bedrooms overlooking a dam.

We arrived at lunchtime in blistering sunshine and enjoyed a pleasant meal with a fair share of tipples.

Then, when it was time for the afternoon drive at 16h00 the weather went overcast and was decidedly cooler on the way back.

Birding was not the name of the game. We shared the vehicle with six others from Germany. Most of the interest was focussed on the Big Five and other animals. Birds were not a priority – much as we expected- but the drives did stop for birds we thought others might be interested in. Despite that we identified 93 different bird species. Click here to see our list.

The following day the weather was much cooler with a bit of drizzle on both morning and afternoon drives. On the last morning no-one was interested in the morning drive because of the rain and cold.

Service was excellent. Breakfasts were superb and lunches filling but we found the dinner on the second day not up to the super standard of the first day. The management understood our feelings and I am sure this will not be repeated in the future.

Our birds photographed:

It was not all about birds. We did have a number of interesting animal sightings. As expected we saw four of the Big Five – only the Leopard was missing. The Rhino was a White Rhino so you could say we only saw three!

There were two new male lions introduced from the Eastern Cape which we found fairly quickly having as you would expect a nap.

We also unexpectedly bumped into another pride of four lions – a male and three females.

Not to be outdone were the Giraffe, Kudu, Hippo and Warthogs among many other species not photographed.

Then we were entertained by Buffalo and Cheetah.

We came across a herd of about 50 Buffalo with many boisterous calves. It was fun watching their antics chasing each other trying to assert dominance.

Then there were the two Cheetah juveniles with their mother. The young must have been enjoying the cool weather as they romped around chasing each other.

It would be interesting to return with a compliment of ten birders taking over the whole camp and focusing on birding. I know the guides would relish this for a change.

Cheers

Paul and Sally

Highmoor and Glengarry

Published on November 4, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

28 October 2018

Sally and I went to a small holding near Glengarry. Sally’s son and fiancee Michelle Lutener’s property.

We went to witness their marriage on their property. Family from all over the world came to celebrate with them. Magic. Great sunny day and wonderful venue.

We spent 4 days up there. On the day after the wedding, Sally and I drove up to Highmoor NR doing a quick two hours of birding including a short walk to the first dam at the top.

Birding was quiet despite our early start. in total we identified 31 different species of birds. Click here to view the list.

Here are some photos of the birds we did manage to see.

Mountain Reedbuck were seen near the Highmoor Dam – quite far away but nonetheless very skittish. Their call attracted them to us.

The highlight in the animal world appeared one night on the way back to the small holding – a Porcupine.

Cheers

Paul and Sally Bartho

Lesser Frigatebird – St Lucia

Published on October 14, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Sally and Paul Bartho

11 to 13 October 2018

On the spur of the moment, Sally and I decided to dart over to St Lucia to try our luck at seeing the immature Lesser Frigatebird.

The day started off very pleasantly, however by the time we reached St Lucia – four and a half hours later – it was overcast and windy. The forecast was for foul weather to come.

Nevertheless we persisted in trying our luck that afternoon. Up and down the beach next to the lagoon wherever we saw Terns. At one point I sank knee deep into the quicksand- looked just like hard sand by the water’s edge. Had to lie flat down to extricate myself. Lovely black mud everywhere below thigh level. Fortunately both camera and binos got off lightly. Then to the beach to wash off in the sea. Nothing quite like walking with shoes and sox full of sand.

Managed to do it a second time trying to cross a small stream to get onto a sandbank in the lagoon. Not so serious that time.

There were many waterbirds about, hundreds of waders – Three-banded Plovers, Curlew Sandpipers and Common Ringed Plovers mainly. Nine Black Oystercatchers, Pink-backed Pelicans, Greater and Lesser Flamingos in abundance, African Spoonbills etc.

On checking the Swift Terns we noticed a couple of Little Terns. They are really very very little. The photo below shows how small one is compared to the Curlew Sandpiper in front of it.

Little Tern with Curlew Sandpiper in foreground

After some time we reached the end of the lagoon with no joy. Then the bird appeared at a distance over the lagoon bombing the Swift Terns, and Flamingos putting them all to flight. Many photos were taken at a distance in dim overcast conditions. Most were consequently of poor quality.

Greater Flamingos take to the air due to Lesser Frigatebird (top right)

Then as we sat watching at the end of the lagoon where the Terns had just settled about 150 metres away, along came the Frigatebird to disturb them. However it was not the Terns which it was after but a very large Pink-backed Pelican. Coming, it appeared straight in line with us and the photos I got show the comparative wing sizes of the two birds. A fortunate mini series of shots.

Lesser Frigatebird chasing Pink-backed Pelican

A very hot shower was welcome when we got back, not only to get rid of the mud and blown sand but also to warm us up.

The next morning we were up early hopeful of a brighter day in which to see the Lesser Frigatebird – not to be. Windy and overcast it remained. After a couple of hours we gave up and went to Western Shores for the rest of the morning.

Birding there was very quiet and like all the animals pretty scarce. However we did manage a few nice sightings of which the Martial Eagle was the pick of the day.

Red-breasted Swallows were seen mainly on the roads in the rain.

And then we came across an unusual sighting. It looked like a spiders had wrapped a web all round a bunch of leaves. On closer inspection there were many red ants running about on the bundle. Later we learned that these are Weaver Ants and that these bundles are commonly seen in KZN coastal forests. The webbing is in fact glue.

Here is an excerpt from Joseph Banks’ Journal found in Wikipedia “The ants…one green as a leaf, and living upon trees, where it built a nest, in size between that of a man’s head and his fist, by bending the leaves together, and gluing them with whitish paperish substances which held them firmly together. In doing this their management was most curious: they bend down four leaves broader than a man’s hand, and place them in such a direction as they choose. This requires a much larger force than these animals seem capable of; many thousands indeed are employed in the joint work. I have seen as many as could stand by one another, holding down such a leaf, each drawing down with all his might, while others within were employed to fasten the glue. How they had bent it down I had not the opportunity of seeing, but it was held down by main strength, I easily proved by disturbing a part of them, on which the leaf bursting from the rest, returned to its natural situation, and I had an opportunity of trying with my finger the strength of these little animals must have used to get it down.”

In the afternoon we did return to look for the Lesser Frigatebird. It was present but we were unable to get any better sightings of the bird as it kept its distance and the sky was grey again.

Saturday morning was not only windy and overcast but it was also squalling. Instead of going to the beach we went into Eastern Shores. Surprisingly none of the dirt roads were closed. We were happy having a 4×4 to drive on them. In places the mud was very slippery and we watched one 4×4 almost slide off the road and down the bank.

Elephants had been out the night before along one of the dirt roads and in one place had downed a large tree across the road with no chance to go round. A long careful reverse was required to find a suitable place to make a U-turn.

Despite all the adverse weather we did manage to identify 107 bird species (click here to see the list) during the time in St Lucia as well as seeing several Rhino and a large herd of Buffalo. Most of the antelope species were hunkered down and not very noticeable.

Cheers

Paul and Sally Bartho

Mapungubwe NP, Ratho and Golden Gate NP

Published on September 24, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

9 to 13 September 2018

Sally and I have just spent four nights camping in Mapungubwe NP at the top-most part of RSA bordering Botswana and Zimbabwe.

We went there between the Bird Fair (at Walter Sisulu Gardens) and the Getaway Show (at the TicketPro Dome) – both in Jo’berg on consecutive weekends. It was the first time we had been to either show.

Our first issue was to find a campground within easy distance from each location. At first our search on Google Maps showed that there were no campsites reasonably close to either venue. However after much searching we did find one campsite – The Guest House @ Country Lodge in Muldersdrift situated between each venue and within 20 kms of each.

We went to the Opening Day of the Bird Fair – Saturday 8 September – in Walter Sisulu Gardens. This is a very appropriate venue in a wonderful setting. The Fair was equally as interesting. It had stands with everything appropriate to birding as well as talks from a variety of people – even a puppet show for the kids which the adults enjoyed equally. Faansie Peacock’s new book – “A fully fledged field guide… for kids” – was for sale. What a well written book and appropriate not only for kids but new and old adult birders as well.

Walter Sisulu NP is renowned for its Verreaux’s Eagles and their nest in the cliffs. We were not disappointed and had views of them on their nest with their offspring as well as in the air.

Then on to Mapungubwe NP to fill in time between the shows. Another 550 kms drive!!

Mapungubwe NP is divided into two sections – the Eastern and Western sides – with Den Staat Farm in between. See map above. The campsite is in the Western section and the reception is in the Eastern section – some 34 kms apart.

The Den Staat Farm has always had interesting ponds to search for amazing water birds. Permission to enter required. However, when we inquired about going there we understood that the farm had changed hands and the ponds are now all dry. No longer a special birding spot.

Right now both sides of the Park are extremely dry and dusty. The fences are broken in long stretches and cattle wander across the river from Botswana to forage in the Park. Sad that management appears to not have the funds needed to maintain the fences.

Impala enjoying the trees near the Mazhou campsite

Some camp birds.

Our first afternoon and next day we spent driving round the Western section, spending time at the Maloutswa Hide overlooking a patch of wetland (water supplied to maintain the wetland).

Perhaps the best sighting at the water hole was a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl nesting in a Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver’s nest.

In one spot we confronted a few elephants by the river.

Then we came across a Holy Tree.

After that, this juvenile Bataleur nicely framed.

At another spot we found a very rough access point to the river and picked up a few water birds amongst others on the way there.

In all we identified 92 different bird species. Our bird list for everywhere we visited can be seen later in this report.

One of the highlights of our time there was to see a Bushpig in the daylight. It had a lovely white mane which went from neck to rump. Most unexpected sighting.

Another day was spent in the Eastern section. The first bird we saw as we entered was a Red-headed Weaver which flitted about making it impossible to get a photo. A bit further along we came to a lookout point set high above the valley below where Baobabs appear in a barren landscape.

We headed for the chalet accommodation at Leokwe nestled in a boulder strewn enviroment.

On the way to Leokwe, Splat (our life-like Platapus furry toy) waved at a passing Park’s vehicle. It screeched to a halt. Out jumped the driver who came running up to our car. Oh-oh I thought. Well the driver, Leonard, immediately said, “I know you. You were in the Kruger Park at Pafuri 7 years ago driving a Kia”. We were astonished that he had remembered us – it must have been Splat whom he recognised.

Anyway he told us to follow him as he had something to show us. So we followed him virtually to the far end of the park to the old SADF bunker.

We had been there some 7 or 8 years ago and had intended to go there again during our visit. The benefit this time was having Leonard with us as we were able to get out of the car and walk around the area.

Specifically beneath the two large Nyala trees where we had seen a pair of Pel’s Fishing Owls all those years ago. And sure enough he pointed out another (or the same?) pair. What a wonderful happenstance meeting Leonard.

Sadly, we later learned that this wonderful spot at the SADF Bunker is being considered as a future picnic site. If this goes ahead then Goodbye to the Pel’s Fishing-Owls (and their likely breeding spot). Can we afford to let this happen? We have let Mark Anderson know about this and hope he has some influence with SAN Parks to avoid this going ahead.

Close to the Bunker the river did have a large area of standing water in it where we saw a small variety of waterbirds.

We went for a walk up to the viewing point overlooking the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers. As you can see the rivers at this point were absolutely dry and cattle could be seen wandering into the Park from the opposite side.

Limpopo and Shashe Rivers. Shashe with the large expanse of sand.

Red-billed Oxpecker on back of – yes – a cow.

From there we went to the tree top boardwalk and hide. The photo below shows the damage the elephants have caused to part of the entrance.

Some birds and other colourful critters photographed.

In all we identified 71 different bird species during the course of the day there.

On our final day we visited Ratho camp – due west of Pontdrift which is the border crossing into Botswana near the western-most edge of the Park. This crossing enters into the Tuli Block in Botswana. Should you want to visit the Tuli Block for a day visit we were told that it would cost you R700 to enter. Not sure if that cost applies per person nor if it applies if you simply want to drive through into other parts of Botswana.

Ratho sign to turn off the main road going to Pontdrift.

We had stayed at Ratho many years ago so it was interesting to see if it had changed much. At that time they had a 4×4 bush camp atop of a hill with a scenic loo overlooking the valley below. This has now gone, the area having been sold. However a new 4×4 camp has been established in the area next to the river.

There are now several drives alongside the river where elephants were seen to roam. The main camp has a deck overlooking a waterhole where the elephants often are seen.

However the most interesting thing we learnt from the owner – Sandra- was how the whole camp was submerged after the floods one year. In the pictures below you can see me pointing to the height of the water level marked on the tree. Surprisingly the essence of the camp remained and was refurbished. It was quite unimaginable to visualise the extent of the area under water.

We had a short drive along the riverside and identified 40 different bird species.

Grey Heron in breeding plumage – red beak

Eventually it was time for us to leave and head back to Jo’berg and the Getaway Show. We stayed at the same campsite as we had the previous weekend. This time without power nor water. Broken transformer and water shutdown. Fortunately we had own supply of both.

The Getaway Show covered everything associated with 4×4 camping. There were displays of all the main offroad campervans for people to examine. Probably the best way to assess which one you prefer.

At lunch time we visited Isdell House in Pinegowrie where we were treated to a full hour and a half tour guided by Mark Anderson. It was very impressive what they have done there. The whole concept is “Green” at its best. One day soon they may even be off the grid.

The support they got from various donors – the Isdell’s in particular – has been very generous. Virtually all the furnishings, building supplies have been donated by various companies keeping the cost of rebuild to an absolute minimum.

And the paintings, sketches, photos and prints – most signed by the artists – are extremely valuable. The library has a large selection of books donated by members. The policy of donated books is to offer the Orthonological Library first choice, then books come to Isdell’s library where some are kept, field guides donated to guides and schools, and the rest sold on – the proceeds of which go into the capital fund.

Such a well run operation with a very dedicated and happy team. It was a pleasant surprise to be guided around by Mark and to glean first hand of the story of Isdell House.

To break the journey home we decided to go to Golden Gate and camp for 2 nights with the hope of seeing vultures at the vulture restaurant, and Cape Eagle-Owl(s) along the cliffs bordering the campsite.

Our campsite sheltered from the icy wind by the ablution block.

The first thing we realised when we got to the campsite was the noisy people. Friday and Saturday nights are party nights and all passing traffic had their music at full blast. It is also a place for bikers.

There are two loops to bird along. One loop goes up tp 2150 metres while the vulture hide is on the other lower loop. Most of the habitat is high grassland with bordering cliffs. Bird variety is therefore limited.

Drakensberg peaks showing the Devil’s Tooth on the left

Our bird list for here and Mapungubwe can be seen by clicking here. Our afternoon and early morning bird list amountes to 23 different bird species here at Golden Gate.

We dipped on the Cape Eagle-Owl – not even hearing it. Not surprising really as the camp noise drowned out all other wildlife calls.

Black Wildebeest, Blesbok and Zebra were plentiful on the mountain slopes. Eland and Mountain Reedbuck were also seen.

The vulture hide was relatively quiet. No vultures, just White-backed Ravens, Cape Crows and a lonely Southern Bald Ibis.

The weather was very windy – perhaps that was why there were so few sightings. However we did see one Bearded vulture fly over the hide just as we had returned to the car.

All the other birds we had seen there took to the skies. So we raced back in the hope that the Bearded Vulture had landed – unfortunately it turned out to be another breathless walk 400 metres back to the hide to no avail.

African Stonechats were everywhere but this one had us fooled for a while.

After our morning’s drive round both loops the wind picked up. That was enough for us and we packed up and returned home a day early.

Hope you enjoyed the account and photos.

Paul and Sally Bartho

A Blast to the Past – Flock 2017

Published on August 14, 2018 by Paul Bartho1 Comment

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

24 to 28 April 2017

Flock 2017 was an outstanding birding experience which I know many people would relish doing again. It is incredible that BirdLife South Africa managed to virtually fill all the cabins with birders on MSC Sinfonia. As everyone said, this must be a world record for the largest flock of birders gathered together in one place.

Almost 2000 birders from all over the world were on board including many of the seabird experts worldwide.

The BLSA organisation of the trip was highly professional. The AGM was well organised, there were interesting talks, prizes and entertainment and the guiding on board was exceptional for us novices.

We left Cape Town on a lovely clear day and were escorted out to sea by a number of seals and dolphins.

The route was planned by the very willing captain according to BLSA wishes.

Our first day of birding started at dawn and lasted to dusk (as did every day) with quick dashes away for food etc. It was also one of those days when numerous different exciting and rare birds appeared. Sometimes we were unable to keep up with a special bird appearing on one side of the boat and another rare bird on the opposite side.

And from our height above the sea we were lucky if we got a few decent photos of any of the birds. For me, virtually every bird was a lifer having never been on a pelagic trip before.

A quiet moment at the back of the ship – normally each level was teeming with birders. Also at the front too.

The ship’s entertainment areas were virtually empty during the day, however the bars at night were quite popular. I think the staff were mystified by all us birders as they tried to talk us into the large empty casino and away from the birding.

That first morning there were seven different species of Albatross seen – Black-browed, Indian Yellow-nosed, Light-mantled, Shy, Sooty, Tristan and Wandering. The Light-mantled Albatross had all the guides screaming as this was most unexpected.

For our Bird List click here. Of the 21 species shown 17 were lifers for me, and 7 for Sally. There were numerous other lifers called out which unfortunately we were not at the right place at the right time.

Here are some photos of birds I did managed to connect with. I hope I have correctly identified most of the birds in the pictures. Do let me know my mistakes. Note the Tristan Albatross was identified by Peter Harrison. I am aware that there is not full consensus on its ID as there is not enough published about the bird to clearly identify it beyond doubt. However Peter Harrison has done a huge amount of research on the bird and I will happily accept his opinion.

Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross gaining momentum for lift off

Cape Gannet – the only one in these photos that I had seen before.

Some birds I have struggled to identify from my photos include this Giant Petrel:

And these two birds:

There was fascinating birding along the sides of the ship each night. The lights from the ship enabled us to see the birds as they bobbed on the water alongside. It was interesting to watch as the Great Shearwaters diappeared behind the boat only to returne to the front and bob alongside again catching squid and other delicious morcels.

We understand that the bewildered captain was so impressed with the BLSA organisation and nature of our trip that he suggested we do it again but for a week or more next time.

Another memorable moment was the sunset and double rainbow at the end of the four nights at sea.

Intense golden double rainbow taken from our cabin

This was a wonderful trip that Sally and I will always fondly remember.

Hope you enjoy the memories.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Namibia

Published on August 10, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Sally and Paul Bartho

27 April to 17 May 2018

(An aside: Remember by clicking on a photo it will enlarge).

Our trip to the Kgalagadi ended when we got to Tsabong. As we were so close to Namibia we decided to pay a visit to Namibia. Our goal was to get to Epupa Falls and take in the various Parks along the way there and back.

Our first stop – Kalahari Rest Lodge and Camping – was our only stop in Botswana once we had left the Kgalagadi. It was about 25 kms north of Kang on the Kalahari Transfrontier Highway. This was a long journey (some 430 kms taking over 5 hours) to add to the day we had already driven. We left Tsabong mid-day so arrived just before dusk.

We certainly recommend this campsite as a stop over point. It is a small campsite with four bathrooms – each with toilet, shower and basin- as the ablution block. After a long day we ate at the restaurant and the food and ambiance was good.

The next day we headed to Windhoek to a campsite near the inner city Eros airport – Arebbusch Travel Lodge. A distance of about 710 kms taking close to eight hours. The border post was a tad busy so it took us a while to get through. However checking our insurance documents later we found they had entered the licence place of our campervan incorrectly. We hoped it would not be noticed at the police check points.

Some Namibian Scenery:

At Arebbusch we spent two nights, the first in a chalet and then camping. There are only 4 campsites all of which are under cover round a large glassy patch.

Our provisions needed replenishing otherwise we would have only stayed one night. Unfortunately our night’s camping was loudly disturbed by the antics of an open air concert right next door after a soccer match. Avoid Saturday nights camping here.

No bookings had been made for our time in Namibia. We called Etosha for a booking but all they could offer us was 5 days camping at Halali in three days time – we took it. So we booked a campsite ten kms before Okaukuejo at Etosha Safari Lodge for two nights. Nice grassy sites and entertaining ablutions. 420 kms taking a almost five hours due to the police checks. Very nervous at the first as he was fairly thorough checking the car licence plate. However he did not see it necessary to check the campervan licence plate. This was the case fortunately at all the police stops.

Campsite birding was good. We had a nesting pair of Great Sparrows right beside us.

Other campsite birds

Time was spent in Etosha around Okaukuejo puzzling over the various larks and other ground birds favoured by the open flat grassland/scrub area. We saw a good variety of different species which we did not see elsewhere in the park.

However there is one big criticism that I have to make. Outside of the main camps there are no ablution facilities fit for humans at the various run down picnic spots. Some picnic sites are so bad that they have been closed. We never found one that had an even passable excuse for a toilet. I dread to think what foreign tourists think. For the cost of entering and staying in the park this is shameful.

South African Shelduck – male and female with Blue Crane

South African Shelduck – male and female

At last we arrive in Halali – the central camp between Okaukuejo and Namutoni – about 70 kms from each. We just miss the best campsite – No. 37 – by about 5 minutes. However we did recamp there when the people left after two nights.

Campsite 37 at Halali – large and private

Moringa sign to the waterhole viewing site

Many overlander safaris visit the camp and they can be very noisy at night. I don’t think we would camp there in future although the waterhole can be interesting at night. While there this time we saw Elephants, Black Rhinos, Hyenas and Jackals there plus hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse each night, maybe more.

Sandgrouse in their hundreds at Halali waterhole every evening

Perhaps because of the rains we did not see a wide variety of game. We did have one sighting of three Cheetah on the first morning leaving the camp. After that no big cats. Much of our time was spent away from the camp in and around Namutoni.

There were of course many Black-faced Impala, Springbok, Burdhell’s Zebra, Steenbok, Black-backed Jackals about with campsite Banded Mongooses, Tree Squirells, lizards etc.

Tiny green Terrapin in the middle of nowhere

In the camp wew had a selection of special birds visiting us. There was a flock of about twelve Violet Woodhoopoes, a Pearl-spotted Owlet, a Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, Southern Red-billed and Monteiro’s Hornbills, and a Red-billed Spurfowl.

For birding, one of the nearby waterholes – Goas- had the most interest for us.

Just north of Namutomi is Fischer’s Pan. It was full of water so we had excellent sightings of numerous water birds.

Glossy Ibis Red-knobbed Coot and Red-billed Teal

At Namutoni picnic site there were some interesting birds.

Then at the Klein Namutoni waterhole south of the camp there was a mix of animals and birds.

Here are some photos of unidentified birds that we saw which we hope you can identify.

After five nights in Halali it was time to move on. Epupa Falls was our goal via Ruacanna and Kunene River Lodge, then on to Epupa along the recently improved road. We called Epupa Falls Lodge to book a few nights there and quickly learned that flooding had severely damaged this road and we would not be able to get through that way. We would have to go via Opuwo – a route I did not particularly fancy.

So after this disappointment and a disappointing time in Etosha we considered going home via the Caprivi. Not on. Most of the places we were interested in staying were flooded. When we contacted the Caprivi Houseboat Safari Lodge for a campsite so we could see the Leaflove, they told us “Sure you are able to see the bird but we will have to come by boat to fetch you”.

Then we considered simply heading back home.

On the day of departure, Sally said that as we had come this far we ought to go to Epupa Falls. I agreed reluctantly as I was not looking forward to the drive. We contacted Epupa Falls Lodge and booked ourselves in for three nights.

Fruit and Flora which Sally had photoed

We had always wanted to see the recently opened western side of Etosha and decided that we would do so on our way to Epupa Falls. 70 kms to Okaukuejo then another 200 kms to the Anderssen gate at the west of the park.

It was too long a journey to comfortably get to Epupa Falls in one day. That being the case we unthinkingly booked ourselves a campsite in Kamanjab for a night as there was nothing close to the Anderssen gate. Instead we should and could have camped in Ruacana and given ourselves a chance to find the Grey Kestrel. It would have meant backtracking about 40 extra kms compared to going to Kamanjab. Unfortunately we only considered this as we reached Kamanjab.

The west side of the park was quite different from the rest of Etosha. It started much like the area around Okaukuejo for a long part of the journey to the new campsite at Olifantsrus where the road forks. We took the left fork to the campsite and were quite impressed. Although there is no shade nor power for the 10 campsites, they were neatly arranged and the ablutions good. One of the big plusses was the double level hide. Walk along a boardwalk to the hide which is situated overlooking a wetland area.

Continuing along the left fork to the gate the landscape changes and we drive through rugged and hilly country well vegetated. Quite different and unexpected. We would like to spend a short time to explore this area in the future. The problem is that the campsite is extremely popular and hard to book.

Kamanjab to Epupa Falls is about 430 kms and takes a good 6 hours to do when you are towing. In fact it took us four hours from Opuwo – a journey of 180 kms. The last 70 kms travelling through over 100 marked dips in the road. It meant virtually stopping at the bottom of the dip each time to protect the tow hitch.

Smiley sign means dips ahead. We counted over 100 of these on the way back.

The scenery was spectacular along the way especially as we approached Epupa Falls.

Epupa Falls was was worth all the effort to get there. Fortunately we were there when the Kunene River was flowing strongly. The dam gates up river in Angola had been opened.

We checked in to Epupa Falls Lodge. The campsite is right beside the river and from our site we could see the spray as the water started going over the falls. It is a well palm shaded campsite but without power. The solar panels had to be constantly moved every hour to find some sun.

On our first evening we went up to the lookout point over the Falls. What a view especially to see it in flood.

Truely Spectacular.

The birding was excellent. We had birding round the camp with numerous Rosy-faced Lovebirds, Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrushes and Ruppel’s Parrots amongst them.

Then there was the birding beside the banks going upstream along the road towards Kunene River Lodge. We drove 20 kms along this road without difficulty.

Road from the camp. Makalani Palms in the distance

Banks of the Kunene River – some of our best birding along here. Numerous special Kingfishers

Big Bug. Many in the fields from road to river. Body alone about 4 cms.

The local population were always smiley and friendly.

Undoubtedly Epupa Falls was the highlight of our trip to both the Kgalagadi and Namibia.

Sadly leaving Epupa Falls behind we headed back to Windhoek – the car was due for a service there.

We had a one night stopover at Buschfeld – Igaba camp near Otjiwarongo. 670kms taking about 10 hours. The campsite is small but attractive. The restaurant was excellent and the birding not bad.

In the garden there was a large bird party of Green-winged Pytilias and Violet-eared and Blue Waxbills.

Green-winged Pytilia and Violet-eared Waxbill

Then we had a two night stay at Erindi camping at R850 a night plus a daily R300 charge to access the wilderness area. The campsite had its own ablution and wash-up area with power – pretty smart. However, despite camping in Namibia being double RSA rates, we felt the price here was a rip-off.

The wilderness area is small and not all that exciting from an animal perspective.

Most of the game animals were seen in the camp along with some very annoying buzzing bugs hovering around your ears.

The camp does have a waterhole where animals came in to drink. Two hippos are also resident there and kept us entertained with their antics.

However the highlight of our stay was right in our campsite. I was busy copying photos onto my PC inside the trailer. For no particular reason I got up to see what Sally was up to outside. So I walked out to her totally unaware of what was beside me. When I reached Sally she pointed. I looked round and was most surprised I had walked within feet of the animal. I could not believe my eyes as we had scoured around Namutoni to see one of these.

The best birding in the Wildereness area was when we heard a Hartlaub’s Spurfowl.

When we entered Windhoek from Botswana we had noticed a campsite just before entering the city and close to Avis Dam. The Vineyard Country Lodge. It looked inviting and as it turns out we are sorry we did not stop there originally. This was our next stop for three nights. It took us less than three hours to get there – about 190 kms. And it was one of the cheapest places we camped at in Namibia at R 180 per person per night. It was the best value for money as well as being close but out of town.

Train bridge close to Vineyard Country Lodge as viewed from Avis Dam

The car went in for service the next day and we caught up with laundry and shopping once the car returned. We had parked and set up camp next to our own ablution facilities. Sally outside, me inside when I hear a quiet call from Sally. This time I sneak out of the campervan and there on a post very close was a Rockrunner. However it had gone before I was able to get my camera. Such a lovely and unexpected sighting.

We visited both Avis Dam and Daan Viljoen the next day. At Daan Viljoen we had a few sightings of birds we had not yet seen on the trip. The picnic site area is slowly collapsing unfortunately. The camp grounds look flat, grassy and level – inviting. Perhaps one should check if any events – like weddings – are planned if you wish to camp there.

Travelling round the park we came across some interesting birds, the odd scorpion and lizard.

Mountain Wheatear – female or juvenile (

At Avis Dam there were numerous Long-tailed Paradise-Whydahs and a Rock Martin which caught our interest.

Eventually it was time to return home. We could have gone through Botswana on the Trans Kalahari Highway but we could not find a place to safely camp in South Africa near the Botswana border. So we headed south to the White House just before Grunau. (660 kms in about 7 hours). Little did we realise that this was owned by people we met in Epupa Falls. We recognised each other on arrival. We did not camp but took a cheap room in the house including dinner as a treat.

Getting there early we had a short drive round the property and were pleasantly rewarded by some special birds.

Our intention was to take two more nights on the road to get home in Howick. However we sort of made a detour to find a place near Kendall to stay. It was not where we expected so we pushed on doing almost 1000 kms when we fortunately saw a sign for Kandirri Game Lodge. The detour had cost us an extra 200 kms and several hours more.

We were thankful to have arrived there as it was almost dark. We were the only guests. Not wanting to cook, we asked if the restaurant was still open. No problem, we were told they will call the chef to come in just for us – fish and chips never tasted so good.

Our campsite was surrounded by caged lions and other animals (a good security shield if ever you need one). Next to us was a white lion – obviously a youngster and very good looking. As we set up tent we noticed a large black dog in its cage. Oh no, we thought – not for dinner surely. Then we saw the dog playfully give the lion a swipe on its head – the return cuff was markedly stronger but it was obvious they were playmates – must have been brought up together.

The next day we set off early to do the last 630 kms taking about 7 hours to get home with daylight to spare.

Altogether our bird list was 195 different species. Click here to see our list as well as the list per area.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Kgalagadi

Published on August 7, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Sally and Paul Bartho

5 to 27 April 2018

Sally and I were invited by our friends, Arthur and Rose Douglas to join them for 3 weeks in the Kgalagadi. Also with us was another couple, Bernard and Lynda Kriel.

Our first night was spent at the River of Joy campsite close to Bloemfontein. A 528 km journey from Howick taking around 6 hours. A pleasant enough spot to overnight. We went down to the river but did not see much. Our best birding was up the entrance road .

Here we managed to do a little birding and our best sighting was that of a pair of Spotted Thick-knees.

The next day we took it easy and headed for Kheis Riverside Lodge. This time a 445 km journey taking about 5 hours. That left us with a shortish drive the following day to reach Twee Rivieren (a 379 Km journey taking about 4 hours) with time to do any last minute shopping in Uppington.

Kheis Riverside Lodge campsite is very pleasant – shady and green and right next to the Orange River.

Birding was quiet but we did see some nice birds – Orange River White-eye and Black-chested Prinias.

At last we arrived in the Kgalagadi. After checking into the Transfrontier Park at Twee Riv1eren we headed for Rooiputs. Because we were leaving the Park into Botswana at the eastern gate of Mabuasuhube at the end of our trip, we remembered to get our passports stamped as entering Botswana (easily forgotten).

We shared campsite number 2. A large site with an A-frame, cold water and a loo and shower a tad far away to walk comfortably to at night especially as there were lions about.

Early to bed and early to rise – typical of enjoying the bush.

Then it happened – the first of three nights worth at Rooiputs. Big thunderstorm and loads of rain. Each night the same. Wake up and find the river bed was surprisingly full of water. However by evening it had gone.

The rain covered most of the Park each night.

Green Melkvlei Picnic site showing wet road

Melkvlei Picnic site with Sally, Rose, Arthur, Bernard and Lynda

As well as down to Twee Rivieren and across to Mata Mata.

Over the four days in Rooiputs we had some lovely bird sightings. Great raptor sightings – Black Harrier in particular.

Amongst the non-raptors there were

Southern Masked-Weaver – female and Lark-like Bunting

Red-headed Finch overseeing Red-billed Queleas bathtime

Of course it was not just about birds. In the Sociable Weavers’ nest we found a Cape Cobra.

And Black-backed Jacal, Brown Hyena, Lions on a kill, Bat-eared Foxes, Cheetah and cubs on a kill, a Honey Badger with opportunistic friends, Oryx (aka Gemsbok), numerous Springbok and Mongooses to name a few.

Honey Badger and opportunist Pale Chanting Goshawks

We even came across a randy tortoise. He did his best to mate with a somewhat larger female. Very persistent. Eventually after mounting her and perhaps doing his business he was summarily tossed over backwards behind her.

Tortoises – he was a bit too small for the job methinks

Each evening we sat around a campfire watching the flames and occasionally putting the torch behind us to check for sneaky dangerous animals. However we were not always as alert as we should have been. Sitting around the campfire one night, chin wagging as one does, we suddenly notice this animal under Sally’s chair – an uninterested Cape Fox fortunately. This was not the only time we had such an experience. It happened again in Polentswa with another Cape Fox.

After four nights in Rooiputs we headed for Mata Mata – taking the crossing at Kij Kij rather than going via Twee Rivieren. The campsite was full but fortunately Sally and I arrived early enough to secure two reasonably comfortable campsites side by side for tall of us to share.

On the way there we came across a pride of thoroughly lazy lions – not willing to shift off the road to let us past. Not a flinch as our wheels came close.

The Mata Mata campsite has a hide overlooking a wetland area. And wet it was yet again – more nightly thunderstorms and deluge of rain.

The skies are open and the nightly rain she cometh yet again

Game viewing and birding in Mata Mata involves driving back towards Twee Rivieren for 20 kms (one hour) before you have a chance to get off the main road onto a loop road. Then it is the same again for the second and third loops.

Normally we would expect to see some owls but we were not lucky during our three night stay there. Much of our birding was in the campsite. In fact we were serenaded very sweetly every morning at dawn by White-browed Sparrow-Weavers – from inside their nests above us.

Some of the other birds we photographed:

After three nights in Mata Mata we headed for Polentswa via the cross road to Dikbaardskolk picnic site and then Nossob. A long 200 km drive cross country. Fortunately the roads were not too corrugated and the sand was compacted due to the rain. Having seen few interesting animals during our time in Mata Mata we were hopeful but also realised that if we saw anything interesting that we could not afford to stop for long.

Of course that is when it all started to happen. Early start and not far out of Mata Mata and we encounted our first pride of lions – about 10 if memory serves me well. Quick photos and then we are moving on while everyone else stops. Then the next group of lions, then more lions (we saw 19 in all over the 60 kms to the cross road to Nossob) and Bat-eared Foxes. Then to cap it all a young Leopard walks towards us and right alongside the driver’s side of the car. Everyone else was probably still ensconsed round the first group of lions that we saw!!

Just before we started the crossing to Nossob we had a salute Good-bye from a lone Giraffe perched on the top of a hill.

On the crossing to Nossob we had several sightings of butterflies in the road and a Gabar Goshawk having a bath.

At Nossob Arthur and Rose’s son Brad and friend joined us.

So now we were eight in all with three off-road campervans and one roof-top bakkie (Bernard and Lynda’s). Once filled up with diesel and water we headed for five nights at Polentswa – campsite number 2.

On arrival we noticed that someone had changed the numbering of the campsites so we rectified that and settled in. It was a tight squeeze around the A-frame but we managed quite well – one couple on each side.

Polentswa has no water nor electricity – just a shower (with your own water) and a long drop. We each had solar panels which kept the freezers and fridges running without issue. To have a warm water for our showers, we used the sun to heat up our 5 lt bottles of water. All rubbish had to be collected to take back out with us.

Being an hour and a half’s drive from Nossob we hardly had anyone else about. Just those of us in the three separate campsites.

Both birding and animal sightings were interesting. The Kudu sighting was most unexpected.

Red Hartebeest aka “Partybeest” based on their pale bottoms and black stockings.

Most of the looped viewing points were inundated as well as the roads in places.

Inundated Windmill at Langklaas waterhole near Polentswa

Birds too were special.

Pale-chanting Goshawk – with bloody mouth

Then on one of our drives north we came across a large road puddle – full of Ostriches (about 20) bathing together.

About 20 Ostriches bathing together in one of the road lagoons!

Then on another escapade we were truly rewarded. Again we had to avoid one of the larger road puddles and as we drove along the roadside track we spotted this beautiful Bateleur.

Eventually it flew off and we continued round the track to get back on the main road. We had not gone far when we observed what we thought was a Jackal in the distance. As we got closer we realised we had made a serious mistake – see photos.

Not to be outdone a Wildcat at one of the viewing sights gave us a special treat. We had been watching hundreds of Namaqua Doves drinking from one of the larger puddles at the Kousant side road and after some time decided to move off. As we did so Sally exclaimed “Wildcat”. It took me ages to see it as it was so well camouflaged. We spent another hour there watching its antics. Fortunately it made several appearances there during our time at Polentswa and we were able to watch it several times more along with the rest of our group.

In doing so, we drove quite close to the action with the water lapping at our running boards. There it was, camougflaged beneath a bush at the water’s edge preying on the Namaqua Doves. The birds would spot the Wildcat and fly off but always returned. Many ended as prey to the cat. We saw over a dozen instances where the Wildcat leapt for its prey with about a 50% success rate in the first hour we were there. Amazing agility and speed.

As mentioned earlier we had nightly visitors round our campsite fire- in particular a friendly Cape Fox and the occasional Black-backed Jackal.

Our plan after leaving Polentswa was to enter Mabuasehube from Nossob. First we needed to get back to Nossob to re-fuel, take on water and buy wood. By 09h30 we left Nossob to head for the halfway stop at Matopi campsite.

The following day we were to be in Mpaya campsite for three nights then four more at Lesholoago before departing the Park via the Mabuasehube Gate into Botswana. At this point Bernard and Lynda left us so it was just the three campervans in tow.

Off we set – 200kms to cross. We expected the dunes to be a real trial – soft sand and hugely uneven tracks. As it turned out this was not the case because of the rains.

We had not gone more than two kms on the crossing road when we came across our first dune challenge – a long steepish and rough climb. Arthur and Rose were in the lead with Brad and friend behind – then came tail-end Charlie who was most likely to need a hand.

The Incident:

Sally and I lagged behind to watch the lead vehicle and campervan go up the hill. All going well but a lot of speed and heavy bouncing about. Then we hear on the radio “Hey dad, is that your wheel coming towards me?” A joke I thought. But a joke it was not. The back right wheel of their trailer had broken off and the axle was caput too. Fortunately this happened near the start of the crossing and not midway.

So what to do. The back of their trailer was well dug in on the right side of the narrow track. Arthur and Brad summed up the situation and set out to fix the problem themselves. First, clear the bush either side for manoeverability of their vehicles. Then they dug out the axle so that they could turn the trailer round without digging it further into the sand.

Meanwhile Sally and I took Rose back to camp to order a new axle and get accommodation for all of us for the next few days. The camp manager was very helpful with the former but the accommodation was a problem as the site was full. Eventually they realised they had no choice but to let us stay. “One night that is all that is allowed for emergencies” we were told.

That sorted and a new axle from Cape Town ordered to be collected from the dealer in Upington the next day, we returned to the helpless trailer. On arrival we were surprised to find that the trailer had been turned around and was now being organised to limp back to camp somehow. Both vehicles had winches at the front to make this manoevre possible. Sally and I returned to camp to await their hopeful arrival.

What an amazing sight greeted us when eventually the trailer was brought back into camp. Arthur and Brad had somehow not only got the trailer turned around but hooked its front onto Arthur’s Fortuner while Brad’s Land Cruiser had winched the back right of the trailer off the ground. Arthur then towed both the trailer and Brad’s Land Cruiser the 6 kms back to camp.

Arthur and Rose’s trailer being brought in

The whole camp came out to greet them in total amazement. The trailer was quickly put on bricks and the axle removed.

The following day Arthur and Rose headed for Upington with the broken axle on their roof to make sure they had the correct one to return with.

On arrival in Upington the replacement had arrived from Cape Town and they headed back to the Park. Too late to reach Nossob they camped just outside the Park. The next day after a hideous drive from Nossob in muddy conditions they arrived mid-day. The axle was installed and we were ready for the long journey the following day.

Sally and managed to do some birding near-by but mainly round the camp.

In the meantime the diesel truck had broken down and never arrived in Nossob the three nights we were there. Diesel was limited to 30 litres the first 2 days and not at all on the third day. We took a chance with spare Jerrycans we had filled up earlier and they proved well more than we needed.

Now it was time to try the cross over into Mabuasehube again. This time it was taken a lot easier and we reached Mpaya in good time. The crossing was easy once over the first few dunes. In fact, because of the rains, we never needed low range throughout the five nights we were there.

On the way over Steenbok were plentiful.

Unfortunately we lost several days camping in Mapaya due to the broken axle. It is a good spot overlooking a wetland area. The next morning as we prepared to leave we saw a large male lion approaching our campsite. It eventually disappeared into the bush near us never to be seen again. Creepy.

From Mpaya we headed to Lesholoago. A short hour and a bit away. The campsite is very private and overlooks the Lesholoago Pan very nicely. There is also a man-made water hole nearby which was well used by animals and birds while we were there. Again an A-frame, a long drop and separate cold water shower area. Even a double washup basin with cold water.

Driving round the Pan we saw many interesting creatures – Sun Squirrels, Meercats with their antics, Steenbok, Black-backed Jackal, Springbok as well as other antelope from time to time.

At night even the insects made for good viewing too.

As always the birds were special. In particular at the waterholes there were a huge variety of birds coming and going. Constantly flying in as a group and then scampering when one decides it is a bit nervous and flies off – the others following.

Some campsite birds:

Then there are the waterhole birds:

Mix of birds waiting for one to make the first move towards the water.

Burchell’s Sandgrouse and incoming doves and whydahs

Burchell’s Sandgrouse and Red-headed Finch

Burchell’s Sandgrouse coming in to waterhole

Some other birds seen around and about the area:

And not to be outdone here are some photos of the flora Sally caught on camera;

On our last evening there was a Leopard seen at the waterhole. We raced down to see it as it was starting to get dark. However our campsite Jackals (seen in camp each evening as we sat by the fire) decided that we might be in trouble. They hollered and chased the Leopard away before most of us had a chance to see it. We did try!!

Finally it was time to leave. Our plan was to drive out the Mabuasehube gate and drive down the fenceline to Tsabong. We were expecting thick sand but on the whole the road was very wide and more gravelly in nature especially after the first 40 kms along the fenceline.

Tsabong is very close to the RSA border. Should we consider going back to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we would choose to either visit Mabuasehube (via Tsabong and McCarthy’s Rest border post) or alternatively to visit the West side of the Park entering at Twee Rivieren. That avoids the unpredictable nature of the 200 km crossing from Nossob to Mabuasehube and back.

At Tsabong we all went in different directions. Arthur and Rose back to Twee Rivieren for another week in the Park. They travelled along the RSA/Botswana tarred road all the way. Brad and friend went back home via McCarthy’s Rest border post. While Sally and I headed for the Trans-Kalahari Highway at Sekoma to continue on to Namibia for a few more weeks.

Look out for the next installment of our time in Namibia.

Altogether we all had a great time together. The company was excellent with numerous tales each night round the campfire – of things seen or experienced during the day and past trials in the bush.

We all did our own thing daily depending on our interests – sometimes together, sometimes not. The food arrangements were well organised with a communal braai every third night – each couple assigned with a part of the meal for the night. Other days we all did our own thing for dinner but sat around the fire together to finish our meal.

Animal sightings were good and our bird list of 106 species included some very special sightings. If you would like to see our list then click here.

Of the 106 birds we identified I managed to get photos of about 80 – most shown above.

Cheers

Sally and Paul Bartho