Zululand

Report by Paul and Sally Bartho

1st to 5th April 2017

Following the report of a White-throated Bee-eater in Hluhluwe, Sally and I made an impulsive decision to see if we could find it.

We decided to camp in Bonamanzi as a base and were allocated a site in their new campsite. Each campsite with its own ablution. Unfortunately I incorrectly heard the price quoted to Sally, so when we arrived it was not the R220 for the site as I expected but for each of us per night. Had I known this I would have gone elsewhere – like Hakuma Matata.

Following our trip to the Cape for five weeks where the most we paid for a campsite was R240 for both of us, the prices for camping in Zululand have gone crazy. R440 per night camping in Bonamanzi which is nothing special is ridiculous. Perhaps that is why there was only one other camper there and we did not see anyone using the chalets either.

Moving on. On the way there we drove through Hluhluwe and spent an hour and a half in the area where the Bee-eater was reportedly seen. No luck. The next day was also spent in Hluhluwe searching the area for over three hours – again no luck.

Birding appeared quiet in general however we were surprised to find out that we did identify 91 different species over the day and a half. Here are some of the species photographed.

The following day we went to Isimangaliso, entering Western Shores through the north gate. The hide had water in it but was not busy, so we headed for the aerial boardwalk. At the top we could see that the water level had dramatically increased since the last time we were there.

Western Osprey flying over wetlands at Western Shores – view from the top of the aerial boardwalk

Some of the other species seen:

Red Dragonfly or Damselfly

Once through Western Shores we headed for Eastern Shores and had to wait more than half an hour to check in – such a slow process.

Eastern Shores was interesting. There was water around, so we checked out the pans but nothing much was about. Then we headed round the Vlei loop picking up birds here and there. At one section we came round the corner and the road ahead was blocked. A rather large Rock Python lay in the road.

Rock Python

The Mafazana hide was closed. It was unclear why but we suspect they are making a new entrance road to the hide.

Time for tea so we went to Catalina Bay. Fortunately the wind had died down. From on high we had good views overlooking the lake. Because the water was so high there were no waders about and very little else too. However an African Fish-Eagle made a pass looking for its next meal. From the photo it looks as though he has his eye on something rather large.

African Fish-Eagle
African Fish-Eagle with an eye on something rather large.

Then there was the Scarlet -chested Sunbird watching a White Rhino having a mud bath.

Lunch was fish and chips at the boat club overlooking the estuary. Across on the other side major reconstruction works were ongoing. The sand hillside is being removed. There were at least 5 diggers each with 3 dumper trucks – going back and forth to the beach dumping their loads.

In the estuary there were many Terns, a crowd of African Spoonbills, Saddle-billed Storks, Grey Herons, White-faced Ducks, Pink-backed Pelicans, other waterbirds and numerous waders. Unfortunately it was impossible to get close – too muddy.

African Spoonbills

We did however manage to get to the sea shore to find a couple of Common Whimbrels.

Common Whimbrel

On the way back we drove through Western Shores taking the uMphathe loop road. A Saddle-billed Stork was seen close to the road. It appeared to be looking for something. After a while it flew off with a clump of bush in its beak. We wondered where it was headed. Then we saw it land on its nest at the top of a tree on the horizon. It’s mate was there to greet him.

Saddle-billed Stork looking for nesting material

At the Kweyezalukazi Lookout point there were about 11 Lemon-breasted Canaries – exactly where we had seen them before.

Lemon-breasted Canaries

Then around the corner in an open plain we noticed a rapter at the top of a dead tree. Out came the scope but it was too difficult to identify. You decide – we thought it was either an Amur Falco or an Eurasian Hobby. Most likely the former.

And finally as we were about to leave the park – a Brown Snake-Eagle looking remarkable like a Bat Hawk because of its posture.

Brown Snake-Eagle trying to impersonate a Bat Hawk.

And then we went to camp in Mkuze. Prices way over the mark for camping. R300 per night for the site – up to 3 people. This is just another cheap trick to generate extra income as most people either come as a couple or single. They refuse to make any concessions for groups of one or two people. The ablutions are basic and there is no power from 09h00 till 17h00 and from 22h00 to 05h00. And there is now a R10 community charge on entry plus R7 per person per night in the reserve. Camping in Zululand is becoming too expensive for most potential visitors. No wonder there are so few people in the camps.

We only stayed one night.

Impala, Nyala and Baboons were plentiful with the odd Zebra and Wilderbeest but no other animals were seen during our stay.

Nsumo Pan was very full and the hides in good condition with some having new concrete walkways.

As usual the best place to spend midday was at kuMasinga hide. We did have one mystery bird there though. What do you think it may be?

Elsewhere round the park.

Having dinner at Mkuze we noticed a person’s face on one of our hanging tea towels. Could it have been Donald?

Who do you think it looks like?

And then some bird droppings on the side of the car looking like an owl in flight.

Owl in flight

Overall we identified 144 different bird species. To see what we identified and where click here.

Paul and Sally Bartho

 

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 1

Mkuzi Sunday 19 to Thursday 23 October.

Paul & Sally Bartho

Four days were spent in Mkuzi Nature Reserve. The weather was cool and overcast with some sun occasionally.

The Reserve was starting to look green due to the recent rains. Visibility into the bush was excellent. We were told another 3 lionesses were recently added bringing the lion population to 8 – they are very shy. The waterhole at the kwaMalibali hide was dry and the hide and walkway itself in desperate need of renovation. The campsite had sorted its water issues and was quite busy. Maintenance remains an issue with leaking taps everywhere.

The Fig Forest walk was the highlight simply because the Pel’s Fishing-Owl gave us great views. Narina Trogons and African Broadbills were also calling but not seen,

Pel's Fishing-Owl
Pel’s Fishing-Owl

We came across a Crowned Lapwing nest with 2 eggs right beside a side road. The Lapwing parents were nearby. However a couple of days later the nest had gone.

In the campsite we could hear the African Broadbill calling nearby. Eventually we found one in the camp out in the open. Then it dashed back into the bush and we could hear it wing-snapping for a long time but it did not call.

We witnessed the arrival of a pair of Wahlberg’s Eagles near their nesting site close to the start of the loop road. They settled into a nearby tree and went through their mating ritual.

Birding was excellent as usual with a number of specials sighted including the Pels fishing-Owl; African Broadbill (in the campsite); numerous raptors including a mating pair of Wahlberg’s Eagles; a silent but obliging Diderick Cuckoo; Rudd’s Apalis; a number of Black-bellied Bustards; Village Indigobird in transition; Striped Kingfishers calling everywhere; Eastern Nicator; Western Osprey; vocal Bearded Scrub-Robins; Broad-billed and Lilac-breasted Rollers; Neergaard’s Sunbird; Pink-throated Twinspots to name a few.

As usual, the kuMasinga hide midday proved to be one of the best and most relaxing spots to see a wide variety of birds and animals as they come to drink.

Photo Gallery of some of the birds and other creatures we saw – including a couple of Mystery birds:

In all we saw 168 different bird species. Click here to see our list.

And then we were off to the Kruger National Park for four weeks, entering at Crocodile Bridge. Part 2 to follow.