Cape Adventure – Part 2

Paul and Sally Bartho

Part 2.

From Cape Town we headed for Eland’s Bay and a campsite Sally had read about in the Caravan and Outdoor Life Feb issue – Ventersklip overlooking Verlorenlei (the lost marsh) leading into the sea. Negotiated price from R480 to R300 for 2 nights.

Unfortunately the water level was low so water bird sightings were few at the campsite.

We decided to stay two nights and use it as a base to bird in the area in particular to try and find the Protea Canary along the Paleisheuwel Road (off the N2 eight kms south of Clanwilliam) and to visit Lambert’s Bay to see the Cape Gannet colony.

Protea Canary first – a lifer for me but not Sally. Sally had seen it when we visited Betty’s Bay some years ago. I was too slow carrying my binoculars, scope and camera at the time.

We drive along the Paleisheuwel Road to the craggy gorge, stopping and searching for some time. Then at one spot we stop. I let Sally out and park out of the way of the traffic. As I get out Sally calls me – she has it in her binocs. Sure enough by the time I get there it has gone!

Another hour traipsing up and down the road in the area getting dust blasted as the traffic seemed unnaturally heavy on this off-road dust bowl. It seemed there were White-throated Canaries everywhere and no Proteas. We saw Cape Buntings, a Verreaux’s Eagle overhead and a Lesser Honeyguide foraging. No Protea Canary.

And then as we were about to give up and after much persistence we spot a Protea Canary, get a good look at it. Unfortunately not able to get a photo as it was not stationary long enough. This is the tree it was seen in.

On the way back we head for Lambert’s Bay and the Cape Gannet colony.

View of entry into Lambert’s Bay

Once in Lamberts Bay we stop and look at the hundreds of Cormorants on one of the rocky outcrops. Virtually all were Cape but we did spot one Crowned Cormorant.

Crowned Cormorant
Cape Cormorants – Lamberts Bay

Then to the bedlam of the Cape Gannet colony. Now a R5 parking charge and R40 per person to visit unless you have a Wild Card.

On the way in there were many Terns (Common, Sandwich and Swift) on the rocks leading to the Gannet colony. And some White-breasted Cormorant youngsters.

We headed for the Cape Gannet viewing hide. It looks like an out of place rock which gives it character.

The rock was strewn with a heaving mass of adults and juveniles. The juveniles a very dark fluffy grey in contrast to their parents.

Birds were everywhere in the air circling around perhaps to get away from their demanding young. Interesting to watch their behaviour towards each other. But also interesting to see how they landed. They would come down to land, put on the brakes, carriage down, feet on the ground, still too fast forward so using their nose/beak to the ground to counterbalance their forward motion.

Even a seal put in an appearance sticking one flipper out of the water.

Seal with one flipper out of the water

On the way out we were amazed at the size of the dolosse- put there as an effective sea break.


And then we were sent on our way by the Man of the Sea – an eight foot giant,

Man of the sea – created from sea debris.

We might have stayed another night at Ventersklip but the wind coming off the vlei was excessively strong and cool especially at night. Our canvas took a right beating in the wind.

Not having a planned itinerary we headed south towards Velddrif and the municipal campsite in Dwarskersbos – just over 12 kms north of Velddrif. Weekend rates R201 per night and the third night R100. This is a well shady campsite right by the sea so sometimes a bit windy. Another quirk – bring your own loo roll.

Our plan using Birdfinder was to bird the area around Velddrif and to meet up with friends in the West Coast National Park. They were staying in Langebaan.

We gained access to the local Cerebos salt pans, however they were very disappointing – some Greater and Lesser Flamingos and not much else. No waders, a few Great Crested Grebes, the odd Cape Wagtail.

We visited the rundown hide on the north bank of the Berg River in town. It is important to visit when the tides are low as the mud flats become more visible.

There was a greater variety of birds to be seen from the hide. Many Flamingos of both varieties, numerous Greenshank, the odd Marsh Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilts, Great Crested Grebe, Three-banded and Kittlitz’s Plovers, Gulls – Kelp and Grey-headed or Hartlaub’s, Grey Heron, Karoo Prinia, Cape Wagtail, Little Egret, Southern Double-collared Sunbirds, Sacred and Hadeda Ibis, Terns – Swift, Sandwich, Little and White-winged, Great White Pelican, Grey Plover, Avocet, Cormorants – White-breasted and Reed, Pied Kingfisher.

We also explored the area behind the salt pans. Heading south over the bridge we turned right and drove three kms to a dirt track leading up to the pans. At the first corner we started to see some waders – Common Greenshank, Kittlitz’s and White-fronted Plover, Grebes – Great Crested and Black-necked. Also on the inside of the corner there were Chestnut-vented Warblers and several Karoo Scrub-Robins. A worthwhile excursion close to town.

On our drive to Velddrif Buzzards were commonplace on the poles by the road – Common and Jackal Buzzards. We took the road along the north side of the river beyond the bird hide and on the way back explored some of the beachside tracks.

On one stretch there were several cosy and rustic fish restaurants (which we tried out the following day), some with decking over the water.

Die Vishuis

At one point along there we spotted the Yellow-billed Stork previously reported in Trevor Hardaker’s Rarities reports. We took a photo and sent it to Trevor as an update.

Yellow-billed Stork

Then we headed for Langebaan and the West Coast NP travelling via Paternoster. Along the way we had a great nearby sighting of Blue Cranes and their two juveniles. And at another stop Namaqua Sandgrouse and Namaqua Doves.

Then there was one mystery bird which we still find difficult to identify. If you do, then please let us  know – ( Could it be a Large-billed Lark?

In West Coast NP, we met our friends from Durban at the Seeberg Hide.

Entrance to Seeberg Hide

What a special place it turned out to be apart from the very long walk down to it. There were 4 huge groups of different birds – small waders in particular Little Stints all lined up in neat rows; A variety of Terns –Sandwich, Swift, Common and Little; large groupings of Greater and Lesser Flamingos and last but by no means least Bar-tailed Godwits (there must have been well over a hundred together).

Little Tern

Occasionally each group would take off for some reason. They swarmed together like schools of fish in the sea and then settled back down again. That was quite a sight to see.

Bar-tailed Godwits
Bar-tailed Godwits
A small flock returning

The Bar-tailed Godwits took turns to display themselves on the shoreline right in front of the hide. Amongst them were Little Stints, Curlew Sandpipers and other waders which we took ages to identify. You know what they say: If it is not this and not that etc then it must be a Knot – Red Knots in fact. Well done Sally in IDing them.

Red Knot and Bar-tailed Godwit

Then we had a Lesser Flamingo striding out in front of the hide trying to take off – which it eventually managed.

The fresh water hide – Abrahams Kraal, our next stop – was productive with sightings of some of the more common water bird species – Common Moorhen, Little Grebe, Red-knobbed Coots with chicks, Yellow Canaries and Cape Sparrow as well as a pair of Cape Shovelers.

Then we all went to Geelbeck for a snack among the trees next to the Restaurant. The wind was pressing but the sun warmed us up. As we sat eating, Cecil’s sharp eyes noticed a Rock Kestrel sheltering itself from the wind in an alcove immediately above the entrance to the restaurant. It was not at all perturbed by guests entering only feet below.

Rock Kestrel

Another long walkway to the Geelbeck Hide proved well worth it. Sally had got the tide right – 4.5 hours after Cape Town high tide according to Birdfinder. There were little or no birds to be seen in the marshes alongside the walkway. All were to be found on the mudflats in front of the hide. What a variety of waders and other water birds even an Eurasian Curlew was spotted, again by eagle-eyed Cecil.

Eurasian Curlew

Fortunately one side of the hide was protected from the wind and that also proved the more interesting side to see the birds.

Our campsite in Dwarskersbos was a birders delight. During the day we were serenaded by a variety of small birds all day long (at night the tree above our campsite was the local dove roost who left their calling cards all over our caravan and car).

During the night we had a pair of Spotted Eagle-Owls calling above us – Woo; WoWoo. During the day we noticed that there was one roosting above us and another in a nearby tree.

Then we had to think where to go next.

To be continued in Part 3.

Paul and Sally Bartho

Cape Adventure – Part 1

Cape Birding

 Sally and Paul Bartho

 Jan 25th to Feb 25th  2017


Our birding trip to the Western Cape was unexpected and unplanned. It happened like this.

So, while in Australia we had booked on a trip with Desert Magic to drive through the Skeleton Coast to the mouth of the Kunene River – hopeful of seeing the Royal Tern, Baird’s Sandpiper and Angolan Swallow amongst other specials.

We got back from Australia on January 12th and started preparing for the trip mid February. There was much to organise preparing the car for the trip – getting suitable roof rack and jerry can holders; extending the fuel tank, purchase of rugged tent etc etc – R30000 expected expenditure. We had made our decisions on what to purchase got home to get an email to say the trip was off as all permits to agents had been cancelled for travelling through the Skeleton Coast.

Disappointment. But we rallied, determined to go camping.

Five days later we were off to the Cape. We could not believe that all the specials at Strandfontein, Cape Town were still being seen. They all appeared at the beginning of December and we never expected that they would hang around till we got back. Then there was the Red-necked Buzzard in Stilbaai to see and as we set off another rarity – White-rumped Sandpiper at Coega in PE.

From Howick we headed north around Lesotho and on to PE. We had travelled over 200 kms before I realised we had forgotten our power lead – not only had we left it behind, we had left it behind attached to the trailer as we left! Thankfully we had left the house keys behind with friends and they were able to disconnect the lead from the garage plug and store it inside. Good start!

Thirteen hours later we pulled into Pearsons Caravan Park close to the PE White-rumped Sandpiper sighting. The campsite was well treed with lots of shade, close to the river and highway. The ablutions were passable. Cost R234 for the site, a 20% out of season discount for pensioners – a bit steep for what it offered.

The next morning we got out early and attempted to find our way to the sighting.  However, although we had the GPS co-ordinates we had to do a lot of driving up and down the N2 to figure a way to get there. Fortunately we could see where we wanted to be as it was visible as we crossed a bridge on the N2.

Once there, we had a long wait.

Most of the people like us were uncertain of what to look for. Then it made an appearance close by and we could clearly identify it from its ID features in the new Roberts (Sasol sketches were way off the mark).

Back to the campsite, pack up and off to Stilbaai to try and find the Red-necked Buzzard. The drive into Still Bay was quite picturesque.

We stayed at the municipal campsite (R130 a night for the site) which although rather open was very pleasant. We found a sheltered spot away from the wind, thankfully.

That afternoon we took a ride to Melkhoutfontein on the off chance we could find the bird. It was late and very windy and our trip turned out to be a scouting trip for the morrow. And the sky was looking ominous.

The next day we were up early and headed for Melkhoutfontein, however after scouring the areas where we had heard it had been seen, we could not find it. The wind was howling and the rain threatening so we headed back to the campsite, packed up and left just as the rain started. Heading for Cape Town and Chapman’s Peak Campsite.

What a horrendous drive in thrashing rain which caused us to stop several times to let the torrential rain settle. Windscreen wipers full blast and still unable to see clearly. The heavy rain lasted more than an hour while driving. What a relief when we eventually drove out of it.

As we approached Cape Town so we noticed that our Garmin GPS was not a reliable source of the speed limits. It often showed higher speed limits to those actually shown on the road. We learnt to watch out closely for the traffic speed signs. Unfortunately when we got home we found out that it had cost us R900.

Our GPS got us to Chapman’s Peak Campsite in Noordhoek without too much hassle. A smallish campsite in a rustic environment (R180 per site per night) with all sorts of creatures in and about – Peacocks, Chickens, Helmeted Guineafowl, numerous different Geese, Goats etc. – like a small farm holding.

The sites were shady but the ablutions had a strange quirk. Loads of hot water but little cold – made for interesting and hurried showers and occasional unflushed loos. We had chosen Chapman’s Peak as other possible campsites were either in undesirable areas or too far from Strandfontein Sewerage works – our goal. Despite that it was a 40 minute drive to Strandfontein Sewerage works.

The next morning we were off bright and early – probably one of the first to get to the Temminck’s Stint site on Pan 1. We hung around looking for over two hours. People came and went – virtually all saying they had seen it before and that it was always seen from one side or the other – no consensus.

Other birds and creatures came and went – African Snipe and Water Mongoose.

That kept us on our toes and spread out. Eventually we gave up too and went off to find the Red-necked Phalarope. No sooner had we thought we found it, we got a call to say the Temminck’s had shown up.

Back we went and we too eventually had a sighting of the bird. But it was always on the move and too far away to get a decent shot.

Temminck’s Stint

We hung around for a while enjoying the snippets of a view of the bird. Apparently Baillon’s and Spotted Crakes as well as Pectoral Sandpiper had also been seen in the same spot during December. When we were there the reeds had grown substantially since December making viewing difficult and the Temminck’s had moved further away.

Next we headed for Pan 4 and the birding stand. Greater and Lesser Flamingos everywhere to be seen. Magnificent sight of numbers and colour. While on the stand we notice three Bar-tailed Godwits among the Flamingos.

The rest of the day was spent searching for the other specials we had missed, without success.

The next day we were back there again – first stop Temminck’s Stint. One thing we immediately noticed was that there were a lot of Little Stints present – none the day before. This as you would expect was bound to make it more difficult. However when Mr Temminck’s appeared the difference was obvious.

Then it was back to Pan 4 lookout stand. A bit of breakfast and the scope doing its business scouring the waders. What looks to be a Grey Plover was close by. However it appeared quite lean and then it unexpectedly flies and I see no black armpits. Rats I wish I had time to take a photo! Will we see it again?

Back to look for the Phalarope on Pan 2. We search high and low as Trevor Hardaker had told us he had seen it there. Scope out and we search the waders looking for something different.

Only problem was that we were looking for a bigger bird than the usual waders – Curlew Sandpipers and the like. Sally consults the new Roberts and as soon as she does she realises the mistake we were making and what to look for.

Once we learnt what to look for, the bird was very obvious among the other waders through the scope. Also the Phalarope was the only ‘wader’ swimming, all others standing or wading. Unfortunately too far away to get any reasonable photos. Great to see again. And a lesson learned – be prepared and read your field guide before setting out.

Then we headed back to Pan 4 lookout point. While waiting a bigger bird than the usual waders appears – a Plover. Immediately our hopes rise. Photos are taken. It is lean unlike the Grey Plover and its colouring quite pale with no black armpits – the American Golden Plover.

American Golden Plover

Back to the Temminck’s site for a final goodbye. Stay for a while but see no Temminck’s. However out of the woodwork appears the Pectoral Sandpiper! Not a lifer for either of us but also great to see again.

Here are some of the other birds photographed at the Sewerage Works:

The next day was spent in Table Mountain NR and then Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

Fortunately we arrived early at Table Mountain NR. No Wild Card then R130 per person entry.

We entered and took the first road right, down to the sea.

Along the way we saw Rock Kestrel and groups of Cape Siskin as well as Lesser Double-collared Sunbirds and Bokmakierie. At the beach head we found Karoo Prinia, Familiar Chat, Cape and African Pied Wagtails, Yellow Bishop, White-fronted Plovers, Egyptian Geese, African Black Oystercatcher, Swift, Sandwich and Common Terns.

Otherwise the Park was quiet bird-wise and then became extremely busy with bus tours so we left for Kirstenbosch.

Always a lovely spot to spend some time walking about – even if most of it seems to be uphill! We were treated to several sightings of Orange-breasted Sunbirds and Swee Waxbills. The Spotted Eagle-Owl was seen and we learned that it had three offspring nearby – which we failed to find.

Our adventure continues in Part 2.