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Kruger Part 5 Shingwedzi

Published on December 14, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part 5

Shingwedzi

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

21 to 23 November 2018

We only planned to have one full day here – and it was enough. Temperatures had climbed reaching over 42⁰ C at times. Thankfully there was a swimming pool to cool us down each afternoon.

On the way to Shingwedzi from Balule we stopped at Letaba for breakfast – hoping to see the mad woodpecker again – not this time.

We had tea and some birding at Mooiplaas picnic site. A must as it is an interesting birding site with tall trees by the river and next to the wild rustic Tsendze campsite.

At the Tropic of Capricorn both Splat and Rocky took a starring role.

Splat and Rocky enjoying being in the Tropics

Tsessebe appeared out of nowhere and Zebra and Buffalo gave us a crossed legged display of how to get down to the water at one of the waterholes.

Buffalo kneeling with both Red and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers attached

Red and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers on buffalo

We eventually arrived at midday at the camp.

Setting up Shingwedzi Campsite with Rocky

The tree beside our chosen site was visited by three different types of Woodpecker as we set up in the deserted camp.

Our time at Shingwedzi was spent dawdling down to the hide and Kanniedood Dam as well as taking the loop road to Bateleur Bushcamp and back along the Redrocks Road.

It is a good time of the year to visit this far north because few people venture even as far north as Letaba.

The hide was not worth the visit as there was no water in sight. However on the last loop road before the hide Sally spotted movement – a skulking Leopard below us alongside the river bed.

Everything was quiet further down towards the Kanniedood dam. Lack of water and damn hot.

That first evening we noticed three Little Swifts flying madly around inside the nearest kitchenette building to us. They were flying up and down, round and round and bashing into the wall. Eventually one fell to ground. I picked it up and released it outside but it went straight back in and it was soon on the floor again. This time we took it to our campsite and put it in a cool bag to settle down – planning to release it in daylight. Back at the kitchinette another Little Swift collapsed. Again I took it back to our site and Sally suggested releasing it away from the light. We did and it flew off into the night so we released the other as well. Peace and calm in the kitchenette and two happy birds we hope.

What was interesting was not only the very soft feel of the birds but also it gave us an opportunity to see their real size with wings extended.

On our one full day there, we headed down the road to the Bateleur Bushcamp. Very quiet most of the way. Anthills had silly expressions – as this one pointing us skyward.

But we did have a couple of great sightings. The most exciting and least expected was that of a Allen’s Gallinule. It was on its own in a small stretch of water in the river.

The other sighting was that of two White-headed Vultures doing a fly-over for us.

The road from the camp to the bridge is always interesting as it overlooks the river and has numerous large trees to investigate for Owls and other birds. At the bridge our first Broad-billed Roller was spotted.

A Martial Eagle flew over and another sat close for a photo.

A Goliath Heron had a Mad Hair Day in the river among other sightings.

Southern Ground Hornbills appeared on our travels round the camp – none had been ringed – much like those we had seen previously.

Despite our short visit we did manage to identify 97 different bird species. See list by clicking here.

From Shingwedzi we headed north to Punda Maria stopping at Babalala Picnic site for breakfast.

Breakfast at Babalala on way to Punda Maria

Our time at Punda Maria forms the next instalment. Kruger Part 6 – Punda Maria

Paul and Sally Bartho

Kruger Part 4 Balule

Published on December 12, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part 4

Balule

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

18 to 21 November 2018

On arrival we found a site by the fence close to where we had camped previously. We goofed on our estimation of the direction of the setting sun and ended up enjoying our afternoons in its full glory at 36 degrees and beyond unfortunately.

In the evenings the Hyenas made their patrol around the camp and one lay facing us with beseeching eyes every night – the same as happened when we last stayed at the camp.

We spent time on both nearby bridges checking out whatever appeared. That is the bridge on the main road and the fjording bridge by the camp.

One day crossing over we noticed numerous African Openbills landing up stream. Quite a sight through the scope.

Last year we came to try our luck at finding the Egyptian Vulture often reported as seen from the main bridge among the many White-backed Vultures. This year the White-backed Vultures were also present but like last year no sign of the Egyptian Vulture. However we did see Hooded Vultures below the bridge.

On two occasions we saw Southern Ground Hornbills.

Southern Ground-Hornbill, one of the 2nd lot

On one drive we ended up on a new road following the Ngotso North river – not shown on our old map nor on the GPS. Coming from Satara heading north, it is the first road on the right after the Timbavati turnoff (Ntomeni Road S127). There is a sign saying no caravans and that it is a one way road.

It is on this road that we encountered a female Leopard and her sub-adult on a number of occasions. Not to be outdone, there was another female Leopard and sub-adult seen in a tree beside the main road after crossing the main bridge heading north – with a huge carcass of an Impala hanging in the tree.

Leopard cub I,m cool and almost unnoticeable

On a visit to Letaba we had a strange sight of a Bearded Woodpecker trying to get into a electric power box in the campsite.

Birding was excellent and we identified 116 different bird species – see list by clicking here.

Golden-tailed Woodpecker female and male

Probably our best bird sighting was that of the Jacobin Cuckoo – not having seen one for quite a while, although the mad Bearded Woodpecker came a close second.

Our three nights passed quickly and we were soon on our way to Shingwedzi.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Kruger Part 5 – Shingwedzi to follow

Kruger Part 3 – Lower Sabie

Published on December 11, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part 3

Lower Sabie

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

14 to 18 November 2018

The next morning we left Malelane on our way very early to Lower Sabie for 4 nights.

We had not gone far on the tar when we were accosted by the same pack of 10 Wild Dogs that we had seen the previous evening. Again a lovely sighting with them surrounding our vehicle on their way to somewhere.

Our journey was mostly on the dirt roads – starting with the S25 towards Byamiti before heading north to Lower Sabie.

Animal sightings were few and far between. No Buffalos, no Rhinos and a paucity of Elephants. A remarkable contrast to the previous two days.

We beetled along the S25 reaching the Byamiti bridge in quick time. On approaching the bridge a large male Leopard strolled towards us in the river bed. Our bit of excitement for the day – very unexpected yet it was not for long before he had disappeared into the bush and gone before anyone else came along.

Once we were on the tar of the H4-2 (Croc Bridge to Lower Sabie) we headed north and on approaching the S82 shortcut on a dirt road, we noticed a pile of cars not too far up the road so we went for a look see. More Wild Dogs doing one of their favourite things – sleeping in the shade.

Eventually we arrived at Lower Sabie and by 10h30 we had set up camp.

We had planned to meet up with some friends who were staying at Ngwenya lodge, Cecil and Jenny Fenwick and Dave and Jenny Rix. I gave them a buzz and they were at Sunset Dam right outside the camp. We enjoyed a very tasty lunch in the Mugg and Bean with a few tipples and caught up on their news of the area.

Lower Sabie is centrally based to explore a wide range of habitats. There are many special places to visit.

Crocodile Bridge is south – often an excellent campsite to stay at. However, at the moment it is very very dry, parched with hardly a blade of grass. Taking the S28 backroad to Crocodile Bridge there is the Ntandanyathi bird hide. Well worth a visit as there always seems to be water there. It is comfortable and birds love it too.
North there is the Mlondozi picnic site overlooking the dam – unfortunately now bone dry.
Further north is Tshokwane Picnic site – a good stop off point for breakfast or heading north and checking out the birds in the campsite. African Mourning Doves very much darker than anywhere else.
Then there is the main tar road to Skukuza following the Sabie River with numerous lookout points along the way. Very popular, justly so, as a wide variety of big game is often seen along the river. On the opposite side there is also a dirt road which is less used to follow the river.
The bridges across the Sabie at Lower Sabie and near Skukuza are both worth a visit especially when there is lots of water.
Mpondo Dam – a longer drive – always seems to have water and is good for both birds and animals. Pity that it does not have a place where you can get out of your vehicle.
Then there is the Deck at Lower Sabie at the Mugg and Bean restaurant. A good place for sundowners and to watch the wildlife along the long open stretch of river. Often Lion, Leopards, Elephant and Buffalo are seen.
Sunset Dam just outside the gate is special. The hippos are constantly noisy throughout the day and soak happily with the dozens of crocodiles. Of course, the bird life is also good and many unexpected animals often make an appearance.

Unless you book well in advance it is always difficult to get a campsite booking. November seems to be one of those months where bookings are possible. We spent four nights there.

During our time at Lower Sabie we visited most of the places listed above and had some very active birding – identifying 142 different species. Click here to see our list.

And birding in the camp and from the deck at the Mugg and Bean restaurant is always good. The water fountain as you enter reception has it seems resident White-browed Robin-Chats.

White-browed Robin-Chat

Then there are the Barn Owls in the rafters of the Mugg and Bean restaurant.

And then there are the birds found in the grounds.

Colourful lizards running around on the trees.

And lucky sightings off the deck.

On our first day we went to the Bird Hide on the S28. It was here that my bird expert, Sally, spotted a bird nearby with a pink bill. She called me over to see the Greater Honeyguide. Fascinating as four more turned up. It was only then that we realised we had made a big booboo. See photo below.

Also making an appearance was a wiggly snake in the bushes immediately in front of the hide. It had a dual bluish tone to it and was at least a metre long. Some suggested it might be a water snake – see what you think and let us know.

While on the S28 we took the turnoff to what was the Nhlanganzwani Dam – having been told by Cecil that there were 3 Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls in a tree part way down next to a large muddy area. Missed them all on the way to the dam but Sally’s sharp eyes found one on the way back.

The following day we took the dirt tracks S128 and S30 on the north side of the Sabie River towards Skukuza. The highlight of this decision was to have an excellent sighting of an Eurasian Golden Oriole.

There was very little water under the main Skukuza bridge. So we headed for the Lake Panic hide. There was water but much of the area was dry. However, the birds made their appearances and we enjoyed an hour or more in the hide.

Our trip back to Lower Sabie on the tar road turned up the usual sightings of many elephants and some lions – doing what they always seem to be doing – lying down!

On one of our drives we were fortunate in seeing a Cheetah with cubs. At first we thought there was only one but as they moved on another came out of hiding.

Sunset Dam is so close to the camp that it gets lots of attention. Birding is always interesting and animals are often seen drinking.

White-faced Whistling Ducks all in a row

Some of the other animals seen around the area included many elephants and a good sighting of a leopard dozing in a tree.

Photos of other birds seen in the general area:

Swainson’s and his mate the Natal Spurfowl – odd to see them together

White-backed Vulture on nest …one of several nests on the S130

Eventually it was our time to leave. North. We headed for Tshokwane then on to the wild camp at Balule for 3 nights.

The sky had got a bit overcast and blustery but still there was no sign of rain.

Just after passing the Mlondozi Dam we noticed a bird flying just over the grassland. Fortunately it did not disappear behind us as there was no way to turn around while towing the campervan.

It was some way off but we recognized it immediately – a white Harrier with black at the end of its underside wings – a Pallid Harrier. How lucky were we!! Even managed a photo or two.

Tshokwane was quiet. Perhaps it was the weather as there were few birds about.

Breakfast time. I set up the table as Sally inspected the plumbing. Out came the coffee, tea, sugar, milk, water, hot water, mugs and spoon, a few biscuits and bananas. The next thing I saw was a ghost fly across the table and suddenly disappear. No more bananas – the monkeys enjoyed them as did the people watching !! They always catch you underwares.

Paul and Sally Bartho

And on to Balule for Kruger Part 4.

Kruger Part 2 – Malelane Campsite

Published on December 10, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part 2

Malelane Camp

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

12 to 14 November 2018

The drive from Wakkerstroom was quite scenic, especially going through Barbeton. After an early start we arrived at the Kruger Park Malelane gate at midday. It was a pleasant surprise that we were able to check in at the gate for the campsite and not have to go to Berg-en-dal.

The campsite was deserted except for us for the two days we were there. The huts were in use. The advantage of being at this campsite compared to Berg-en-dal is that we were able to get out onto the main road towards Skukuza well before anyone from Berg-en-dal and an hour ahead of the main gate opening.

The temperature was in the high 30s on arrival and it stayed as the norm during the days we were there. Nights were a lot cooler with a pleasant breeze. Being so dry there were hardly any insects or mossies to worry about.

That afternoon our drive was full of the Big Big 5 – Elephant everywhere, Buffalo en-masse, and White Rhino around every corner it seemed. It was only at the last minute before closing time that we were treated to the sight of a very large male leopard – flat out fast asleep under a distant tree.

The first morning we headed north on the H3 heading for Transport dam – the Egyptian Vulture on our mind. Birds were plentiful on the drive and so were the Rhinos and Elephants. We even came across several packs of Hyenas – busily off to somewhere or sleeping in the shade.

On the way we stopped for a bird call which excited Sally and hence me too. Sally recognized the call of the Coqui Francolin but had yet to have any decent views of one. We did not have long to wait before it was spotted on the side of an ant hill 20 metres distant. A Female. No longer a BVD for Sally.

Then as we turned off the tar to Transport Dam Sally heard a Coqui calling again. After some time we located it – well hidden at the base of a tree in long grass. Eventually we were able to ID it as a male.

Transport dam was full but no sign of any Vultures of any kind. Despite that we had a number of sightings of interest. There were the usual bunch of water birds as well as a dozy crocodile. An African Fish-Eagle being mobbed by Lapsmiths. Water Thick-knee were present.

In the photos below you will see a great comparison in size of a Water Thick-knee and a Malachite Kingfisher.

Malachite Kingfisher cf Water Thick-knee

After a lunchtime dinner back at the camp we took another drive on the dirt roads – numerous Game Drive vehicles – very unpleasant with all the dust they create. Windows constantly opened and closed. Yet we still had sightings to keep our minds attentive.

A brief visit to Berg-en-dal gave us the opportunity to scout for Parrots. To start with – on arrival there was a bus load of guests milling about in the parking area waiting to embark their Game Vehicle. They had been waiting for 40 minutes.

The vehicle was there. The problem was that a Spitting Cobra had beat them to it and was seen in the driver’s cab. They had been trying to remove it. In the end that vehicle was not used as it was still there when we left. Either they had found alternative transport or given the guests a refund. It was fortunate that the snake was not in the back where the guests sit.

The Dam at the camp was bone dry, however the birds were calling and one of those calls was that of a Parrot. After much searching the various fruiting trees they were spotted and I managed to get a shot or two.

On the way back we were treated to a pack of wild Dogs on the road – 10 in all. They were starting to get on the move and we followed them down the road for a while. They were quite close to our camp.

Altogether we identified 103 different bird species in the area. Click here to see the list.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Part 3 Lower Sabie to follow

Kruger Part I – Wakkerstroom

Published on December 9, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Kruger Part I

Wakkerstroom

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

11 to 12 November 2018

Yes I know – Wakkerstroom is nowhere near the Kruger National Park. But we wanted a stay over to break the journey from Howick to Malelane. We drove over 300 kms in just under 4 hours and we had a further 380 to Malelane so this was a good place to stop over in particular for a bit of birding.

The cottage accommodation at Birdlife South Africa, Wakkerstroom was very reasonably priced and comfortable to boot– a bonus. Well worth spending time there in future and taking a guide to see the local specials – Botha’s and Rudd’s Larks, Blue and White-bellied Korhaan, Yellow-breasted Pipit to name a few.

We arrived early – at midday – so we were able to explore the wetland area next to the town during the afternoon.

The wetlands are fairly extensive and full of wildlife – predominantly birds. Which contrasts markedly with all the dams we passed on the way to Wakkerstroom.

During the afternoon we identified 59 different bird species – click here to see the list.

Noticeable were the many African Snipes on the mudbanks beside the road leading up to the bridge close to the hides.

Pictures of other waterbirds photographed.

On a drive out of town towards Piet Retief (R543), we came across some unusual mammal species – Sable to start with then some we had not seen before and took a long while to identify.

Can you identify them?

The following morning we left early and arrived at Malelane Camp at midday. Previously we had to check in at Berg-en-dal but now check in is at the gate when you enter the Kruger Park – a sensible and welcome change.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Kruger Part 2 Malelane Birding to follow.

Nambiti – Elephant Rock

Published on November 4, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Sally and Paul Bartho

30 October 2018.

After the wedding in Kamberg, Sally treated her two sons from Australia to a two night stay at Elephant Rock in Nambiti.

We had a family cottage – two en-suite bedrooms overlooking a dam.

We arrived at lunchtime in blistering sunshine and enjoyed a pleasant meal with a fair share of tipples.

Then, when it was time for the afternoon drive at 16h00 the weather went overcast and was decidedly cooler on the way back.

Birding was not the name of the game. We shared the vehicle with six others from Germany. Most of the interest was focussed on the Big Five and other animals. Birds were not a priority – much as we expected- but the drives did stop for birds we thought others might be interested in. Despite that we identified 93 different bird species. Click here to see our list.

The following day the weather was much cooler with a bit of drizzle on both morning and afternoon drives. On the last morning no-one was interested in the morning drive because of the rain and cold.

Service was excellent. Breakfasts were superb and lunches filling but we found the dinner on the second day not up to the super standard of the first day. The management understood our feelings and I am sure this will not be repeated in the future.

Our birds photographed:

It was not all about birds. We did have a number of interesting animal sightings. As expected we saw four of the Big Five – only the Leopard was missing. The Rhino was a White Rhino so you could say we only saw three!

There were two new male lions introduced from the Eastern Cape which we found fairly quickly having as you would expect a nap.

We also unexpectedly bumped into another pride of four lions – a male and three females.

Not to be outdone were the Giraffe, Kudu, Hippo and Warthogs among many other species not photographed.

Then we were entertained by Buffalo and Cheetah.

We came across a herd of about 50 Buffalo with many boisterous calves. It was fun watching their antics chasing each other trying to assert dominance.

Then there were the two Cheetah juveniles with their mother. The young must have been enjoying the cool weather as they romped around chasing each other.

It would be interesting to return with a compliment of ten birders taking over the whole camp and focusing on birding. I know the guides would relish this for a change.

Cheers

Paul and Sally

Highmoor and Glengarry

Published on November 4, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

28 October 2018

Sally and I went to a small holding near Glengarry. Sally’s son and fiancee Michelle Lutener’s property.

We went to witness their marriage on their property. Family from all over the world came to celebrate with them. Magic. Great sunny day and wonderful venue.

We spent 4 days up there. On the day after the wedding, Sally and I drove up to Highmoor NR doing a quick two hours of birding including a short walk to the first dam at the top.

Birding was quiet despite our early start. in total we identified 31 different species of birds. Click here to view the list.

Here are some photos of the birds we did manage to see.

Mountain Reedbuck were seen near the Highmoor Dam – quite far away but nonetheless very skittish. Their call attracted them to us.

The highlight in the animal world appeared one night on the way back to the small holding – a Porcupine.

Cheers

Paul and Sally Bartho

Lesser Frigatebird – St Lucia

Published on October 14, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Sally and Paul Bartho

11 to 13 October 2018

On the spur of the moment, Sally and I decided to dart over to St Lucia to try our luck at seeing the immature Lesser Frigatebird.

The day started off very pleasantly, however by the time we reached St Lucia – four and a half hours later – it was overcast and windy. The forecast was for foul weather to come.

Nevertheless we persisted in trying our luck that afternoon. Up and down the beach next to the lagoon wherever we saw Terns. At one point I sank knee deep into the quicksand- looked just like hard sand by the water’s edge. Had to lie flat down to extricate myself. Lovely black mud everywhere below thigh level. Fortunately both camera and binos got off lightly. Then to the beach to wash off in the sea. Nothing quite like walking with shoes and sox full of sand.

Managed to do it a second time trying to cross a small stream to get onto a sandbank in the lagoon. Not so serious that time.

There were many waterbirds about, hundreds of waders – Three-banded Plovers, Curlew Sandpipers and Common Ringed Plovers mainly. Nine Black Oystercatchers, Pink-backed Pelicans, Greater and Lesser Flamingos in abundance, African Spoonbills etc.

On checking the Swift Terns we noticed a couple of Little Terns. They are really very very little. The photo below shows how small one is compared to the Curlew Sandpiper in front of it.

Little Tern with Curlew Sandpiper in foreground

After some time we reached the end of the lagoon with no joy. Then the bird appeared at a distance over the lagoon bombing the Swift Terns, and Flamingos putting them all to flight. Many photos were taken at a distance in dim overcast conditions. Most were consequently of poor quality.

Greater Flamingos take to the air due to Lesser Frigatebird (top right)

Then as we sat watching at the end of the lagoon where the Terns had just settled about 150 metres away, along came the Frigatebird to disturb them. However it was not the Terns which it was after but a very large Pink-backed Pelican. Coming, it appeared straight in line with us and the photos I got show the comparative wing sizes of the two birds. A fortunate mini series of shots.

Lesser Frigatebird chasing Pink-backed Pelican

A very hot shower was welcome when we got back, not only to get rid of the mud and blown sand but also to warm us up.

The next morning we were up early hopeful of a brighter day in which to see the Lesser Frigatebird – not to be. Windy and overcast it remained. After a couple of hours we gave up and went to Western Shores for the rest of the morning.

Birding there was very quiet and like all the animals pretty scarce. However we did manage a few nice sightings of which the Martial Eagle was the pick of the day.

Red-breasted Swallows were seen mainly on the roads in the rain.

And then we came across an unusual sighting. It looked like a spiders had wrapped a web all round a bunch of leaves. On closer inspection there were many red ants running about on the bundle. Later we learned that these are Weaver Ants and that these bundles are commonly seen in KZN coastal forests. The webbing is in fact glue.

Here is an excerpt from Joseph Banks’ Journal found in Wikipedia “The ants…one green as a leaf, and living upon trees, where it built a nest, in size between that of a man’s head and his fist, by bending the leaves together, and gluing them with whitish paperish substances which held them firmly together. In doing this their management was most curious: they bend down four leaves broader than a man’s hand, and place them in such a direction as they choose. This requires a much larger force than these animals seem capable of; many thousands indeed are employed in the joint work. I have seen as many as could stand by one another, holding down such a leaf, each drawing down with all his might, while others within were employed to fasten the glue. How they had bent it down I had not the opportunity of seeing, but it was held down by main strength, I easily proved by disturbing a part of them, on which the leaf bursting from the rest, returned to its natural situation, and I had an opportunity of trying with my finger the strength of these little animals must have used to get it down.”

In the afternoon we did return to look for the Lesser Frigatebird. It was present but we were unable to get any better sightings of the bird as it kept its distance and the sky was grey again.

Saturday morning was not only windy and overcast but it was also squalling. Instead of going to the beach we went into Eastern Shores. Surprisingly none of the dirt roads were closed. We were happy having a 4×4 to drive on them. In places the mud was very slippery and we watched one 4×4 almost slide off the road and down the bank.

Elephants had been out the night before along one of the dirt roads and in one place had downed a large tree across the road with no chance to go round. A long careful reverse was required to find a suitable place to make a U-turn.

Despite all the adverse weather we did manage to identify 107 bird species (click here to see the list) during the time in St Lucia as well as seeing several Rhino and a large herd of Buffalo. Most of the antelope species were hunkered down and not very noticeable.

Cheers

Paul and Sally Bartho

Mapungubwe NP, Ratho and Golden Gate NP

Published on September 24, 2018 by Paul BarthoLeave a comment

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

9 to 13 September 2018

Sally and I have just spent four nights camping in Mapungubwe NP at the top-most part of RSA bordering Botswana and Zimbabwe.

We went there between the Bird Fair (at Walter Sisulu Gardens) and the Getaway Show (at the TicketPro Dome) – both in Jo’berg on consecutive weekends. It was the first time we had been to either show.

Our first issue was to find a campground within easy distance from each location. At first our search on Google Maps showed that there were no campsites reasonably close to either venue. However after much searching we did find one campsite – The Guest House @ Country Lodge in Muldersdrift situated between each venue and within 20 kms of each.

We went to the Opening Day of the Bird Fair – Saturday 8 September – in Walter Sisulu Gardens. This is a very appropriate venue in a wonderful setting. The Fair was equally as interesting. It had stands with everything appropriate to birding as well as talks from a variety of people – even a puppet show for the kids which the adults enjoyed equally. Faansie Peacock’s new book – “A fully fledged field guide… for kids” – was for sale. What a well written book and appropriate not only for kids but new and old adult birders as well.

Walter Sisulu NP is renowned for its Verreaux’s Eagles and their nest in the cliffs. We were not disappointed and had views of them on their nest with their offspring as well as in the air.

Then on to Mapungubwe NP to fill in time between the shows. Another 550 kms drive!!

Mapungubwe NP is divided into two sections – the Eastern and Western sides – with Den Staat Farm in between. See map above. The campsite is in the Western section and the reception is in the Eastern section – some 34 kms apart.

The Den Staat Farm has always had interesting ponds to search for amazing water birds. Permission to enter required. However, when we inquired about going there we understood that the farm had changed hands and the ponds are now all dry. No longer a special birding spot.

Right now both sides of the Park are extremely dry and dusty. The fences are broken in long stretches and cattle wander across the river from Botswana to forage in the Park. Sad that management appears to not have the funds needed to maintain the fences.

Impala enjoying the trees near the Mazhou campsite

Some camp birds.

Our first afternoon and next day we spent driving round the Western section, spending time at the Maloutswa Hide overlooking a patch of wetland (water supplied to maintain the wetland).

Perhaps the best sighting at the water hole was a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl nesting in a Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver’s nest.

In one spot we confronted a few elephants by the river.

Then we came across a Holy Tree.

After that, this juvenile Bataleur nicely framed.

At another spot we found a very rough access point to the river and picked up a few water birds amongst others on the way there.

In all we identified 92 different bird species. Our bird list for everywhere we visited can be seen later in this report.

One of the highlights of our time there was to see a Bushpig in the daylight. It had a lovely white mane which went from neck to rump. Most unexpected sighting.

Another day was spent in the Eastern section. The first bird we saw as we entered was a Red-headed Weaver which flitted about making it impossible to get a photo. A bit further along we came to a lookout point set high above the valley below where Baobabs appear in a barren landscape.

We headed for the chalet accommodation at Leokwe nestled in a boulder strewn enviroment.

On the way to Leokwe, Splat (our life-like Platapus furry toy) waved at a passing Park’s vehicle. It screeched to a halt. Out jumped the driver who came running up to our car. Oh-oh I thought. Well the driver, Leonard, immediately said, “I know you. You were in the Kruger Park at Pafuri 7 years ago driving a Kia”. We were astonished that he had remembered us – it must have been Splat whom he recognised.

Anyway he told us to follow him as he had something to show us. So we followed him virtually to the far end of the park to the old SADF bunker.

We had been there some 7 or 8 years ago and had intended to go there again during our visit. The benefit this time was having Leonard with us as we were able to get out of the car and walk around the area.

Specifically beneath the two large Nyala trees where we had seen a pair of Pel’s Fishing Owls all those years ago. And sure enough he pointed out another (or the same?) pair. What a wonderful happenstance meeting Leonard.

Sadly, we later learned that this wonderful spot at the SADF Bunker is being considered as a future picnic site. If this goes ahead then Goodbye to the Pel’s Fishing-Owls (and their likely breeding spot). Can we afford to let this happen? We have let Mark Anderson know about this and hope he has some influence with SAN Parks to avoid this going ahead.

Close to the Bunker the river did have a large area of standing water in it where we saw a small variety of waterbirds.

We went for a walk up to the viewing point overlooking the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers. As you can see the rivers at this point were absolutely dry and cattle could be seen wandering into the Park from the opposite side.

Limpopo and Shashe Rivers. Shashe with the large expanse of sand.

Red-billed Oxpecker on back of – yes – a cow.

From there we went to the tree top boardwalk and hide. The photo below shows the damage the elephants have caused to part of the entrance.

Some birds and other colourful critters photographed.

In all we identified 71 different bird species during the course of the day there.

On our final day we visited Ratho camp – due west of Pontdrift which is the border crossing into Botswana near the western-most edge of the Park. This crossing enters into the Tuli Block in Botswana. Should you want to visit the Tuli Block for a day visit we were told that it would cost you R700 to enter. Not sure if that cost applies per person nor if it applies if you simply want to drive through into other parts of Botswana.

Ratho sign to turn off the main road going to Pontdrift.

We had stayed at Ratho many years ago so it was interesting to see if it had changed much. At that time they had a 4×4 bush camp atop of a hill with a scenic loo overlooking the valley below. This has now gone, the area having been sold. However a new 4×4 camp has been established in the area next to the river.

There are now several drives alongside the river where elephants were seen to roam. The main camp has a deck overlooking a waterhole where the elephants often are seen.

However the most interesting thing we learnt from the owner – Sandra- was how the whole camp was submerged after the floods one year. In the pictures below you can see me pointing to the height of the water level marked on the tree. Surprisingly the essence of the camp remained and was refurbished. It was quite unimaginable to visualise the extent of the area under water.

We had a short drive along the riverside and identified 40 different bird species.

Grey Heron in breeding plumage – red beak

Eventually it was time for us to leave and head back to Jo’berg and the Getaway Show. We stayed at the same campsite as we had the previous weekend. This time without power nor water. Broken transformer and water shutdown. Fortunately we had own supply of both.

The Getaway Show covered everything associated with 4×4 camping. There were displays of all the main offroad campervans for people to examine. Probably the best way to assess which one you prefer.

At lunch time we visited Isdell House in Pinegowrie where we were treated to a full hour and a half tour guided by Mark Anderson. It was very impressive what they have done there. The whole concept is “Green” at its best. One day soon they may even be off the grid.

The support they got from various donors – the Isdell’s in particular – has been very generous. Virtually all the furnishings, building supplies have been donated by various companies keeping the cost of rebuild to an absolute minimum.

And the paintings, sketches, photos and prints – most signed by the artists – are extremely valuable. The library has a large selection of books donated by members. The policy of donated books is to offer the Orthonological Library first choice, then books come to Isdell’s library where some are kept, field guides donated to guides and schools, and the rest sold on – the proceeds of which go into the capital fund.

Such a well run operation with a very dedicated and happy team. It was a pleasant surprise to be guided around by Mark and to glean first hand of the story of Isdell House.

To break the journey home we decided to go to Golden Gate and camp for 2 nights with the hope of seeing vultures at the vulture restaurant, and Cape Eagle-Owl(s) along the cliffs bordering the campsite.

Our campsite sheltered from the icy wind by the ablution block.

The first thing we realised when we got to the campsite was the noisy people. Friday and Saturday nights are party nights and all passing traffic had their music at full blast. It is also a place for bikers.

There are two loops to bird along. One loop goes up tp 2150 metres while the vulture hide is on the other lower loop. Most of the habitat is high grassland with bordering cliffs. Bird variety is therefore limited.

Drakensberg peaks showing the Devil’s Tooth on the left

Our bird list for here and Mapungubwe can be seen by clicking here. Our afternoon and early morning bird list amountes to 23 different bird species here at Golden Gate.

We dipped on the Cape Eagle-Owl – not even hearing it. Not surprising really as the camp noise drowned out all other wildlife calls.

Black Wildebeest, Blesbok and Zebra were plentiful on the mountain slopes. Eland and Mountain Reedbuck were also seen.

The vulture hide was relatively quiet. No vultures, just White-backed Ravens, Cape Crows and a lonely Southern Bald Ibis.

The weather was very windy – perhaps that was why there were so few sightings. However we did see one Bearded vulture fly over the hide just as we had returned to the car.

All the other birds we had seen there took to the skies. So we raced back in the hope that the Bearded Vulture had landed – unfortunately it turned out to be another breathless walk 400 metres back to the hide to no avail.

African Stonechats were everywhere but this one had us fooled for a while.

After our morning’s drive round both loops the wind picked up. That was enough for us and we packed up and returned home a day early.

Hope you enjoyed the account and photos.

Paul and Sally Bartho

A Blast to the Past – Flock 2017

Published on August 14, 2018 by Paul Bartho1 Comment

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

24 to 28 April 2017

Flock 2017 was an outstanding birding experience which I know many people would relish doing again. It is incredible that BirdLife South Africa managed to virtually fill all the cabins with birders on MSC Sinfonia. As everyone said, this must be a world record for the largest flock of birders gathered together in one place.

Almost 2000 birders from all over the world were on board including many of the seabird experts worldwide.

The BLSA organisation of the trip was highly professional. The AGM was well organised, there were interesting talks, prizes and entertainment and the guiding on board was exceptional for us novices.

We left Cape Town on a lovely clear day and were escorted out to sea by a number of seals and dolphins.

The route was planned by the very willing captain according to BLSA wishes.

Our first day of birding started at dawn and lasted to dusk (as did every day) with quick dashes away for food etc. It was also one of those days when numerous different exciting and rare birds appeared. Sometimes we were unable to keep up with a special bird appearing on one side of the boat and another rare bird on the opposite side.

And from our height above the sea we were lucky if we got a few decent photos of any of the birds. For me, virtually every bird was a lifer having never been on a pelagic trip before.

A quiet moment at the back of the ship – normally each level was teeming with birders. Also at the front too.

The ship’s entertainment areas were virtually empty during the day, however the bars at night were quite popular. I think the staff were mystified by all us birders as they tried to talk us into the large empty casino and away from the birding.

That first morning there were seven different species of Albatross seen – Black-browed, Indian Yellow-nosed, Light-mantled, Shy, Sooty, Tristan and Wandering. The Light-mantled Albatross had all the guides screaming as this was most unexpected.

For our Bird List click here. Of the 21 species shown 17 were lifers for me, and 7 for Sally. There were numerous other lifers called out which unfortunately we were not at the right place at the right time.

Here are some photos of birds I did managed to connect with. I hope I have correctly identified most of the birds in the pictures. Do let me know my mistakes. Note the Tristan Albatross was identified by Peter Harrison. I am aware that there is not full consensus on its ID as there is not enough published about the bird to clearly identify it beyond doubt. However Peter Harrison has done a huge amount of research on the bird and I will happily accept his opinion.

Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross gaining momentum for lift off

Cape Gannet – the only one in these photos that I had seen before.

Some birds I have struggled to identify from my photos include this Giant Petrel:

And these two birds:

There was fascinating birding along the sides of the ship each night. The lights from the ship enabled us to see the birds as they bobbed on the water alongside. It was interesting to watch as the Great Shearwaters diappeared behind the boat only to returne to the front and bob alongside again catching squid and other delicious morcels.

We understand that the bewildered captain was so impressed with the BLSA organisation and nature of our trip that he suggested we do it again but for a week or more next time.

Another memorable moment was the sunset and double rainbow at the end of the four nights at sea.

Intense golden double rainbow taken from our cabin

This was a wonderful trip that Sally and I will always fondly remember.

Hope you enjoy the memories.

Paul and Sally Bartho