We left Skukuza early morning and arrived at Malelane about 10h00. As you can check in at the Malelane Gate, we took advantage of that rather than checking in at Berg-en-dal. here we heard there had been a Leopard kill at the turn-off to the camp a couple of days earlier – all gone when we got there.
The first thing we noticed was that there had been a massive fire. It turned out that the fire had burnt all round Berg-en-dal from Malelane S110 as well as the S110 dirt roads back to the bridge over the H3. Massive burnt area with little bird life.
Malelane entrance
The campsite was empty and so we chose a site near the viewing point over the Crocodile river.
Camp Ground
Camp Ground
Camp Ground
Gate to the lookout area over the Crocodile river.
Lookout over the Crocodile river at the camp.
Campsite view
Our Campsite
Our Campsite
Our Campsite
Campsite birds were calling – Diderick and Klaas’s Cuckoos; White-throated and Red-capped Robin-Chats – and the Swallows were everywhere – on the ground and in the air.
Diderick’s Cuckoo – female
Diderick’s Cuckoo – female
Diderick’s Cuckoo – male
Diderick’s Cuckoo – male
Klaas’s Cuckoo
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Brown Snake-Eagle looking crabby
Black-headed Oriole
Black-backed Puffback
Barn and Lesser Striped Swallows
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Trumpeter Hornbill
Trumpeter Hornbill
Common Scimitarbill
Our neighbours on the fence-line were adult and juvenile Dwarf mongooses. The little one crept along our side of the fence and was not too concerned about us. It could be heard cheep cheeping and the adult responding in a lower pitch – keeping in contact no doubt or perhaps it was the other way round with the adult asking, “Where the heck are you?”
Dwarf Mongoose
This was the first time we had camped at the Malelane campsite- and it won’t be the last despite the lack of shade. Having said that we are beginning to realise that shade is not really essential in winter or if a silver cover is put over the campervan. Level ground and a good birding outlook is far more important and grass is a bonus.
During the short time we were there we planned to look for the Cocqui Francolin which we heard several weeks earlier (we had its GPS co-ords); visit Berg-en-dal to look around the grounds and to go to the bridge over the Crocodile river to see what birds were below.
Early the first morning we set off to try and find the Cocqui. At the bridge over the Matijulu we see a small herd of buffalo and a male Comb Duck perched at the top of a bare tree. In the nearby tree there were his 5 wives!
Small herd of Buffalo
Comb Duck – male
Comb Ducks -5 females
Further along on the S114 we find a bare patch of grass and two pairs of African Wattled Lapwings with chicks. Then an Eurasian Hobby in the gloom of a tree some way away followed by a pair of lovebirds – canoodling European Bee-eaters.
Eurasian Hobby
Eurasian Hobby
Eurasian Hobby
Lovebirds -European Bee-eaters
European Bee-eaters
African Wattled Lapwing
We push on towards the jock of the Bushveld Plaque where we had heard the Cocqui before. No luck – not even a peep this time. However in a tree beside the road out pops a Stierling’s Wren Warbler giving us some excellent views.
Stierling’s Wren-Warbler
Stierling’s Wren-Warbler
Stierling’s Wren-Warbler
On the way back we spot a king of the Beasts in all his majesty lying beside a fallen tree close to where we had just seen several White Rhinos and a number of elephant. Birds adorned the route as well.
Lion – his majesty
His Majesty
Despite such a short visit we observed 126 different bird species. Here are a few more pictures of other birds we had seen.
Cape Glossy Starling
Cattle Egret
Common Greenshank
Grey Heron
Green Woodhoopoe
Green Woodhoopoe
Jacobin Cuckoo
Jacobin Cuckoo
Jacobin Cuckoos mating
Long-billed Crombec
Levaillant’s Cuckoo
And then we were on to Ndumo for one of the Game Rangers’ Weekends. More in Part 10.
At last we made it to Tanglewood; the weather was not too good but at least it was not raining and it did improve as the morning wore on. There were 18/20 of us and our bird count was 69 (at tea) + we added a couple more on leaving.
Tanglewood Forest from the grassland area
Tanglewood
Tanglewood Dams
Cliff face at Tanglewood
Tanglewood – as you can see above – is a magical place. On arriving we drove past the dams and the temptation to stop was great but we carried on and parked under the trees near Caryl’s house.
We first went into the forest and a lot of the birding to begin with was based on call: Knysna & Purple-crested Turacos, Tambourine Doves, Red-chested & Klaas’s Cuckoos, brief glimpses of the Natal Robin, Cape Batis, Dark-backed & Spectacled Weavers (plus nests) & the Square-tailed and Fork-tailed Drongos were everywhere.
Southern Black Flycatchers – Parent and juvenile
Also Spotted, Dusky, Black & Paradise Flycatchers; Olive, Collared & Amethyst Sunbirds; Olive Thrush, Southern Boubou.
Red-backed Mannikins
Spotted Flycatcher
Olive Thrush
African Paradise-Flycatcher
We walked the waterfall trail but gave up after awhile as we were spotting few birds and we were anxious to go to the dams and grassland area. On the way back we had a brief glimpse of the Crowned Eagle flying overhead.
Crowned Eagle
On leaving the more forested areas and walking down the hill towards the house we were met by a belligerent Peacock (called Charles). Do not cross the lawn in front of the house – the Peacock rules supreme and you will be chased off!!
Common Peacock
Common Peacock
Common Peacock – look at me.
Common Peacock in display
The horses wanted to befriend us which had Tina running for cover. Anyway we made it down to the road and set off for the dams and the grassland.
There are several dams on the property. Just before the entrance there is a dam on each side of the road. Here we observed lots of Grey Herons (including juveniles) plus one Black-headed Heron.
Grey Heron – juvenile – Decklan
Grey Heron – juvenile
Grey Heron – juvenile
Black-headed Heron
There were Yellow Weavers plus at least one pair of Golden Weavers nesting at the first dam. Bronze & Red-backed Mannikins – plus a very odd looking Bronzie which had white feathers on the nape of its neck.
Bronze Mannikin – Decklan
Bronze Mannikin
Bronze Mannikin
Golden Weaver
As we walked up the hill into the grasslands the Blesbok & Impala gave us a wide berth – some could only have been born the day or two before. The birding was good – Croaking Cisticolas were calling and displaying and then we had the ‘Bird of the Day’ Broad-tailed Warbler – which was a lifer for one or two of us.
Croaking Cisticola
Broad-tailed Warbler
Broad-tailed Warbler
Broad-tailed Warbler
Lesser Striped & Barn Swallows, Palm, White-rumped and Little Swifts plus a few Black Saw-wings. Good views of a Rufous-naped Lark, Fan-tailed Widows, Burchell’s Coucal by the dam, Brown-hooded Kingfishers and lovely views of Yellow-throated Longclaws. And a contentious Cuckoo on the horizon. For some a Red-chested, others a Klaas’s but wethinks otherwise – see what you think from the picture below.
Burchell’s coucal – Decklan
Rufous-naped Lark
Which Cuckoo – Female Diderick Cuckoo, wethinks
On the way up and down the grassland several photos were taken of the local game to be found on the estate as well as some flora and other critters.
Blesbok on the move – Decklan
Blesbok, Impala and young – Decklan
Blesbok
Littonia modesta -Decklan
Bright Yellow – what?
Caterpiller
Even a Ball Python was seen:
Ball Python
There were lots of YBK’s and lots, lots more!! But it was time for tea & what a tea Caryl had prepared for us on the patio of her house with Christmas mince pies and a cake with cherries (very nice too). We left a copy of next year’s BLPN calendar with her to enjoy.
A new bird hide is in the process of being built by the first dam and the suggestion was made that later on in the year we have an afternoon walk/birding & have a sundowner braai at the hide – watch the activities page!!
Caryl & her son Jan are excellent guardians of a most wonderful place and their hospitality and generosity in allowing us to visit Tanglewood is very much appreciated.
Photos are by courtesy of Decklan and Paul – thanks guys. We collected R335 which will be donated to BLPN thanks to us all!
After Balule we drove do our next destination – Skukuza. As we travelled south the countryside became greener and greener – from some much needed rains.
There was some water flowing on the south side of the Sabie River as we crossed the bridge. We stop, looking up and downstream to see what birds are about. As we are doing this one of us jokingly said keep an eye out for Finfoot, and with that Sally looks downstream and says “There it is”. It was quite a way down but walking in and out of the water at the upper end of some rapids.
Bridge over Sabie River
African Finfoot
African Finfoot
African Finfoot
African Finfoot
African Finfoot
Surprisingly the campsite was relatively empty, so we chose a level spot close to one of the kitchen areas with a reasonable amount of shelter. There were only one or two level spots on the fence-line but they were taken.
Skukuza Campite
During our time there we took an early morning drive along the road to Lower Sabie and were surprised that there was virtually no traffic. Breakfast on a cold gloomy morning at Mlondozi Dam – looking out for the Collared Flycatcher which had recently been reported there. No luck.
On the way back we took the S30 – the Salitje Road and at its end followed close to the Sabie River on the north side. At one of the lookout points over the river bed we were very surprised to see a pair of Mountain Wagtails. Unfortunately no photos of them. But I include some of the other birds seen.
African Black Ducks at Sunset Dam, Lower Sabie
Common Ringed Plover, Sunset Dam, Lower Sabie
Comb Ducks at Mlondozi Dam
Comb Duck
African Barred Owlet
African Cuckoo
African Cuckoo
African Fish-Eagle – juvenile
African Fish-Eagle – juvenile
African Fish-Eagles – juveniles at nest
African Harrier-Hawk
Black-bellied Bustard
Grey-headed Bushshrike
Grysbok
Hamerkop nest
Jacobin Cuckoo
Levaillant’s Cuckoo
Red-backed Shrike
Sabie River view
Sabie River view
Saddle-billed Storks – juveniles
Tawny Eagle -striped
Wire-tailed Swallow
Crocodile
On the way back along the H4-1 we stopped at several loop roads. On one we saw an Eagle in the middle of the road as we pulled onto it. It took no notice of us and kept scurrying back and forth on top of some low-lying dead thorn bushes right beside us.
Wahlberg’s Eagle – pale phase
Wahlberg’s Eagle – pale phase
Wahlberg’s Eagle – pale phase
Wahlberg’s Eagle – pale phase
Another bird we chased was the Madagascar/Lesser Cuckoo reported as seen right in front of the Golf Course club house. After several visits we gave up on that one too. However there was good birding in the area – on the board-walk beside the nursery and at the Lake Panic bird hide.
Some birds seen at the hide include:
Water Thick-knee with 2 chicks
Village Weaver
Squacco Heron
Malachite Kingfisher
Malachite Kingfisher
Malachite Kingfisher – in a dive
Malachite Kingfisher – returning from a dive
Malachite Kingfisher – returning from a dive
Green-backed Heron
Green-backed Heron
Goliath Heron – ducking
African Jacana
African Paradise-Flycatcher
Black Crake
Black Crake
Cattle Egret
The highlight of our time in Skukuza came at Lake Panic. There was only another couple and ourselves in the hide at the time. We heard what sounded like a dog barking and I immediately said “Leopard”. The other chap there said it was more like a bushbuck. However what we did notice was that one of the two African Fish-Eagles -some 100 metres away – had flown a few trees further along and was making the call!
Then from below the Fish-Eagle out stepped a Leopard. Peering cautiously around, it stepped out to the water’s edge. Every now and then looking our way – even when it was drinking. marvellous sight.
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
Leopard – Lake Panic
In total we had observed 148 different bird species in the area.
And eventually it was time to leave and head for Malelane – our last camp in the Kruger – see Part 9 to follow.
From Shingwedzi we headed south for Balule – a small rustic campsite without power – paraffin lamps for lights at night, kitchen area with a gas freezer. Gas for hot water. The camp has reasonable shade.
To check in we had to go to Olifants (we believe you can also check in at Satara). From Olifants to the camp site is normally only about 11 kms. However the causeway crossing the Olifants river is being refurbished after the floods earlier in the year (expected to be complete next April).
Olifants River
New Bridge
This meant going the long way round – 30 kms. It also meant no choice of direction when leaving the camp.
Quiet pond along the dirt road to the camp with different birds and animals each time we passed.
The campsites are along the camp fenceline with a well treed and grassy area in the centre – where the kitchen is located. Hyenas patrol the fenceline every night – forever hopeful. Often lying just a few metres from you staring at you with pleading eyes.
Hyena and suckling cub
Despite the nuisance of the bridge being closed the alternate route to the camp gave us some pleasant surprises.
Lioness
Lionesses
Lioness
A trench for cables extended the first 4 kms- along the S91- from the main road towards the camp. On several occasions we came across elephants trying to get across without success – fortunately for us they were on the other side of it.
Birds as well as animals. A pair of Malachite kingfishers misidentified by a tour guide as African Pygmy Kingfishers.
Malachite Kingfishers
Malachite Kingfishers
Malachite Kingfishers
Malachite Kingfishers
African Fish and Martial Eagles with rather full crops:
African Fish-Eagle with full crop
Martial Eagle with rather a full crop
A back view of a Martial Eagle
Martial Eagle – juvenile
The main bridge across the Olifants River was surprisingly quiet birdwise on each occasion that we crossed it. We did have an unusual sighting of a pair of Saddle-billed Storks lying down in the riverbed below. Surprisingly Saddle-billed Storks were seen on numerous occasions – despite their depleting status.
Saddle-billed Storks
Saddle-billed Storks
We took a drive north of Olifants along the S44 one misty damp morning – following the Letaba river. It is a very scenic drive with good views over the river.
North of Olifants camp along the S44
Further along just after it joined the S93 we had our fourth sighting of Greater Painted Snipes. This time there were three and one was a female.
Greater Painted-Snipes – nr. Olifants
Greater Painted-Snipes – nr. Olifants
Greater Painted Snipe area – nr. Olifants with mystical tree.
Did you notice the tree in the last photo. It appears to be upside down and coming towards you.
Mystical Tree – where is it going.
Here are some of the other birds we saw in the area.
African Fish-Eagle
African Fish-Eagles
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
African Harrier-Hawk – juvenile
Burchell’s Coucal
Diderick’s Cuckoo
European Bee-eater
Grey Go-away-bird having a dust bath
Grey-headed Bushshrike
Grey-headed Bushshrike
Lapsmith juvenile
Lilac-breasted Roller
Marico Sunbird
Marico Sunbird
Red-crested Korhaan
Saddle-billed Stork
Sabota Lark
Spectacled Weaver
Tawny Eagle – striped
Terrestrial Brownbul
White-browed Robin-Chat
White-browed Robin-Chat
White-browed Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
Yellow-breasted Apalis in the rafters
Yellow-breasted Apalis in the rafters
Yellow-breasted Apalis in the rafters
Altogether we observed 120 different bird species in the 2 full days we were there.
Then it was down to Skukuza. See Part 8 to follow.
Shingwedzi was our next place to visit in the Kruger. Effectively we only had one full day there. On arrival, the day began to cook and the next day it was boiling – both days got up to 45 degrees C. Much of both afternoons were spent in the rather grand swimming pool under the shade of a densely leafed tree or in the water. Fortunately we had taken our loungers with us so we were quite comfortable in the shade.
The birds loved the tree as well. And many came down to the area where water gathered as it was being recirculated into the pool. Green-winged Pitylias, Firefinches, Waxbills and Weavers all came to bathe and it was possible to get close if you were in the water.
With the air-conditioning full blast it was more pleasant to be in the car than the camp. Both afternoons we drove down along the river to visit the hide. There was some water in the river and at one point we observed the carcass of a buffalo near the water’s edge – being guarded by a number of crocodiles whilst vultures hung around waiting for their chance.
Crocodiles with Buffalo carcass
White-headed Vulture
The first morning we were there was spent driving around the Red Rocks Loop – the R52.
View over the river on the Red Rocks loop.
View over Red Rocks
View over Red Rocks
View over Red Rocks
View over Red Rocks
View over Red Rocks
Along the way we observed an elephant resting lying down against the bank of a river.
Elephant resting on the side of the bank
The bird we most enjoyed seeing was the Grey-rumped Swallow
Grey-rumped Swallow
Grey-rumped Swallow
In all we observed 119 different species in the short time we were there. Here are some other photos of what we saw.
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Common Sandpiper
Common Sandpiper
Bateleur – juvenile
Cut-throat Finches
Double-banded Sandgrouse
Double-banded Sandgrouse
Bennett’s Woodpecker
Squacco Heron
Steenbok
Martial Eagle
Martial Eagle
Spotted Flycatcher
Bateleur – flashing
Bateleur juvenile
And then we were off to the rustic camp Balule near Olifants – continued in Part 7.
Sunday 30 November. Ellingham Estate with Barry Pullock.
Only five people pitched for the outing. The weather understandably had something to do with it. We had about an hour then down came the rain, that was it, best sighting in that time was a Brown Snake-Eagle.
Message from Rex – one of the participants: The LBJ hopping down the road was correctly identified as African Pipit. Please send Tina the photograph of the horse that chased her.
After leaving Tsendze we headed north to Punda Maria via Shingwedzi. Here we had our first bit of excitement – though not the sort which I find enjoyable. We had just turned onto the road to Shingwedzi when we spotted a small herd of elephants with young well ahead of us. I stop immediately. You definitely don’t want to have to reverse quickly towing a trailer.
They keep crossing the road but one or two linger – the naughty young ones of course. After a while several cars passed us and we watched as they crawled passed the elephants. Getting a bit more courage I too amble forward slowly. As I start to go passed one of the youngsters decided that he would have a bit of fun at our expense and blew his little trumpet and came for us. My foot was ahead of him and well to the floor on the accelerator! We got through but not without an adrenalin rush.
On the way from Shingwedzi we bumped into an immature Bataleur on the road devouring his meal oblivious to us. Sad day for the Burchell’s Coucal.
Bataleur – juvenile. And the remains of a Burchell’s Coucal.
Then it was on to Punda Maria. Despite our five nights at Punda we were disappointed with the variety of species seen in the area – specifically at Pafuri. Klopperfontein Drift and the road to Pafuri was also quiet. However we enjoyed the Mahonie loop around the camp especially on the Sunset drive when we had one of those special moments.
We spent two mornings in the Pafuri area but found few of their specials. All of the following eluded us – not that we expected to see them all: both Spinetails; Dickinson’s Kestrel; Arnot’s Chat; Pel’s Fishing Owl; Senegal Lapwing; Grey-backed Cameroptera; Thick-billed Cuckoo; Racket-tailed Roller; Lemon-breasted Canary; Green-backed Eromomela. However we did hear a Tropical Boubou and a number of White-crowned Lapwings.
White-crowned Lapwing showing its spurs
Definitely our worst sighting there occurred on our first visit at the turn-off towards the picnic site. Three Common Mynahs.
We did have a couple of better moments when we observed what appeared to be an acrobatic duel between two raptors. They eventually perched in the same tree. One was an adult African Hawk-Eagle – very black and white. The other was rufous. Checking our books we realised it was a juvenile of the same species.
African Hawk-Eagle – parent
African Hawk-Eagle – juvenile
African Hawk-Eagle – juvenile
The other bit of interest at Pafuri was in the campsite. We noticed two Red-chested Cuckoos flying around together. One was obviously a juvenile as its bib was only just starting to show. So what was this all about? Especially as juveniles are not looked after my their natural parents but by a host bird. One explanation was that the juvenile was a female and they were courting. Could there be another?
Red-chested Cuckoo – juvenile
Red-chested Cuckoos – male and female (juvenile) presumeably in courtship
Our first sighting of a Red-backed Shrike occurred here. One of only 3 we saw in the park. The other two in Balule and Skukuza.
Red-backed Shrike
Some of the other sightings we had in the Pafuri area included:
African Fish-Eagle – juvenile
African Fish-Eagle
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Common Greenshank
Cut-throat Finch
Cut-throat Finch
Dusky Indigobird
One rather fat Crocodile
Giant Kingfisher – male or female or both
Green-winged Pytilia
Green-winged Pytilia in transformation
Green-winged Pytilia – with head on its pillow
Jameson’s Firefinch
Meve’s Starling
Mosque Swallow
Red-headed Weaver – juvenile
Secretarybird
Secretarybird
Secretarybird
Southern Ground-Hornbill
Spectacled Weaver – juvenile
Squacco Heron
Tawny Eagle
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting
We trawled the road to Pafuri for Arnot’s Chat and Dickenson’s Kestrel without luck.
In total we saw 115 different species in the Pafuri area.
Most of our time birding in the Punda Maria area occurred on the Mahonie Loop.
On our first morning as we went clockwise around the Mahonie Loop, we had another of those unexpected unwanted moments. Being charged by an adult elephant in musth.
It appeared to be minding its own business munching away some 100 metres from the road. We crawled along and before we could pass he suddenly turned and raced towards us – with intent it seemed. Flat out we raced away. After less than a kilometre our road was totally blocked by a fallen tree. The signs of the elephant were there – his doing. There was no way I was going back. After sorting out the rather thorny vegetation and shifting some large rocks we were eventually able to get round the obstruction.
Further along we had a number of pleasant raptor sightings including African Hawk-Eagles camouflaged in the trees above us as well as a tagged Cape Vulture.
African Hawk-Eagle
African Hawk-Eagle
African Hawk-Eagle
Cape Vulture -tagged
Hairstyles caught our attention on these two birds: An African Paradise-Flycatcher and a Brown Snake-Eagle:
Brown Snake-Eagle
African Paradise-Flycatcher
Along with a number of other birds seen on the different days on the loop and in the camp:
African Green-Pigeon
African Goshawk
Brown Snake-Eagle
Black-headed Oriole
Broad-billed Roller
Brown-headed Parrot
Brown-headed Parrots
Brown-headed Parrots in flight
Brown-headed Parrot
Klaas’s Cuckoo – female
Lesser Honeyguide
Levaillant’s Cuckoo
Marabou Stork
Mosque Swallows
Pearl-spotted Owlet
Common Buzzard
Crested Guineafowl
Dwarf Chameleon
Dwarf Mongooses
Greater Blue-eared Starling
Grysbok
Hooded Vulture
House Sparrow
Violet-backed Starling
Wahlberg’s Eagle – Pale Morph
Wahlberg’s Eagle – Pale Morph
Scarlet-chested Sunbird
Southern Boubou
Striped Kingfisher
Yellow-bellied Greenbul
In the camp, near the office, we had good views of four different Robins – Bearded Scrub-Robin, White-browed Scrub-Robin, White-browed Robin-Chat and White-throated Robin-Chat
Bearded Scrub-Robin
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-browed Robin-Chat
White-browed Scrub-Robin
The highlight of our whole trip was the spectacle we had on the Sunset drive around the Mahonie Loop. This is something which all birders should see at least once in their lifetime. We were taken to a donga, alighted from the vehicle and told to sit quietly in the donga. Then as dusk arrived close to 18h30 four birds appeared – a female and three calling males. They flew all around us sometimes as close as three metres above our heads. On occasion they settled on the ground. What a fantastic way to see Pennant-winged Nightjars with their long streamers. I apologise to the photographic purists for the following photos but I did not have a flash. However these photos, to me, capture the mystical magic of the Pennant-winged Nightjar.
Pennant-winged Nightjar
Pennant-winged Nightjar
Pennant-winged Nightjar
Pennant-winged Nightjar
Pennant-winged Nightjar
Total sightings in and around Punda Maria was 136 different species.
And then it was the start of our journey south – first to Shingwedzi. See Part 6.
Tsendze is the satellite camp to Mopani. It is situated right next to the Mooiplaas picnic area. It is a rustic camp for campers only and has no power available. There is however, a kitchen and washup area, solar energy for lights and gas heating for hot water. As a new addition there are gas freezers available for those who need them. The camp is well treed so there is ample shade. This was our favourite camp in the Kruger and it has the friendliest and most helpful staff. The birding in the area was also pretty good.
Tsendze Entrance
Well treed Campsites
Tsendze Exit
To start with, Roger – the camp attendant – noticed that we were birders. “Come with me”, he said. Right next to our campsite he showed us one of the resident African Scops Owl. Then he took us to see the resident breeding pair of African Barred Owlets. What a start to our stay.
African Scops-Owl
African Scops-Owl
African Barred Owlet
African Barred Owlet
Late one afternoon on our way back to the camp we took one of the River Loop roads. As we approached the river, Sally yelled “Stop”. Brakes on and stop. “What is it?” “Look behind the tree on the right”. And there it was, an animal with a head like a bull mastiff and the size of a large hyena – black and white with a long bushy tail. Neither of us had seen one before so stared at it uncomprehendingly for a long time. Eventually we got out the wildlife book and discovered it was a Civet. Unfortunately this Civet had an injured right back leg and was limping badly. It took no notice of us and continued foraging within 10 metres of us. We were so engrossed with watching this lifer for both of us that we paid little attention to anything else around us. For some unknown reason Sally happened to look round and yelled “Elephant”. It was less than 5 metres from us and approaching straight at us with determination. Somehow the car managed to reverse at an unnatural speed without hitting anything. The elephant calmly strode up to where we had been parked, reached up into the tree and snapped off a small branch. Scary or what!
African Civet
African Civet
African Civet
There is a waterhole south of the camp – Klein Nshawu. A lion had feasted on a buffalo right next to the waterhole and left its carcass there. So we went to take a look. Hyena and jackal were present as well as quite a few Vultures including White-backed and Cape.
White-backed and Cape Vultures
Vultures and Jackals
On one of our drives we stopped at the Tihongonyeni waterhole on the S143 Tropic of Capricorn Loop. The place was abuzz with Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks, Kittlitz’s Plovers, Magpie Shrikes unusually congregating, around six or more in one small shrub. Elephant were drinking. We hung around for a while fortunately. Suddenly the birds all took to the air. A small raptor with a ringtail appeared and landed in a tree at least 100 metres away. Out came the scope and we realised it was a Harrier – not a mature male. On closer inspection we understood that it was not a female but a juvenile – luckily, as we would never have been able to conclusively identify it. The bold black markings round the eye indicated that it was a Pallid Harrier juvenile – much as we suspected because of the flat open dry habitat.
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark
Kittlitz’s Plover
Pallid Harrier – juvenile
Pallid Harrier – juvenile
At another waterhole – Mooiplaas on the S50 we had another what we thought was an unusual sighting of 5 friendly Collared Pratincoles foraging in the desolate landscape.
Collared Pratincole
Collared Pratincole
Collared Pratincole
Collared Pratincole
We encountered numerous elephants in the area but one stood out. It had only one very long tusk.
Elephant – one tusker
Yellow-billed Oxpeckers appeared on many of the Buffalo that we saw. Not so long ago you had to go right up to the Pafuri area to try and see one.
Yellow-billed Oxpecker
Yellow-billed Oxpecker
Yellow-billed Oxpecker
One day we took a drive on the Tsendze loop to the south of the camp. A pleasant drive following the river. At one of the many small loops to the river we noticed a pair of unusual birds skulking near the reeds but coming out into the open now and then. Out with the scope to confirm what we thought. Our second sighting of 2 Greater Painted Snipes.
Greater Painted-Snipes – Tsendze Loop
Greater Painted-Snipes – Tsendze Loop
Greater Painted-Snipes – Tsendze Loop
The next day we took a walk around the Mopani camp trail in front of their restaurant – a short but pleasant trail along the banks of Mopani’s Pioneer Dam. At the end of the inlet of water we came across another 2 Greater Painted Snipes – our third sighting of them. So far all males.
Greater Painted-Snipes – Mopani
Greater Painted-Snipes – Mopani
Next to the camp is Mooiplaas Picnic site. It has a lovely thatched picnic spot overlooking the river. It was here that we heard then found an African Cuckoo and a Black Cuckooshrike.
African Cuckoo
African Cuckoo
African Cuckoo
African Cuckoo
Black Cuckooshrike – male
Black Cuckooshrike – male
Both the Pioneer Hide and the Shipandani Hides are worth a visit and the river crossing before the latter always seemed to yield an interesting variety of birds in the reeds, on the water’s edge and on the causeway itself. There is also the wetland area along the S50.
And the main road, the H14 to Phalaborwa had a number of interesting minor loop roads along the river’s edge – a pretty drive.
Scenery on one of the loop roads along the H14
Scenery on one of the loop roads along the H14
Scenery on one of the loop roads along the H14
In all this is one of our favourite areas in the park as it has a wide variety of habitats.
Here are pictures of some of the other species we saw in and around the area.
African Hawk-Eagle
African Hawk-Eagle
African Hawk-Eagle
African Hoopoe
Brubru
Brubru
Cape Sparrow
Cattle Egret
Black-headed Oriole
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting
Dark Chanting-Goshawk
Dark Chanting-Goshawk
Dark Chanting-Goshawk
Double-banded Sandgrouse
Common Greenshank
Common Ostrich
European Bee-eater
European Bee-eater
For ID
For ID
Golden-breasted Bunting
Hippo
Grey Heron
Groundscraper Thrush
Groundscraper Thrush
Lappet-faced Vultures – loved the colour of the head gear
Long-tailed Paradise-Whydahs in transition
Long-tailed Paradise-Whydahs in transition
Long-tailed Paradise-Whydahs in transition
Martial Eagle
Martial Eagle
Mystery Raptor
Tawny Eagle – is it one
Tawny Eagle – is it one
Tawny Eagle – is it one
Tsessebe
Perplexes
Perplexes
Red-crested Korhaan
Secretarybird
Yellow-billed Stork
In total we observed 143 different bird species in and around Tsendze.
Our next camp for five nights was Punda Maria from which we spent a couple of mornings in Pafuri. See Part 5.
Leaving Crocodile Bridge we drove to Lower Sabie, crossed the Sabie River and headed for Satara via Tshokwane arriving early afternoon.
Stopping for tea at Tshokwane we noticed this unusually dark African Mourning Dove.
African Mourning Dove
After setting up camp we had a message on Trevor Hardaker’s Rare Birds report that a Green Sandpiper had been seen at the Sweni bridge just south of the camp. We went to have a look and it did not take us long to find it. This would have been a lifer for me had I not seen one a month earlier at Darvil sewerage works in Pietermaritzberg.
Green Sandpiper
Green Sandpiper
The following day we drove along the S100 to the Sweni Bird Hide near the N’wanetsi picnic site. Along the way we came across what we thought was a pair of Red-necked Spurfowls – however on advise from Trevor Hardaker they are in fact hybrids – Red-necked and Swainson’s. As there were two together, we hope that they are both of the same sex!
Red-necked Spurfowl -hybrid
Red-necked Spurfowls -hybrids
Red-necked Spurfowl -hybrid
The Sweni Hide was one of the highlights of our trip. We were entertained there for hours not only by the crocodiles and hippos camouflaged by the weed but also by the variety of birds which visited the hide – including a pair of what we think might be Dwarf Bitterns (possible Green-backed Heron juvenile but for the heavy black streaking on the front – unfortunately not shown well in the photos) and several Black-crowned Night Herons.
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Camouflaged Crocodile
Hippo Heaven
Juvenile Dwarf Bittern or Green-backed Heron
Juvenile Dwarf Bittern or Green-backed Heron
Juvenile Dwarf Bittern or Green-backed Heron
Hippos in repose
The following morning we set off really early to get to the Sweni Hide as we had enjoyed it so much the day before. On the way as we crossed a bridge and looked down we saw 2 elephants digging for water. There was a pool nearby but it was obviously not to their taste. What was interesting was that the hole they dug with their trunks was perfectly round and several feet deep. The elephants knew the water was there and that the sand would filter the water for them.
Elephants searching for water
As we reached the hide we first went to the river crossing and looked back up to the hide. What a good decision. In the closest part of the river Sally noticed an unusual bird – the first of four different sightings of this bird.
Greater Painted-Snipe – Sweni Hide
Greater Painted-Snipe – Sweni Hide
Greater Painted-Snipe – Sweni Hide
Some of the other birds and animals we managed to photograph in the area include:
Saddle-billed Stork
Saddle-billed Stork in flight
Saddle-billed Stork in flight
Saddle-billed Stork
Red-winged Starling
Yellow-billed Stork
White-headed Vulture
White-headed Vulture in flight
White-fronted Plover
White-fronted Plover
Water Thick-knees
Violet-backed Starling
Tawny Eagle at nest
Steenbok
Steenbok
Spectacled Weaver’s nest
Red-crested Korhaan
Hyena pup
Green-backed Heron
Green-backed Heron
Grey Penduline-Tit
Goliath Heron
Goliath Heron
Giant Kingfisher
Giant Kingfisher
European Bee-eater
Crested Barbet
Crested Barbet
Common Sandpiper
Brown Snake-Eagle
Brown Snake-Eagle
Blue-headed Lizzard
Black-shouldered Kite
Bushbuck
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Brown-headed Parrot
Bateleur
Bataleur in flight
Baby Crocodile
Arrow-marked Babbler
Black-chested Snake-Eagle
Black-backed Jackal – juvenile
Black Crake
African Fish-Eagle
Red-crested Korhaan
Red-breasted Swallow
Pied Kingfisher
Mosque Swallow
Marico Sunbird
Malachite Kingfisher
Long-necked Terrapin or Goliath Heron
Little Stints
Lesser Masked Weaver – male
Lesser Masked Weaver – female
Altogether we found 140 different bird species in and around Satara.
Next we moved on to Tsendze – the satellite camp to Mopani. It is situated next to the Mooiplaas picnic area. See Part 4 of this series.
Three days were spent in the area around Crocodile Bridge. The weather was very overcast with rain in the evenings. The vegetation was dry so visibility into the park was good. Now all we had to do was find the birds.
The first day was spent on the S28 from Croc Bridge to Lower Sabie via the Ntandanyahti Hide. The hide was productive but few birds were seen on the S28. On exit from the hide a rather large elephant stood guard over our car. Appropriate action was taken and we returned to the hide until it was safe to leave. Not long as it happened.
African Elephant
African Elephant
A visit to Sunset Dam and then to Mlondozi Dam (looking for the reported Collared flycatcher – no luck) were also productive.
The second day we took the S25 and S26 to Mpondo Dam – again very quiet along the way. However on a detour off the S25 to Hippo Pool we were fortunate to see 3 Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls together. They flew over the road and stopped in nearby trees.
Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl
Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl
Mpondo Dam was disappointing. Onward we went back along the S26 to the S114 turned south to the then S119 and S25 returning to the camp. Along the S114 Sally called for me to stop. She had heard a Coqui Francolin – her bogie bird. It called several times but we never had a sighting.
Despite what appeared to be a paucity of birds we did manage to record 144 different species during our time there.
White-browed Robin-Chat
White-browed Robin-Chat
White-crowned Shrike
Bedraggled Brown-crowned Tchagra.
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
White-throated Robin-Chat
Wire-tailed Swallow
Wood Sandpiper
Yellow-billed Stork – juvenile
Yellow-throated Longclaw
Acacia Pied Barbet
African Green-Pigeon
African Jacana
African Pied Wagtail
Barn Swallows
Barn Swallows
Black Crake – juvenile
Black-backed Puffback
Blue Waxbill with red beak
Booted Eagle
Booted Eagle
Booted Eagle
Booted Eagle
Chinspot Batis
Chinspot Batis
Common Buzzard
Common Sandpiper
Common Scimitarbill
Crested Barbet
Curlew Sandpiper
Diderick Cuckoo
Double-banded Sandgrouse and chick
Double-banded Sandgrouse
Green-backed Cameroptera
Green-backed Heron
Grey Go-away-bird. Head
Grey Go-away-bird.
Grey-headed Bushshrike
Grey-headed Bushshrike
Klipspringer
Kurrichane Thrush
Lappet-faced Vulture
Lappet-faced Vultures
Lappet-faced and White-backed Vultures
Laughing Dove – very dark looking
Laughing Dove
Lions
Malachite Kingfisher
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Mocking Cliff-Chat
Nest thought to be a Penduline-Tit nest.
Orange-breasted Bushshrike
Orange-breasted Bushshrike
Pearl-spotted Owlet
Pearl-spotted Owlet
Pearl-spotted Owlet
Purple Roller
Purple-banded Sunbird
Purple-banded Sunbird
Purple-banded Sunbird
Purple-banded Sunbird
Red-billed Hornbill
Red-faced Cisticola
Reedbuck
Sabota Lark
Slender Mongoose with his snail
Southern Ground-Hornbill
Swainson’s Spurfowl
Violet-backed Starling
Violet-backed Starling
Wattled Starling
Which Roller is this?
White Rhino – resting his head on rock.
Satara was our next venue for 4 nights. See Part 3