Tag: Zululand and the Kruger

Zululand and the Kruger

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A Summary

Paul and Sally Bartho

The purpose of this final chapter in our saga through Zululand and the Kruger is:

  • to show a detailed Bird List of birds we saw in each place we visited – as an Excel spreadsheet. Highlighting the birds we considered special.
  • to display the possibly contentious and mystery birds we encountered and photographed – feedback always welcome.
  • to identify our worst sighting on the trip.
  • to comment on a few observations we made.
  • to post a summary of photos of birds and animals we saw on our trip.

Click here to see our bird list for each area we visited.

Next are some photos of birds which require ID. Have a go if you are interested and make your comments in the assigned place beneath each photo.

Then we have birds which are contentious. Again have a go if you are interested and make your comments in the assigned place beneath each photo.

Definitely the worst sighting of our trip occurred as we reached the turn-off from the main road to Pafuri Picnic site. Right on the corner we saw three Common Mynahs.

Highlights and Observations:

  • We never saw nor heard a Woodlands Kingfisher between 22 October and 19 November – the whole time we were in the Kruger. Our first sighting was in Ndumo.
Woodland Kingfisher - all mouth as it tries to scare off a Broad-billed Roller
Woodland Kingfisher – all mouth as it tries to scare off a Broad-billed Roller
  • We did not see an European Roller until Eastern Shores, Isimangoliso on 24 November and it was the only one we saw.
  • Red-backed Shrike had only just started appearing in the Kruger when we reached Pafuri on 5 November. Only a few more were seen on our way south.
Red-backed Shrike
Red-backed Shrike
  • Yellow-billed Oxpeckers were seen as far south as Balule – mainly on Buffalo. There was a time not long ago when you needed to be in the Punda Maria region to be lucky to see one.
  • Eurasian Golden Orioles were seen in pairs on four occasions -Tsendze; Shingwedzi; Skukuza and Ndumo.
  • By far the best camp we stayed at was Tsendze. The staff are exceptional, the habitat varied and interesting, the campsite full of Owls in the many tall trees. Balule and Malelane are two other campsites that we will visit again.
  • On the S114 heading N/S to Skukuza a Cocqui Francolin was heard – try as we may we were unable to see it – Sally’s current bogie bird. However this led us to an excellent sighting of a Stierling’s Wren-Warbler nearby.
  • Being at the right place at the right time – that is how we were lucky enough to see the African Finfoot as we crossed the Sabie Bridge on the way to Skukuza.
  • Our Owl sightings started in Mkuze with a great view of a juvenivle Pel’s Fishing-Owl followed by Verreaux’s at Crocodile Bridge; Spotted Eagle Owl in Ndumo; Scops, Barred and Pearl-spotted in a number of places.
  • In Mkuze there was a Crowned Plover on its nest right beside the road – it had 2 eggs. Two days later there was nothing to be seen.
  • An amazing hairstyle of an African Paradise-Flycatcher and an Afro-styled Brown Snake-Eagle in Punda Maria.
  • Exceptionally dark colourations of Laughing and African Mourning Doves in Tshokwane Picnic site and in the Satara camp.
  • On the S100, N’wanetsi River Road, we came across what at first we believed to be a pair of Red-necked Spurfowls – we were excited. However we later found out that they were hybrids. This poses further questions: Why a pair of hybrids together? Brothers, sisters, brother and sister or a mating pair? Mating pair – more questions!
  • We had four different sightings of Greater Painted-Snipes. A sole male at the Sweni hide, Satara; a pair of males on the Tsendze loop; another pair of males on the walk below the Mopani restaurant; and two males and a female together on the S93 just north of Olifants.
  • The Green Sandpiper at the Sweni bridge on the main road south of Satara was observed by us on a number of occasions.
  • Two Red-chested Cuckoos were seen together in the Pafuri Picnic site – a male paying attention to a juvenile. Shouldn’t be offspring so it is assumed that the juvenile was a female coming of age and being swooned by an adult male.
  • Also near the Pafuri Picnic site we observed 2 squabbling Eagles – on settling in the same tree we noted that they were both African Hawk-Eagles – an adult and a rufous juvenile.
  • We had the challenge of identifying a Harrier seen in the distance at the Thongonyeni waterhole on the Tropic of Capricorn loop just north of Mopani. Luckily not a female but a juvenile – a Pallid Harrier.
  • In St. Lucia we found a pair of Bar-tailed Godwits along the mud flats at the mouth of the Lake St. Lucia estuary. There were also 13 African Black Oystercatchers on the beach. Many other waders and Terns were also seen.
  • In Ndumo there was a female Little Bittern dashing between the reeds right in front of the Nyamithi Hide. At the Vulture restaurant on separate occasions we noticed an adult and then a juvenile Palm-nut Vulture.
  • Interesting animal sightings include:
    • a one tusker Elephant with a very long tusk
    • a Civet in broad daylight unconcernedly foraging right next to us. It had a sore back right leg and was limping. This was the only lifer that either of us had on our trip. As we watched we did not notice an elephant approaching directly towards us from the other side until it was just metres away. Mega hasty retreat was called for – adrenalin does wonders to focus you.
    • a male Leopard coming for a drink at Lake Panic Hide, Skukuza.
    • Dwarf Mongooses around our campsite at Malelane.
    • Hippos resting in peace at Sweni Hide
    • Numerous very large herds of Buffalo. One herd was over a kilometre long and it appeared to be over 20 animals across most of the way – must have been thousands of animals.
    • A rather interesting Waterbuck – rather suave and foppish!

Some of the other animals photographed:

  • There is one photo which does not appear real – it looks as if a tree has uprooted itself and is coming straight for us.
  • However the “piece-de-la-resistance” is definitely the two magical mystical photos of the Pennant-winged Nightjars we saw while at Punda Maria.

And finally an album of some of the other bird photos follows:

 

Again I hope you have enjoyed the read and the photos.

Paul & Sally.

 

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 10

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Ndumo 19 to 23 November

Paul and Sally Bartho

We left Malelane and the Kruger very early and arrived at the Mananga gate to Swaziland half an hour early at 06h30.

The drive through Swaziland was uneventful except for the potholes on the 40 kms stretch between Siteki and Big Bend.

We arrived at Ndumo midday with the intention to camp for one night before we joined the Game Rangers weekend – staying in the huts. However we negotiated a good price to upgrade from camping to the huts for the night and took full advantage of it.

Once settled in we took a drive to the Nyamithi hide passing the Vulture Restaurant on the way. At the Restaurant we spotted an adult Palm-nut Vulture feasting on one of five giraffe. Also noted were a pair of Spotted Thick-knees behind one of the carcasses.

At Nyamithi hide it was very quiet as the water level was quite high. However Sally noticed a Little Bittern in the reeds immediately in front of the hide.

The next morning at 06h00 Sally and I went with Bongani on a drive to the back side of Nyamithi Pan and Banzi Pan. This was the first time that some of the roads were passable after recent rains – in particular around Banzi and Bongani spent a bit of time cutting and removing fallen trees and bush across the road. That said, it was a very productive drive and we did not get back till after 11h00. Here are pictures of a smattering of the birds we saw.

On this drive we heard and saw our first Woodland Kingfisher of our trip so far. Not one seen nor heard in the Kruger!! The one we observed here was giving as good as he got from an annoyed Broad-billed Roller.

Late that afternoon we had a short but heavy thunderstorm which effectively closed the back roads around the Banzi Pan where we had gone. We were fortunate to arrive a day early.

In the camp a juvenile Spotted Eagle-Owl was seen.

Spotted Eagle-Owl - juvenile
Spotted Eagle-Owl – juvenile

The Game Rangers long weekend involved three walks with guides and a Game drive around the back of Nyamithi Pan as well as a sundowner at Nyamithi Pan.

On the walks we were taken to Shokwe Pan, the western side of the park and a central walk near the main gate.

On Friday we left the camp and had only reached the camp entrance when Bongani spotted an unusual implement in the bush by the road – an arrow. The park manager and rangers were called to deal with potential poachers. Then 100 metres further along the road Bongani spotted a knife in the road. The manager and rangers were called again. Some start to what was meant to be a game drive.

Here are some photos of birds seen on the Game drive and on our walks.

The camp has many large trees habituated by many birds. this is where the Spotted Eagle-Owl was seen. A Purple-crested Turaco paid a visit and a pesky Scaly-throated Honeyguide called seemingly from everywhere but where I was looking. Eventually I managed to get a shot or two of each.

There was little time during the weekend to go off and do your own thing. However on the last lunch break, we managed to visit the Nyamithi hide again – hoping to see the Little Bittern. We were not disappointed. The Vulture Restaurant was also active with a number of Yellow-billed Kites and a juvenile Palm-nut Vulture.

Ndumo was the most productive of all the locations we visited with 181 different bird species observed.

After 4 nights at Ndumo it was time to leave for our final destination at Sugarloaf campsite in St. Lucia. See Part 11 to follow.

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 9

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Malelane 17 to 19 November

Paul & Sally Bartho

We left Skukuza early morning and arrived at Malelane about 10h00. As you can check in at the Malelane Gate, we took advantage of that rather than checking in at Berg-en-dal. here we heard there had been a Leopard kill at the turn-off to the camp a couple of days earlier – all gone when we got there.

The first thing we noticed was that there had been a massive fire. It turned out that the fire had burnt all round Berg-en-dal from Malelane S110 as well as the S110 dirt roads back to the bridge over the H3. Massive burnt area with little bird life.

Malelane entrance
Malelane entrance

The campsite was empty and so we chose a site near the viewing point over the Crocodile river.

Campsite birds were calling – Diderick and Klaas’s Cuckoos; White-throated and Red-capped Robin-Chats – and the Swallows were everywhere – on the ground and in the air.

Our neighbours on the fence-line were adult and juvenile Dwarf mongooses. The little one crept along our side of the fence and was not too concerned about us. It could be heard cheep cheeping and the adult responding in a lower pitch – keeping in contact no doubt or perhaps it was the other way round with the adult asking, “Where the heck are you?”

Dwarf Mongoose
Dwarf Mongoose

This was the first time we had camped at the Malelane campsite- and it won’t be the last despite the lack of shade. Having said that we are beginning to realise that shade is not really essential in winter or if a silver cover is put over the campervan. Level ground and a good birding outlook is far more important and grass is a bonus.

During the short time we were there we planned to look for the Cocqui Francolin which we heard several weeks earlier (we had its GPS co-ords); visit Berg-en-dal to look around the grounds and to go to the bridge over the Crocodile river to see what birds were below.

Early the first morning we set off to try and find the Cocqui. At the bridge over the Matijulu we see a small herd of buffalo and a male Comb Duck perched at the top of a bare tree. In the nearby tree there were his 5 wives!

Further along on the S114 we find a bare patch of grass and two pairs of African Wattled Lapwings with chicks. Then an Eurasian Hobby in the gloom of a tree some way away followed by a pair of lovebirds – canoodling European Bee-eaters.

We push on towards the jock of the Bushveld Plaque where we had heard the Cocqui before. No luck – not even a peep this time. However in a tree beside the road out pops a Stierling’s Wren Warbler giving us some excellent views.

On the way back we spot a king of the Beasts in all his majesty lying beside a fallen tree close to where we had just seen several White Rhinos and a number of elephant. Birds adorned the route as well.

Despite such a short visit we observed 126 different bird species. Here are a few more pictures of other birds we had seen.

And then we were on to Ndumo for one of the Game Rangers’ Weekends. More in Part 10.

Zululand and the Kruger Part 8

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Skukuza 14 to 18 November 2014

Paul and Sally Bartho

After Balule we drove do our next destination – Skukuza. As we travelled south the countryside became greener and greener – from some much needed rains.

There was some water flowing on the south side of the Sabie River as we crossed the bridge. We stop, looking up and downstream to see what birds are about. As we are doing this one of us jokingly said keep an eye out for Finfoot, and with that Sally looks downstream and says “There it is”. It was quite a way down but walking in and out of the water at the upper end of some rapids.

Surprisingly the campsite was relatively empty, so we chose a level spot close to one of the kitchen areas with a reasonable amount of shelter. There were only one or two level spots on the fence-line but they were taken.

Skuskuza Campite
Skukuza Campite

During our time there we took an early morning drive along the road to Lower Sabie and were surprised that there was virtually no traffic. Breakfast on a cold gloomy morning at Mlondozi Dam – looking out for the Collared Flycatcher which had recently been reported there. No luck.

On the way back we took the S30 – the Salitje Road and at its end followed close to the Sabie River on the north side. At one of the lookout points over the river bed we were very surprised to see a pair of Mountain Wagtails. Unfortunately no photos of them. But I include some of the other birds seen.

On the way back along the H4-1 we stopped at several loop roads. On one we saw an Eagle in the middle of the road as we pulled onto it. It took no notice of us and kept scurrying back and forth on top of some low-lying dead thorn bushes right beside us.

Another bird we chased was the Madagascar/Lesser Cuckoo reported as seen right in front of the Golf Course club house. After several visits we gave up on that one too. However there was good birding in the area – on the board-walk beside the nursery and at the Lake Panic bird hide.

Some birds seen at the hide include:

The highlight of our time in Skukuza came at Lake Panic. There was only another couple and ourselves in the hide at the time. We heard what sounded like a dog barking and I immediately said “Leopard”. The other chap there said it was more like a bushbuck. However what we did notice was that one of the two African Fish-Eagles -some 100 metres away – had flown a few trees further along and was making the call!

Then from below the Fish-Eagle out stepped a Leopard. Peering cautiously around, it stepped out to the water’s edge. Every now and then looking our way – even when it was drinking. marvellous sight.

In total we had observed 148 different bird species in the area.

And eventually it was time to leave and head for Malelane – our last camp in the Kruger – see Part 9 to follow.

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 7

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Balule 11 to 14 November 2014

Paul and Sally Bartho

From Shingwedzi we headed south for Balule – a small rustic campsite without power – paraffin lamps for lights at night, kitchen area with a gas freezer. Gas for hot water. The camp has reasonable shade.

To check in we had to go to Olifants (we believe you can also check in at Satara). From Olifants to the camp site is normally only about 11 kms. However the causeway crossing the Olifants river is being refurbished after the floods earlier in the year (expected to be complete next April).

This meant going the long way round – 30 kms. It also meant no choice of direction when leaving the camp.

The campsites are along the camp fenceline with a well treed and grassy area in the centre – where the kitchen is located. Hyenas patrol the fenceline every night – forever hopeful. Often lying just a few metres from you staring at you with pleading eyes.

Hyena and suckling cub
Hyena and suckling cub

Despite the nuisance of the bridge being closed the alternate route to the camp gave us some pleasant surprises.

A trench for cables extended the first 4 kms- along the S91- from the main road towards the camp. On several occasions we came across elephants trying to get across without success – fortunately for us they were on the other side of it.

Birds as well as animals. A pair of Malachite kingfishers misidentified by a tour guide as African Pygmy Kingfishers.

African Fish and Martial Eagles with rather full crops:

A back view of a Martial Eagle

Martial Eagle - juvenile
Martial Eagle – juvenile

The main bridge across the Olifants River was surprisingly quiet birdwise on each occasion that we crossed it. We did have an unusual sighting of a pair of Saddle-billed Storks lying down in the riverbed below. Surprisingly Saddle-billed Storks were seen on numerous occasions – despite their depleting status.

We took a drive north of Olifants along the S44 one misty damp morning – following the Letaba river. It is a very scenic drive with good views over the river.

North of Olifants camp along the S44
North of Olifants camp along the S44

Further along just after it joined the S93 we had our fourth sighting of Greater Painted Snipes. This time there were three and one was a female.

Did you notice the tree in the last photo. It appears to be upside down and coming towards you.

Mystical Tree - where is it going.
Mystical Tree – where is it going.

Here are some of the other birds we saw in the area.

Altogether we observed 120 different bird species in the 2 full days we were there.

Then it was down to Skukuza. See Part 8 to follow.

 

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 6

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Shingwedzi 9 to 11 November

Paul and Sally Bartho

Shingwedzi was our next place to visit in the Kruger. Effectively we only had one full day there. On arrival, the day began to cook and the next day it was boiling – both days got up to 45 degrees C. Much of both afternoons were spent in the rather grand swimming pool under the shade of a densely leafed tree or in the water. Fortunately we had taken our loungers with us so we were quite comfortable in the shade.

The birds loved the tree as well. And many came down to the area where water gathered as it was being recirculated into the pool. Green-winged Pitylias, Firefinches, Waxbills and Weavers all came to bathe and it was possible to get close if you were in the water.

With the air-conditioning full blast it was more pleasant to be in the car than the camp. Both afternoons we drove down along the river to visit the hide. There was some water in the river and at one point we observed the carcass of a buffalo near the water’s edge – being guarded by a number of crocodiles whilst vultures hung around waiting for their chance.

The first morning we were there was spent driving around the Red Rocks Loop – the R52.

Along the way we observed an elephant resting lying down against the bank of a river.

Elephant resting on the side of the bank
Elephant resting on the side of the bank

The bird we most enjoyed seeing was the Grey-rumped Swallow

In all we observed 119 different species in the short time we were there. Here are some other photos of what we saw.

And then we were off to the rustic camp Balule near Olifants – continued in Part 7.

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 5

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Punda Maria and Pafuri 4 to 9 November

Paul And Sally Bartho

After leaving Tsendze we headed north to Punda Maria via Shingwedzi. Here we had our first bit of excitement – though not the sort which I find enjoyable.  We had just turned onto the road to Shingwedzi when we spotted a small herd of elephants with young well ahead of us. I stop immediately. You definitely don’t want to have to reverse quickly towing a trailer.

They keep crossing the road but one or two linger – the naughty young ones of course. After a while several cars passed us and we watched as they crawled passed the elephants. Getting a bit more courage I too amble forward slowly. As I start to go passed one of the youngsters decided that he would have a bit of fun at our expense and blew his little trumpet and came for us. My foot was ahead of him and well to the floor on the accelerator! We got through but not without an adrenalin rush.

On the way from Shingwedzi we bumped into an immature Bataleur on the road devouring his meal oblivious to us. Sad day for the Burchell’s Coucal.

Bataleur - juvenile. And the remains of a Burchell's Coucal.
Bataleur – juvenile. And the remains of a Burchell’s Coucal.

Then it was on to Punda Maria. Despite our five nights at Punda we were disappointed with the variety of species seen in the area – specifically at Pafuri. Klopperfontein Drift and the road to Pafuri was also quiet. However we enjoyed the Mahonie loop around the camp especially on the Sunset drive when we had one of those special moments.

We spent two mornings in the Pafuri area but found few of their specials. All of the following eluded us – not that we expected to see them all: both Spinetails; Dickinson’s Kestrel; Arnot’s Chat; Pel’s Fishing Owl; Senegal Lapwing; Grey-backed Cameroptera; Thick-billed Cuckoo; Racket-tailed Roller; Lemon-breasted Canary; Green-backed Eromomela. However we did hear a Tropical Boubou and a number of White-crowned Lapwings.

White-crowned Lapwing showing its spurs
White-crowned Lapwing showing its spurs

Definitely our worst sighting there occurred on our first visit at the turn-off towards the picnic site. Three Common Mynahs.

We did have a couple of better moments when we observed what appeared to be an acrobatic duel between two raptors. They eventually perched in the same tree. One was an adult African Hawk-Eagle – very black and white. The other was rufous. Checking our books we realised it was a juvenile of the same species.

The other bit of interest at Pafuri was in the campsite. We noticed two Red-chested Cuckoos flying around together. One was obviously a juvenile as its bib was only just starting to show. So what was this all about? Especially as juveniles are not looked after my their natural parents but by a host bird. One explanation was that the juvenile was a female and they were courting. Could there be another?

Our first sighting of a Red-backed Shrike occurred here. One of only 3 we saw in the park. The other two in Balule and Skukuza.

Red-backed Shrike
Red-backed Shrike

Some of the other sightings we had in the Pafuri area included:

We trawled the road to Pafuri for Arnot’s Chat and Dickenson’s Kestrel without luck.

In total we saw 115 different species in the Pafuri area.

Most of our time birding in the Punda Maria area occurred on the Mahonie Loop.

On our first morning as we went clockwise around the Mahonie Loop, we had another of those unexpected unwanted moments. Being charged by an adult elephant in musth.

It appeared to be minding its own business munching away some 100 metres from the road. We crawled along and before we could pass he suddenly turned and raced towards us – with intent it seemed. Flat out we raced away. After less than a kilometre our road was totally blocked by a fallen tree. The signs of the elephant were there – his doing. There was no way I was going back. After sorting out the rather thorny vegetation and shifting some large rocks we were eventually able to get round the obstruction.

Further along we had a number of pleasant raptor sightings including African Hawk-Eagles camouflaged in the trees above us as well as a tagged Cape Vulture.

Hairstyles caught our attention on these two birds: An African Paradise-Flycatcher and a Brown Snake-Eagle:

Along with a number of other birds seen on the different days on the loop and in the camp:

In the camp, near the office, we had good views of four different Robins – Bearded Scrub-Robin, White-browed Scrub-Robin, White-browed Robin-Chat and White-throated Robin-Chat

The highlight of our whole trip was the spectacle we had on the Sunset drive around the Mahonie Loop. This is something which all birders should see at least once in their lifetime. We were taken to a donga, alighted from the vehicle and told to sit quietly in the donga. Then as dusk arrived close to 18h30 four birds appeared – a female and three calling males. They flew all around us sometimes as close as three metres above our heads. On occasion they settled on the ground. What a fantastic way to see Pennant-winged Nightjars with their long streamers. I apologise to the photographic purists for the following photos but I did not have a flash. However these photos, to me, capture the mystical magic of the Pennant-winged Nightjar.

Total sightings in and around Punda Maria was 136 different species.

And then it was the start of our journey south – first to Shingwedzi. See Part 6.

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 4

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Tsendze 31 October to 4 November

Paul and Sally Bartho

Tsendze is the satellite camp to Mopani. It is situated right next to the Mooiplaas picnic area. It is a rustic camp for campers only and has no power available. There is however, a kitchen and washup area,  solar energy for lights and gas heating for hot water. As a new addition there are gas freezers available for those who need them. The camp is well treed so there is ample shade. This was our favourite camp in the Kruger and it has the friendliest and most helpful staff. The birding in the area was also pretty good.

To start with, Roger – the camp attendant – noticed that we were birders. “Come with me”, he said. Right next to our campsite he showed us one of the resident African Scops Owl. Then he took us to see the resident breeding pair of African Barred Owlets. What a start to our stay.

Late one afternoon on our way back to the camp we took one of the River Loop roads. As we approached the river, Sally yelled “Stop”. Brakes on and stop. “What is it?” “Look behind the tree on the right”.  And there it was, an animal with a head like a bull mastiff and the size of a large hyena – black and white with a long bushy tail. Neither of us had seen one before so stared at it uncomprehendingly for a long time. Eventually we got out the wildlife book and discovered it was a Civet. Unfortunately this Civet had an injured right back leg and was limping badly. It took no notice of us and continued foraging within 10 metres of us. We were so engrossed with watching this lifer for both of us that we paid little attention to anything else around us. For some unknown reason Sally happened to look round and yelled “Elephant”. It was less than 5 metres from us and approaching straight at us with determination. Somehow the car managed to reverse at an unnatural speed without hitting anything. The elephant calmly strode up to where we had been parked, reached up into the tree and snapped off a small branch. Scary or what!

There is a waterhole south of the camp – Klein Nshawu. A lion had feasted on a buffalo right next to the waterhole and left its carcass there. So we went to take a look. Hyena and jackal were present as well as quite a few Vultures including White-backed and Cape.

On one of our drives we stopped at the Tihongonyeni waterhole on the S143 Tropic of Capricorn Loop. The place was abuzz with Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks, Kittlitz’s Plovers, Magpie Shrikes unusually congregating, around six or more in one small shrub. Elephant were drinking. We hung around for a while fortunately. Suddenly the birds all took to the air. A small raptor with a ringtail appeared and landed in a tree at least 100 metres away. Out came the scope and we realised it was a Harrier – not a mature male. On closer inspection we understood that it was not a female but a juvenile – luckily, as we would never have been able to conclusively identify it. The bold black markings round the eye indicated that it was a Pallid Harrier juvenile – much as we suspected because of the flat open dry habitat.

At another waterhole – Mooiplaas on the S50 we had another what we thought was an unusual sighting of 5 friendly Collared Pratincoles foraging in the desolate landscape.

We encountered numerous elephants in the area but one stood out. It had only one very long tusk.

Elephant - one tusker
Elephant – one tusker

Yellow-billed Oxpeckers appeared on many of the Buffalo that we saw. Not so long ago you had to go right up to the Pafuri area to try and see one.

One day we took a drive on the Tsendze loop to the south of the camp. A pleasant drive following the river. At one of the many small loops to the river we noticed a pair of unusual birds skulking near the reeds but coming out into the open now and then. Out with the scope to confirm what we thought. Our second sighting of 2 Greater Painted Snipes.

The next day we took a walk around the Mopani camp trail in front of their restaurant – a short but pleasant trail along the banks of Mopani’s Pioneer Dam. At the end of the inlet of water we came across another 2 Greater Painted Snipes – our third sighting of them. So far all males.

Next to the camp is Mooiplaas Picnic site. It has a lovely thatched picnic spot overlooking the river. It was here that we heard then found an African Cuckoo and a Black Cuckooshrike.

Both the Pioneer Hide and the Shipandani Hides are worth a visit and the river crossing before the latter always seemed to yield an interesting variety of birds in the reeds, on the water’s edge and on the causeway itself. There is also the wetland area along the S50.

And the main road, the H14 to Phalaborwa had a number of interesting minor loop roads along the river’s edge – a pretty drive.

In all this is one of our favourite areas in the park as it has a wide variety of habitats.

Here are pictures of some of the other species we saw in and around the area.

In total we observed 143 different bird species in and around Tsendze.

Our next camp for five nights was Punda Maria from which we spent a couple of mornings in Pafuri. See Part 5.

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 3

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Satara 26 to 30 October 

Paul & Sally Bartho

Leaving Crocodile Bridge we drove to Lower Sabie, crossed the Sabie River and headed for Satara via Tshokwane arriving early afternoon.

Stopping for tea at Tshokwane we noticed this unusually dark African Mourning Dove.

African Mourning Dove - dark form
African Mourning Dove

After setting up camp we had a message on Trevor Hardaker’s Rare Birds report that a Green Sandpiper had been seen at the Sweni bridge just south of the camp. We went to have a look and it did not take us long to find it. This would have been a lifer for me had I not seen one a month earlier at Darvil sewerage works in Pietermaritzberg.

The following day we drove along the S100 to the Sweni Bird Hide near the N’wanetsi picnic site. Along the way we came across what we thought was a pair of Red-necked Spurfowls – however on advise from Trevor Hardaker they are in fact hybrids – Red-necked and Swainson’s. As there were two together, we hope that they are both of the same sex!

The Sweni Hide was one of the highlights of our trip. We were entertained there for hours not only by the crocodiles and hippos camouflaged by the weed but also by the variety of birds which visited the hide – including a pair of what we think might be Dwarf Bitterns (possible Green-backed Heron juvenile but for the heavy black streaking on the front – unfortunately not shown well in the photos) and several Black-crowned Night Herons.

Hippos resting in peace
Hippos in repose

The following morning we set off really early to get to the Sweni Hide as we had enjoyed it so much the day before. On the way as we crossed a bridge and looked down we saw 2 elephants digging for water. There was a pool nearby but it was obviously not to their taste. What was interesting was that the hole they dug with their trunks was perfectly round and several feet deep. The elephants knew the water was there and that the sand would filter the water for them.

Elephants searching for water
Elephants searching for water

 As we reached the hide we first went to the river crossing and looked back up to the hide. What a good decision. In the closest part of the river Sally noticed an unusual bird – the first of four different sightings of this bird.

Some of the other birds and animals we managed to photograph in the area include:

Altogether we found 140 different bird species in and around Satara.

Next we moved on to Tsendze – the satellite camp to Mopani. It is situated next to the Mooiplaas picnic area. See Part 4 of this series.

 

Zululand and the Kruger – Part 2

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Crocodile Bridge 23 to 26 October

Paul & Sally Bartho

Three days were spent in the area around Crocodile Bridge. The weather was very overcast with rain in the evenings. The vegetation was dry so visibility into the park was good. Now all we had to do was find the birds.

The first day was spent on the S28 from Croc Bridge to Lower Sabie via the Ntandanyahti Hide. The hide was productive but few birds were seen on the S28. On exit from the hide a rather large elephant stood guard over our car. Appropriate action was taken and we returned to the hide until it was safe to leave. Not long as it happened.

A visit to Sunset Dam and then to Mlondozi Dam (looking for the reported Collared flycatcher – no luck) were also productive.

The second day we took the S25 and S26 to Mpondo Dam – again very quiet along the way. However on a detour off the S25 to Hippo Pool we were fortunate to see 3 Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls together. They flew over the road and stopped in nearby trees.

Mpondo Dam was disappointing. Onward we went back along the S26 to the S114 turned south to the  then S119 and S25 returning to the camp. Along the S114 Sally called for me to stop. She had heard a Coqui Francolin – her bogie bird. It called several times but we never had a sighting.

Despite what appeared to be a paucity of birds we did manage to record 144 different species during our time there.

Satara was our next venue for 4 nights.  See Part 3